# Relative noob question about fixed blades



## omegax (Oct 25, 2006)

How different is the POI from field points or the Rages I've been using? I see there are reviews of the Slick Trick Magnums saying they fly just like field points. Basically, the only reason I bought the Rages was because I didn't know if I was up to tuning for fixed blades. However, if that's true, I would REALLY enjoy being able to leave the screens closed on my blind!


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## Trapper99 (May 18, 2008)

I love fixed blades, and I think if you switch you will too. Mechanical are more bound to "screw up" with the big one in your sights. Using fixed, for me, hasn't been much of an ordeal. I just take one broadhead and, with a sharpie mark "P" on it, which stands for practice. I put in on one of my arrows, and shoot it in a group with some practice tips. And then from there you can see how off, or on they are according to your practice tips. Then you can just adjust your sights, to match the broadheads. Thats what I do. Anybody else have any ideas?


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## Chuck Smith (Feb 22, 2005)

I use the slick tricks and they fly just like field points!


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## AdamFisk (Jan 30, 2005)

Every bow will, more times than not, shoot every head different. If your bow is not set up or tuned properly, you'll have some work ahead of you, regardless of what head you buy. I bought G5 Strykers and never had to tune a thing, at least out to 40. Everybody will tell you a different story. For example, my brother used to shoot Slick Tricks and had a hell of a time tuning them to FP's. And they whistle to beat hell. IMO, because of that experience, I'd never buy them.

Find a head that you'll be happy with and either get a buddy to help, or do some research on broadhead/walk back tuning. It's not that hard to do. Better than shooting mechanicals the rest of your life..... :lol:

Good Luck!


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## omegax (Oct 25, 2006)

I had been meaning to pick up some of those G5 small game heads, after seeing one in action last weekend. I think I'll just pick up some fixed blades (sort of leaning toward the Slick Tricks) at the same time. If they're dead on or very close to, I'm in luck. I'm not sure how much work I'm going to have time to putting into getting them to group with the field points, but I don't have to use them this year. It's not like they're going to spoil. I've still got the Rages. I always viewed them as a bridge to get me through this season, anyhow.


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## ImpalaSSpeed96 (Aug 25, 2008)

You really shouldn't have to move your sights for a broadhead if your bow is tuned properly. If everything is jivin right on your bow, 90% of broadheads will fly like your field points.


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## djleye (Nov 14, 2002)

Chuck Smith said:


> I use the slick tricks and they fly just like field points!


x 2


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## CoteauViewKiller (Sep 15, 2009)

I used to shoot a Renegade Alpha 1 and the fixed blade broadheads flew identical to field points and it's IBO was 280, however now I shoot a Mathews Reezen and it's a lot faster and muzzy fixed blades are plaining out due to the higher speed. I guess what I'm trying to say is that with today's faster bows, fixed blade broadhead makers have to go back to the drawing board to compliment the high IBO bows that we are using today. Moving your sight for an arrow that is plaining out is not a good idea IMO. Just practicing with one arrow tipped with a fixed blade gets real old and not to mention the dramatically increased damage to your target. I use spitfire expandables and they have never failed me..........well not yet anyways. (knock on wood) 
Good Luck everybody! Pre-rut is right around the corner!


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## barebackjack (Sep 5, 2006)

CoteauViewKiller said:


> I used to shoot a Renegade Alpha 1 and the fixed blade broadheads flew identical to field points and it's IBO was 280, however now I shoot a Mathews Reezen and it's a lot faster and muzzy fixed blades are plaining out due to the higher speed. I guess what I'm trying to say is that with today's faster bows, fixed blade broadhead makers have to go back to the drawing board to compliment the high IBO bows that we are using today. Moving your sight for an arrow that is plaining out is not a good idea IMO. Just practicing with one arrow tipped with a fixed blade gets real old and not to mention the dramatically increased damage to your target. I use spitfire expandables and they have never failed me..........well not yet anyways. (knock on wood)
> Good Luck everybody! Pre-rut is right around the corner!


You are correct that todays high speed bows are tougher to tune with fixed blades. But not impossible in the least.

With these bows, paper tuning often isnt enough to ensure your centershot and such is dead on. This is where bare shaft tuning, and walkback tuning come into play. Paper tuning gets you close, bare shaft and walkback get you dead on the nuts.

If your tuned "dead on", and considering your arrow is spined correctly (VERY important) for your setup, and your head of choice is spin tested and true to the insert and shaft, you shouldnt have any problems with fixed blades even at blistering speeds. (I broadhead tuned a 340 fps Monster for a guy this summer for fixed blades with no problems, just took a little longer).

Mechanicals are a crutch for those that either dont know (and dont want to learn) how to properly tune a bow, and those that are to lazy to do so. Mechanicals "hide" tuning issues, they dont fix them.


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## CoteauViewKiller (Sep 15, 2009)

Mechanicals are a crutch?  I think there are going to be plenty of hunters out there that shoot mechanical broadheads that completely disagree with that comment. I'm not bashing one or the other, I've shot both.... and I'm saying that I like mechanical broadheads.


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## barebackjack (Sep 5, 2006)

CoteauViewKiller said:


> Mechanicals are a crutch?  I think there are going to be plenty of hunters out there that shoot mechanical broadheads that completely disagree with that comment. I'm not bashing one or the other, I've shot both.... and I'm saying that I like mechanical broadheads.


Yes.

Why do most buy them? They cant get fixed blades to group with their field points and on top of it, most guys dont know jack about tuning a bow beyond fiddling with their sight (which isnt tuning at all).

If a fixed blade isnt flying well, you have a deeper issue. Most guys believe once their punching "bullet holes" in paper, their bow is tuned (and many dont even do this, if they can shoot a group at 20 yards, their "tuned"). Not so. Just because a bow can shoot a group, does NOT mean its tuned. Once your bow is grouping broadheads and field points to the same POI WITHOUT moving your sight, than your bow is perfectly tuned. Fixed blades show tuning/form flaws much more than field points and mechanicals.

Because the nature of the mechanical head is to fly more like a field point, it hides many many "issues". These "issues" can include anything and everything from a bow out of spec, a rest improperly setup, nock point issues, improper arrow shaft selection, and even form issues, or a combination of several of these.

Their a "cover up", not a "fix".

Now if a guy was really serious about them, he would tune with a fixed blade to ensure his setup is tuned to the highest degree that can be achieved, THAN shoot the mechanicals knowing now that his/her bow is perfectly tuned.

And than, on top of all this, theres always the chance, albeit slim, that theyll fail. Blades will deploy prematurely, or not at all. Blades will break. And from what ive seen of them, penetration almost always suffers when any bone is contacted.


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## Longshot (Feb 9, 2004)

Right on the money barebackjack! I have tried a few of the mechanicals and have not liked a one of them, with the Rage being the biggest joke of all. The Rage is terrible for opening up in flight.


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## bretts (Feb 24, 2004)

barebackjack said:


> CoteauViewKiller said:
> 
> 
> > Mechanicals are a crutch?  I think there are going to be plenty of hunters out there that shoot mechanical broadheads that completely disagree with that comment. I'm not bashing one or the other, I've shot both.... and I'm saying that I like mechanical broadheads.
> ...


x2 that is 100% right on


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## omegax (Oct 25, 2006)

I'll freely admit that I bought the Rages as a crutch. I just got ticked with them opening up any time I'd put it in or take it out of my quiver. Although, I'm told I putting a little rubber band around them helps.

I did buy some slick tricks. I got fairly lucky. They shoot a couple of inches higher than my field points, but they're dead on horizontally. I bumped my sight up, since I don't know what I'm doing yet.

From my understanding, I should just have to get my D-loop moved up a hair, but I'm not going to mess with it until next spring.


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## Trapper99 (May 18, 2008)

omegax said:


> From my understanding, I should just have to get my D-loop moved up a hair,


I'm by no means an expert, just a little curious, but if you moved your d-loop up. Wouldn't that move your point of impact up? Would it not tilt the front of your bow up, because in a way you are lowering your anchor point. if you move your loop up, then it moves the nocking point down which moves the back of the arrow down and tetor totors to make the front aim more upwards. Right? or do I have it all backwards?


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## omegax (Oct 25, 2006)

Nice catch! I was thinking "Move the loop up to get the back of the arrow up". I wasn't thinking about what angle the bow would be at. I had it wrong! I need to move my loop DOWN just a hair. Now that I think about the angle of the bow, it makes sense.

Told ya I was a noob!


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## barebackjack (Sep 5, 2006)

Omega.

You are correct. If broadheads are impacting high, you can correct with either moving your nock point up, or moving your rest down. Changing your nock position on the string will not alter your anchor as long as you dont move your peep sight.

The most likely reason for the high hit, is your arrow is pointing "up" while at full draw. This causes the blades of the broadhead to plane off and "steer" your arrow, in this case, up. Likewise, if you were hitting to the left, it would be because your arrow is point "left" while at full draw.

This is why micro tuning is important. Its hard for the vanes to overcome the "steering force" of the broadhead blades from an arrow that is coming out of the bow at a goofy angle. This is especially true of the shorter vanes or straight fletched vanes.

Remember, protuberances (or fletching) at the rear of the arrow stabilize. Protuberances (or fixed blades) at the front of an arrow, steer.

I recommend moving the rest DOWN a 1/16" or so until the broadheads are grouped with field points. Its easier to move the rest than a nock point, considering your vanes will still clear the bow shelf.


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## barebackjack (Sep 5, 2006)

Ill also add that it is important to spin test each broadhead/shaft.

Screw a head on, and with the tip resting on a hard surface and holding the nock end, spin the arrow. If you see or feel any wobble (youll notice it where the broadhead and shaft meet) you will NOT get good flight.

If it wobbles, try it on another shaft until you get one that spins nice and cleanly.


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## Turner (Oct 7, 2005)

fixed blades all the way. Tune your bow and practice and practice some more. You owe the animal that much. shoot with in your range and keep your broadheads sharp.


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