# best way to cut down arrows



## ohio_coyote

My dad and i have just cut arrows down with a pipe cut somewhat like that.. it has one circle blade.. and u put it in there and tighten it and twist and then tighten and twist bla bla bla and then it just is cut nicely.. i was wondering if this is a good way and it is hurting my accuracy?

Also i shot and jerked for some reason being stupid and hit a piece of wood and it pushed the insert in and bent it about an inch up these weren't cut down yet so am i still good cutting it down or is it junk? i will be cutting way past that about 10 inches maybe.. so is it still good? just let me know thanks!


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## bowinchester

we cut our arrows dremel high speed cut off wheel. we put the arrow into a drill and spin it slowly and make the cut with the dremel. spining it in the drill helps make a strait cut.

as for your damaged arrow it is probably fine. if you wanted to be truely safe i would say dont use it but if it were me i would if it looks ok.


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## hunt4P&amp;Y

I assume they are aluminum arrows? Since the end bent, and it pushed in, instead of blowing up!

If it is you can cut it off, then check it to make sure it is true!

I also agree with the fact of using a dremel style cutting wheel! I think I know what you are talking about for cutting. It would work on Aluminum arrows, but not on Carbon!

Hope that helps!


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## bowinchester

hunt4P&Y said:


> I assume they are aluminum arrows? Since the end bent, and it pushed in, instead of blowing up!
> 
> If it is you can cut it off, then check it to make sure it is true!
> 
> I also agree with the fact of using a dremel style cutting wheel! I think I know what you are talking about for cutting. It would work on Aluminum arrows, but not on Carbon!
> 
> Hope that helps!


we cut our carbons that way. that is how our local archery shop (Schaffer Performace Archery) told us to do it because we didnt want to spend the money on cutter/ it has been working for us for the past 5 or so years


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## hunt4P&amp;Y

You use a pipe cutter on carbons?


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## bowinchester

no sorry we use the dremel i miss read your post.


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## nmubowyer

chainsaw


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## NDTerminator

Without question the* BEST *way to cut arrows to length is an arrow saw made for the purpose. A model with at least 5,000 RPM will cut both carbons and alums to length perfectly.

I can't imagine why even a halfway serious archer doesn't have an arrow saw, as one costs less than a dozen decent quality carbon arrows.
I've had mine for better than 10 years and it's still going strong. Only need to replace the cutter wheel every 3 years or so, and I cut a lot of arrows.

If by "best" you mean "cheapest and least precise", then use a pipe cutter for alums and a dremel for carbons. The pipe cutter will do a pretty good job of making a square cut, but if you use too much pressure it crimps in the mouth of the shaft. The dremel cuts carbons great, but is much, much, more difficult to get a square cut with than an arrow saw. I know as like most, I started out using a pipe cutter and dremel.

Either way, a really good investment is a G5 Arrow Tool, which trues up the front of both alum or carbon shafts. If the mouth of the shaft isn't square then the insert will not be true with the centerline of the shaft when it's put in. If the insert isn't true, then it's virtually impossible to get consistent accuracy, particularly with broadheads.


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## bowinchester

i have a question about the insert not being ture. i have heard this before and i undertsand the concept except one thing. the insert slides into the shaft snugly and goes in roughly 1/2" to 1" so you have all of that suface area keeping the insert ture and strait. how does the end face of the shaft effect how the insert sit. again im not disagreeing it just dosent all make sense to me.


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## NDTerminator

The insert doesn't necessarily make firm/consistent contact with the walls of the shaft. In fact, most have a fair gap, which allows adhesive to fill the space. The only place where the insert makes firm contact every time is at the shaft mouth. This is particularly true with alums, carbon inserts seem to have tighter tolerances...


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## barebackjack

bowinchester said:


> i have a question about the insert not being ture. i have heard this before and i undertsand the concept except one thing. the insert slides into the shaft snugly and goes in roughly 1/2" to 1" so you have all of that suface area keeping the insert ture and strait. how does the end face of the shaft effect how the insert sit. again im not disagreeing it just dosent all make sense to me.


You are correct. But if the "lip" on the end of the insert doesnt make consistant contact with the end of the shaft all the way around it can affect the "trueness" of the insert to shaft by putting more pressure on one side than the other thus ever so slightly "canting" the insert in relation to the shaft. It doesnt take much at all to take the whole system out of whack.

This is precisely why I will NEVER let scheels cut arrows again, they botched a whole dozen. Couldnt get a broadhead to balance worth a hoot on any of them.


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## NDTerminator

I'm here to tell you Jack, that G5 Arrow Tool is a miracle device for truing up cut shafts. A bit pricy, but you'll forget about that when you see how consistent your arrows shoot...


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## bowinchester

thanks that does make sense. so do you see tighter groups with truer insers? if so roughly how much tighter?


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## NDTerminator

Depends on how well your bow is tuned and how good you are, but where you will see it most obviously is with broadheads. If a broadhead is not true, there is no way it can fly consistently...


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