# Custom 300 Win Mag



## Plainsman

xdeano and I have both had the same idea and sort of been in a race. He's faster. 

I thought I would do this anyway since I am doing some different things. Last week my 30 cal Bartlein 5R barrel came in. Yesterday I went to my gunsmith and we got started. I am taking my old 300 Wim Mag Sendero apart and adding this 28 inch Bartlein. 
It's a miracle my old rifle shot so well. I lapped the lugs myself because it had nearly no contact on one lug. However the action was softer than the lugs. The lugs contacted well, but not because the lug lapped, but the action did. Now the action is off .007 so it will need to be faced in the lathe. The odd thing is after I lapped the lugs the bolt face was square, so now after squaring the action locking face the bolt locking lugs and the face will need to be re-squared.
Also, there is .007 slop at the back of the bolt, and .005 at the front. I will have him sleeve the bolt. It locks up tight, but I want to make sure the bolt is square with the barrel.
Yesterday we removed the barrel from the action, and measured up the parts to see what needed work. From left to right my recoil lug was off .001 so we ordered a new machined 1/4 inch recoil lug.

Also we were worried about flex in an aluminum jig so my smith is building his own with heavy wall steel. I'll throw in a pic of that, but that's about as far as we got yesterday. Now I'll wait a few weeks. My smith is going to Kansas for a week or so to a well know smith for some extended training before we go further. Meanwhile I'll be thinking about what kind of crown I want etc.

My smith had been reading that the Remington recommendation of 65 inch pounds of torque on the recoil bolt can flex the action. Even though I have a machined aluminum core in my stock the contact doesn't look good so I will skim bed the action myself.

Pic of building action blueprinting jig.


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## xdeano

I'm not faster, my smith is awesome! :thumb:

That jig that your smith is making there, looks similar to what my smith made and used for my action as well. They work well and you will be getting a good truing job out of that set up.

A new recoil lug is one of the best purchases you can buy when putting a gun together, it insures that everything is going to be square with the world, because it indexes off the barrel shoulder and off the face of the action.

One suggestion is ask your smith to use his table top mill and mill a good amount of material out of your stock so instead of skim bedding you'll get a little more room to work with and have more bedding to make it solid as a rock. It is a lot easier for them to do, then it is with a dremel and a drill. Trust me it took about 2 minutes to hog mine out to the point that the only thing touching was about an 1/8 inch around the screw holes. He shaved off the aluminum bedding block about an 1/8 deep. 
Again, i'm kicking myself for not taking more pictures of that to do a bedding thread. Oh well something that you might want to do for the guys. 

It's a fun process, take it all in.

xdeano


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## Plainsman

Yes, he is going to hog out most of the action. He will plane the front area just behind the recoil lug flat. That's all aluminum and I want that as a reference area. It should only take .001 or .002 to get that area flat.

I have a Ken Ferrel 20 degree picatinny rail that I will put larger screws in like you did. I forgot to look back and see what size you used. I know the #8X40 screws are a couple bucks apiece and you only get them from places like Brownell's. I think I will go with #8X36 which is standard fine thread. I like to be able to go to Home of Economy and buy a new screw. Since the difference is only four turns in one inch the difference on the action will be less than 1/4 turn .

My camera will take stills while doing video so I may do two or three minute videos of some operations. I hope to have this all done by some time in April.


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## huntin1

I would also consider bedding the Farrell to the action. Use release agent on the action and the bedding will stay on the base. The Farrells are pretty uniform, but I was surprised at the gap between the base and the action that you can't see when the base is screwed down. It was only evident by the amount of bedding material that remained on the base.

Of course you have a Remington, not a Savage so you probably won't have to worry about that. :wink: 

huntin1


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## Plainsman

> Of course you have a Remington, not a Savage so you probably won't have to worry about that


haaaa, you know my opinion about that. I bedded it the first time. When I took it off yesterday I was wondering if I would need a brass mallet. It came right off so evidently the Minwax paste furniture wax is an ok release agent.

I don't know if I told you, but the second week-end of deer season I missed a doe at 600 yards four shots out of my 6.5 X 284. I blamed it on all the leavy spurge stems I was shooting through. I like my Vortex scope, but it does have one thing I don't like. The turrets don't have a locking set screw. The turret has an internal spring. You just lift it up and drop it into position. Yesterday I shot it, and it was three inches left. I don't know if the scope got whacked, or I lifted as I turned it while shooting prone. It is something I need to watch close

That darn Murphy has been screwing with me a lot lately. I bought an RCBS universal priming tool this week. The little plastic bag with all the parts had parts for my old RCBS, not the new one. Then there was no locking set screw in the handle. RCBS was good though when I talked with them, and I also talked them out of a new aluminum jaw set for my bullet puller.

After being at the gun smith yesterday I am scratching my head wondering why that Sendero shot at all. The smith and I were laughing and it looks like all the mistakes came together to line the bolt with the bore even though everything was a mess.

What crown would you guys go with? The Sendero comes with an 11 degree, but I think I want the crown protected more. The smith said he could do a 11 degree but set back down in as far as I want. I am leaning towards setting it down about 1/4 inch.


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## xdeano

plainsman,
The screws that I used were 8-40's. But like you said it would be nice to buy some cheap screws, nothing wrong with the 36, not going to be a hill of beans.

I have a recessed crown on mine, but you can't see it with the blackout mount on the front. I like the recessed crown because it can take a little more abuse and not get nicked, or dinged up.

similar to this,









xdeano


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## Plainsman

I'm sure I will recess the crown for protection as you point out. I can't decide if there is any advantage to an 11 degree inside that recess, or if I should just cut straight across like on my 308 and Remington Rangemaster. I don't think I will break the crown like the one in the pic.


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## huntin1

Like xdeano I like the recessed crown. My 10FP looks similar to what he pictured.

huntin1


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## xdeano

I'd say do it straight across, or the recess crown. Not a big fan of the 11 degree but, The tool looks like a counter sink tool that one would use for wood, only bigger, and sharper. 

I really like the recess crown. I've also seen a recess crown that was about an inch in, looks crazy. Also looks like a dirt trap. Don't know what the advantage would be.

xdeano


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## Plainsman

I will recess it for sure, I just can't decide on straight or 11 degree back in the recess. I want some protection from my clumsy bumping it around. My Browning sure have a deep recess, but are still accurate. I don't think I will get that carried away.

I have done a few workshops at sporting good stores. People bring in their rifles that don't shoot anymore. One look at the muzzle all dinged up and you know exactly why. They drive around during deer or coyote season with their rifles in the front, muzzle down in the gravel of their pickup floor.


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## Csquared

> After being at the gun smith yesterday I am scratching my head wondering why that Sendero shot at all.


That question is easily answered by one word on the left side of the action 

That's why Remingtons shoot like a million bucks , but cost considerably less than that. Their assemblers don't need to worry about minor details like concentricity and squareness :wink:


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## Plainsman

> That question is easily answered by one word on the left side of the action


 

Oh, oh, I'm going to have to move this thread to the hot topics. :rollin:


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## xdeano

OH, OH,

I'll take, "What is a Remington?" for $500, Trabek!
:lol:

xdeano


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## huntin1

uke: :eyeroll: uke:

:sniper: :sniper: :sniper:

How's that for a quality post?

:beer:

huntin1


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## Csquared

All it was missing is the demand we prove our comments with substantiated facts :wink: 

:beer:


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## KurtR

And 38 quotes from 3 year old posts :wink:


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## Plainsman

> The tool looks like a counter sink tool that one would use for wood, only bigger, and sharper.


I have that tool myself and have had good luck crowning a half dozen rifles.

Today I am getting back to my rifle. I have been to busy with grandkids activities on week-ends and a vacation trip. Here are some pics as we move along.
Here the smith inserts the proper bushings to ream the action concentric and a few thousandths larger.









Reaming the action.









True action to .0002









True the face and action locking lugs.









Recut and sharpen the threads.









Notice the face, threads, and locking lugs.









I have to cut down on pics here. The bolt is aligned just like the action. Then a jig is put in the firing pin hole to center the firing pin with the bore. Next cuts are made in the bolt to attach sleeves that will give the bolt .001 inch clearance with the action. I could have spent $300 on a new bolt, but I wanted a perfect match so this is how we went. More to follow. Maybe tomorrow.


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## xdeano

Good Pics Plainsman, you're camera is much nicer then mine. Keep them coming!

xdeano


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## Plainsman

We finished the bolt today with the sleeves clearing the action by .0003 inch.

This is a little out of focus, but the smith is using the micrometer to check diameter of the sleeved bolt after taking off .0002 inches.









Here the front sleeve is finished and the smith is truing the bolt locking lugs.









Oh, oh I forgot what you call this, but you need it when you have removed the tailstock. This is in prep to face the bolt. The bolt rides in grease on brass contact points.









Notice the notch in the cutter. This allowed the smith to face the bolt without removing the extractor. This may appear a little blurry, but the lathe is running. 1/35000 minute flash stopped the action better than I expected. 









This is the action after complete blueprinting. 









This Bartlein 5R barrel will be mounted to the action as soon as ordered boring bars get here. The rifling needs to be removed before cutting the chamber because you can get chatter when cutting barrels rifled 5 lands and groves. We hope to have the finished barrel at 28 inches with a crown like my Cooper Phoenix.


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## xdeano

What do you mean chatter? the reamer should ride on the bore correct.

If it's drilled out, then a boring bar ran into the chamber just shy of the final reamer cut it should be fine.

You can see the 5R canted lands really well in the picture.

xdeano


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## Plainsman

Most reamers have an even number of teeth so when you have an odd number of lands you don't contact all the way around uniformly. That can set up a small vibration and cause a ripple in the cut rather than smooth. So the best way around that is just barely remove the rifling as far as the throat will go. The reamer will open it up slightly from there, and give you a smooth finish cut.


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## xdeano

sounds like an interesting concept. Keep the pics coming.

I thought you were going to do some videos. How's that coming?

xdeano


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## Plainsman

> I thought you were going to do some videos. How's that coming?


Sheeeesh I completely forgot about doing video. My camera will take stills while doing video too. Of course the gunsmith loaned me a complete four hour video on the process. Still I should have done that. Maybe I can still do the chamber reaming etc.


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## spitfire_er

Plainsman said:


> Most reamers have an even number of teeth so when you have an odd number of lands you don't contact all the way around uniformly. That can set up a small vibration and cause a ripple in the cut rather than smooth. So the best way around that is just barely remove the rifling as far as the throat will go. The reamer will open it up slightly from there, and give you a smooth finish cut.


I've cut many 5 groove barrels and this is news to me. With the correct size bushing on the reamer and a good sharp reamer there shouldn't be any chatter. I would think that unless you can run out a barrel perfect which is really hard to do and most people don't have the instruments to do it, you are not going to get a true chamber vs the bore. The amount of minute chatter you would get vs your ability to cut the lands perfect vs. bore are negligable to me. I would rather guide my chamber on the lands which have been lapped and uniformed from the manufacturer.

Not saying it doesn't produce a quality chamber, just can't see how it would produce a better chamber. I always bore scope my chambers and they look superb, never seen any signs of chatter.


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## xdeano

Spitfire_er,

I agree with you. But there is always more than one way to skin a cat i guess.

xdeano


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## Plainsman

spitfire_er I don't know, that is just what some gunsmiths have experienced I guess. Also, I'm not sure how much is removed, or how far up the barrel/chamber area.


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## spitfire_er

yeah, to each his own. Nice project by the way. To bad it's a Remmy! :=]


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## Plainsman

At it again last week-end.

I got the first few pictures mixed up. The shank was cut, then threads cut, and then the recoil lug drilled. 
First the smith drilled the hole to pin the recoil lug









Then the barrel was centered and the shank cut to size for theading









Next micrometer with a long shank was used to center the bore at the back and then as far up the bore as could be reached. Then muzzle at the front was checked, and there was only .006 runout from the factory.









I just realized I forgot to photograph the thread cutting process, so now we move right along to chambering. The chamber cutter was set up on a spring loaded devise that let it follow the bore using the bore for alignment. The gunsmith constructed his own devise to run oil through the barrel from muzzle to breach with 150 lbs pressure. This lubed the cutter, and more importantly kept chips out of the way to keep from scratching the chamber.









This week he is cutting the crown, bedding, and engraving the barrel 300 WM Match I hope my next post has pictures of groups.


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## xdeano

Looking good, keep it coming.

xdeano


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## Plainsman

The rifle is done, and I shot the first rounds today. I found that my brass had necks that were not concentric, and I had to turn them all the way down to .011 to get them concentric. I loaded the 210 Berger to an estimated 2800 fps by my guess and turned out an average of 2786 fps. I am six grains below max so I think 3000 ft is easily reachable.

I was a little shaky this morning so my first three rounds of the bipod was .4 inches. So I went to sandbags and shot three into .211 inches. I was .010 off the lands and that's a long ways for Berger VLD so I'll move in to .004 and add a couple of grains of powder. My primers were still round shouldered so mid range should be very safe for the next five rounds.

Here is the group. I backed it with white paper so you could see the holes in the black.


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## coyote sniper

Not bad for 25 yrds!! lol


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## Plainsman

coyote sniper said:


> Not bad for 25 yrds!! lol


lol, ya someone called me and told me some guy thinks it's 25 yards. I suppose I should tell everyone else on here that it's a 100 yard group. Oh, that muzzle break is done, and I'll pick it up tomorrow.

I already had my 308 Win in 700P blue printed, but after shooting this gun I'm going to pay to have it all done over again. I was going to sell it for $800 and buy a light rifle. It shoots .3 inches now, but if I can get it under .2 maybe I'll just buy a different rifle and keep this one too. I need an accurate toy so I don't ware out my good working rifles.


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## coyote sniper

I know better than that I was just having to give you some crap!!!  I will let dad know its done. What did he end up charging him for it?


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## Plainsman

coyote sniper said:


> I know better than that I was just having to give you some crap!!! I will let dad know its done. What did he end up charging him for it?


Check your PMs.


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## huntin1

If you look real careful you can see the powder burns on the paper. :sniper: :wink: :wink: :laugh: :laugh:

huntin1


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## Plainsman

huntin1 said:


> If you look real careful you can see the powder burns on the paper. :sniper: :wink: :wink: :laugh: :laugh:
> 
> huntin1


You must have been watching.


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## AdamFisk

I'd be happy of a group like that at 25yds!!! 

I'd say you got a shooter there.


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## xdeano

That's a shooter Plainsman, stop playing with the paper punch. 

xdeano


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## Plainsman

Wind was gusting to 35 mph today, but I needed to do some chronographing. Each grain I added brought me a little lower, and a little left. Last year in my 26 inch barrel with a very long throat I was getting 2975 fps with the 210 gr Berger VLD. Now I have a 28 inch barrel, but a tight match chamber. I have to load 2.5 gr less powder, but that got me to 2992 fps. That is with Winchester brass and Federal match primers. I have always got 50 to 100 fps faster in my old 300 Win Mag with Federal brass and CCI primers. So maybe 3050 fps. I'll find out sometime within the next week.

I didn't bother with sandbags today in all the wind. I just set up with the bipod, but I was still pleased with the group. Three shots into .369 inch. I'll sight in again once I have the load I want. My goal was 3000 fps. I was talking with the guys from long range pursuit and they said anything 3000 fps with a ballistic coefficient of .6 so at 2990 and a ballistic coefficient of .633 I guess I'm in that ballpark now.

They say you get best accuracy with your reticle centered, but I have been shooting a Ken Ferrell 20 degree picatinny rail and these groups were shot with my scope having three inches of down and 54 inches of up adjustment. Pic below.


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## Plainsman

I'll try get some other target pics up. I had the same guy put a new 20 inch medium DPMS barrel on my AR. With 75 gr match it shoots around 1/4 inch. The gunsmith was at the range today and he was so impressed he headed home to buy the same barrel for his Rock River. 
About four years ago I had a smith blueprint my Remington 700P in 308. It shoots most often around .3 inches. I am going to have this guy in Jamestown do that gun all over again and see if I can't get it under .2 inches. Then I'll just break down and buy a 6.5 Creedmore for my light walking around rifle.
My gunsmith doesn't do repair type work. He would rather build custom rifles or accurize rifles. If anyone is interested in having a custom he said he was willing to do a few. You can contact me and I'll give you his name and phone number.


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## Plainsman

I hope this photo isn't to bad. I had to reduce it way down for some reason. Anyway, I thought a pic of the finished product was in order. Well almost finished, the smith wants to bead blast it when he gets the equipment.


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## xdeano

Looks really nice. Needs a little color though. 
Xdeano


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## Plainsman

The gunsmith and I were wondering how this new rifle would perform with factory ammo. I was sort of skeptical since I had him cut the throat so long (jump for 190 gr SMK is .148" not sure of factory 180 soft point) to keep the long 210 gr Berger VLD out of the case (powder capacity). I started digging around and found a few rounds of old Federal Classic in 180 gr so it was off to the range with one of the grandkids this week.

I perhaps should have fired a few rounds before going for group, but I wanted to see if impact point changed from clean cold barrel to warm barrel. It moved high and right as compared to the 210 gr, but still grouped better than I expected. I had a tough time getting a measurement on this group because the edges of the bullet holes were not clean cut. Just to let you know I may be off five or ten thousandths of an inch.

Also, they advertise 2960 fps for a 180 gr, but I got 3063 average. My barrel is 28.25 inches. I expected most of the powder to be burned in 26 inches. I guess not. Wind was 4-7 mph from the left. The rifle was sighted in for 210 gr. I was shooting a Nikon Monarch on 16X.

Cutting the throat long may not let me set back and rechamber for longer barrel life, but it was more important for me to move the long bullet out of my case and into the neck. I don't know if any of this means much, but I hope it gives people something to think about if or when they do this.


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## xdeano

Plainsman,

I've been wondering about your 300 build. I just figured that you've been overly busy this summer that you hadn't had time to shoot much. It looks like it's shoot just fine to me. :thumb:

It's funny to see how much velocity spread there is from what the factory writes on the box to what the actual numbers are. I don't know how much 2.25" would have to much of an effect on 100fps. I'd maybe give it 30-50fps or so, I'd say the rest of the difference has to with temperature and factory numbers.

Did you get some color on that stick yet? of course it doesn't matter what it looks like up close, as long as they can't see it from 1200yds.

Keep up the good work. I'm sure if you gave out your gun smiths name, and phone number he might get a few calls for buisness now. Especially with the good work. I know that AdamFisk had a 6.5mm Super L/R built by him and from what I've heard it's doing very well also. I'm still waiting on a range report from him. oke:

xdeano


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## AdamFisk

Plainsman, glad to see you still enjoying the rifle...

I now know how Plainsman feels.....Get a new toy and then I'm stuck doing yard projects ALL weekend. Just finished up and now the wind is blowing pretty decent.

I started barrel break in Friday night and after only 8 rounds fired the 6.5 is showing potential. I ain't getting ahead of my self until I get some actual testing done, but I'm optimistic. When I get some data I'll post up, along with contact info for the smith. I also have a price sheet from him that I can share if interested too...


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## Plainsman

Ya, time has not been my own this summer. We had 50 some people for a picnic last week so I was in a race to finish a 900 square foot patio and fireplace. Now it's entertain grandkids until school starts. The oldest one shoots too, so I got some shooting this week. 
Here is what took up my summer. Moving 25 yards of black dirt, bringing in 18 yards of fill, moving tons of brick, block, and Indiana limestone by hand. It perhaps doesn't look like it but the fireplace is just under 9 feet high. I don't like smoke in my eyes.  I didn't start the opening of the firebox until I was two feet up. My idea was to keep little ones from falling into it.

This is what robbed me of shooting time this summer, and sent my to the chiropractor a couple of times. Getting those 48" X 16" X 2.25" rock slabs up top was tough on an old guy doing this all alone.


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## AdamFisk

Well that looks awesome!!!

Only thing it's missing is a spit and some chicken and brisket.


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## xdeano

Wow! That thing is huge. It looks darn good. You should have gotten longshot over there to give you a hand for a day, he's not doing anything. oke:

xdeano


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## Plainsman

> he's not doing anything


 That will stir him up. :rollin:

I'll weld up something to hold cooking utensils. I can't strike a fire to wood without thinking about meat. Same with picking up a bow or rifle. :thumb:

Maybe we should start a carnivore club. If your Christian you can believe God gave us dominion over the earth. If you believe evolution then you can believe it was meat that brought your ancestors down from the trees and left the vegetarians to be monkeys and liberals. oke: :rollin: :rollin: :rollin: :rollin: I'm in so much trouble. Where is that little angel icon we had before?


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## xdeano

The little devil emotion stuck a fork in him. :lol:

Im hoping that longshot gets out of the air conditioning at some point during the summer.

Did you draw a deer tag this year to get some use out of that lead lobber?

Xdeano


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## Plainsman

Yes I got a buck tag. I was thinking with only one point I may have to shoot a skin head this year. Four legged that is. Need that angel icon again.  I am going to miss not having an extra four doe tags. Decisions, decisions, 300 Mag, 6.5X284, 6.5 Creedmor etc etc. Can't kill a deer with each this fall. 

I think it will be the 300 talking to them this fall. :thumb:


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## coyote sniper

Plainsman said:


> Ya, time has not been my own this summer. We had 50 some people for a picnic last week so I was in a race to finish a 900 square foot patio and fireplace. Now it's entertain grandkids until school starts. The oldest one shoots too, so I got some shooting this week.
> Here is what took up my summer. Moving 25 yards of black dirt, bringing in 18 yards of fill, moving tons of brick, block, and Indiana limestone by hand. It perhaps doesn't look like it but the fireplace is just under 9 feet high. I don't like smoke in my eyes.  I didn't start the opening of the firebox until I was two feet up. My idea was to keep little ones from falling into it.
> 
> This is what robbed me of shooting time this summer, and sent my to the chiropractor a couple of times. Getting those 48" X 16" X 2.25" rock slabs up top was tough on an old guy doing this all alone.


Ha!!! Moving that all by hand??? Who are you trying to fool!! I saw that bobcat parked behind your lawn shed when I stopped by last week!!! lol j/k looks really sharp!


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## Longshot

xdeano said:


> Im hoping that longshot gets out of the air conditioning at some point during the summer.
> Xdeano


Yes I am spending some time at the hockey rink this summer for my boy's summer hockey and camps, but I did get out and shoot a few times this spring. I haven't had much time to shoot this summer although we have gone camping a half dozen times.

I will be getting my tags for ID soon and I got a muley buck tag in 4C for the second year in a row. How do you like them apples xdeano!


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## xdeano

Nice work Longshot. ID would be a nice place to go hunt. I ended up picking up a buck too. I just wanted the preference point and a doe. I would be more then happy with that.

xdeano


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## Plainsman

I'm done. I quit. No more. I'm satisfied that is. I dropped 1/2 grain of powder and my velocity is now 3017 fps (3002 but calculated for twelve feet from the muzzle) with the Berger 210 VLD. I seated the bullet from .010 off the lands to shoved into the lands .010. Now I am set right at the lands. I went out and tested that load yesterday. Everything was under .2 inches. This is my best target. I turned the turrets up 1.5 inches so I could see the bullet holes (not in the black) but I didn't allow for windage because I wanted to see the drift. The drift was slightly more than I calculated, so I may need to test on a calm morning.


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## xdeano

Looks really good plainsman. It's nice when you start hitting those .1's. Now that the berger hybrid bullets have come out, you should try some of the215g with a bc.696, or the 230g with a bc of .743.  sorry i had to open that can of worms. 

xdeano


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## Plainsman

The Hybrids are match and not hunting bullets right? Don't make me wish I bought a 1 in 8 twist.  Once I get into the 1/4 inch range I can't shoot any better anyway so I'm happy.

I'll bet I measure that group another five or six times before I can believe I'm doing it right.


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## confusedsoul

Thats a dang good group right there. I could see how someone shooting longer ranges would definitely benefit with that setup! I'll can't justify spending that kind of money on a custom rifle  I'll have to settle for the .3 CTC grouping w/Hornady factory ammo out of my X-Bolt :-?


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## Plainsman

.3 inches is very good. That's under an inch at 300 yards. I find a bipod and rear sandbag do just about as well in the field as sandbags at a bench. I copied huntin1's sandbag setup. He uses polybeads which are much lighter and move easily inside the bag when you squeeze it to lift the back or let up to drop the back. I think with rear bags your good to 1000 yards with a .3 inch group. What caliber is your Xbolt?


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## huntin1

Don't you guys see all those tiny black spots? Plainsman was so close to the target he got powder burns on it. 

Seriously though, dang nice shooting! I think I may have to rebarrel my 308 one of these days.

Huntin1


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## Plainsman

huntin1 said:


> Don't you guys see all those tiny black spots? Plainsman was so close to the target he got powder burns on it.
> 
> Seriously though, dang nice shooting! I think I may have to rebarrel my 308 one of these days.
> 
> Huntin1


Dang along comes a buddy and lets the cat out of the bag. 

When your ready to rebarrel I'll give you a name and phone number. I ordered a Kreiger Criterion match barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor pre chambered, threaded, and ready to go for $285. I think I paid $35 for a new heavy recoil lug. I followed the advise from some guys on here and found a Bell and Carlson Medalist stock at stockystocks for $239. I wish that barrel would hurry and get here.

Oh, yesterday I ordered a Timney trigger for my AR15. Anyone want to give me $100 for my JP trigger with a low mass speed hammer?


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## confusedsoul

Plainsman said:


> .3 inches is very good. That's under an inch at 300 yards. I find a bipod and rear sandbag do just about as well in the field as sandbags at a bench. I copied huntin1's sandbag setup. He uses polybeads which are much lighter and move easily inside the bag when you squeeze it to lift the back or let up to drop the back. I think with rear bags your good to 1000 yards with a .3 inch group. What caliber is your Xbolt?


.270 Win

The .3 group was with 130gr SST Factory Hornady. It really likes all Hornady ammo though. I've tried the SST's and Interbonds in 130 and 140gr with good results. If I do my part its pretty consistent for a factory rifle. I've yet to shoot it on targets over 200y though. Really want to find someplace I can shoot 400-500yds just to see how well it does.


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## Plainsman

> The .3 group was with 130gr SST Factory Hornady.


I'm jealous. :thumb: I can't get the 130s to shoot good in my 270. I guess I have not worked much at it either. I have had three 270's and for some reason my current rifle likes heavy bullets. I may have to pull that old girl out of the safe one of these days. I like rifles, but one bad thing about having a few is you don't get to shoot them all often enough.


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## KurtR

check out the matrix bullets for the 270 might try them for my buddies with the 165 heard they are easy to get to shoot


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## Plainsman

The gunsmith called and said he had his bead blaster. So he finished my entire rifle in satin finish. He also moved the bolt handle to a better position. He had someone else inscribe the barrel with the cartridge designation before, but went over that with much more bold and clear letters.


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## ANDY1913

Plainsman, I'm glad the rifle has turned out to be such an execptional shooter and thanks for your patience during the build while I got my shop in order. I know you will keep me up to date on the rifles performance.

Andy


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## Plainsman

Thanks Andy, and the 6.5 Creedmoor you rebarreled and switched recoil lugs for me is shooting just as good. I'll have the 300, the 6.5 Creedmoor, and the 6.5X284 all down on bipods sitting on a hill for deer season. Coyotes beware.

Did I tell you I shot two coyotes with the 75 gr hollow points out of my AR15? I was wondering how they were going to work since they are a match bullet. No comparison to the little 50 gr VMax. I took one running at 100 yards and the other at 400 yards. The first went down like a lightning bolt hit him, and the second made it about ten yards.


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## ANDY1913

Awesome! I need to get some loaded up and settle on a load so I can shoot some yotes sometime soon.


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## AdamFisk

Rifle looks as good as it shoots. Good job.


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## xdeano

so what kind of paint was used to paint the barreled action? Cerakote? Duracoat? i really like how the inscription turned out. looks very good.

xdeano


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## Plainsman

xdeano said:


> so what kind of paint was used to paint the barreled action? Cerakote? Duracoat? i really like how the inscription turned out. looks very good.
> 
> xdeano


No paint, just bead blasted dull satin.


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## xdeano

The picture is sure decieving then. Because it looks black.
Xdeano


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## Longshot

xdeano said:


> The picture is sure decieving then. Because it looks black.
> Xdeano


You might want to clear your computer screen! oke:


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## xdeano

Longshot, you're probably right!

but it sure looks black to me.

xdeano


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