# Non Slip\Steadying Help



## nemitz (Oct 18, 2005)

Im using Fowl Dawgs as a training method and Ive come to the part where you need another dog to do the training. The problem I have is that I dont have access to a nonslip dog. Is there any other way to train this particular piece that will mesh into the fowl dawgs method without the other dog.
I have taken my dog out several times and when I shoot she skips ahead about 5 feet and for her safety would very much like to have her steady.


----------



## Chaws (Oct 12, 2007)

Another person could be used in substitute of the other dog. Walk out while the dog sits during the process and watches you or another person go out and pick up the bird.


----------



## BROWNDOG (Nov 2, 2004)

If you don't have another dog and handler, you will at least need a thrower, while you handle the dog. Go through the whole sequence , correct if needed and have the thrower pick up the bird and repeat if a correction is needed. Set a standard as far as movement and stick with it..


----------



## nemitz (Oct 18, 2005)

I was hoping you 2 would reply. I appreciate it. I have had so much success with this program even though it is my first dog and i dont want to deviate far from its principles.


----------



## Chaws (Oct 12, 2007)

For a high drive dog like I have. Physical corrections for movement or creeping aren't enough. I switch it up from time to time, always giving some form of physical correction. If my pup moves on the line I'll give either a stick or e-collar correction and depending on the type of setup we're running or severity, sometimes will completely remove him from the line and put him up. Bring him back out again after a couple dogs and him hearing shots going off again and run it again. If he's really wound up tight and gives me a big jump creep on the line I'll correct, heal him off the line and stake him out so he can watch it go on and give corrections for not sitting even when tied out after commanding him to sit.

I've seen the most impact in my dog with not allowing the retrieve because of his very high drive.


----------



## gonehuntin' (Jul 27, 2006)

Before you look for another dog, challenge yours. I always taught mine to never go by name *until your hand was down over the nose*. In the final stages of steadying, when the birds were down, I'd call other dogs names, twitch, anything to tempt a break. Only when the dog stayed through all of these temptations would I put my hand down and call his name.

If at any time the dog broke, I'd pick up the birds myself and run the test again. A break is never rewarded by getting a bird.

Creeping is the same. Chastise the dog severely, pick up the birds, and do it again.

You will eventually need an honoring dog if you're running trials. If not, do it in the field.


----------



## BROWNDOG (Nov 2, 2004)

> until your hand was down over the nose.


This is something I don't see alot of Amerature trainers do. With high drive dogs I think it is a must on the go bird, no matter what is said or is going on you can't go untill the hand goes in. I feel this will cut down on alot of breaks..

I honestly feel I have one of the Highest dogs I have seen in the 4 years of running trials, not the highest but Bodey is right up there, there was even a time around 2 years old that I thought about selling him because I was tired of beating up on him every training session, I knew he was talented but it was a constant battle.. Since we have a compromise, if he moves *forward* at all he gets killed for it ( whip and collar collar correction) and the birds get picked up, and he watches. Repeat set up.

If he crouches and does not move forward he gets sent, Iv'e come to the conclusion that this dog will never sit completly still as the GO bird goes down and it only hurts his marking, if he is sent after a BIG correction. I feel at 4 years old there has to be some give and take with a dog like this.. At this point this is my standard, if you stick with a standard they understand it and hopefully follow it.[/b]


----------

