# weasel box



## gunther274

how do i make a good weasel box, what kind of wood, and what is the best trap to put in the box?
thanx 
gunth


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## weasle414

If you're trying to trap me, a good fridge box on its side with a *pizza inside, double pepperoni, 16 - 18". That should be enough pizza that I'll stick around for a while.

If you're speaking of the furry little critter that's like a ferret, I'm lost. Sorry. 

*No dominos!*


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## Trapper62

Any scrap wood or plywood will work.

Make it 6"x6"x12" with a solid bottom, attach the top with a screw on one end so the top will pivot and than drill a hole one the other end of the top through into the one side to drop a nail in to hold it shut but yet allow you access.

Cut a 2" hole in one end as close to the top as you can.

Here are a couple pictures of a typical setup.

The Steup










The results









Hope that helped!


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## M*F

Great pics t62. Heres a couple more.


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## rifle6

what type of trap is best used inside the box.
the one pic looked like a big ol rat trap?
i ve got a chicken killer i need to take care of. it is just tearing off the heads.


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## M*F

Ive tried the rat "snap traps" and wasnt very pleased with them. I switched over to old 1.5 and #2 coils and have been much happier.


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## rifle6

ok do i just bed the trap as normal inside the box.
basicly a bait hole set inside a box?


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## Trapper62

I use a #1.5 longspring because I want the animal dead ASAP and that trap catches the weasel across the chest in a fashion similar to a bodygrip trap.

I market them to the taxidermy trade and don't want them w/ zero damage or staining, if at all possible.

A #1 will work but a #1.5 has a little better spring and gaurantees a little higher catch.


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## rifle6

sorry.
but how do i bed it and how far from the opening?
just before the bait. like normal or just insid ethe door.
what about 110 coni placement?


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## M*F

Weasels arent trap shy, I stick the trap as close to the opening as I can. I want to get him as soon as he jumps through the hole, resulting in a catch high on the shoulder like trapper62 described.


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## rifle6

ok. i'll try it out. :lol:

how bout a 110 coni? i put two holes in my box one 8 inches high and on the other side one about 4 inches high on the low side i put a 110 but how do i secure it so it stays in place as the critter hits and hopefully fires the trap?
on the high side i have a bridger 1.65 4 spring OFF set i baited it with a little LDC and some blood and discount beef heart. the chunck o beef is hanging from the lid. i also scattered a few feathers from the chickens it's been killing around and inside the box. also put a little hay,straw on the floor.

sound ok?


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## Trapper62

6, you are making weasel trapping way to difficult.

Set your box on sign, throw a little bait ( i use chicken liver because it is bloody). Put it on a little piece of wax paper so that when it freezes and you need to change the bait it isn't frozen to the box.

Set you LS trap tight to the inside of the box right below the opening and you r done. Next time the weasel comes through you will more than likely have it caught.

A 110 will not work, yes you may occationally catch one in it but a weasel is to agile to hit the trigger wires.

Use a LS or a rat trap.

If you use a box with holes on each end make the box longer and put a divider in it.

You can also put grain in the box to attract mice to the box this will attract weasels also.

The bridger will distroy your weasel - I use the Bridger 1.65 offset for coyotes I also don't think that a weasel will be heavy enough to trip the pan on a 4 coiled trap!

Good Luck!


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## rifle6

thanks

ya i agree on the 1.65. i have filed it a little it is crisp but a little strong

i will make the nessisary corections and see what happens

much thanks


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## Lovetrappin

Best way and easy way to catch a weasel is to put a piece of meat, perferably fresh, on the trigger of a 110 or 120 conibear. Works every time as long as there's a weasel around. Saves the time of building boxes. Save the trees.


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## LAtrapper

i'd never heard of that. do you think it could work for mink as well?

Beau


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## charleyspiller

As a California trapper, I have major restrictions on using conibear or bodygripping traps for anything. For some reason, when the bunnyhuggers pushed through the last anti -trapping law, they left a small loophole for us.
"Common rat and mouse traps are not considered body-gripping traps"
That means, I think, that I can trap weasels with a box trap with a common rat trap in it. I would hope that someone would market a beefier "common rat trap", that I could use for mink...
How bout it folks, is a common rat trap big enough for mink, or will someone sell me a conibear of the right size labeled as a "common rat trap" to satisfy the bunnyhuggers?

sheesh :eyeroll:


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## Feather Freeks

1/10's are DEADLY for weasels. Get a bracket for your 1/10 so u can hang it pependicular on the tree, place it about 6-7" off the ground. on the trip wire on the 1/10, put a good sized chunk of rabbit. (because as all true trappers know rabbit doesn't dry out) rabbit is good because it's one of the weasels main prey. the weasel gets snapped because he pulls on the meat to get it down, he doesn't just pass through it. I don't even know how manny weasels i caught like this, it's absolutely the best way to get weasels.


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