# How to get my dog to work closer



## MikeyLikesIt (Aug 15, 2010)

Looking for some ideas. I have a GSP that is conditioned to an e collar. He listens great and has been trained to return to me when he hears the beep. My problem is sometimes he likes to work alot farther out than I think he should. If I let him, he will sometimes go out about 500-600 yards. Sometimes I like it that he works such a big area and other times I want him closer. Any suggestions on how I can get him to work closer? Am I unrealistic in thinking that I can train him to do both close and far work? If I can do it any suggestions on how to train him to do both?


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## dakotashooter2 (Oct 31, 2003)

I'm not sure if it was the right way to do it but I had a dog that ranged to far so I started to use the tone to call her back every time she started to get to far. She eventually started to work at the range I had been beeping her. I don't have pointers but it seems 500-600 yards (1/3 mile) is way too far. Gives the birds way to much time to move....


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## ND decoy (Feb 1, 2003)

This is not that hard to fix. The next time that you are in heavy cover (like pheasant cover) when your dog has gotten to far out, hide from your dog. Just sit down (my dogs get very freaked out by this) where you are so your dog comes back to the same area that he last saw you. This will teach your dog to keep better contact with you. It is best to this alone so your dog isn't checking up with one of your hunting partners that has kept walking.

This will also help in lighter cover (grouse cover) that your dog can still see you and hunt big.

When we grouse hunt I let my wirehairs hunt 100 yards or more if they aren't scenting birds, but as soon as they hit a scent they lock on point and hold it. When we are pheasant hunting I want them closer around 50 yards or less. This is all depends on cover and the time of year also, as early season birds hold much better.


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## Bobm (Aug 26, 2003)

you can redirect the dogs range by training him to turn to a toot on a whistle,

Simply use one toot (and Lightest ecollar stim) to get him to travel at 90 degrees. You do this by tooting once then changing your direction 90 degrees left, use an exaggerated hand signal( use your left hand to send him left and your right to send him right so he can see it, ie dont have your arm across your body, they cannot see it).... then walk briskly in the direction you signaled , then when hes swung as far to the left as you want, toot again...use your right arm to point him right then walk briskly in that direction

Eventually he will pick that up quite easily,and you will only need to use the toot and arm signal to direct him, then eventually just the toot most of the time.

but 600 yards is fine in a lot of covers out west mine hit that often even in ND without any problems.

Always use one toot for turning and multiple toots for recall, that way if you want him to recall (and if he isnt reacting right away you can keep hacking him with the whistle) and he will understand the difference


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## ND decoy (Feb 1, 2003)

Bob's answer is the correct one. I over looked the training part and went right to teaching the dog a "lesson".


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