# coyote



## Mallard Masher (Jan 15, 2006)

I was wondering what type of coyote trap most of the longlines were using. I was told that the square jaw Bridgers were working real great. Any comments.


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## conibear (Dec 30, 2005)

Mallard masher Thats what i use all modifacations on #3 Bridgers and #2 bridgers and also use the dogless Monatana # 3 they are all great traps hope this helps :beer:


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## Trapper62 (Mar 3, 2003)

Mallard,

Bridger makes a great trap, I prefer the #3 Montgomery dogless (which is no longer in production and in demand when you do find them) The 3# Montana is almost identical to the monty. Another really good coyote trap is a 1.65 Bridger off-set, with a center swivel. I have not had a coyote bust or pull out of this trap yet!

But it does not provide the larger jaw spread


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## price403 (Jan 3, 2006)

I've been using Duke #2 and #3 coilsprings for a few years and haven't had any pull outs at all. I just welded a piece of 9 gauge wire on the top of the jaws to increase the surface area and a swivel in the middle of the chain. They're a LOT cheaper than any other traps too. (7 or 8 bucks a piece) That way I could put a lot more out for the money...


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## cro (Jan 17, 2006)

i have a few yotes on my deer lease that i wouldn't mine getting rid of instead of shooting on the run. can you guys post a pic of one of these traps. thanks :sniper:


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## Trapper62 (Mar 3, 2003)

Cro, here is a link to the Bridger 1.65. It comes center swiveled, off-set jaws and ready right out of the box. All I do is night-latch the pan and dog assembly, rust, dye and use. At $90.00/dz the only thing cheaper to use is a snare. IMO!










The link to the company I purchase from is 
http://www.nwtrappers.com/catalog/traps ... d/btcs.asp

The Bridger #5 is a killer beaver trap, but don't get pinched in it!

The new Montana trap was designed an manufactored by Gerald Schmitt from New Ulm, Minnesota and John Grahm from Jordan, Montana, both excellent trappers.

Here is Geralds web site to his supply business:
http://www.schmittent.com/

The #3 Dogless Montana is a little bit more spendy but worth the money if you do any serious coyote trapping.










I hope these pictures work?


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## cro (Jan 17, 2006)

THANKS FOR THE PICS 
i don't think that i'll be able to use something like that on my lease with the deer and hogs because i'll have all kinds of broken legs and stuff.

thanks alot for the info :beer:


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## price403 (Jan 3, 2006)

I doubt you'd have to worry about broken legs. I got my hand caught in a #3 coilspring trap the first time I handled one. It hurt quite a bit and it took me a few minutes to figure out how to get the jaws to open enough to slip my hand out with only one hand to use. It didn't break any bones in my hand, but it did leave a little bit of a knot on the back of my hand. Deer and hogs have some pretty tough bones in their legs, and their hooves are in line with their leg which makes it easy for them to slip right out if they get in one by accident. The trap holds coyotes and other animals by keeping them from pulling out past the pad on their paw. look at a dog's paw and you will see why. If you're looking for traps to use a few times you can't beat the Duke traps. A dozen #2s are $78.95 or #3s are $94.95 from http://www.murrayslures.com I wouldn't reccomend anything smaller due to the smaller area the coyote would have to step in. A #2 is 5 1/2" across and a #3 is6" across. That's a decent sized area for a coyote to step in at a set. With new traps I just boil them in water and baking soda for 30 minutes, rinse, and then wax them. I don't fool with dye until I've used my traps for a year or so. They usually rust enough to make the dye stick by then without having to wait for new ones to rust before using them.


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## cro (Jan 17, 2006)

thanks for the info


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