# strechers



## trapper (Nov 9, 2005)

hey all you guys can i make strechers out 2 by 12, of plywood or is this a good idea or even posible

thanks

have a good one

:-? :-?


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## Dick Monson (Aug 12, 2002)

A 1" board (variety of width for different game) works well as you can narrow it quickly with a draw knife. Cedar shingles work for 'rats. Easy to shape. Some use light rebar bent in the proper shape with a removable brace at the bottom; and advantage is that you can knock out the brace to remove the pelt if it over drys. With a wood strecher long pelts should have a narrowed lath run up the belly side for a spacer.


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## Brad.T (Mar 29, 2004)

Don't waste your time building them buy your stretchers from A.M Grawe in Wahpeton.


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## Fallguy (Jan 23, 2004)

Hey Brad do you have the # for that guy in whapeton? I want to work on my one fox that I shot this weekend, but I don't have a stretcher. If you have his number give me a call tonite and we can figure it out. Can you do a coyote and a fox on the same size strecher, or do you need different sizes?


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## aylor70 (Jan 2, 2006)

for wood stretchers do you pretty much just pin them to a board? if thats how it is it sounds way easier than using the wire stretchers.


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## Dick Monson (Aug 12, 2002)

Most pelts are skinned "cased" that is like a tube sock--with no split up the middle. One exception is beaver pelts that are split. These are tacked or attached to the board or frame flesh side out. Cased pelts are only tacked at the end of the hind leg. They are also fleshed and moderately dried flesh side side out and then turned back fur side out before they are too dry to turn. If you leave a cased pelt on the board too long you will have trouble turning it and may tear it. Properly streched pelts dry quickly depending on the temp, sometimes 6-8 hrs is enough. Pay special attenetion to fleshing around the armpit and stuff a little wad of newpaper in the front leg to dry quicker.


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