# InLine Shooters only, Traditional shooters need not apply



## Powerfisher (Jan 28, 2009)

I would like to start by saying that due to circumstances beyond my control (cranium inserted into rectum) I may have been a bit out of line with the title and demeanor of my previous statements.  
I have broke into Muzzleloading recently and I would like to start my own post about inline shooting. I have a lot of questions pertaining to inline BP rifles.


----------



## Chuck Smith (Feb 22, 2005)

Glad to hear you joined the fun of Black Powder shooting.

Ask any questions.


----------



## Savage260 (Oct 21, 2007)

I would have to say 99% of the time the folks on here are very friendly. Even if you get into an arguement with them the next post many times is like it never happened.

I wouldn't try to exclude the traditional crowd. Those guys really know their stuff and can offen times give advice that is good for any type of ML.

As for me, I only shoot inline, but I don't really know diddly squat about them yet. I will be glad to share what little I do know if it will help.


----------



## Plainsman (Jul 30, 2003)

I shoot both Powerfisher. If you push your load in from the front they are all much the same to me. Nothing magic about an inline. I like them all. Now I need a flintlock.


----------



## Powerfisher (Jan 28, 2009)

Thanks folks for your positive, constructive input. I have been getting roughed up a bit on other threads and I welcome the frendliness you all have offered. I will agree that the traditional shooters have lots of good knowledge to offer but I seem to have a bullseye on me that I havent been able to remove yet. My last question was about the Sabots comming sepreatly from the bullets and all I got was wise cracks and no help. Since then, I found out the answer. Its because T/C, Horandy and other bullet manufactures purchase the sabots from another company and are recieved in pre-packaged amounts. So rather than unpack tthem and then repack them in another container with the bullets already seated in the sabots, they just ship them in one container seperate from the bullets. It does not jeapordise the integrity of the bullet or sabot. You can store them any way you like and it wont matter. I thought that maybe they were shipped seperate because the bullet streched the sabot and damaged the integrity. This is not the case. Thanks again.


----------



## Powerfisher (Jan 28, 2009)

OK, I have a T/C Omega Z5. Is this rifle able to handle FFFg BP? I can not find any text on it. Is it true that FFg will crumb up a bit and settle at the bottom of the container? If so, when you get to the bottom of the container does the measure of volume change? Does FFFg have the same crumbing results? Somebody told me that the more you learn about how to play golf, the harder it is to play. That never made sence to me untill last Christmas when I got my new rifle. I have been learning more and getting more confused about MLing every day. IIIIIIIIIII LIKE IT! 8)


----------



## barebackjack (Sep 5, 2006)

Powerfisher said:


> OK, I have a T/C Omega Z5. Is this rifle able to handle FFFg BP?


Yes.



> Is it true that FFg will crumb up a bit and settle at the bottom of the container?


Yes.



> Does FFFg have the same crumbing results?


Yes. But to a lesser extent.

I shoot only FFFg grade black powder in .50 and .54 cal MLers. I do this for three main reasons.

1. Residue. FFFg leaves less of it, and its finer, easier to clean.
2. More shots per pound. When going from FFg to FFFg you should *decrease* your load 10-15%. This means, more shots per pound. 
3. Only have to have one type of powder for a flintlock for main charge and priming charge.

If the manual says the max load for a particular rifle is 100 grains of FFg, than its 90-95 grains in FFFg.

FFFg grade powder exhibits velocities and pressures more similar to the substitute powders. So if your shooting 90 grains of pyrodex, than you should be good with the same of FFFg.

Of all the powders ive shot, FFFg real black powder cleans the easiest.


----------



## Savage260 (Oct 21, 2007)

Damn, bareback, can't you read the subject line? :stirpot:


----------



## barebackjack (Sep 5, 2006)

Woops! :gag: :lol:


----------



## Powerfisher (Jan 28, 2009)

HEY! I ate my crow and it wasnt so good.  Wont eat it again.....everybody is welcome. I have removed my cranium from my rectum and I have taken all my medz. :beer: 8) I apreciate ALL information from ANYBODY! :eyeroll: 8)


----------



## alleyyooper (Jul 6, 2007)

Biggest problem most buyers of inlines have at first is that stupid 150gr. Magum charge thing. More times than not if they have a 50 cal up to a 58 it will shoot much better with a load ranging from 80gr, to 120gr. 
My 50 cal Remington 700 loves 80 gr. Of T7 and 100 gr. of APP and back to 80gr, with Gorex.
The Remington 700 54cal likes 100 GR. of every thing except APP. It throws any bullet all over the place with it.
The plains rifle (rock lock) likes 85gr. of about any thing.

They also get hung up on the pellet thing being easier to use in the field so they paper punch with it. Nothing could be farther from the truth as making up quick loads is real easy to use in the field and loose any type powder is normaly a whole bunch cheaper than pellets and last longer.
:lol: :lol: I snicker every time I read a post where some one switched from T7 pellets and are now useing BH209. Pellets don't seem easier to them now.

I posted about the sabots being seprate was to give ya some thing to do. I up until recently thought every one bought sabots in bulk and their favorite bullet in bulk. or bought power belts. I had never even looked for a package combo. I some times forget that not every body is so tight they squeek when they walk.

Packs of sabots in bulk run from $7.00 to $8.50 per 50 and the bullets run from $18.00 to $40.00 plus per hundred.

Go ahead and eat crow it taste just like chicken, finger licken good if fixed right.

 Al


----------

