# Preventing call freeze up



## quackattack (Sep 27, 2003)

Anyone have any good tips or things you can do to stop your call from sticking..."freezing" Nothing worse than havin greenheads flyin by and havin your call stick..

:beer:


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## Field Hunter (Mar 4, 2002)

soak it in anti-freeze. Just kidding....I rarely hunt that long into the season but I'd think keeping it in a zip lock with a couple of those disposable hand warmers might work a little.


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## win4win (Sep 8, 2003)

Ive heard you can apply a little Rain-X to your insert. Havent tried it myself.


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## mallardhunter (May 15, 2004)

I should try that with my snow goose call because that sicks after 5 min of use.


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## Matt Jones (Mar 6, 2002)

There's nothing you can do...a duck call will always stick. The rainX thing doesn't work either, mylar is already impervious to water so what is applying rainX going to do when the problem is the water(spit) sticking the reed to the toneboard?

I keep two duck calls on my lanyard partially for this reason. If one sticks I can go to the other. Otherwise "Flip" your reed between flocks and it will be fine.


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## Waterfowlerguy (Mar 4, 2004)

Just spoke with someone at Foiles calls the other day and they recommended rubing a dollar bill between the reed(s) and tone board to dry it out. Haven't tried it yet. We will see.


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## Sasha and Abby (May 11, 2004)

Don't spit in your call... :wink:


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## SermieIN (Sep 14, 2004)

I used to have this trouble a lot with my duck call. I still do have trouble sometimes but I have resolved the problem.

I heard of the Rain-X thing once, but I have not tried it. Instead, someone told me to use Chapstick and IT WORKS. Plus, you can easily carry Chapstick with you and fix the call when you have a problem.

Remove the mylar reed from the call and place a thin layer of Chapstick on the reed. You will need to rub it around and keep it very thin. If it is too thick, it will change the tone of your call a little.

I know the reed itself is waterproof, but the sticking occurs because the reed and the call body hold water between them. If you look at the length of the water line when the call is sticking you will see it is much longer than the length of the water line when you first start calling. The Chapstick helps shed the water buildup between the call body and the reed.

This is a common problem for me with my call and it does not have to actually freeze for the reed to stick. I usually have to apply a little Chapstick about every 3 or 4 full day hunts. It is simple to do while hunting and it works.


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## Madison (Mar 1, 2002)

When the birds aren't flying, I tuck my calls back inside my jacket to keep the reed from freezing, works great.. Haven't had a problem yet.


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## zx2dxz (Aug 20, 2004)

i do the same tuck it in my coat the only thing that i do different is that i put one of those hand warmers in that pocket so its like an oven in there and whip those bad boys out and start calling away!

If it flys it dies, after i id it 

lata, 2d


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## duckbuster808 (Apr 27, 2004)

Matt Jones said:


> There's nothing you can do...a duck call will always stick.
> 
> Thats where you go wrong. My cousin hunts almost every day of the season. He told me to use a dremmel tool an cut a thin line from the groove in the tone board to the where it becomes solid again. it doesnt have to be long or thick it can be about an 8th of an inch long. this will cause air to get up under the reed. dont know how it stops it from freezing but it does.


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## djleye (Nov 14, 2002)

Once I told Monte to stick his call up his a.........oh yea, that was another call problem!!!!!!! :lol: :lol:


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## Matt Fiala (Nov 8, 2004)

Get a big Guy's Best, all his new calls , well the acrylic anyway have built in spit grooves, haven't had mine stick once, i mean ever. Had a foiles SMM stuck all the time. try the big guy's


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## octnov (Aug 21, 2004)

Never tried this but a friend says to rub a very small amount of olive oil on the reed, let it set for a minute or two and wipe off. He claims it never freezes up, but I think he has a thing for olive oil.
Sid


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