# 300 WIN MAG VS 338 WIN MAG



## o1_crash (Nov 17, 2006)

I AM GOING TO BUY A NEW RIFE THIS YEAR BUT I DONT KNOW WHAT TO BUY. ITS GOING TO BE A 300 WIN MAG OR A 338 WIN MAG BUT I DONT KNOW IF IT IS WORTH IT TO SPEND A $100 MORE FOR A 338 WIN MAG OR JUST GET A 300 WIN MAG. ALL IM GOING TO DO WITH IT IS HUNT DEER AND COYOTE AND USE IT TO TARGET SHOOT? ANY THOUGHTS WOULD BE HELPFUL.

THANKS


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## Horsager (Aug 31, 2006)

300Win. In general it's flatter shooting, recoils less, and there's more factory ammo available.


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## Plainsman (Jul 30, 2003)

300 Win mag.


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## weasle414 (Dec 31, 2006)

My cousin bought a 300 win. mag. a few years ago and I like it. He's killed 4 or 5 deer with it now and shoots it at the range quite a bit. I don't know about the 338, though.


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## caribukiller (Oct 30, 2006)

well if it has to be one of those 2 i'd pick 300 but if it's just a flat shooting gun you want buy a 25-06 if you don't reload or a 264 win mag if you do both shoot really flat and have enough power to kill deer and not do a lot of damage to coyotes.


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## Invector (Jan 13, 2006)

Go .300. Like Horsager said it is flat shooting and does not have the recoil the 338 does. If you are going to just shoot deer and yotes go .300. I shoot a 300 for mid and semi long range deer and with the scope i have on it have yet to have a deer travel more then a step after being hit. This past year I got my buck at 252 yards using a 150 grain XP3 from Winchester. Hit him in the back of neck, the bullet took out part of the heart, and continued through the rest of the body the long way. The 338 is a really good elk gun and is able to take deer up to 1000 yards with reloaded ammo. But if you buy just factory go .300. It might be a bit over kill for yotes but get a scope that compliments the range this cal has. I have a 6-18X42mm hunter from Scheels that I payed just over $200 for. The scope also has the turrets that makes target or long range shooting much easier since you can set it for that range and let er fly. The other nice thing about the .300 is you can get match king BTHP for target shooting these would also do well for yotes since they dont expand on impact there more for target shooting so it would be like shooting a FMJ at a yote.


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## Jiffy (Apr 22, 2005)

sigh.....sigh..........sigh


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## Jiffy (Apr 22, 2005)

Invector said:


> I have a 6-18X42mm hunter from Scheels that I payed just over $200 for. The scope also has the turrets that makes target or long range shooting much easier since you can set it for that range and let er fly.


How do you do this? I would like to learn.


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## Jiffy (Apr 22, 2005)

Please......


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## huntin1 (Nov 14, 2003)

Jiffy said:


> Invector said:
> 
> 
> > I have a 6-18X42mm hunter from Scheels that I payed just over $200 for. The scope also has the turrets that makes target or long range shooting much easier since you can set it for that range and let er fly.
> ...


and


> Please......


Jiffy said Please! I think he really wants to learn. 8)

Me too! Will my Nikon 4.5x14 SF Mildot be good enough, or will I have to go to Scheels and get me one of them high dollar hunters?

huntin1


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## Horsager (Aug 31, 2006)

Wondern' myself how to make that MOA scale work if I don't know MY OWN rifle's velocity. Do you use the "Jedi mind trick" to make the bullet go where you want? Or is there some mastery of "The Force" that allows you to know your turret spins with incomplete data?


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## Longshot (Feb 9, 2004)

My gun shoots so flat I needs no adjusting.  :lol:

Horsager, the "Jedi mind trick" and "the force" work better on gravity than it does on the bullet.


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## o1_crash (Nov 17, 2006)

THANKS FOR ALL THE REPLYS I WILL GO WITH THE 300 WIN MAG.


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## Invector (Jan 13, 2006)

Jiffy have you in your great wisdom ever gone out and shoot at 100 yards marked it on the turent then gone to 200 shoot a few times till it hits how you want it then marked it then gone to 300 shoot till it hits how you want it to hit and so forth? Or do I have to write a book just for you on how to do this. I will call it Just for Jiffy :lol:

As of right now 0 is dead on at 100 yards, 1 is for 200 yards, and 3 is at 300 yards. I need to do some more shooting to set it at farther ranges. But even you Jiffy (or I should say iffy) can do this. Going out and shooting the gun is part of it...GOD do I have to explain everything to you guys? Cause so far I have had to and I think I might be getting that carple tunnel syndrom from it. :lol:


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## Jiffy (Apr 22, 2005)

Invector,

Thanks for the reply. What?? I don't understand....I'm just trying to learn here. :huh: Please explain futher. Thank you. Sorry I take a while to catch on to stuff like this.


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## Longshot (Feb 9, 2004)

How about a book title like "Long Range Shooting for Jiffies". I would be careful you may get sued by the "for dummies" publishing companies. It's just too close to their calling card titles. :lol:

I just couldn't resist Jiffy. 
This post has officially been high jacked!


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## huntin1 (Nov 14, 2003)

Invector said:


> Jiffy have you in your great wisdom ever gone out and shoot at 100 yards marked it on the turent then gone to 200 shoot a few times till it hits how you want it then marked it then gone to 300 shoot till it hits how you want it to hit and so forth? Or do I have to write a book just for you on how to do this. I will call it Just for Jiffy :lol:
> 
> As of right now 0 is dead on at 100 yards, 1 is for 200 yards, and 3 is at 300 yards. I need to do some more shooting to set it at farther ranges. But even you Jiffy (or I should say iffy) can do this. Going out and shooting the gun is part of it...GOD do I have to explain everything to you guys? Cause so far I have had to and I think I might be getting that carple tunnel syndrom from it. :lol:


I.....I.........I.........









huntin1


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## Jiffy (Apr 22, 2005)

So what I should do is go out to the range at about 100 yards and turn my right knob (elevation) until I am hitting close to the target then turn my top knob (windage) until I am hitting close tothe target and then mark it with a 0. Do I write the 0 on the scope somewhere? Then I continue the same at 200, 300 ect? How do I know what the wind is doing? What if my top knob (windage) doesn't click far enough to hit the bulls eye? Thanks


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## Jiffy (Apr 22, 2005)

Sorry, I forgot this.....I heard something about para..... Well, I think its called paralex or paralax or something like that. How do I get rid of it and dO I need to even worry about it to begin with. Thanks

Maybe it has to do with how I shim my mount on my scope?


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## Jiffy (Apr 22, 2005)

Oh, I also wanted to just say that I know I "got off on the wrong foot" with you. I know I have A LOT to learn and thanks for the information. I am looking forward to learning more. Thanks again.... Lee I just have a lot of questions is all. Later :beer:


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## Burly1 (Sep 20, 2003)

Invector, don't get frustrated if you can't get these guys to understand how your cool Scheels scope works. You see, they learned to shoot with mildot scopes, which require mathematical calisthentics, enabling them to shoot "minute of bad guy" out to 1000 yards. That one, two and three stuff is only confusing them. :wink: Burl


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## Horsager (Aug 31, 2006)

*Invector wrote:*


> ever gone out and shoot at 100 yards marked it on the turent then gone to 200 shoot a few times till it hits how you want it then marked it then gone to 300 shoot till it hits how you want it to hit and so forth?


Kinda like putting a guy up on a ladder, having him hold the lightbulb and 3-4 other guys turn the guy/ladder combination.

Burly, I have no mil-dots and just got my 1st turret about a month ago. Been shooting subtension for a little while though.[/b]


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## MossyMO (Feb 12, 2004)

Jiffy & Horsager
I have 4 Scheels scopes, one of these scopes is a 6-18X42 and I intend on getting another. After Invector writes his thesis on "Just for Jiffy" we can take mine out the range and perfect this technique. :beer:

I think
1 for a 100
2 for 200 and
3 for 300 would be less confusing for us though?


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## Horsager (Aug 31, 2006)

Mossy, for you I think we'll use a chronograph (I have one) and a ballistics program. Should shortcut the process by a couple hundred rounds or so. We'll run the #'s, paper test the theoretics, print the results, tape them to your stocks and be done. Thinkn' this is a pretty easy and quick project when done in this manner.

Edited to add, there will be no "marking of the turret"!! It's much easier to use the numbers already printed on the turret and have the required dope taped to the stock. Some overlapped clear strapping tape works quite well.


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## Jiffy (Apr 22, 2005)

I guess I'm not worthy of training.........


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## Jiffy (Apr 22, 2005)

Horsager said:


> Mossy, for you I think we'll use a chronograph (I have one) and a ballistics program. Should shortcut the process by a couple hundred rounds or so. We'll run the #'s, paper test the theoretics, print the results, tape them to your stocks and be done. Thinkn' this is a pretty easy and quick project when done in this manner.


I like the 0 = 100, 1 = 200, 2 = 300....ect. method better. I just can't figure out how to get that black marker to show up on my scope. I'll keep trying.

One more thing, when I move my top knob the left and right doesn't move. Also I can't figure out why my elevation keeps changing all the time. Is my scope loose? Thanks.


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