# Food Plots



## DeVore (Apr 18, 2005)

Is there anyone out there that are familliar with planting and maintaining food plots? I am interested in what you plant and how to control weeds.


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## Habitat Hugger (Jan 19, 2005)

Can't beat corn or sunflowers weeded with a standard row crop cultivater when it rains, although our food plots SW of Mandan have been worthless the last few years because of lack of rain and too many does. (deer eat what little comes up early in the year flush with the ground long before it matures) Probably just drill in some wheat (they leave this alone till later) and leave it standing until the drought breaks. If it gets too weedy we can at least spray it. Anyone have a crystal ball for rain?? We have found over the years that corn, flowers and wheat in that order are beneficial to upland and deer. Have tried millet, safflour and PF's "rooster booster" with limited sucess. But its dry out there, maybe be better over by Steele.


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## bretts (Feb 24, 2004)

If your not looking to plant corn, which I am assuming your not you should plant some biologic, that works best with a frost. Some of that stuff will work all summer, then when a frost hits, it will be even better cuz the sugars in the plants react to the cold temps. I don't think they do much for the weed control, but another thing you should do is fence of a piece of the property so you can keep track of how much the deer are eating at that certain piece of land. The seeds for that stuff don't need to be planted down in the ground, mother nature takes care of it, all you need to do is dig up a piece of land, and spread biologic all over.


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## Habitat Hugger (Jan 19, 2005)

We planted a patch for 2 or 3 years but it was so dry it never even came up. Have you had any luck further north where it rains once in a while?


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## DeVore (Apr 18, 2005)

Well in the past i have grown corn which was roundup ready so that did take care of all of the weeds. Last year I planted some straight red clover in witch I kept clean with an ocational shot of post or select or a mowing for broad leafs. What I am really looking to plant is the biologic or something on the same lines as this. My problem is that there is so many different kinds of plants that are growing in the same plot that weed control is a problem. Does someone have an answer to this besides mowing it??

DeVore


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## Burly1 (Sep 20, 2003)

I'm certainly no expert, but I have read a bit on the subject and most all of the seed distributors recommend using an erradicant in the Fall, before planting their seed the following Spring. We will be putting in food plots for pheasants this year and are hoping for rain, along with everyone else in the central/Southwest part of the state. Burl


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## KEN W (Feb 22, 2002)

How many rows of corn make a good food plot?

And is it a good idea to mix in Sorghgum or Sunflowers?


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## Habitat Hugger (Jan 19, 2005)

We have found that if you have a choice of a number of smaller food plots versus one or two big ones, go for the multiple smaller ones, especially adjacent to cover if possible. They are more trouble to plant and weed but are more beneficial to wildlife. We have a bunch varying in size from about 3 to maybe 15 acres. Sometimes we put sunflowers in one or two of the rows of the corn planter and have a corn/flower mix, although we got the impression that the sunflowers seem to do better if they are planted by themself and not mixed with corn. Also we got the impression that regular feed corn grows better when it is dry than Roundup Ready corn. 
This morning when someone mentioned BIOLOGIC I called a couple of friends SE of Bismarck who had planted several plots of it the past 2 - 3 years. They both said they got nothing but weeds - whether the weeds took over or the Biologic winter killed, they didn't know, only that they wouldn't put any more in. One guy had plain old alfalfa planted next to Biologic and has a great catch of alfalfa a year later and weeds for Biologic. Don't know anything about its hardiness in cold dry ND myself....Anyone growing it or had any experience with it out there?? It looks good on TV but haven't heard from anyone who has been able to grow it in ND. Maybe too dry or too cold, (although the last few winters have been really mild!) or maybe they got a bad batch of Biologic Seed.


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## KEN W (Feb 22, 2002)

What are the rules for adding say....some rows of corn inside one side of existing CRP acreage?


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## BenelliBlaster (Mar 17, 2002)

I would be concerned with the biologic. Some of the mixtures are not very hardy when it comes to North Dakota Winters. If you have enough moisture you can get it to grow but you are never going to have the stand you want. I recommend using row crops like corn and flowers and have some alfalfa to use as a forage. The alfalfa will take hold and should maintain a good stand for 5-6 years. Also with the amount of CRP acres we have in ND we don't need to plant anymore native grasses. The animals are attracted to easy food sources like corn and flowers not Biologic(just my opinion)
There really is no difference between field corn and Roundup ready corn as far as moisture requirements. Roundup is nice to keep the plots clean but is about 20-50 bucks more a bag. Huntnfishnhabitathugger when selecting a variety for planting don't just by some off the shelf but consult a seed professional. Different varieties hand tougher conditions better than others. Make sure you are buying the best product for your needs not the cheapest. You and the animals will be happier in the end.


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## Habitat Hugger (Jan 19, 2005)

Thanks for that information, B BLaster. We got the roundup ready corn from the local pheasants forever group so the price was right. I think the main thing is that it was so dry than almost nothing grew, and there are so many deer they would nip the growing stem by pulling it out (you can hear a "squeek" as they yank them out, even!) and annihalate the entire food plot by middle of August. I'll keep that in mind if it rains and we plant corn again, though. Thanks


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## Habitat Hugger (Jan 19, 2005)

Ken, I forgot about your question. Sorry. We don't have any CRP (too many strings and hidden costs attatched) but I know a couple of people with it. I think you can only have food plots up to about ?5%? or so of the total acerage and food plots or tree plantings have to be pre approved by the powers that be. Usually approval is granted, though.


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## Roughrider (Apr 12, 2005)

Biologic is way too expensive per bu. for a little bit of junk clover and a fancy package. Your county extension agent might be able to help you out with some ideas of what might work in your area.


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## oatsboy (Mar 29, 2005)

treefoil{birdsfoot} might do the trick,once established grows so thick holds its own against any weed,stays greenforever,winter hardy, reseeds itself.oats also is a cheep alternative and will also draw turkeys but is a one year deal.
another idea is to find out what the specs call for contractors to use that are hired to seed down new gas/power line installations in your area and try that.
chemical control on your plot will be your quickest and if you properly identify your target pest cheapest answear for weed control.
not living in your state ,nor soil conditions or spraying regulations known i based my advise solely on my assumption we have similar climates.
as stated earlier in a previous post run any idea past your county "HANK KIMBEL" for his two cents.


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## BenelliBlaster (Mar 17, 2002)

Birdsfoot Treefoil is none existent in this part of the country. From my understanding it is tough to get a good stand because of the harsh winters and dry summers. My understanding of the plant it sounds like it is a great forage crop for both cattle and wildlife but not worth trying to produce. I recommend going with the traditional alfalfa and row crops. :2cents:


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## savage99b (Oct 30, 2005)

I'll start with predicting rain,its the shortest.A meterologists at ameeting years ago said that whatever California has for winter we will have for summer.It's been right 29 of the past 34 years since I heard it.food plots for dry conditions milo,sorghums,millets,sunflowers,kocha,or if pheasants forever is active they donate a mix for food plots that works well for everything fured,or feathered.  savage99b


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## redlabel (Mar 7, 2002)

KEN W said:


> What are the rules for adding say....some rows of corn inside one side of existing CRP acreage?


The local FSA office will work administers the program for CRP plantings and will work with you on a program. My experience is about 5 acres per 160. Mine are rectangular and are 42 or 48 rows with 24'-32' of millet planted the last week in June on the south or east side of the planting. Corn seems to work best for me if planted by May 15th and I cultivate it once.

In CRP the deer will usually have all the corn eaten before the end of September.


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