# Link to training video



## BROWNDOG (Nov 2, 2004)

Her is a link to to training session the other night. This was done from a cheap kodak point and shoot camera. I do this from time to time to see what I am doing wrong at the line. I film the training session and then go home and watch it and almost every time I can pick out things that I did wrong, even when I know I am filming it. Some times you don't even know your dogs butt is off the ground, his whistle sit is sloppy, or you may have thought his spine was aligned right but from a rear view he was a few degrees off either direction.. What this does is makes you more aware next training session. Film some of your sessions and you will be suprised at what you see, good and bad. :lol:

Todd


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## Chaws (Oct 12, 2007)

Looks really good! Pretty dang good line manors and a real go getter dawg you've got there. One bit of advice would be to make sure the dog is lined up and take a breath when the dog's lined up and looking at the next mark, then take the bird, transfer it to your other hand, then send the dog. Far too many times I've seen the same process that you've had and the dog has launched off at the next mark while your body moves to toss the bird behind you.

Looking great though!


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## gonehuntin' (Jul 27, 2006)

Better. Two or so points. As Chaws says, you are still taking the bird incorrectly. Second, the dog is not turning with you. His heads is, but that does you no good. The body should also turned so you can allign the spine to the mark or blind.

Look closely at the video. When you send him for bird #2, the dog knows where it is but you don't. You actually send him to the left, but he bends right and goes right for the bird.

These are nit-picky littly things, but they're the reasons I won and others lost. It's a shame to put all that time and juice through a dog and then have YOU make the mistake and blow him out of contention.

Don't be offended Todd, I live vicariously in other's successes.


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## BROWNDOG (Nov 2, 2004)

> These are nit-picky littly things, but they're the reasons I won and others lost. It's a shame to put all that time and juice through a dog and then have YOU make the mistake and blow him out of contention.
> 
> Don't be offended Todd, I live vicariously in other's successes.


No offence taken what so ever, thats why I post these things, the nit picky things are what makes it or breaks it.. And thanks for pointing them out. Three years ago I didn't know what a FT was but after watching one for 8 hours I knew I wanted a dog that could be competitive and play the game, I got lucky and got one on the first try that has the talent and the go to be a big dog..

I'll post a video of some blinds we ran tonight and feel free to try and offend me on those as well :beer: Any advice is appreciated. Every day is a learning experience. He is a fun dog to run but only has one speed WFO, but I guess that is what makes him fun.


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## BROWNDOG (Nov 2, 2004)




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## gonehuntin' (Jul 27, 2006)

This ones no fun. That was near perfection Todd. Beautiful spinal alignment. Beautifully given cast and nicely taken. Lined the second one. What more can I say?

Well, maybe this. Everytime you go to line you have the transmitter and heeling stick in your right hand. You are signalling pup that this is a training situation and not a trial. Stick the heeling stick into your pants in alignment with your spine so it runs straight up your back behind your head. Put the transmitter in your back pocket until you send pup.

Now, once he's sent, grab the transmitter and hold it at ready. When your in a trial hold your hands in the exact same position without the transmitter you do with the transmitter. Keep him guessing.

Once you get rid of all the equipment, you'll be able to then *take the bird with your right hand, holding it behind your back and not dropping it until the dog is sent.* It's a very, very, small difference, but a very, very, important one.


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## BROWNDOG (Nov 2, 2004)

Great advice Gh,

He has pretty good line manners training, but gets really amped up at a trial, and for that reason we won't run alot of trials at this point in his life.
He is fine in the holding blind, but as soon as you take the chain off and he hears "GUNS UP" he turns in to an ideot. From the holding blind to the line can be a challenge, I realised I need to go REALLY slow.

I train with a fairly large group on mondays 20 people or so and he acts more like he does at a trial, so we get plenty of opportunitys for correction.

Here are a couple of things Iv'e been trying, to make him think were at a trial and keep him on his toes and guessing.

I'll go to the holding blind on lead like I would at a trial with no E-collar on ( I'll have it laying next to the line, and put it on after we get to the line)
I'll take off the lead and head to the line with just the stick, and like you said have it tucked in the back of my pants, and make corections with the stick if needed, a few feet from the line I'll give him a firm sit, and then put the collar on. Anyone see any problems with this???

Also the past two mondays after we run I have set him 20 yards off line, with me in a chair a short distance from him and gave him one SIT and then made him watch the next 15 or so dogs run if he moved anything other than his head He got a collar correction followed by a SIT. The first week took a little work he probably got corrected for half the dogs, it's not like he is creeping or lunging, but his butt would start to come off the ground, or his front feet would pitter patter, but I believe this dog could be a bad creeper or a breaker if given the opportunity, so I strive for ZERO movement. The second night we did this by dog number 10 he accually layed down, I wasn't so exciting anymore.

Rick talked to Danny Farmer about him a week ago and Danny suggested Doing 5 to 10 minutes of OB with him morning and night, and incoporate some colar conditioning with the session. Some sit nick sit's and some heeel nick heels.. Dogs get to this point and you tend to forget about OB, your so worried about training for marks and blinds that you forget the stuff that really matters.

Off to go train.

Todd


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## gonehuntin' (Jul 27, 2006)

I agree with Danny and here's a couple of other tricks I used to get control of dog's like yours. IN TRAINING, LET THE JUDGES CORRECT THE DOG!!

Go to line with the dog wih no heeling stick or collar. Stand directly in front of the two judges chairs. Have the judge in the left chair have a hidden heeling stick. Call for the bird's. If he crouches, if he moves an inch, if he fidgets, have the judge bellow, NO, SIT!! and give him a good crack on the flank. Do NOT let him have a bird. Have the bird boys pick the birds up and heel him back to your car. Wait a few dog's and do it again.

Be very careful with how often this drill is done. You can over do it to the point that you can't get the dog to sit in front of the judges.

Now, for sending him. Always send him by HIS name and always with a hand down. To test him, with a bird being thrown and shot, actually call a different dog's name and give a twitch as you do it. Don't put a hand down. If he moves, curcify him. Do this until he sits rock stiff and steady and no matter how many dog's names are called, he waits until you put that hand in front of his nose and call his name. Good Luck.


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## Chaws (Oct 12, 2007)

Awesome advise all around guys! Browndog, looks like you've got those lining drills going good, dog runs nice and straight, that's for sure!


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