# 10/22 Modification



## Architect414 (Nov 9, 2006)

I have several 10/22's and I was looking at doing some work on one to make it a little more of a target gun. I was going to start by putting an extended mag release on. Then put a automatic bolt release in. I know they don't do much for accuracy but I like them a lot better than the stock ones. I was then thinking of putting in a trigger kit, to reduce the pull of the factory trigger and remove some excess play. I was then told to put in a bolt shock absorber kit, I'm not entirely sure what that is. I was wondering if I could get some peoples opinions on whether or not I'm on the right track or of I should do something else. I'm not looking to spend a lot of money on this project, I'm just looking to make my gun a little more accurate. Thanks for the help. :beer:


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## Plainsman (Jul 30, 2003)

If you look in my photo album you will see a picture of my reworked 10/22. I replaced the sear, but left the factory trigger. I didn't like the after travel so tapped into the trigger guard and put in a set screw. I didn't like the factory trigger plunger or the spring. So I took out the trigger guard set screw that I just put in, and and tapped the trigger itself to line up with the trigger plunger. Because the plunger is at an angle it hangs up. So I put in a lighter spring, and run the set screw back pushing the plunger back to a point it had very little travel. My trigger pull is about ½ factory weight.
You don't need a shock absorber kit, you just need a cheap nylon coated bolt stop pin from Brownell's, or maybe you can get it at Midwayusa.com . They handle most of Brownell's products. It just stops that metal to metal beating from a lot of ammo down range.


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## Burly1 (Sep 20, 2003)

The sky is the limit when you start modifying 10-22's. Shock buff is cheap, and a good idea if you do a lot of high volume shooting. 
I put in a trigger and sear kit, and the difference in trigger pull is well worth the cost, about $60.
I'll caution you on barrels. While an aftermarket barrel will more than likely provide better accuracy, the match chambers are extremely picky about ammo type, and need to be cleaned much more often. The Ruger factory barrel will cycle almost anything, and cleaning is almost never needed, unless of course you want to.
My favorite mod was the Hogue Overmolded stock. That slightly tacky surface has it all over wood, or the slicker/harder synthetics. They have a user friendly profile and are a little heavier. Not a bad thing on a small rifle.
My last little piece of advice is to put the best scope you can afford on top of your rifle. I have one mounted with a straight 3X Leupold, and in spite of the low power, it's a real sweet shooter on striped gophers out to 75 yards, or more if I'm having one of my "steadier" days. Another wears a 1.5-5X Leupold, and it will outshoot an almost identical rifle mounted with a low end 4-12X Simmons all day long. The difference in clarity is substantial. I plan on purchasing a dedicated .22 scope in the future. Probably a middle range fixed power with parallax corrected for normal .22 distances. As useful as it sometimes is, I dislike adjustable objectives on my scopes.
There are many who frequent this site who have light mods, all the way up to race guns. Maybe they will chime in with some good info for you!
Good shooting, Burl


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## Architect414 (Nov 9, 2006)

Thanks for the help, I'm not looking at doing anything with the barrel or stock quite yet. Maybe further down the road. I already have a leupold 3-9 on top of it. I agree the scope makes the gun. And Plainsman that 10/22 looks awesome.


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## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

I'm kinda starting to do the same thing you are right now. I just purchased my first 10/22 the other day and can't believe it wasn't the first 22 i bought cuz i really like it. Right now its stock with the stainless barrel and wood stock. I put set of leupold rings on it and for now a 3-9x32 bushnell that seems to work pretty decent for me. I have put 200 rounds through it so far and for not having any good rest or anything i'm pretty impressed with the groups. At about 40yds with a 5 shot group it will usually touch three shots and have the other two a lil bit away and im sure part of that is my fault. Neways I think the first thing i will play with on it is the trigger because it seems to be way too heavy of a pull after that the sky is gonna be the limit. Im gonna try have some fun with it.

Good luck and have fun

Matt


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## Architect414 (Nov 9, 2006)

ac700wildcat good luck with the customization, this is a rugger that a friend and I put together last summer.










We really didn't keep any stock parts from the gun with the exception of the barrel. I think the stock trigger and bolt assembly are plenty good with a little tweaking, that's why I'm trying to keep them with my current project. Have fun, that's the best part of owning a ruger.


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## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

I guess if i knew how to lighten the trigger on the one I just got I would just stick with it, but i don't know how so a kit is probably in my future. I went out tonight with my old stevens 22 that i just finished bringing back from rust inside the barrel and out and also had just purchased a cheapo tasco 3-9x40 to put on it just so it had something on it. I got it sighted in and then tried for a few 5 shot groups and then a 10 and also did the same with the ruger. The old stevens outshot my new ruger hands down and im blaming that on the trigger pull. The stevens has a pretty light pull on it and as im sure you know the ruger has a pretty hard pull. My best ten shot group with the stevens was 6 shots in a dime and the other four a little ouside the dime. My best ten shot group with the ruger was 9 shots in an area about the size of a silver dollar and one flyer that was about an inch over the rest.


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## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

Here is a pic of each group i was talking about first is the stevens and second is the ruger. Was just bored and shooting for the knot in the plywood on the first pic. Sorry for the bad focus, i couldn't get my camera to do any better.

[siteimg]6384[/siteimg]

[siteimg]6385[/siteimg]

edit to make picture work


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## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

Oh an I'm still dialing in the scopes both are less than a week on the guns.


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## SkiDaddler (Feb 5, 2006)

I just customized my 10/22 this winter. I visited RimfireCentral.com frequently until I knew what to do.

A barrel will give you the most improvement in accuracy. Green Mountain barrels are a great value (Around $110). I got a 16.5" fluted sporter. Avoid Butler Creek barrels.

A Volquartsen or PowerCustom hammer will greatly improve your trigger pull. You won't need to put in an entire "action kit" unless you want to. A hammer will run around $30. There is a down-loadable video on the Volquartsen web site which really helped me when I installed the hammer.

A bolt buffer is cheap and simple. It will increase the life of the rifle and quiet it down a little for around $6.

A mag release will make the clip nicer to load/unload for around $12-$15.

If you can "free-float" the barrel, that will help too. On mine, the barrel is does not touch the stock at all. I used a Dremel tool to take a little off the sides of the barrel channel on a factory synthetic stock. It looks O.K. (if I do say so myself).

I put on a Scheel's 4-12x32 scope ($150). I mounted it on a Weaver type rail with low B-Square rings. I haven't done a final sight in (too cold out), but a quick test proved to be very accurate.

Ammo is one final consideration. It does make a difference. I like Remington Target. For me, it is the right combination of accuracy and price (about $15 a brick).


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## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

Is there something I can do to lighten the trigger pull on my 10/22 without putting in any new parts for now? I plan on purchasing a kit to do this but if i can get decent results I might not. Then mebbe ill have a new barrel sooner.

Thanks
Matt


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## SkiDaddler (Feb 5, 2006)

Yes, it is possible to file the hammer in a very certain way and achieve a lighter trigger pull. But it is very very tricky. If done incorrectly, it could make the gun unsafe and prone to misfiring all by itself. I thought about it and decided against it. There are instructions with pictures here if you want to take a look:

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/sh ... s+hungwell

I know you didn't ask, but I ordered my barrel from http://www.shootersdiscount.com. Very good service and they had the lowest prices on GreenMountain barrels. I got my hammer and bolt buffer from http://www.hawkteckarms.com.



ac700wildcat said:


> Is there something I can do to lighten the trigger pull on my 10/22 without putting in any new parts for now? I plan on purchasing a kit to do this but if i can get decent results I might not. Then mebbe ill have a new barrel sooner.
> 
> Thanks
> Matt


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## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

Hmmmm I think I'll just order Volquartsen kit and be on the safe side. I'm not a gunsmith and i wouldn't wanna screw that up.

Thanks for the websites tho I'll have to check them out.


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## MaxPower (Feb 13, 2007)

I seen that you can take a 2 10/22s and with 2 banana style magz can be converted to a gatling gun type of set up.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... &noImage=0

It is on Cabelas site. If the link does not work put a search in Cabelas site as Ruger 10/22 gatling and you should find it. Now there is a way to spend some fun time on some fruit or cabage. :beer:


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## Sin man (Jul 25, 2006)

heres my 10/22


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