# Limited scope adjustment?



## coyotebuster (Oct 8, 2007)

I recently bought a Bushnell Elite 4200 tacticle scope for my long range coyote rig. I got the scope zero'd at 200yds just fine. I then turned the turret and found out that I only have 3.5" of elevation adjustment left, which doest leave me with nearly enough adjustments for shots out to 600yds. I was wondering if anyone else has had this kind of problem? I am planning on getting a 30MOA canted base so hopefully that helps give me some more adjustment to work with.

Thanks


----------



## Kelly Hannan (Jan 9, 2007)

when you first adjusted it, did you have to raise it up alot? maybe take it back loose and shim the front then lower your adjustments


----------



## coyotebuster (Oct 8, 2007)

Not too much. I think quite a bit of adjustment got used up from bore sighting. Using shims helped but it also made my objective lense sit so close to my barrel that I can no longer have my scope cap on because it rests on my barrel.


----------



## AdamFisk (Jan 30, 2005)

Did you reset the turrets to zero? Bottom of page 6 and top of page 7 of your manual.

http://www.bushnell.com/manuals/riflesc ... IM_WEB.pdf


----------



## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

A 20MOA base would probably do you fine. Stay away from shimming a scope, it'll be the weak link and have a chance of failing. Then you're SOL.

what are you shooting as far as round and rifle?

xdeano


----------



## gunattic (Jan 9, 2005)

coyotebuster said:


> Not too much. I think quite a bit of adjustment got used up from bore sighting. Using shims helped but it also made my objective lense sit so close to my barrel that I can no longer have my scope cap on because it rests on my barrel.


 Sounds like you shimmed the wrong base.. you said you didn't have much elevation adjustment.. a shim on the front would be needed to raise the crosshairs and that would raise your objective lens off the barrel.


----------



## coyotebuster (Oct 8, 2007)

I'm shooting a .243 and am planning on getting into reloading soon. Right now though i'm shooting federal 80gr softpoints and am getting some awesome groups with it. I'll be buying a canted base as soon as possible. Has anyone used the sierra 85gr BTHP or the Berger 95gr VLD on coyotes? If so how did they work?

Thanks.


----------



## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

if your saving fur use the 85g HPBT. I tried the 95g Bergers in my 1-10" twist and I couldn't stabilize them. So make sure you can stabilize them first. I moved down to the 90g Bergers and they do a lot of damage.

xdeano


----------



## coyotebuster (Oct 8, 2007)

Since mine shoots the 80s so well i'll probably go with 85 BTHPs.


----------



## People (Jan 17, 2005)

I have mounted some scopes and the scope needed almost all the elevation to get the rifle to shoot right on at 100yds. It is never a good day for that.

I looked in the manual and I did not see how many minutes of elevation that scope has. If you do get a 30 min it will bring you close to the bottom or at it. You will want to count how many min you have total on your scope. The reason is you want to be near the bottom of your scope so you will have all the up you need.

I have a 300WM with a 20moa base on it. Any way I am lucky I have a NF that has 100min total adjustment. This may not seem like a big deal but some scopes only have 50 and others are only 40min. What that means to the long range shooter is for me from mechanical zero with the 20min base I have to bring my scope down 20min to get close to what should be my 100yd zero considering the alternative would be a 0 moa base. So with my current setup I have about 70 min of up to play with. If my scope only had 40 min total and I put a 20moa base on I would have the whole 40 to play with. Now if it was a 30moa base with a 40moa scope I would bottom out still be about 10moa high at 100yds.

Most of this is not usable to the average shooter but I like shooting as far as I can. I would really like a 40moa base on my rifle so I can push the limits as far as I can. That would give me 90 moa of scope play to work with. I am sure I would not ever need that much but at least it would be there.

With all that being said never shim a scope it is a poor way of getting your gun to shoot where you want it to. If you have to ensure you have a 1 piece scope base or you will have to lap your rings to make sure they do not hurt your scope.

To be or not to be? That is the question. The answer? Chuck Norris.


----------



## huntin1 (Nov 14, 2003)

I agree with what some others have said. Never use shims. In extreme cases shims can cause a bent tube if used incorrectly. The one possible exception would be the Burris Signature rings with the inserts.

But the best way to gain elevation adjustment is to use a one piece canted base. I use a 20 MOA Ken Farrell base on my 308, 10 FP. Have no problems getting to 1000 yards if I desire.

Oh, and do not raise the front of the scope to gain elevation adjustment as some have suggested. Raising the front of the scope will have the opposite effect. The rear of the scope is raised to gain elevation adjustment.

Get a one piece canted base, 20 MOA should be enough, but get the 30 MOA if that is what you want, make sure that you have enough clearance between the objective and the barrel though.

I like the Farrell base as it is a bit thicker than most, it raises the scope a bit higher so you have the cheekweld issue to deal with, but it also gives you a bit more clearence between the scope and rifle. I took care of the cheekweld issue by getting an Eagle stockpack.

This is what it looks like on my rifle, scope is a 4x16x42 Monarch.










huntin1


----------

