# Steel plate targets



## born to hunt (Mar 13, 2002)

Hi all- First post on part of the Forum-

My question is this- Does anyone our there have experience with "gong" type targets while handgunning? I had made for me three targets composed of an 8" round steel plate (1/2" thick) that hag by two chains between two posts. These would natrually be placed in front of a large earth burm on my target range.

safety? 
durability?

Any thoughts would help!


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## Remington 7400 (Dec 14, 2005)

Stay atleast 20 yards away, always a chance of lead splatter, and don't use FMJ.


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## SDHandgunner (Jun 22, 2004)

Yep lead splatter is always a possibility. But like Remington 7400 said if you do not use Full Metal Jacket Bullets and stay at least 20 yards away you should be OK.

I have used similar GONGS for years and find they offer good practice. However you didn't mention what Calibers you are going to be using on these steel gongs. Some of the larger caliber rounds will indeed crater the plates. I used to load 180gr. Remington Jacketed Hollow Points for my 7 1/2" Ruger Redhawk to a muzzle velocity of a little over 1800 FPS. When those 180's hit the 3/8" plate I was using they would create a crater to a depth of over half the thickness of the plate at 50 yards.

Good luck, have fun and get out shooting.

BTW Welcome to the Forums.

Larry


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## born to hunt (Mar 13, 2002)

I will use .45 ACP 230 FP at about 800 fps (Gold Cup), .44 mag w/ 240 gr at about 1400 (SW629 8 3/8 Stainless), and regular .22 LR. I figure i can cut new plates if they get too beat up.

Thanks for the welcome!


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## MRN (Apr 1, 2002)

You can shoot those for the rest of your life with pistol amo and not make a dent in them (rifle ammo will divot them, 5.56 green tip will go through...) Shooting the chains off will be the durability problem.

If you wear glasses and a hat you can move up to 20 - 25 feet - practice at a distance where you can practice speed & movement too. You won't be doing double taps at 20 yds on an 8 inch target. Because the gongs pivot at the top the spray will go downwards mostly (until they get pitted). I shoot jacketed ammo too. You might get hit with a shard of copper once in few thousand, but it'll be small and traveling slow. Barely leave a scratch. Back spray is more common with rotator targets that pivot below the target.

Have fun,
M.


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## Dave_w (May 25, 2005)

No offense, just an observation on shooters in general, and particularly practical pistol buffs.

Step One: Buy/make cool reactive target made out of hard material.

Step Two: Shoot sh*t out of cool reactive target made out of hard material.

Step Three: Question universe, Is this safe?

Step Four: Go shooting anyway.


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## Remington 7400 (Dec 14, 2005)

:laugh: :thumb: :rollin:


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## farmerj (Jun 19, 2004)

Go to a local heavy equipment dealer and see if they will let you have some scrap cutting edges. It's of a harder brinnell like armor and will work a lot better than regular steel.

If FMJ's are causing pockets, it's to soft. Even with JHP, eventually you will have a jacket come back on you.


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## MRN (Apr 1, 2002)

Dave_w said:


> No offense, just an observation on shooters in general, and particularly practical pistol buffs.
> 
> Step One: Buy/make cool reactive target made out of hard material.
> 
> ...


Engage.
Assess.
Re-engage.

Sounds reasonable.

M.


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## 1911guy (Feb 24, 2007)

1/2" mild steel will be durable but don't expect too much reaction from it as it will be very heavy. I have 3 8" square plates made from 1/4" mild steed and have tried to kill them with 2500 rounds of 230 gr fmj ammo from my 45 and they are still hanging from their rubber mudflap mounts. the 1/4" steel is more reactive than the heavier plates and so far have proven durable enough. My 9mm HI-point carbine will dent the plate with fmj loads but do dents really matter? One plate met my AK-47.... now I have to have a new plate made so I can do it again because the 7.62 just ripped through the plate like butter (kinda like shooting out the star at the carnival) Fun, Fun, Fun. I have put more rounds into my steel plates than into paper because of the convenience of not going down range to see where you hit the target...just paint the plate white and you can see every shot...when done repaint and reload.


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## neb_bo (Feb 3, 2007)

i know this threads a little old, but heres a suggestion. if you have more made, dont use chain, have them mount them with a peice of pipe over a peice of shaft for a swivel, with a peice of flat iron down to the gong. then they can angle the plate back a few degrees. i just made a stand with 2 6" and 1 4" gong. i used sructural tube for the frame, and a peice of shaft across the top. the gongs are 5/8, and do fine with pistol ammo, and hold up alright at long range with 5.56. i have hit the frame a couple times with 357, and it actualy doesnt bugger it up to bad.


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## Plainsman (Jul 30, 2003)

farmerj said:


> Go to a local heavy equipment dealer and see if they will let you have some scrap cutting edges. It's of a harder brinnell like armor and will work a lot better than regular steel.
> 
> If FMJ's are causing pockets, it's to soft. Even with JHP, eventually you will have a jacket come back on you.


Ya, I made a six inch target out of one inch scrapper blade. It's so heavy 300 gr 44 mag don't make it swing. Even my 300 mag at 100 yards will not make it swing. No craters from 300 mag either. It was overkill, and I need to make a half dozen lighter targets. Hunt1 purchased a nice one for up to 30-06. Even at 600 yards my 300 mag makes that one spin like a fan.


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## neb_bo (Feb 3, 2007)

you can get cutting edge in 1/2 x 6, or 3/4 x 6 or 8 if you want something lighter, and wider. youll probably have to buy new stuff though, ive never replaced one that had more than 4 or 5" left.


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