# Model 70 bedding question



## bustaduck (Feb 12, 2007)

I posted some questions about my Model 70 a few weeks ago and got some pretty good help. So now I have another.

If you remember from our previous episode, I have a model 70 300 win mag in stainless with the synthetic stock. I have been having some grouping issues. Sometimes it shoots good and sometimes it doesn't. And the point of impact of the groups seems to change even when I haven't changed the scope.

So after the last trip to the range, I decided take it apart and see what was going on in the stock. The first thing that I noticed when I got it apart was that there was a big glob of goo around the area where the front of the receiver locks into the stock. The goo was dry and cracked and pretty much fell apart when I removed the receiver.

I tried to put it back when I put everything back together and I could tell that things wern't right because when I tightened everything down, the bolt did not operate as smoothly as normal. It was like it was in a bind. So I took the goo out completely and that made it worse. It seemed that the without the glob of goo, the bolt would bind badly no matter what I did.

I ended up putting part of the goo back that was still in good shape and then using a thin piece of plastic in the place of the part that was cracked. The bolt works nicely now, but needless to say, this doesn't seem to be the best situation. The big glob of goo is under the front of the reciever where there is a bar in front of the first screw that goes into a groove into the stock. The thin piec of plastic went around the front screw between the stock and the bottom of the reciever where the screw goes in.

I guess my questions are

1. What is the goo there for in the first place?
2. If what I have now is stable, should I be OK for a while?
3. Should I scrap the whole stock and get a new one with the full aluminum bedding block or get my current stock glass bedded? Which is better for accuracy?

Thanks in advance.


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## Horsager (Aug 31, 2006)

You are dealing with Winchester's factory "Thermoplastic bedding compound", what the rest of the world sees pretty much as "Hot Glue". Just have someone who's capable give your stock a treatment with a little accra-glass (or any one of the many glass bedding compounds). If you decide to go with an aftermarket stock my preference is McMillan (I have 3 currently, two on SS classic Winchesters, and have had a couple others). I've also tried HS precision, and Bell and Carlson's, they all worked, I like the feel of the McMillans better. The original stuff cracking and breaking out is not uncommon, you didn't do anything wrong. If you buy a new aftermarket stock you'll likely have to have it bedded to your rifle anyway.

Either list here or PM me with any questions, I also shoot a Win 70 Classic SS in 300 Win, as does my father (also with a McMillan stock) and at least 2 good friends off the top of my head. In fact I'm buying another one this week as a backup since they aren't produced anymore and I really like them. The offer is still open to buy yours as well, PM me with a price if you're interrested.


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## bustaduck (Feb 12, 2007)

Hey Horsager,
Thanks for all of the info. (again) I may try one of the aftermarket stocks and see what that does.

I think that I am going to hold onto the gun for a while. I will let you know if I ever decide to get rid of it though.


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## clampdaddy (Aug 9, 2006)

The middle action screw is probably what caused your action to bind up. If that gob of glue or the shim between the stock and bottom metal is missing that screw will run all the way into the locking lug recess of the reciever and do a damn fine job of locking up the action or makeing it imposible to close. Even if it's just in far enough to put pressure on the bottom lug it can cause accuracy problems. For a cheap fix I'd try shimming the action up in the stock with some thin card papper and see if that helps.


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## bustaduck (Feb 12, 2007)

that sounds like the exact problem come to think about it. I did notice that with the shim out, if I tightened the middle screw at all, the bolt would bind. With the current shim in, I can tighten it and the bolt is still smooth as ever.

How tight should I tighten the three screws? I think that someone told me that the middle screw shouldn't be too tight.


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## clampdaddy (Aug 9, 2006)

I don't have a torque measurement to give you but this works for me. First tighten the front screw GOOD AND TIGHT, then do the rear one PRETTY TIGHT, then do the middle one KINDA TIGHT.


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## Horsager (Aug 31, 2006)

Don't quote me but I believe the front and rear screw are something on the order of 65 in/lbs. The middle screw should only be snug enough that it doesn't back itself out, just a bit tighter than you can make it with a fingernail.


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## bustaduck (Feb 12, 2007)

Thanks again guys. I have the front and back fairly tight now and the middle one so so tight as you mentioned. I ended up doing that by trial and error mostly.

I noticed while hunting one day this year that the back screw was completly loose. I had never even checked it, but after all of the years of shooting and bouncing around in the truck, I guess it finally backed out and got loose on me.

I will get this gun back to tack driver quality by the time I am done with it. Or somewhere down the road, I'll just give up and sell it to Horsager. I haven't given up though.


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