# Gunsmithing Continued... <pic heavy>



## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

Another show and tell...

First I want to say a Huge Thank You to my Gun Smith and good Friend who did all the metal work and teaching me a ton about how accurate rifles are made. I appreciate it greatly man.

A little back story. I've had this rig in mind for a while now, close to a year ago I had a coworker tell me about this little known round called a 338 Norma Mag. Now those of you who know me, know that i'm a recoil wuss, so the big magnum cartridges just don't appeal to me much. After watching some youtube videos and talking to a few guys and shooting a few large mags I decided to take the plunge.

The first part of it for me was how to pay for it, so I ended up selling one of my shooters to fund this rifle, but it was for the better. Once I sold it I started looking for available parts. I settled on some great parts, got some great deals, it was basically a dream rifle.

I started to order parts that were going to take the most time to get first. I had a AAC Titan Ti suppressor on order from March 2012. I ordered a stock that was going to take 6 mo to get, then the action which was going to be shipped out in March 2013, then the barrel that was going to take 6 weeks to get. The first thing that I got was the stock, the part that was going to take the most time. Go figure. The action took a while for them to release due to ATF issues on their end ended up getting it in July.

So the shopping list is as follows;
KMW Sentinel Stock
Badger Ordinance M2013 in 338 -20MOA base
Benchmark 1-9.5T custom contour 1.300" for 5" down to .75" @ 26" 
Vortex Viper PST 6.5-24x50 SFP 
Vortex 30mm rings
Timney 2# trigger with a narrow shoe
Harris Bipod - which I already had.
Holland scope level.

I was able to get down to my Gunsmith with the arrival of the action the first part of September. I was going to take some video of the whole process but I forgot a decent camera. But if you want to take a look at the chambering and threading process go to;
http://www.nodakoutdoors.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=96261

The only part of the process that was different is that he used a bore aligning process used by Gordy Gritters. This process aligns the barrel in the 12 o'clock position. This is because no barrel is truely straight. It provides you with more windage, because the barrel isn't bent toward one side or the other and allows more elevation because the barrel it top dead center vs at the 6 o'clock position which would rob you of elevation. He also had to time the action to align with barrel.

He worked on the barreled action while I was there but I had to get back home so I left it with him tell last weekend when I came through and picked it up. It looked amazing! I was anxious to get started.

Here is the barreled action with the parts disassembled;


My part was to get the rest done;
-Hog out the barrel channel for 0.050" all the way around.
-Bed the aluminum pillars.
-Paint.
-Bed the action.
-Lap the scope rings and mount scope.
-Test fire.

xdeano


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

First things first, i used 40 and 80 grit sandpaper and a 1" dowel to clean out the barrel channel so that i'd have 0.050" all the way around the barrel, this will allow free floating of the barrel.

Second thing was to install the aluminum pillars into the stock so they would be a solid foundation for the action on top and bottom metal on the bottom, without torq on the action or bottom metal. I dremeled out the holes for the pillars slightly larger then they were so they would fit nicely with a little wiggle room for the bedding compound. I taped around the screws so that they would be snug inside the pillars for allignment. 


I wrapped some tape around the barrel near the end of the stock for allignment. 


I used plenty of shoe wax on the action and screws so the devcon would release from the action. Use the release liberally. I then screwed the pillars to the action snugly so they wouldn't shift.


Then i mixed up a bit of Devcon 10110 bedding compound, just enough to do the pillars. I applied the bedding compound to both the inside of the holes in the stock and outside of the pillars.


pillar;


After applying Devcon to both the pillars and stock, i slid them together and used zip ties to cinch the action down as much as they would go. This will squeeze out any extra bedding out of all kinds of places. You can see the extra in this pic. 


Cleanup bedding with alcohol and q-tips. 


Then i let it dry for 24hrs.

Just another top view of the ties.


xdeano


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

Here is what they turned out like after 24hrs. 


closer look


There was some over run that i couldn't get to, so i had to clean it up with a dremel. But i had to hog the action area out again anyhow to do a final complete bedding anyhow.

xdeano


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

I had to shorten the stock bolts a little. Here is a little trick that i've learned over the years with shortening bolts that i'd like to pass on. Get a piece of scrap steel, drill and tap it for the bolt that's going to be shortened. Thread bolt through the steel to allow you to grind on the bolt. Grind all the way down to the scrap steel. This will allow you to unthread the bolt from the steel and it will be a perfectly flat end with nice threads.



xdeano


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

Next was the paint. I used Cerakote Coyote Tan. Cerakote is extremely tough paint, it isn't like krylon from walmart. This stuff take a lot of abuse. In fact i wasn't using gloves when i painted the rifle and it's been 5 days now and it's still on my finger nails, trust me i've tried to get the stuff off. I used a bunch of different solvets. It's easy to spray and it looks really nice when it's done. I didn't take many pictures of this process because I was in a hurry as the paint only has a 45min pot life. I masked off all the areas that i didn't want paint and hung it on my spray rack. sprayed it down with break cleaner a few times. Blew it dry with my air compressor and resprayed it with cleaner, followed by a wipe down with a lint free towel and cleaner. Blew it down again. Then wiped it down with a lint free towel and alcohol. I let it stand and dry for an hour.

Then i shake and screen the paint into my airgun pot. I have it set at 35lbs of air. I'm also using an inline water filter while i'm shooting paint. I don't want much overspray because it's such an expensive paint, i want it all on the rifle. Again, I wish I would have shot more pictures of this process for you guys. Maybe the next go around with another rifle, some time this week if i can get some time to blast it.

here are all the pieces hanging from my rack drying. 


I let it dry for 24hrs before i started to play with it. But here is the first present that was unrapped. I just wanted the bolt coated and not the bolt body. 


another of all the pieces unwrapped.


xdeano


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

Next comes the action bedding process. Here are a few things that you should have on hand for this process;

The Shoe Polish, "release agent" for any metal that you don't want perminetly bonded to anything else. Just a bunch of it!


Again the polish, Devcon 10110 (or similar), long heavy duty zip ties, small container to put rubbing alcohol in, and some rubbing alcohol. 


A lot of Q-tips and some papertowels. 


Then i take and mask off anything i don't want any bedding on with tape or play dough. I fill in everything. I use a pile of shoe polish on everything, bolt threads, small holes even though i've filled it with play dough. I can't stress this part the to much. Use the release agent, they make more.

Here you can see that i've cleaned out the action a bit more, drilled a bunch of holes and what you can't see is that i ground out a little bit more all the way around in the action because when you put it together it'll be resting on those pillars when you cinch it down. 




xdeano


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

I mix up a generous amount of bedding so i don't run out during the process. They're is nothing like running out, when you're on a time line. I just use an old piece of cardboard and a piece of shim or popsickle stick. 


Layer the inside of the action, get all the corners or holes to create a solid base with no bubbles or cracks. Getting 100% contact is what you're after. 


Here is a picture of after clean up using Q-tips and alcohol. Use a bunch of qtips, they're cheap. I just keep a garbage next to me and i use them as a scoop to get all the big stuff out then i wet qtips to clean it up. You should be left with a nice clean edge. I used the action screws to lock the action into the stock. Then i also use zip ties to give it an extra hand. 




Then after waiting 24 hours to cure you can pop the barreled action out of the stock and begin cleanup. I forgot to take a picture of this and the final product, but I will take a picture of the final bedding the next time i open it up. It turned out pretty decent and it takes 2 hands to get it in and out of the stock, it's tight.

xdeano


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

After cleaning up stock and action of any extra bedding, you can install your trigger, bolt stop etc. Set it down into the stock and torque it down to spec.

Now on to the scope. Typically i start by getting the rings on the rail so that i've got some room to move back and forth. I'll lock the bases in to place then break out the lapping bar and some lapping compound and apply to both the inside of the rings and on the bar. Place the lapping bar into the rings, then replace the ring caps and tighten down tell it's snug but allows movement of the bar. Then just give it several stokes tell it feels loose. Then take the caps off so that the same caps go back on the same bases. 


They'll look like this if you're taking anything off. Notice the corners.



Here is a shot of the ring caps, you can see a small amount of wear on both of them.


After that go ahead and mount up your optics and go have some fun.

xdeano


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## zogman (Mar 20, 2002)

Extremely interesting and you are going to have a great rifle. :beer:


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

I forgot to add a picture of the finished product.



The Vortex Viper PST is an experiment to see just how well they are made. I wanted to find out for myself. I like the optics, the glass is actully pretty decent. I can tell the difference at twighlight hours, it seems a lot hazier then my Nightforce at the same time of day. I'll probably have to swap it out anyhow just to make it to a mile. More later on that. 

Thanks again to my Gun Smith for making this all possible.

xdeano


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## KurtR (May 3, 2008)

a guy had a surgeon built 338 norma last year while he was up pheasant hunting it was heavy and cant remember the brake he had on but recoil was not that bad. I am also a recoil wuss I shot it 15 or so times and did not feel beat up. It was a hammer out to 800 as that is all the farther we could set up at the time. Which pills you going to run through it. Will be interested if the pst will hold up to the 338 as there have been some complaints on the hide of some breaking. I have had no problems with the hs on the creed but that is a ***** cat when it comes to recoil


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

I'm planning on giving the Berger 300grn Hybrid a shot as well as the Hornday 285grn HPBT. The Bergers are very hard to get a hold of. The 285's come with high marks with the guys at SnipersHide. I'll be trying a few different powders as well. So far i've just shot 7 rounds of the Ramshot Mag powder down it and it seems like a very dirty powder. I'm also going to give Retumbo and H1000 a try too. The Ramshot was suppose to give the best velocites.

Time will tell on the scope. I will have to switch it out to get to a mile, this I know already.

I'd bet it was a hammer at 800yds, It still has a little over 2600ft/lbs of energy at that range. It has less wind and drop them my 6SLR. I'll post up results of how it shoots when I get that far. Work has been pretty busy lately. But, I'm sure it will shoot better then I can.

xdeano


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

Put together 5 rounds up of 91.5grns of Ramshot Mag with the 300grn Berger Hybrid they averaged 2755fps.
And 5 rounds at 92.0grns of RSM with the 300grn Berger Hybrid that averaged 2838fps.

The whole idea was to check pressure signs on the 92grns and it was just fine.

figureing that i'll come close to my optimum charge right in there. My goal for this round was 2800fps with the 300's.

Next idea is to make up a ladder test with 91.5grns on up to around 92.5grns in .2grn increments.

I'll report back.

xdeano


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## AdamFisk (Jan 30, 2005)

Very nice rifle Dean!!!! Glad you finally got her put together.

The PST leaves a little to be desired in glass eh? That could get expensive!!!


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

Alittle results;

I was having a little tracking issue with the PST, the bullet landed high 1MOA and right 3/4MOA, so I moved it down 1MOA and left 3/4moa and fired another round, it landed darn near the same spot. That's enough.

I ended up switching to my NF off the 6SLR. It's a proven performer and has some awesome glass. Took it back out with some more rounds loaded up. I sighted it in, it was only 6moa right of dead center. corrected and printed a .300", 5 round group. This was with a Hornady 285grn Match behind 91.5grn of Ramshot Magnum at 2800fps. Not exactly the quickest load in the world but my goal was 2800fps and have accuracy. I'll do a bit more tweeking, but i honestly think that it's more opperator error then it is the load. Now to take it for distance.

xdeano


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

Here is a 300 grn berger otm, 223 case, 285 grn hornady match.

Xdeano


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

I decided to do some experimenting with Retumbo and 285's to see if I could get similar velocities and a little cleaner burn. Well I got the cleaner burn, but accuracy is just crap with just about any load that i put in it for some reason. I've ran the numbers through quick load and they come very close to what they come out to in velocity but the accuracy is crap. There are a few more things that I can do but i'll post up some velocities for those that are interested. I've pushed the 285's up to 3114fps with out a problem.

A new thing that i found out about today was the 285grn Amax that has just come out. BC .720 (G1). Might have to give them a try a some point in time.

Xdeano


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## Longshot (Feb 9, 2004)

Nice looking rig, looks like fun!


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

Well just a turkey day update. I took the canon out to 1476yds yesterday morning to see what it would do past a hundred yards. Talk about jumping right into it. I was hitting a rock slightly smaller then a Moa with a 17mph wind at 430-5 oclock. It took 49moa of elevation and 5.5moa of wind to make it there. It is impressive to see what this round is capable of. Hits were easy to see, it takes about 2.35 second or so for the bullet to make down range.

Have a great thanksgiving day guys.

Xdeano


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

I just wanted to give you guys an update on the PST scope that I thought that I was having some issues with on the 338NM.

Well after shooting several more test loads, pushing and pulling the bullets off the lands to tweek the load, it just wasn't having it. Groups started to open up a bit, so i brought the gun home, tore everything apart and put lock-tite on all screws and bolts that I didn't want to move and retorqued everything to spec. I then looked at my suppressor, the ends look just fine. But I took a light after it just to be certain. Sure enough i'd discovered a slight copper streek on the end cap.



I emailed the company, they sent a UPS label and it was off to have a look at. I got a call 4 days later from the quality control guy at the plant. He said that this was only the second time that he's ever seen this with their cans. He said that most of the time if this happens they tend to rip the end cap off or destroy the baffle stack. He said that the can must not have been seated correctly in the EDM machine (lazer cutter), when they align the holes.

What they ended up doing is chopping both ends off the suppressor, put a whole new stack in and rewelded the endcaps on and edm cut the holes. The suppressor is now a half inch shorter. They also cerakoted it in coyote tan, like what I'd painted it in. 
Came out looking good.

It shoots a lot better also. The PST scope had nothing to do with it, because it's on my 6SLR and it's tracking just fine. I think it will stay on there for a while, i kinda like the extra elevation of the NF on the 338.

I'll update on how it groups a little more when it gets out of the -20F category.

xdeano


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

The day was beautiful for extreme long range shooting. I had a friend from college stop by for the weekend and he'd brought along his 300 rum and some 4lb jugs of tannerite. So we set off to the range.

The 4lb jugs of tannerite are about 6"wide and 7" tall. We set it out at 1798yds to see if we could touch it off. We both sent 4 round with no hits. We were within about a foot so we moved up. 1550yds. Basically the same thing happened. We resituated the tannerite and found out that it needed a minimum of 2300fps. We ran some figures and decided we had better get to those velocities. This put us at 860 yds, (20MOA elevation), just short of half mile. Remember the size of the target. 6"x7". With a shot from the 300rum landing within inches the next turn was mine, kaboom!

The conditions of the day were
39f
5mph at 2oclock.
68 humidity
29.76 in
965ft asl
The mirage was kinda bad. At times so bad that we were not able to see the target. There were also 2 shelter belts that were messing with our wind calls. We were having gusts up to 8mph.

I was using the 300grn berger hybrid otm with h1000 @ 2774fps. I can push it quite a bit more but this was an accurate load. 
My friend was pushing a 230grn berger hybrids at just over 3100fps
The rounds were pretty impressive out there at a mile.

I'll get out more now that the weather is starting to turn around. I'll get some steel out a ways and post some pics.

Thought id share.
Xdeano


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