# PAN TENSION



## sonic (Mar 9, 2007)

Was wondering How to get my 1.5 coil Dukes to trip a little easier, they seem awful heavy - I just bought a few today and after getting the Pan to sit level- they sure seem hard to trip. Is there anyweay I can adjust the pan tension?? or am I just have to deal with it the way it is?

I guess I could set for elephants but I would need a bigger Fleshing beam-

Any help would be great...


----------



## Sasha and Abby (May 11, 2004)

Why can't you just shine up the sear with a file?


----------



## sonic (Mar 9, 2007)

I thought about that- seems like a there's a lot of slack where the Dog sits and when I do put tension on it the pan slides down ever so slightly until it trips__

the pans are all messed up- If I want the Pan to sit level I need to slowly push down on the pan until it sets level, problem is there's a fine line between sitting level and tripping the pan- right now if I leave it, theres all that movement in the pan before it trips, ( not good under a foxes Foot) So I carefully level it out until it's just about perfect hanging on the lip of the dog, but if I go to far it trips, or is that the way it is??? I would like it secured like the picture Now but only level and then hardly any movement before it springs -- If that makes sense!! Seems to me that it should work smoother and not have such a twisted pan to work with - that's all- just starting out trapping so am learning as I go here- it just doesn't seem right the way it's set up now- But not sure how to correct it-


----------



## barebackjack (Sep 5, 2006)

Are you seating the dog?

Tap the dog in (where it attaches to the frame) towards the pan. This will bring the pan closer to level, than you can adjust the pan further for sensitivity.


----------



## sonic (Mar 9, 2007)

thanks guys, I did both and things seem a lot better-= thanks for the help-


----------



## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

BBJ is right, take a vice grip and bend that tab on the frame that the dog is attached to toward the pan.

This has nothing to do with pan tension though. That screw and nut will give you the pan tension. What are you planning on catching with it? Different tension for different critters, this will alleviate some of the incidental catches that you don't want.

Also you can file a little off the latch so that when it sits completely flush it doesn't have as much creap that a critter can feel when he steps on the pan.

xdeano


----------



## Trapper62 (Mar 3, 2003)

Sonic, night latch those 1.5 and you will be fine! Xdeano is hit the pan tension just right - use the bolt


----------



## sonic (Mar 9, 2007)

I'm afraid I'll mess up the latch if I try that nite latch filing--

I filed the latch square and made it shorter, crimped the dog tight so there's no more play in that also, bent the dog frame in a little and filed the dog smooth, so there's no more ridge on the end..

loosened the brass bolt a little for a lighter trigger...

I like the looks now-- now- level pan, very little creep, No sloppy Dog- -

1 more ???- Must I dye and Wax these guys, or can I just start putting them out?? I already boiled off the oil.

other wise Good to go -

Thanks for the Help .....


----------



## Trapper62 (Mar 3, 2003)

Depends what you are after when it comes to dying a trap, if you are buring these for canines there really is no reason to dye them. If for water sets where the trap is going to be visible than I would.

Definetly wax them this will keep them from rusting.

Good Luck


----------



## sonic (Mar 9, 2007)

right now I just threw them in the marsh next to a Rat house and caught my first rat- there as shiny as ever but I had it just below the water line. can I wait until I'm done for the yr, and then do it up right. ( wax/ Dye) you think they'll be fine until then?


----------



## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

If your just using them for rats it isn't going to matter if there dyed or not. I'd say use them for now and dye them in the spring when it's a bit warmer.

I typically wait for a warmer day to wax just because the traps are warmer and i don't have to wait as long for the trap to heat up to the waxes temp. Then after the trap has been dipped in wax the warmer air temp lets more of the wax to drip off leaving you with a really nice thin layer instead of a cake of wax. I also let it hang for about a week outside. Then I pack them away until I need them.

My water traps I don't wax just because I don't like dealing with them being so slippery, the triggers get a bit quick. All my water traps get Speed Dipped, instead of logwood dyed. The speed dip is basically tar and it'll help against rust quite a bit. So which ever way you go there are options. A good rust is good for dying/dipping because it holds it better. So again use the traps, then give them a once over with a steel brush before you dye them.

Should be good to go. 
xdeano


----------



## sonic (Mar 9, 2007)

Thx for the Advise-


----------

