# 30-06 needs reaming?



## arctic plainsman (Aug 21, 2005)

I'd sure appreciate some opinions on this one.

I own a Rem 700 left hand 30-06. The rifle has always been a little stiff chambering live rounds. I have thought for a while that this is a squaring problem, and figgered I just needed to send it off to the 'smith to be squared. Well I was talking to my neighbor today and he thought (after chambering live rounds and examining the cartridges,) that the shoulder in the chamber needed to be reamed 1-4 thousands. He's got a hand reamer that he'd be happy to use on my rifle.

I do not believe this is a reloading issue. I have both full length re sized and neck only. I have also noticed stiffness when chambering factory ammo.

I only own one 30-06, so the reloaded ammo isn't being fire formed in another chamber and then used in the problem gun. I hope I describe this right, the brass shows some polishing at the base of the shoulder, and at the case head, as if these points were pressure points when cycling the action.

My friend just called and said he just brought in two bears. I gotta go, what do you think this problem is?


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## bighands (Dec 12, 2005)

Your neighbor may know what he is talking about, But you probably better check it with headspace gauges and do a chamber casting and examine it before letting anyone stick a reamer in it. That's just my opinion.


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## steve66 (Apr 14, 2006)

have you tried factory ammo in it? does it work all right? have you had this rifle for a while? or is it new?


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## arctic plainsman (Aug 21, 2005)

I have cycled and shot factory ammo out of the rifle with much the same results. The rifle is quite accurate, which has made me wonder about the squaring idea.

I don't have any experience with headspace guages, or making a chamber cast, so can you point me in the right direction with what to buy or how to go about it Longshot? I've got a midway catalog, and of course I can buy over the internet.


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## Plainsman (Jul 30, 2003)

I don't think squaring is the problem, especially if the rifle is accurate. Your friend may be correct, but use a finishing reamer only. You will also need go no go gauges. Take only .001 out at a time, because a tight chamber is not only more accurate it will let you reload your brass many more times than a chamber with .005 which is maximum SAMI spec.


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## arctic plainsman (Aug 21, 2005)

Ok, thanks guys, I'll give it a try. I guess I'm not to afraid to goof it up since it can be re barreled.
Lets see, 1st of May, I need this rifle the first of August for sheep hunting, sure, why not, I'll screw with it!
Brilliant, just brilliant.


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## People (Jan 17, 2005)

I just thought of this. When a company makes a gun they have Minimums and Maximums that the chaimber can be. Your gun is a min. As you said that it shoots great. Have you ever concidered cutting your necks?

Many times when people get a gun made they have a match chamber cut. This meens that every thing is at the minimum.

I have a forster hand held neck turner and it does help with the tension and room the cassing has in the chamber. You may want to try that before doing any thing with your gun.

This may help also.
http://www.varmintal.com/arelo.htm#Neck_Turning
That is a good site to look around on it has lots of good info.

Filming on location for Walker: Texas Ranger, Chuck Norris brought a stillborn baby lamb back to life by giving it a prolonged beard rub. Shortly after the farm animal sprang back to life and a crowd had gathered, Chuck Norris roundhouse kicked the animal, breaking its neck, to remind the crew once more that Chuck giveth, and the good Chuck, he taketh away.


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## bighands (Dec 12, 2005)

> Ok, thanks guys, I'll give it a try. I guess I'm not to afraid to goof it up since it can be re barreled.


Heck Yah, That could be a great excuse to get the barrel you always wanted! Sounds like something I might do, My wife is starting to get wise though and I'm going to have to start getting more creative.


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## arctic plainsman (Aug 21, 2005)

People,
I've been trimming my case necks when needed. That and the fact that I've tried full length resizing and neck only is what was running me out of ideas. I figgered I was good on the overall case length, good on case size, they've been fire formed to my chamber, I thought it was a little odd.

I'm inclined to follow Plainsmans advise and use the finish reamer to remove 1 one thousand at a time.

A thought just occured to me, why is the shoulder on the case not set back when I full length re size? Anybody got an idea? Seems like full length re sizing should set the shoulder back!


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## People (Jan 17, 2005)

I was not thinking about trimming the cassings I was refering to neck turning with a devise like this.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=219509


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## bighands (Dec 12, 2005)

AP,
Full length resizing won't push the shoulder back any more than what you have on a factory round. It sure does sound like a headspace problem, try smoke up the shoulder on a full length resized brass over a candle, then chamber it and you should see exactly where it is tight. 
You should use headspace gauges to do it right and I'm not saying anyone should do this, But I would probably ream it just a little at a time until factory rounds and F.L. resized brass just barely chamber easily if it is a headspace problem.


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