# Need help, just got a remington 700 P in 300 win mag.



## msmforever69 (Jun 3, 2008)

Ok, so I just spent 900 just for the rifle. I wanted a sniper rifle like set up. Still have to get scope and bipod. It is a Remington 700 police chambered in 300 win mag. This is my 2nd bolt action gun, the first was a savage in 22 LR, so it's a big jump.

I am kind of disappointed with the fit and finish and feel of the gun. My 200 dollar savage seems to be better made. This one came in brand new from the factory, and it had so much dirt on it. It wasn't even packaged well, as you can see in the pictures below. The stock has some blemishes on it, whereas my 200 dollar savage rimfire was flawless. Anyone know why this is? And why the stock and action had dirt on it even if it's brand new?

Also, this is probably not a smart idea, but I wanted to see the loading so I chambered a 300 win mag round at home. With my savage you just pull the bolt back and it ejects the bullet out, but this one i pulled it back and the bolt came back but the bullet didn't come out, it stayed in the chamber. That was kind of scary cuz the 300 win mag bullet was still in the chamber and I'm kind of new to high power rifles, so i took the bolt out and had to knock the bullet out of the chamber using a rod. Why doesn't the bolt grab the cartridge and eject it?? Do you have to fire it first in order for it to do that?? I don't have to fire first in my savage, it just ejects it without even firing. There is like a claw thing that grabs the rim, in this bolt there isn't as you can see in the pics.

Here are some pictures of exactly how it came. Can't believe this is a 1000 dollar gun. I spent way too much student loan money on this, cuz it looked really good in pics argh. Well enough of my rant.

My questions are basically why doesn't it eject the bullet when you pull the bolt back? I even tried closing the bolt all the way in and pushing it forward multiple times, still doesn't pull the bullet back to eject it. And why did it come in crappy condition? this is a BRAND NEW gun straight from factory, never been fired. Any comments or advice will be appreciated, specially about that bolt not grabbing the cartridge thing.

Check out these pics to get a better idea of the gun, see them all to notice the blemishes i was talking about.

Edit: I took out the pics because teh picture hosting site is messed up. But i do have some pics of the brass before and after chambering, notice how it gets scratched up.

Before.

http://s2.screenshots.cc/upload/7dfd0dd3.jpg

http://s2.screenshots.cc/upload/2c828835.jpg

After

http://s2.screenshots.cc/upload/1ca1f3c3.jpg

http://s2.screenshots.cc/upload/64e1099e.jpg

http://s2.screenshots.cc/upload/64e1099e.jpg


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## STexhunter (Sep 11, 2007)

First thing I would do is get hold of Remington (if thats where it came from) and tell them the problems with your rifle. Explain that this is unacceptable, and send it back. To answer you question about recoil etc. you sure took a big jump from 22lr to 300 mag. Shooting high powered rifles is all together a different ball game than your 22. Recoil is dependent on stock fit etc., etc. I've shot a few 300's and yes some recoil pretty good. You need to learn proper shooting techniques and hold it firm to your shoulder. Jumping to that large a caliber from your 22 can cause you to develop some bad habits, including a bad flinch not to mention getting cut over your eye from the scope if you don't hold on to it. Other than that the 300 is a fine and accurate round. Call Remingtion or where you got the rifle from first thing. Also you might know someone that has a smaller caliber that you can shoot to get used to recoil etc.


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## msmforever69 (Jun 3, 2008)

Thanks man, I have some experience with .308. The reason I didn't get the .308 in this is because I plan on getting a saiga .308 autoloading in a bit. I will take your advice and contact them.


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## Savage260 (Oct 21, 2007)

I would definately be upset about the condition of the rifle, and rem will most likely make it right. Just out of curiosity though, why does some one with almost no experience shooting high powered rifles need a "sniper rifle like setup"? Starting a contract business? At least going with the heavier rifle will help with the recoil a bit. Good luck!


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## msmforever69 (Jun 3, 2008)

haha just cuz they look so cool.


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## mrb (Aug 22, 2007)

well let me say, you could have paid less!
next you just dropped a grand on a rifle you are not happy with the finish, did you look at it before you bought it, as that is when you should have said no i don't want it, as now, remington will blame you for the damage, next are you sure the dealer didn't do the damage, and have the gun sitting around a long time, and that it is new and not used
as for why the bullet would not come out of the barrel, that sounds like a major priblem with a new gun, it should, and you should also never be loading a rifle for fun!!! very dangerous, and stupid!! next I hope you used a coated rod to remove the bullet from the rifle, or you could have damage the rifle for its potential! you may have some packing stuck under the extractor preventing it from grabing the bullet, next, did you clean the rifle, bore before you tried loading it?? as there might have been something in the chamber preventing it from seating properly! and thus could have damaged the chamber in the process, I have several, and have sold thousands of remington rifles, and never had any with loading extraction problems!! READ YOUR MANUAL!!! get help from a qualified person, as for recoil, lighter bullets will kick less, but the rifle is pretty heavy so you should be able to manage, plus adding a good tactial scope will add even more weight too! you steped up to a great gun, but not knowing what you are doing can ruin it very quickly, and then you have waisted even more money!! get help from someone in your area that has experience, not someone that thinks he does!! and for god's sake stop loading your rifles for fun!!! they ain't toys you know, had you have gotten this rifle in .308 you would have been better off too, as this way you would then have two( future buy) that shoot the same ammo, and less likely hood of you trying to mix them up!!!KEEP IT SIMPLE, as you are new, and have tons to learn, there are several good books videos out there on remington 700 rifles, buy one!!!! and read/watch, it can save you alot !!!


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

msmforever69,

I think they all come with dirt and crap on them, When I got my 700P in 308 it was basically the same. But I will tell you that after you clean them up and do some group tests they shoot very well. I would do a couple of things first though, adjust the trigger and add some weight to the stock, the directions for adding weight will be attached to the bottom, It makes a heck of a difference.

If you aren't satisfied then send it back, I probably would because of the bolt issues, and get a 308 instead. The cost per round will save you a bunch of money if you shoot much at all.

About the finish of the stick, there is always paint. It's easy to do yourself in an afternoon and changes the character of the weapon.

Just my 2 cents
Xdeano

Adding Weight to the Remington 700P.
If you have a chest type freezer, it's best to stick the stock in over night. I take a small thin putty knife or chisel, and using a rubber hammer, I line the blade up between the stock and the plastic spacer. Then I tap the knife with the rubber hammer. I work in small amounts, keeping it straight, and it will pop right off.

By freezing it, the epoxy becomes hard and will break away clean.

After you get the butt plate off, you want to get some #7 1/2 lead shot. Pour the shot in the hole in the stock. Until it's level. Then pure the shot into a old plastic cup. I use the bottom of a 2 liter pepsi bottle. I cut the bottom out.

I get some two part epoxy, from the hardware store, the kind that works on plastics. It will have two tubes, like a syringe. I put the epoxy in the lead shot "but leave just a little for the butt plate."

I take a popsicle stick and mix the lead and epoxy. It will set up in five minutes so work fast and get it in the stock. Pack it down into the stock and make sure it's level with the top. At that point take the epoxy left over and put it on the butt plate. Hold the butt plate in place for about five minutes.

I take a piece of twine and tie it around the butt plate and trigger guard holes. Leave it for about 20 minutes and it's good to go.

Place the barreled action back into the stock and torque it down to 65 inch pounds and your good to go.


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

Paint adds a lot to the appearance of the stick.
xdeano


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## johngfoster (Oct 21, 2007)

Nice camo job, xdeano. I'm in the process of getting a .308 built for me. Rem 700 action, McMillan A5 stock, Badger bottom metal/DBM and scope base/rings, Leupy Mk4 scope for now, but may upgrade in the future as funds allow. Can't wait for it to get finnished   

MSM: I'd send that rifle back if you haven't already. Any Remington that I've seen should extract the bullet or shell, fired or unfired after closing the bolt. If not, then something is wrong and needs to be looked at. And those scratches on your brass are probably from some crud in your chamber.

I've never shot a 300WM, but I hear they are very accurate--and also kick like a mule! :x However it has the potential to grow into. But it may be a very steep learning curve. I too would recommend trading it out for a model 700P in .308win instead. Much cheaper to shoot. Heck, if cost is an issue, then get one in .223/5.56 with a 1:8 or 1:7 twist barrel. Recoil will be much more managable and your shooting skills will improve much quicker. With the tighter twist barrel you can shoot the heavier bullets like the 75gr AMAX and 80gr SMK. With these you can get out to 600yd easy, possibly even further. There aren't as many ranges around where you can shoot that far, depending of course where you live. If you are just starting out in precision long-range shooting, you will probably want to start at closer distances like 100 to 300yds and then gradually work out from there. 300WM is a bit overkill at 100yds for a less experienced shooter.

Another topic you haven't addressed yet is scope choice. Any thoughts on this? Many folks spend more money on their scope than they do on their rifle. Quality glass is important, especially for LR precision shooting. I would probably start looking at a Leupold Mark 4 scope and go up from there--Night Force, USO, Schmidt & Bender, just to name a few. Caution: expensive glass, but you won't be sorry. Getting an expensive rifle like that and putting a cheap scope on it would be like getting a Corvette and putting cheap/budget tires on it. It just doesn't make sense.

BTW, what kind of shooting do you intend to do with this rifle? What kind of distances? Do you have a place to shoot it at these distances? "Sniper Rifle-like setups" come in various calibers, each intended for a different type of job/distance/situation. This should be the first question answered before deciding on a caliber, otherwise you run the risk of just waisting your money/student loans in your case.

Good luck with your quest, and keep us updated.

John


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## msmforever69 (Jun 3, 2008)

johngfoster, haven't shot it yet. Wanted to make sure everything is ok before I invest in bases and a scope. So i took it to the gunsmith at the dealer where I got it from, that dealership I feel like is ripping me off all the time. I showed the brass to the gunsmith, he said he will take it home and look at it and figure out what's wrong. Oh and that will be 100 dollars. Also i wanted a badger tactical knob, they would charge a 100 for it.

Next I sold them my savage Mark II FV, and they gave me 70 dollars for it...it has a bipod, and a 60 dollar scope and the gun itself was 250. So i spent like 350, and 3 months later, got 70 for it... basically using that 70 just for them to check the gun out.

So to get a stock 700 P and to have it fixed, I spent 950 for gun, then 40 for a box of 20 rounds, then 100 for them to "fix" a brand new gun which completely isn't my fault, and another 100 to put a bolt on, and I had to give my savage 22 away.

The only reason I got a 300 wm is because I have .308 bolt actions already, and wanted something different.

How much is your .308 gonna cost all together when it is built? There was one selling for 3100 at the dealer, had leupold mark 4 scope, bipod, and some work done on the rifle.

I plan on starting shooting at 200 yrds, and eventually seeing if i can do 1000 yds. So i need a scope with a large range, that allows for 100yd to 1000 yd shooting.


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## johngfoster (Oct 21, 2007)

Depending on what the rifle is, $3100 sounds ballpark. Mine is costing a little bit less, minus scope. If you are going to be shooting out to 1k yd, then don't skimp on glass.

I think GA Precicion charges $95 to install a tactical knob. They are a very well-respected custom rifle shop in Kansas City, MO. There are a number of other very well-respected gunsmiths around as well. Your local guy's price of $100 sounds ball-park to me

Also, if they sold you the gun, then they should look at it for free or send it back to Remington at least for not more than the postage. Or you could send it back to remington yourself. Now if the gunsmith is going to be doing some extra to "accurise" it some more, then I would expect to pay for that, but to fix a factory problem, the store should just send it back or swap it out for a new one at no charge.

I recently bought a Rem 700 22-250. When it came in, it had a ding on the muzzel that I only picked up after I got it home. I took it back to the shop and showed the owner. They sent it back to their supplier who shipped out a new one for me. It was a straight-up trade at no extra cost to me. Of course I had to wait the extra week before I could go shooting with it, but it didn't cost me any extra money.

Good luck.


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## Mike75 (Jan 25, 2009)

Hi guys, look at this, that´s another hunting 



 :sniper: :sniper:


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