# Digging up traps........



## rangeman (Dec 7, 2006)

What will cause an animal to dig up a trap? Yesterday I found one of my traps dug up and it did not trip. The animal found the bait and moved on. I reset the trap and re-baited and moved a rock just in front of the front jaw. The next morning the trap was tripped and it looks like it was a bobcat from the hair around the set. I was using a 1.75 (brand unknown) that I had picked up at an auction for a bargain. I had the set baited with fish just above the bank of a small stream feeding into a lake. I was mainly thinking ****, although I did have a turkey feather lure tied above the trap. I had two #3 Bridgers on the ridge just above this set. No action until this morning when one of the #3's was dug up also, it did not trip. (also baited with fish). I had to pull all my traps because of returning to work today, and it is to remote a spot to check daily until the weekend. Do cats dig up traps, or just canines? Will an animal getting pinched keep them away from the sets? Or do you think it may be more than one animal? Should I try some new locations but same general area? I seem to have hit a hot spot. I am definitely going to replace the springs on the 1.75's, they are letting anything bigger than a **** get away. I am making alot of cubby sets around hollow logs. and was wondering if the bigger animals are getting leverage from the logs and this is allowing them to pull out? I am anchoring my traps with snare cables and quick connects around small trees, with as little slack as possible, depending on the location. There was only about a foot of slack on the set that failed. I would lose a ton of traps if I tried to stake them, the ground is just to rocky. I am not trying to reinvent the wheel, just trying to find what works. I have moved to a new location each week this season trying not to pressure the animals, hoping to return after a few weeks and hit the hot spots again with nothing but the new #3's. Smitty, Mongo, and everyone thanks for all your help! I have got books ordered and am following your advise. I know my day will come........I can hardly wait!


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## M*F (Nov 3, 2006)

Traps clean? Traps bedded solid? One of those is probably the culprit.


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## rangeman (Dec 7, 2006)

M*F, the traps were all boiled in log wood dye and waxed last week when I bought the new Bridgers. I took them to the car wash and sprayed them with rinse water and then treated them. I am thinking the traps are not bedded solidly enough. You said you pack dirt all around the jaws inside and out. I just plain do not know enough about the mechanics of the traps to know whether this will effect the performance. I have been thinking that the dirt all around the springs would make them slower.......But it works for you, so I will give it a try. I also do not know about the swivels, and how many I should have on a trap and where to put them? I just thought you bought them and they were ready to go........Thanks!


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

Like M*F said, either scent contamination, or "tippy" traps. An animal may very well remember where your trap is, and **** are good about flipping traps without setting them off.

Can't you see any sign at your sets where this is happening? Tracks, scat? I know you mentioned some hair, but are unsure of it's origin.

When I have this happen, I'll usually add an aditional set in the immediate vicinity, but far enough away to prevent entanglemrnt with the other trap. Make a set other than a dirthole, and carefully blend it into the surrounding ground.

A cat or **** can definately use their power to lever themselves out of a trap. Coyote would create more energy in a lunge.

You mentioned a set that "failed" (anchored to a tree w/snare cable), but didn't mention what failed? Would drags work in your area?

Also, next time you buy new traps, make your 1st step in treating them eleminating the factory oil from them. I noticed you powerwashed them at a carwash, which probably didn't remove all the oil. Try running them through a cycle in the dishwasher (be sure & keep the chains from dropping into the sprayer are). Let them develope a light layer of rust, then dye & wax.

In your 2nd post, you think your problem lies in your bedding the traps, then it probably does. You won't slow a trap by bedding it. But you may want to replace the springs, which you also mentioned you know are weak.

Bridgers come with 2 swivels, add one to it. I always replace mine with Crunch Proofs, then put the Bridger swivels on my smaller traps. But they'll work fine for you for a long time. There are few traps that you buy that are "ready to go", unless you buy them from someone who tunes & adjusts them before hand.

Smitty


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## rangeman (Dec 7, 2006)

Smitty, what I meant by failed set was that there was an animal in it but it got away, I have three bobcat rugs and it looked like bobcat hair to me. The log at the set was all tore up like something thrashed around pretty good before making its exit. The area I am working is a forested mountainous area and leaves litter the ground everywhere. The only tracks I ever see are on logging roads, creek beds, etc., very little bare ground around here. Would drags work well in an area like this? There is plenty of brush, rocks, and trees, for them to hang up on. I have got to beef up the springs on my smaller traps first or they may still slip out when they do hang up on something. I was so anxious to get those bigger traps out that I could'nt wait for the rust to form.......You know the feeling....... Are the drags or grapples in the catalog's pretty good? Would I be better off making my own out of re-bar? What are the pros and cons of drags?


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

Let me begin by saying we don't have a cat season here, and I don't trap in areas where drags would be feesible. Most of where I trap is open farm ground, pastures, etc.

As far as making your own drags, I say anytime someone has the facilities & know-how to do so, by all means yes. If not, then I'd feel comfortable in buying some from a reputable dealer. Just be sure to get them heavy enough for what you need. Some trappers use large limbs as drags, which will allow alittle mobility for the catch.

If you're working with already weak traps, I wouldn't be setting close enough to anything to allow a cat to use it to power out of a trap (even with good springs). So you may want to consider relocating your sets.

I would be ordering & replacing springs ASAP if I were you. If you don't things will continue as is. And before next season, I'd considering modifying (baseplating & laminating) my traps, as well as being sure they are well swiveled. I like any advantage I can get in holding catches. Modifications are an investment, like using quality traps. They cost you initially, but are more than paid for at the 1st catch, and after that.....it's all money in your pocket.

Smitty


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## Mongojoe (Nov 2, 2006)

These guys pretty well covered everything....but... let me just toss this in... I would advise aginst makeing **** sets close to where the **** can get ahold of something solid like a tree, a root, large rock, etc... If ***** can get ahold of something solid to pull on, they are bad about powering out of a trap. When I trapped ***** I generally tried to use drags, and only staked solid in places where there was nothing solid handy for the **** to get ahold of.


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## ND trapper (Nov 14, 2006)

Ya know, I would write something here but it's all been said. Good solid advice guys.


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