# Reloading dies.....who makes the best ones



## Jaybic

Hello,

I am having my Rem 700 rebarreled with a new Kregier barrel in .308 and the action all trued and printed...ect..ect..."the works"...and I have to buy a set of .308 dies.

Being that my rifle is now a semi-custom job, I want to maximize its potential by going from a "hunting grade" level of reloading to a more precision/benchrest level and I am looking to find out what type/brand of dies I should buy. I have always used just basic RCBS dies and I dont know much more about it than that.

What kind of dies might you guys suggest?

I heard good things about Redding, Forester, Wilson and RCBS Comp dies and also about "neck bushing" dies but I have no idea what they are other than alot more expensive. Is the extra worth it over regular RCBS or Hornady dies?

Plainsmen,

I also heard you mention X-sizer dies so you dont have to trim. Where do they fall in all this?

Thanks for your time and I am open to any and all ideas that any of you might have on dies question or any other tips for hyper-accurate/competition reloading.

Thanks again,

:beer:

Jaybic


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## Tyrant

I have had very good luck with Redding.

Have both neck and full length, prefer the full length for alighnment issues.

Norm


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## darkgael

I own and use dies by RCBS, Redding, Lyman, Lee. Frankly, I have not noticed any difference in functionality. They all work. Some manufacturers will have a die for less $ in a caliber or offer a neck die that others won't. That's when I pick and chose. For ex., Lyman dies for the .416 Rigby are substantially less money than from RCBS. Redding makes a marvelous selection of neck dies that other makers don't offer. 
For the basics, I buy Lee dies and they work as well as any for less money.
Pete


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## DuaneinND

No matter which brand of die you decide to buy, a more important part of the equation is a "run out" indicator. It is the only way to measure if your dies are "true". Sometimes a quarter turn of a die can make a significant difference on the quality of the finished product. Sinclair, Holland and others make a quality tool.


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## Jaybic

Duane,

I think I seen them in my Sinclair Intl catalog. Is that the thing with the dial indicator and the cradle thing that the case lays in to make sure it doesnt woble and is square and straight? I think RCBS makes one called a Casemaster Gauging Tool. I am just making sure I am thinking of the correct gadget.

I have to admit I am not really sure what it does or how that works in relation to the dies question tho.

Do you know anywhere you could direct me to learn more about this level of reloading?

Thanks to all of you for the responses. It all helps. :beer:

Jaybic


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## Plainsman

Jaybic, I use X dies for calibers that I might load 2000 rounds a year. I would guess they are not as accurate as regular dies, but my light barrel 22-250 shoots under ½ inch with those loads, and my 223 DPMS shoots 1/3 inch with the same load. My 22-250 XR100 Rangemaster shoot ¼ inch groups with X die loads.

Most of my dies are RCBS. Recently I purchased the Redding deluxe set which is just the full length and neck sizing die together. Purchased as a set saves you about $20. I have not been able to tell the difference in my RCBS and Redding dies in my 308 yet. It is also shooting ¼ inch groups with Blackhills match brass, Federal match primers, Ramshot TAC powder, and 168 gr SMK. I have not put the Lapua Silver Scenars on paper with that powder yet.

I have never got into bench rest, but ¼ inch is good enough for me. I have a 300 Win Mag that groups between ¼ and 1/3 inch, but on good calm days it often shoots under .2 inches with a best group of .14 inch. That is reloaded with RCBS dies. I am shoving a 165gr Triple X at 3450fps and 165 gr Nosler Ballistic Tips at 3350 fps. I don't know what I will do when that rifle wears out. Good luck getting another factory rifle that shoots that good.

I use my old aluminum arrow straightener for a bullet run out gauge. It has four ball bearings and a .001 gauge.


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## johngfoster

I think Plainsman is right in that most dies should do a good job. However, if you use a Redding (or other equivalent) bushing die, this should cut back on the amount the neck is worked each time you resize, and this will extend the life of your brass. Doubt it will do much for accuracy though. I have a .308 project being built right now. My gunsmith recommends Redding FL bushing die with the bushing 2 thou tighter than a loaded case neck. In order to determine what size bushing you need, load an empty case with a bullet and measure the outside diameter of the neck, then subtract 0.002" and you should have the size bushing you need. Or you can measure neck wall thickness, multiply by 2 and add 0.308" to get the total outside neck diameter of the loaded round. I don't think this is as accurate though.

The other thing that is critical is seating the bullet straight. He recommends getting a Wilson chamber-style bullet seater die. This is a hand die. It will ensure the bullet is seated parallel to the axis of the case and bore. I think any of the competition style seater dies should do the same thing, just maybe not as well--I don't know about this though.

Then you can get into neck turning, but that is a whole other subject...


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## Jaybic

Johngfoster,

It sounds like we both have a similar project rifle being built. What kind of .308 are you building?

I am going to stop and pick up an RCBS casemaster gauge thing on the way home. As I understand it, this thing is a way to check the precision of your dies. I still am not sure about the dies so I am gonna go with the "you get way you pay for" theory and get a set of Redding dies I think.

I am kinda thinking about getting the neck turning stuff but maybe I stick to just one bit of voodoo at a time before I have everything screwed up. :beer:

Thanks again,

Jaybic


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## Jaybic

Well,

After much research, I ordered a set of Forster Benchrest dies with the micrometer seater die so I should be set. It sounds like they have a reputation as an excellent die and hopefully that will show up on paper.

Now I have bullets(110 gr Vmax and 168 gr SMKs and cases and primers all ready to go. Now if the dang rifle would just show up!

Thanks again everyone for the tips and advice. :beer:

Jaybic


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## DuaneinND

Jaybic, I think here are a couple of books in the Sinclair catalog that would answer many questions.
The Forester dies should work very well. As mentioned the seating of the bullet is important and most dies will make ammo capable of under .5moa.
The hunt for the best accuracy can be alot of fun and sometimes a little frustration thrown in for good measure.
Good luck in your quest.
The people at Sinclair will give good advice on which products they sell will aid your quest and on the use of the tool.


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## johngfoster

Jaybic said:


> Johngfoster,
> 
> It sounds like we both have a similar project rifle being built. What kind of .308 are you building?
> 
> I am going to stop and pick up an RCBS casemaster gauge thing on the way home. As I understand it, this thing is a way to check the precision of your dies. I still am not sure about the dies so I am gonna go with the "you get way you pay for" theory and get a set of Redding dies I think.
> 
> I am kinda thinking about getting the neck turning stuff but maybe I stick to just one bit of voodoo at a time before I have everything screwed up. :beer:
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Jaybic


Jaybic, sounds like we are on the same track. Mine is a Rem 700 action being blue-printed, Mike Rock 5R barrel, McMillan A5 stock in desert camo, Leupold M4 3.5-10 LR/T M3 w/ TMR reticle, Badger rings, base and M5 bottom metal. I have all the dies, bullets (168 & 175gr SMK), powder (Varget), primers (CCI BR2) & brass (Lapua). Being put together by Randy Melvin from Bull Mountain Rifles here in Billings. The big hold-up is the stock and barrel. Both are back-ordered due to military contracts needing to be filled first.

I'm also about to spring for some neck-turning stuff, but thinking of starting with my 22-250 first. I just jumped on a Redding comp seater die for my '250, so we'll see how that changes things. Post some pics when you get it in.


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## BluebillSlayer84

I met you at the rifle range today and you showed me your chart for using the milldot system. Could you please tell me were you got yours or were I could get one. Thank you for your time.


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## horst loegler

one reason for building a custom rifle is so you can chamber it tigher(in the neck.2 thou. expansion) redding dies (fl resize,s type control the amount of crush on the neck( you chose the sizing button). result,less work on the brass = longer case life & less run out. forster make a beautiful seater die,a sleeve holds the case in alignment as the bullet is seated/same as redding seater.reloading now becomes easier due to less effort on the leever. win win situation !!!


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## mrb

redding or rcbs compition dies, for the .308 cannot be beat!


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