# Glassing your rifle



## papapete (Jan 2, 2005)

Hey guys.
I've been looking at ways to improve my rifle's accuracy latley. I have a remington 700 chambered in 22-250. Would glassing or putting pillar beds in the stock make a big difference? I haven't decided if i will tackle the glassing myself yet. If i hire it out, what should i expect to pay for that?
Thanks


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## NDTerminator (Aug 20, 2003)

How big of difference depends on how well your rifle shoots at this time. My first 700 BDL in 22-250 shot sub MOA all day long, and all I did to it was set the trigger down to 2.5lbs. Killed a ton of fox & coyote with that stock rifle. I stupidly sold it and it was 15 years before I found another LH BDL in 22-250. This one would hang in right around MOA, after I did a float/bed/trigger, it is a consistent .50"/.75" performer.

In my neck of the woods a float & bed runs $60 and a trigger job $30.

You can do both yourself.

Remington 700 triggers are very easy to adjust, rather than me go into it just google it.

Brownell's Bedding Kits make glass bedding a snap. You just need a couple uninterrupted hours to do it, then it takes several days to cure properly.

If you haven't already done it, I would start with setting the trigger down, then floating the barrel, then bed if the first two steps don't give you what you want...


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## papapete (Jan 2, 2005)

My trigger is set at about 2lb's right now. I was looking online on how to adjust that, it doesn't look that hard. I'll look into those kits.
Thanks


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## farmerj (Jun 19, 2004)

I had an old Rem 788 in .243. It would shoot 1"-1 1/2" groups all day long.

I pillar bedded the action and I cut that down to 1/4-1/2" groups.

So yes, it's DEFINITELY worth bedding.

My M14 benefited from similar bedding. I didn't have the gumption to do that one though. I can hold a 1/2" group at 200 yards with that rifle easily.


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## papapete (Jan 2, 2005)

i bought a kit off of Midway's site for about $30. It will do two guns, so i might do my 270 also. The kit had very good reviews.


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## farmerj (Jun 19, 2004)

pillars can be purchased on the midway or Brownell's websites.

Myself, I used a piece of steel brake line that was large enough for the action screws to go through. I used a file to create grooves in the steel so that the epoxy would hold.

You can get several pillars of a steel 12" piece of brake line. The big thing is to have a material that will not compress when you torque in the screws.


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## papapete (Jan 2, 2005)

Wow!!! This is extremely nerve racking. I glassed my gun tonight, I hope to hell that i didn't glue my gun together.


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## farmerj (Jun 19, 2004)

did you paint on the release with liberal amounts?


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## papapete (Jan 2, 2005)

I put that on all over. I felt that i covered it very well. I took it apart tonight, with a lot of convincing, and i still had it stick to areas that it should not have. It was very frustrating, i had a big chunk come out around the recoil lug. So, I spent about 45 min. cleaning it back up to try again, or bring to a gunsmith.


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## farmerj (Jun 19, 2004)

Hears an article I used years ago to learn how to bed a rifle.
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

as to your recoil lug. Put a piece of black electrical tape on the front and sides of it. The part you really want to have tight is the back side. This helps to give it that little extra clearance to come out without damage to the bedding job.

Go to the local craft store and get some kids modeling clay. Use this and a nice putty knife to fill in ANY machine marks on the receiver.

Cover everything with carnuba car wax.

This should give you the release you need and to ensure that the bedding doesn't get into the machine marks in the receiver. And it doesn't take much to get it to hold enough to chisel off the stock.

Wrap your barrel at the point it meets the end of the forearm with black electrical tape. This helps to center the barrel/action in the stock for alignment.

Tape ANY outside surface you don't want to have bedding on it. It helps with clean up.

Once you bed the rifle, you will want to refrain from taking it apart any more than needed. Each time you do, you risk damage to the bedding.

as to putting pressure on the fore-arm or not, you can find out only by trying. I have had two rifles like the free-floating and one that I had to bed the forearm for an inch and adjust it till it was correct. In the end, if I didn't torque the action to 40 in-lbs, the gun just wouldn't shoot.

As a general rule, the lighter weight barrels tend to like some slight pressue on the fore-arm. The heavier barrels can free-float a lot easier.


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## farmerj (Jun 19, 2004)

A VERY nice write up complete with decent pictures. Much of the same things I have learned needing to be completed.

http://home.comcast.net/~davidawilson/L ... ding01.htm


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