# Savage110



## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

I was looking at my savage 110 in 30-06 the other day after reading some on glass bedding and free floating your barrel. I never looked too close before so i never noticed it before, but the stock on one side of the barrel seems to be touching or maybe even pushing on the barrel and there is a gap on the other side. When out shooting targets I have always seemed to have a few flyers in my five shot groups and I just assumed that was my doing but now am wondering if maybe this could be a problem. Any help???

Thanks
Matt


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## rifle6 (Jan 7, 2007)

my wife came with a savage 110 in .270. i really don't like the 110.
this one would be ok for 5 shots then All over the place, i really..REALLY cleaned it and worked up a load for it still all over after 5-6 shots. so i tested it a little 1 shot clean open bolt wait 5 mins. shoot clean open bolt wait 5 mins. i did this for 15 shots.. guess what it did shoot ok. so i free floated and bedded it. i also took the front sight off and replaced the set screw witha plug screw.
it helped alot now it can take regular bench speed shooting with about a 1 1/4 group @ 100 yds i played a little more and cryoed the barrel now it shoots about a .75 group thats all i could get out of it. but i can live with that.


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## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

Ok heres a little more on this gun. I just took it out of the stock to clean the barrel along with everything else. Before i took it off i could run a piece of paper between the barrel and stock without it binding up.

Once the stock was off i noticed on the right side of the barrel that the blueing was wearing off along the length of the barrel where the stock stops wrapping around it all the way to the end. So obviously when the barrel is warming up it must be touching. I've started to sand one the inside of this stock but am not sure how far i should go and was just wondering what everyones opinions were.

Also, the stock looks to be touching the retainer nut that holds the barrel on the action. Is that okay or should i be sanding a bit there too??

Thanks
Matt


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## rifle6 (Jan 7, 2007)

i don't like a stock to touch any part of the barrel, including the nut.
i think once you get all the clearence issues taken care of you will notice a big difference, then you might want to glass bed your action, it is not very hard.


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## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

Ok sounds like i have a little more sanding to do then. I kinda planned on glass bedding it once i can afford the kit i found on midway. Think it was around $30-35 and was supposed to be able to do two rifles. I'll try what I have done so far this week sometime and see how it shoots.

Thanks for the advice,
Matt


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## People (Jan 17, 2005)

A full free floating barrel is the way to go but if it is touching the tube in the area of the chaimber it should not hurt it at all. Many Match guns are bedded with the action and the first few inches of the tube.


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## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

I was reading a little on bedding again last night and was wondering about that. The article i was reading said the first 1 3/4" of a sporter barrel should be bedded and the first 2 1/2" of a bull barrel. Why the differences between barrels? And why bed the barrel at all?


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## clampdaddy (Aug 9, 2006)

I would try useing some thin cardboard (cereal box, match book papper) under the action just behind the recoil lug to lift the action in the stock. That may be enough to clear the barrel from the wood. If not you could try a piece under the action and up one side to shim the action over a little.

I did my first bedding job with a kit from Brownells. It was a great learning experiance. I got damn close to totaly glueing my action into the stock with a barrel that was only hand tight in the reciever , not to mention the goopy bedding compound all over my clothes and workbench.

Anymore I just use that playdough looking epoxy (JB Stick Weld) that you get at auto parts stores and liquid car wax as a release agent. I put the epoxy in the stock, slather the action/barrel with car wax, bolt it together tightley, wait about one minuit, take it apart to make sure it's not glued together, and let the epoxy air dry for an hour or so. I only do the front of the action and the first two inches of the barrel. If something doesn't look right it is easy to scoop out the stuff ( in the first few minuits) and try it again or if everything looks fine but you see a spot that needs more epoxy you can let it dry and add some more. Your savage probably has a pillar in the stock where the rear action screw goes thru the stock but if it doesn't a large roll pin or a piece of steel brake line cut to the proper length works well.


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## Hunter_58346 (May 22, 2003)

I just bought the kit at Gerrells in DL for 20$ and it does 2 rifles. He said he would match any Midway price with proof. The kit is easy to work and cheap!!!

JJ


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## bamajeepjunkie (Feb 20, 2007)

so the principle behind this is so the action does not move in the stock, but the barrel is free to move, just trying to get my info straight


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