# 264 win mag anyone?



## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

Anyone have one? How do you like it? I'm looking at building a rifle from a Savage action, and this caliber really looks like it could be what I want in my next rifle. I'll be using it too hunt, but will also shoot a few targets with it. It would mainly be a deer rifle for whitetails around ND, but I intend to head to Montana next year for a mule deer hunt.

I'm really looking at this caliber because it seems like it would be a pretty hard hitter with a really good trajectory. Also, I don't want to have something that everyone else has and the 264 will fit the bill. I've thought about getting a 7mm mag, 300 mag, or one of the other 6.5 calibers like the 6.5-06 or 6.5-284, but then this one caught my eye while looking through my load books.

I know I'll be looking at a 26" barrel to really take advantage of the cartridge and thats fine with me. I have other rifles I can use if I don't want to lug the bit of extra weight around. I'd be going with a stainless action and barrel. I'm not sure what barrel make that I would go with yet. There seem to be a tone of different custom barrel makers out there. Are there any that seem to be better than others, or maybe some that I should stay away from? Any input would be great!!

Thanks,
Matt


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## Woodser (Sep 3, 2009)

Do not own one, if fact do not own or shoot any of the magnums cartridges, but did help a shooting buddy work up a load for one many moons ago. It was a difficult round to find a good load for. Took many hundreds of rounds, many different bullets, several powders, and months of experimentation to find a load he was happy with. After this experience, I would have to recommend the 6.5-284 instead. Just MHO.


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## rd51 (Jan 13, 2007)

I've had a number of them since the late 60's. I've never shot the 140 grain bullets in any of them, instead the 129 Hornady, 120 Sierra, and 100 Nosler ballistic tips. The 129's hold together real well. My experience with the 120 Sierra is that they are vey accurate, but pretty detructive on deer in close, 200 yards or less. The 100 Ballistic tips were like dynamite, practically cutting a coyote in half. I'm old school and shoot mainly the flatbase spitzers in nearly all of my rifles, so I can't comment on other bullets. My bullet of choice is the 129gr Hornady, but that's just me. I was sold on an early Winchester ad; "The 264 Winchester Magnum, it makes a helluva noise and packs a helluva punch". Also an article by Dan Flores in a 1970's Handloader Digest on loading for the 264; I still have the article. Good luck on your choice, you won't be dissapointed int he 264


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## BKeith (Oct 25, 2009)

How much shooting are you planning to do with it?

A 7mm Mag is bad enough on barrels, that's gonna go through one like a country boy through a bowl of grits. With the velocities those 6.5's are gonna be flying, you will probably be very lucky if you get 1,000 rounds down the barrel before the accuracy starts going south. That's down a stainless barrel, a carbon steel barrel is going to be less.


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## rd51 (Jan 13, 2007)

If you're going to use it for deer hunting, I wouldn't be too concerned about shooting the barrel out. Early commercial barrels were said to get about 1500 rounds and at that rate with a box of shells a year; you'd be looking at 75 years. I have a Douglas barrel on one and a factory one. There are many good barrel makers out there, I would just stay away from the cheap ones. I have a Shilen on a 22-250 and they are good also. I think the best advice I could give is to find a reputable gunsmith and take his advice on barrel mfg. I like a #4 weight barrel as I have them on a 25-06, 264, 22-250 and 6MM Rem. I can't give much advice on powder choice other than H4831 as that's all I use in the 264 and accuracy is good for me. As earlier, good luck.


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## BKeith (Oct 25, 2009)

Check with LA Precision, he does excellent work and listen to what rd51 said about sticking the top quality barrels. Mr Roscoe could advise you on which way to go with that. If the does everything, he guarantees .5 moa on three shot group and it don't cost that much more to do it right.

Just be sure to understand, don't send it and expect it back very soon. Anybody that can get it back to you quick, does not have the reputation to do it good. The good guys are booked and it will take a while, some over a year, but if you wait, it will be worth it.


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## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

Thanks for all the comments. I checked out the LA Precision website and learned quite a bit going through the action blueprinting section. I never really knew what blueprinting involved, but I do now.

I was figuring on about 1000 rounds for barrel life, but have read that I might be able to stretch that out a bit by using slower burning powders, keep the barrel very clean, and making sure the barrel doesn't get hot. I pretty much already keep my rifles pretty clean and usually allow at least 5 minutes between shots at the range. I'd probably end up running 200 rounds a year through the rifle, but might not shoot it quite that much after I have a decent load developed for it.

I was looking through a bunch of the barrel makers websites and found that Shilen actually makes Savage replacement barrels that are chambered, crowned, and ready to be installed. I think I might go that route. Then I should be able to do the installation myself and not have to send the action out. I'm not looking for a totally custom rifle, so this option works for me.


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## BKeith (Oct 25, 2009)

I've never owned a Savage but I would check first. I would think you would need the headspace guages to do the swap yourself.


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## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

Yes, I'll need headspace gauges or at least a go gauge. I'll also need a barrel nut wrench and either a action wrench or a barrel vise. Other than that there doesn't seem to be much to doing it. The shilen barrel will cost me $335.


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## rd51 (Jan 13, 2007)

If you go with Shilen, pay the extra and get an ultra match barrel. I did that on my 22-250 and it wasn't much more; can't remember how much. Those Shilens have bores as smooth as glass; you'll see when you clean it. Sounds like you're on the right track


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## KRAKMT (Oct 24, 2005)

Built a 264 several years ago and took bunch o deer/antelope last year. 
I sent it back to the gunsmith to lengthen the throat for the longer barnes ttsx. It seems to hit hard and is different. Ballistics manuals show it similar to the 270 but I enjoy it much more.
K


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## Wyomingpredator (Oct 16, 2007)

I would suggest either 6.5x 284, or 6.5-06 both are ballistically similar. As for barrel life keep the speeds a little below max, dont heat up the barrel, and keep it clean and it will pry shoot darn near forever, I have a 260 that I have shot atleast 1500 rounds out of and the accuracy is as good today as ever, my dad has a 7mm mag that has seen at least 2000 rounds and the barrel id just fine. Most people think that the barrel is shot out but if it is cleaned real good, and I mean run solvent down the barrel let it soak about 10 minutes then a patch and do this untill the pactch comes out clean which could be a while the gun could come back to life. I bought a 25-06 from a guy that said he had shot 3000 rouds and the barrel was shot and cleaned it like that, it took almost all winter with a couple passes a day and it shoots 1/2 inch groups jst fine


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## KurtR (May 3, 2008)

from what i have read cleaning the barrell to much and when not needed does just as much harm as getting it really hot. A guy who shoots alot told me if you spend more than 10 minutes cleaning your barrel it is to long. He goes about 1000 rounds between cleanings. that is with a .260.


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## Savage260 (Oct 21, 2007)

> if you spend more than 10 minutes cleaning your barrel it is to long.


DAMN!!! What am I doing wrong??? I usually spend 10-15 min a day for 2-3 days to get a barrel down to spotless. I go through patches like crazy, and it doesn't seem to matter which rifle I am cleaning. Almost all of them have been properly broken in, so what gives???

I use Hoppes 9 and Barnes CR-10, should I change that up?


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## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

In the research that I've been doing for this project, I've read through a lot of the premium barrel makers cleaning instructions. Most of those instructions said to keep the barrel clean to keep it in good condition. I don't think cleaning often hurts a thing as long as you are doing it the right way by using a bore guide, one piece fitted rod, cotton flannel patches, and a good cleaner that isn't left in the barrel long enough to do it any harm.

As far as the guy shooting the 260 and going 1000 rounds between cleanings, if it works for him thats great, but I cringe if I don't get a cleaning in at least every 75-100 rounds. I usually try to clean after every range trip in which I run 20-50 rounds through my rifles every time.

I just cleaned my 25-06 the other day using plain old Hoppes number 9 and it took me three ten or fifteen minute soaks, then an overnight soak, followed by some foaming bore cleaner for 15 minutes, and then another patch of hoppes down the barrel and let that sit another 15 minutes to make sure all the copper was gone. I know its ok to leave some copper in the barrel, but if I'm going 75-100 round between cleanings, I'd just assume that I start out with a completely clean barrel again.

Thanks for the suggestion of the 6.5-284 and the 6.5-06. I did consider those two rounds, but I think I'm pretty much set on the 264. For me its something different that not a lot of people have and that's what I'm looking for. I don't plan on trying to push a 140gr bullet to 3200 or 3300 like some people do. 3000-3100 will be just fine for me as long as it produces acceptable accuracy. I might actually go with the 120gr or 130gr tsx for hunting ammo.


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## Woodser (Sep 3, 2009)

Hoppes Elite is my current cleaner of choice. It actually conditions the bore as you use it. It is an offshoot of the USAF search for a better cleaner for it's fighter jets. Squirt a little on your fingers, wipe it off, then rub your fingers together and you can feel the residual slickness. It also does not change the first shot impact point, which I find amazing. I leave a thin film in the barrels all the time.

For deep cleaning or stubborn copper deposits, use Hoppes Benchrest #9.
And overnight soak will really break loose the crud. Instead of three days, it take one. I use Benchrest #9 exclusively during the break-in process.

I do not believe too much cleaning will hurt a bore, but improper cleaning will ruin one fast. Like wildcat says, use a rod that is softer than the steel (I use brass and plastic coated stainless), use brass brushes (never stainless and bronze phosphor only in a pinch), good patches, and always use a bore guide. If you do not have a bore guide for every action length and caliber, get one for each. MTM makes cheap plastic bore guides that work fine and cost little.


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## Woodser (Sep 3, 2009)

laite319 said:


> I use Hoppes 9 and Barnes CR-10, should I change that up?


Try some Benchrest #9. One day is all it takes. Soak a brush in BR #9, make 10 strokes, do this twice, let sit for an hour, dry patch it clean. Then soak a patch in BR #9, push it threw in small taps on the rod handle to leave as much cleaner in the bore as possible, do this twice 30 minutes apart, then let it sit overnight and dry patch again. It will be clean.

Be sure to clean the brush of all traces of BR #9, as it will eat the brush up.
I use automotive brake cleaner for the task.


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## Savage260 (Oct 21, 2007)

Oh, forgot to mention I don't use brushes only patches on jags.


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## Woodser (Sep 3, 2009)

I won't clean any rifled firearm without the use of a brush, as it will take much longer to break loose the deposits. A brass brush will not harm the bore or rifling, or even the muzzle, since it is much softer than any part it touches. Without a brush, you will be much longer at getting the gunk out, as you are seeing. And you most likely are not getting the deposits in the junction between lands and grooves out when you do clean.


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## Savage260 (Oct 21, 2007)

I will have to give the brushes a try. I have some but after reading stuff on 6mmBR I decided to follow the advice of some of those folks and not use brushes. I can't shoot that well so I have nothing to lose.


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## Woodser (Sep 3, 2009)

I know there is a concern about brushes damaging crowns. This was started by BR guys using stainless steel brushes, which WILL damage a crown with regular use. If you are concerned, pass the brush only one way in the bore, removing it before withdrawing the rod. On new or highly accurate rifles, I will do that myself. However, with production rifles with limited accuracy potential to start with, unless you have had your rifles recrowed by a precision gunsmith, there is little chance of doing damage with the right brush and technique. IF you have had the rifles recrowned in a target crown, do not drag a brush over it in the reverse direction. It will take the sharp edge off the crown over time. A long time, I will add, a very long time. Years

Back in my younger days I shot in local BR competitions. No one there was afraid to use a brush on their bores, and every single competitor dry brushed and dry patched their bores between rounds.


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## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

I rarely use brushes on my rifles anymore. I usually let the solvents do their job and use a tight fitting patch/jag combination. I do see where the occasional use of a bronze brush could be good. For example, I acquired a used 1911 last spring and it had a ton of carbon buildup in the barrel. No matter what bore cleaner I used or how long I let it soak, I couldn't get the carbon buildup out of the edges of the rifling. I ended up having to scrub the heck out of that thing with a brush and a plastic pick to remove the carbon. I easily got all the copper out, but the carbon was a pain. Most of the barrel mfgs suggest using a bronze brush during the cleaning process, so it must not do any damage.


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## KurtR (May 3, 2008)

Go over to snipershide.com alot of info on the over cleaning trend and the myths of barrel break in. If your accuracy is not falling off why would you clean it. And remember alot of that stuff you think you are cleaning out is steel from the barrel.


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## hagfan72 (Apr 15, 2007)

Back on subject, 63gn of 4831 under a 120gn Nosler BT is DEADLY on whitetail and speed goats!


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