# Moly bullets?



## .223-beni (Dec 2, 2007)

I thought that at one time I had heard that once you start shooting moly bullets in a gun that you should stick with them. Any truth to this? I think it had to do with cleaning the barrel.


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

I use to shoot Moly in my 22-250 when I was shooting prairie dogs, I found that there was less degradation when shooting a lot of rounds, allowing for fewer cleanings in a day. I'd clean every 200 rounds or so. Since then I've switched back to regular bullets. I didn't see any benefits of Moly except the cleaning.

With Moly you need to coat the barrel as well as the bullets in order for you to get the maximum benefit. It's a liquid that you patch into the barrel.

I didn't see velocity changes or accuracy changes with moly.

It is on the other hand a pain the butt to have to clean the moly out of the barrel. It takes a lot of scrubbing. Plainsman put me on a product that works good for getting the moly out. It's called Spooge. I couldn't get their page up anymore so I'm not sure if they're still in business. Montana Extreme has some good products also.

It took me a long time to get all the moly out. Heck i'm sure there is still some residue in the barrel.

xdeano


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## huntin1 (Nov 14, 2003)

You can shoot other bullets through a rifle that uses molied bullets, accuracy may degrade a bit, but it won't hurt anything. If you are going to switch completely then it is advisable to get the moly out of there.

Every bullet that goes through my 10FP is moly coated, I like the stuff. But if I needed some ammo in a pinch, say I ran out on an out-of-town hunt, I would not hesitate to use non-molied stuff.

huntin1


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## NDTerminator (Aug 20, 2003)

Moly is not a good idea if you have to deal with humidity as it will trap moisture between the coating & barrel. This can be bad news, fast...

I once did an experiment with Moly bullets and a Remington 700VS in 22-250. Starting shooting without cleaning, and shot a 5 shot group for record avery 500 shots. After 3,000 rounds, the groups had opened up from around .50" to .80". That ain't bad...

HOWEVER... cleaning the Molly completely out was a cast iron *****! It was as if the stuff fused itself to the bore. It took several back breaking 4 hour cleaning sessions over 4-5 days to get it all out.

Since learning that it can trap moisture I've quit using moly coated bullets. I went back to just cleaning thoroughly ever 20-30 rounds, then firing one fouling shot before putting the rifle in the safe...


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## huntin1 (Nov 14, 2003)

NDTerminator said:


> Moly is not a good idea if you have to deal with humidity as it will trap moisture between the coating & barrel. This can be bad news, fast...
> 
> I once did an experiment with Moly bullets and a Remington 700VS in 22-250. Starting shooting without cleaning, and shot a 5 shot group for record avery 500 shots. After 3,000 rounds, the groups had opened up from around .50" to .80". That ain't bad...
> 
> ...


This is another one of many myths in the shooting world. Molybdenum disulfide is non-hygroscopic it does not attract moisture and if it is "fused" as you say to the bore how does the moisture get under there. I've been using moly for years and when I first heard this moisture pitting with moly I started watching my bore real close. Hasn't happened in my case. David Tubb says it doesn't happen. I know several guys up in Alaska who swear by it, no problems there either.

If you've had moisture problems it was in spite of the moly, not because of it.

If you want the moly out with a little bit less work than conventional cleaners, use Kroil Penetrating oil.

I gotta go coat some more bullets with moly. 

huntin1


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

I had this same question bak when I was back in college., so i asked a chemist. I should have wrotten the equation down but from what I can remember it goes something like this.

Molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) + water (H2O).

The sulfur (S2) will break off because they have a very light afinitly and will create a salt, not the salt you're think NaCl table salt, but a salt anyhow. salt and water you know what happens. H2SO4 is sulfuric acid, so you can see it isn't to far off. But you'll need to have a really high air humidity to even start to rust, but it could happen. If I think of it i'll give a professor an email tomorrow and see if he can write it out in crayon again. 

xdeano


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## NDTerminator (Aug 20, 2003)

I don't believe we have the humidity to worry about up here, but in years past I have corresponded with guys who had bores ruined by moisture after switching to moly. Me, I don't see any reason to take chances...

The main advantage I ever saw when I was shooting it was it seemed I could get more shots in between having to let the barrel cool...


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

your right about the friction, and having to let your barrel cool less often. This is another advantage, but it very slight, your barrel will still heat up pretty quick.

You're right about not having the humidity to worry about up here, but what about the people who only shoot a few shots every year and leave their weapons in their lockers the rest of the time. It give it plenty of time to rust, with or without moly.

I'm not a chemist so I really don't know if moly and water will react very fast. But I am doing a quick test right now with hydrogen peroxide, H2O2 with two moly bullets. It is very good reaction. After about 2 or 3 minutes the bullets in the 3% solution had already started to bubble. I'd imagine no one would use peroxide on their barrels, but it isn't that far off from water.

give it a try if you don't believe me, it's slow but fun to watch.

xdeano


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## People (Jan 17, 2005)

I use it on all of my firearms I even used to use it for my 9mm. I stopped for handgun because my hands were getting too dirty.

If you are worried about it damaging your gun they make this product called oil. I hear that it protects against rust and what not.

About the only real draw back to the stuff I have seen is it gets every where. Do not try to remove it each cleaning just clean when accuracy goes away. I do run a patch of break cleaner down the bore after I oil it.


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## Elk Brass (Jan 9, 2009)

I used hornady 55grain molly coated bullets in my 220 swift and was very very unimpressed. The bullets would not group and would have a tendency to tumble and keyhole the target. :eyeroll:


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## The Norseman (Jan 8, 2005)

I really like Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) coated bullets. I have been using
them exclusively for years in my:
Remington Model 7, .223 Rem, stainless steel, black synthetic stock, 
Barrel twist is 1 in 12 inches. Barrel length is 20 inches. Weight 6-¼ lbs. 
Scope: Leupold VXII 4 - 12 power w/ parallax adjustment. Leupold S/S 
rings and one-piece base.

Action is torqued down to the stock; 15-25 inch pounds (25 in-lbs) front screw;
torque down the most. Screw by the pistol grip somewhat torque down, 15 inch pounds.
Screw front of trigger guard (or middle screw) screwed down enough not to fall out

My accurate reload for this rifle is:
Varmint load: .223 Rem; Bullet: Hornady 50 gr. Moly V-Max Boat Tail # 22613
Powder: IMR 4198, 20.5 grs. Primer: CCI 400 Small Rifle.
.223 Cartridges are Remington Nickel-plated brass.
Velocity 3200 - 3500. Easily groups within a dime at 100yds

Advantages to using Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) coated bullets
1. Moly coating, which is a dry lubricant, reduces heat build up, by reducing friction.

2. Moly coated bullets extends barrel life. The Moly lies down a protectorant that
protects the barrel internal surfaces against heat, flame and friction.

3. Moly coating aids in keeping the barrel accurate, by reducing throat erosion,
in the area just forward of the chamber. If you looked through a bore scope you would
see cracks and roughness caused by heat, flame, and pressure.

4. Moly bullets cause less bullet jacket fouling in the bore because of the dry lubricant
staying in the bore.

5. I have not experienced any difference in accuracy switching back and forth between
jacketed bullets and the Moly bullets.

6. Since there is a coating between the bullet and case neck, there will be no corrosion
between the bullet bearing surface and cartridge neck. Decreased tension, less chance
of increased pressure.

7. Moly-coated bullets won't tarnish or corrode after handling.

8. Barrel always appears clean and shiny. The only cleaning I do is run a patch with
oil on it, down the barrel. Molybdenum Disulfide will attract and capture moisture.

9. I do not worry about cleaning the Moly out of the bore (someone would have to
convince me why). If you want to clean, do as you normally do, just swab the bore
with oil patch when done.

I have also been shooting the Hornady .223 (.224) 50 gr. Moly V-Max
Boat Tail # 22613 above, in my
Rifle: High Standard AR15 Model HSTX6551 Flat Top Carbine.
Cartridge: 5.56mm NATO / .223 Remington Cartridge.
Barrel/Chamber: 16 inches long, marked "5.56 NATO 1 - 9"
Sights/Scope: Burris Short Mag 3-9 power, Ballistic Plex
Scope Rings: Warne 1" Maxima Quick Detachable (Weaver/Picatinny).
Trigger: Timney Trigger, AR-15 Item #664-S, Small Pin .154, 4 Lbs. Pull.
(skeletonized trigger).
Black Bag Shell Catcher attached (Velcro/rod frame assembly fastened to hand guard).

Just bought several boxes of Hornady .223 (.224) 55gr. Moly Flat Base # 22713
Going to give them a try.

TTYL


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## deadyote (Nov 17, 2008)

I dont like the moly coat took me 5 hours to get it out of the bore will not use ever


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