# Wyoming Mulie Spot and Stalk Gear Recommendations?



## BowhunterNJ (Dec 30, 2003)

This hunt is going to be a spot and stalk type, and I figured I need to be prepared to put on some miles.

We'll be out there on the 3rd week of November, so I have no idea what the temps will be like or what can be anticipated.

Here's the list of questions:

1) What boot do you recommend for hiking the Wyoming terrain? I was thinking along the lines of Danner, since I hear such good things about them for hunting out west. What do you all use? I also know socks are very important...and since I never do any spot and stalk, not sure what is suitable for this type of hunting. Recommendations there would be great too!

2) What camo pattern do you recommend for the terrain out in Wyoming? Some prarie grass/ghost type pattern?

3) What camo clothing do you recommend for the hunt? Some BDUs and a hooded jacket? Fleece maybe or will those burrs wreak havoc on it? Stick with cotton or some other material? What do you all use?

4) I have a set of Nikon Monarch ATB 8x42s, not the best for out west but do just fine out here in NJ. Will these suffice out there for the week or am I going to burn a hole in my head from strain? Would love to have a set of Zeiss or Swarovski but just can't afford that for this hunt...so I'll likely have to make due with what I have.

5) Backpack wise, I have an all purpose pack where I can pack my gun in the back and whatnot. Thing is pretty awesome, but not sure if I need all that...although the added benefit of that gun carrier could be well worth it. I also have a hydration pack, which I plan on bringing and packing onto the above backpack for putting on those miles!

Anything else I'm missing?


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## smalls (Sep 9, 2003)

I have done a bit of spot and stalk mulie hunting, so I will address your questions as best I can.

1)Boot- Boots are probably the most important piece of equipment you will bring with. Danner makes a good boot. I wear a pair of 8" Cabelas brand, Meindl made boots. I have had them for three years and absolutely love them. They have a kevlar reinforced toe and heel for abrasion resistance (important if you get into some jagged rocks when your sidehilling). I like a stiff boot with a Vibram sole. I would recommend a light layer of insulation (200-500 gram thinsulate) as you will likely be hiking alot and with proper socks it isn't incredibly difficult to keep warm. *Remember, try on ALOT of high quality boots. I broke in 3 pairs and brought them back to Cabelas before I got the pair I liked.* That's another thing. Make sure you take time to break the boots in before you head out in the wilderness. There is nothing worse than hoofing it with a blister, it will make you miserable.

Good socks are imperative. Get a wicking sock. Polyprop socks are alright, but there are better socks out there. Plan on changing socks once or twice a day if your doing alot of hiking.

***If you are going spot and stalk, bring along a giant pair of wool socks. I take my boots off and put thick woolies on during the last 150 yards of the stalk to remain quieter. Some guys just slip giant socks over their boots. Depends on the terrain (rocks and prickly pear can reak havoc on your feet rather quickly).

2)Camo, in my opinion, is a bit overrated. It doesn't work when your moving, and even with camo, if you don't have cover they can see you. If I were to choose a pattern, it would be Predator. IMO, it breaks your outline better than any other camo.

3)Clothing- Dress in layers. Wicking underwear and undershirt. Insulation over that. Windbreaker is optional over that and then your top layer (coat, bibs, pants, sweatshirt). My outer layer is almost always wool. Wool is still pretty unbeatable for its insualting qualities and is one of the few insulators that still works when its wet. I would also recommend rain gear (I wouldn't get caught up in super fancy rain gear, a good thick poncho works very well.) Oh, and leave everything cotton at home. It holds water and doesn't insulate well.

4)Glass- High quality optics are almost as important as boots. I would rather have a $1000 pair of binocs and a $150 gun than a $1000 gun and $150 binocs. If you can't afford better optics, try to find someone to borrow from. Not only will your head burn from strain, but you will curse them when the magic hour comes and you can't tell if that is a 30" buck on the next ridge or another doe. If you do buy new binoculars, buy more than you can afford. They will last you many years if you take care of them.

5)Pack- Depends on how your hunting. Will you have horses? Will you be close enough to roads to drag out (not likely)? Remember you will likely end up quartering (or more) to get any animal out of where you kill it.

I don't know the type of terrain you hunt in NJ, but I assume its not too long range. A good range finder is a great tool. If your archery hunting make sure you practice shooting up and down steep angles of all types and shooting from compromised positions. Rarely is any shot going to be level with you standing feet shoulder width apart.

Hope this helps.

smalls


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## GooseBuster3 (Mar 1, 2002)

I was typing the same thing until Smalls posted it.... you little bastard. :wink: But NJ NEVER where insulated coats, bibs none of that stuff while spotting and stocking muleys, always wear wool. Trust me you wont be killing yoourself, do to over heating.
If you are riding horse back you will have to wear Danners or Sheenes. So you can get your feet in the sturops.


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## BowhunterNJ (Dec 30, 2003)

Great info guys, thanks!

This will be a guided hunt, from what I understand a bit of driving and then spot and stalk. Again, first time mulie hunt for me...so I don't know what to expect.

I've been researching alot of camo options, trying to find something I can use out there and also out here. Probably something mid-season but lightweight, good for walking when cold (say 10s-20s) but warm enough to sit in a treestand in say 40-50s.

I was looking at the Cabela's Legacy Fleece wear, as it seems pretty inexpensive...but comes with Windshear. They say it can be used for layering as well...but I know as mentioned...wind rips through fleece and it'll be ripping out in WY. Plus thie Legacy Fleece is also listed under Lightweight Clothing on Cabela's site...so I doubt it will be very warm. Probably just a good layering piece more so than anything.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... tcat470076

I just bought a DayOne Camo outfit this season for late season treestand hunting here in NJ, fleece bib and parka...but can't use that out there. Point being, as much as I'd love to get wool...I don't think I can afford it with everything else I need to get yet. Wool is pricey, unless you guys know of some quality wool garments that aren't too expensive?

Someone on another forum also stressed the importance of footwear. He recommended the Danner Pronghorn. There are three models of them, I'm wondering if I should get the uninsulated model or the insulated model.

I'm currently thinking about the following ones, the Danner PRONGHORN CAMOHIDE GTX 8":

http://www.danner.com/products.asp?catid=10&prodid=1928

What you guys think?


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## smalls (Sep 9, 2003)

Those boots look like they will do just fine. But like I said earlier, make sure you try on several pair before you buy. And I would avoid the cordura camo model. Go with a boot with an all leather upper. Trust me, you won't get busted for not having camo boots :wink:

For cheap wool, check out Army surplus stores in your area. At times you can find cheap wool there. I will aslo check around to see if I can find anything. I personally wear the Columbia Gallatian wool, its great. But you can pick up Codet bibs for around 60-70 and jacket for probably about the same. I would definitely recommend bibs over pants as well, so you don't get the gap at the top of your crack.

Remember, the wind will make you a whole lot colder than the temp. If it isn't windy, 10 degrees will be awfully warm when your hiking.

GB3, I know you think your the mulie king s---, but you gotta learn how to type faster. j/k :wink:


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## smalls (Sep 9, 2003)

One more thing GB3, did you dump that 5x5 you were talking about? just wondering.


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## GooseBuster3 (Mar 1, 2002)

Smalls :lol: :lol: 
As for the wool, I have the Columbia gallitane wool to it is pretty cheap, and is very comfortable, also I have Sleeping Indian wool, it is the cats *** for wool, they have the pull over jacket that is Really warm. Its made in JacksonHole wyoming so they make all there clothing with the Elk/muley hunter in mind.


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## GooseBuster3 (Mar 1, 2002)

GooseBuster3 said:


> Smalls :lol: :lol:
> As for the wool, I have the Columbia gallitane wool to it is pretty cheap, and is very comfortable, also I have Sleeping Indian wool, it is the cats *** for wool, they have the pull over jacket that is Really warm. Its made in JacksonHole wyoming so they make all there clothing with the Elk/muley hunter in mind. Nope got to within 40 yards and and a damn truck stopped and he bolted.  :******: Sunday was when I did this, he got up for acouple seconds and bedded down again so I new exactly where he was. But for Som stupid reason he decided to get right has this truck stopped to see what the hell I was doing. Bad luck I guess.


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## BowhunterNJ (Dec 30, 2003)

The one thing about the Gallatin wool is it is dry clean only, but I guess this is the case for most every wool with a few exceptions.

Looks pretty good though...you guys size up in that to layer underneath, or not much need?

BTW, why the full leather boot versus the Cordura camo side? I read on their site that Cordura was to prevent wear from sliding on rocks or whatever. Is that a perference for you, all leather, or is there another reason?

And if that mulie EVER sees my boots, that's it...the hunt is over...he's gone...I'm busted! Gotta have that camo! :lol: Really, I just liked that camo side look a little better...that's all!


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## smalls (Sep 9, 2003)

I like less seams on the boot, less to fail. The majority of the wear will be on the toes, the sides don't get much damage.

I would say there isn't much need to size them up at all. Wool is wonderful and you don't need much underneath.

Do you do any bear hunting in NJ? I have heard of some monsters coming out of there this year.

smalls


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## Kansas Kid (Nov 20, 2003)

These guys are right on track with their advice. I just spent two years in Wyoming. I would not count on much warm weather in November and just plan on the wind blowing 40mph everyday. I was at 5000 ft. and It started snowing in mid-Sept. By November, it would often get down to 0 at night. You must have leather boots, I tried Cordura and ended up with a bunch of Cactus in my feet. I like the look of that prairie ghost camo, but I never did try any of it. If you get the right tag, there is no need for an outfitter. They have a lot of strange laws and it is real hard to figure out the boundries for each area, but enough online research will help you with that. Be sure to carry lots of water and some good snacks. I didn't make it back to my truck during the daylight. I bow hunted hard and did not find the buck I wanted to shoot. You have to have good glass. I shot one after 30 minutes of hunting during rifle season. The 45 minute walk to the top of the Mtn took me 4 hours coming back out with a buck behind me.


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## BowhunterNJ (Dec 30, 2003)

Cool...now I understand the leather! 

I didn't hunt any bears here, this year was the first year they had a bear hunt in NJ in over 33 years. I am down south, not a bear zone...but up north they took some bruisers. I heard the biggest went 700 lbs and took the guy three days to pack it all out.


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## smalls (Sep 9, 2003)

700lb blackie, that isn't a bear, its a TANK!!

To add to what kansas kid said, I always carry a headlamp in my backpack. Hiking up and down that terrain is hard enough let alone to do it in the dark. The headlamps are worth their weight in gold since they don't tie up your hands and it is always pointed whereever your looking.

Are you bringing a spotting scope? My suggestion would be to make friends with someone that has some high end glass then borrow it for your trip.

KK- you ever going to head back to Wyoming? I am going to apply for an archery tag this year. It sucks that non-residents can't apply to the wilderness areas without a guide. Even so, there is enough public land in Wyoming to make up for it.

smalls


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## BowhunterNJ (Dec 30, 2003)

Oh yes, headlamps are a MUST in my gear now. I own a PrincetonTec headlamp and the thing is indeed worth its weight in gold! Nothing beats going in hands free and not having to worry about carrying a light.

Add in setting up treestands in the dark, and that headlamp is a lifesaver...literally!

I don't have any high quality optics...the best I can do is probably secure some Bushnell Elite 8x42 4200s from a buddy...but my Monarch ATBs are fairly decent. In lowlight, I can certainly see the difference between his and mine though. My brother has the Steiner Predator 8x42s which he'll be bringing along.

Glassing in general is going to be hard on me because I have a problem with my eyes and close focus (i.e. like looking through binos). Its not being far-sighted, just something with my astigmatism and natural position of my eyes. I can do it, but it puts alot of strain on my eyes...so I'm sure headaches a plenty will be part of the hunt for me.

I think we are relying on the guide for the spotting scope, which I am certain he has.


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## Kansas Kid (Nov 20, 2003)

You will have a great trip. That country changes with every mile. Be sure to start getting in shape right now if you aren't already. The altitude change in itself will slow you down. Add the cold air and wind and it can be hard to breathe. Spend a lot of time before you go looking at Mule Deer, so you will have a good idea of a quality animal if that is what you are looking for. An average Mule Deer will look huge compared to a good Whitetail. While hunting, take your time and glass every bush, they can hide in any type of cover. I have hunted all over the state and there are quality bucks everywhere I went. If you are hunting near "The Park", be sure to do a little research on bears. Most guides don't worry much about them, but they scared the he!! out of me. Several people each year get attacked and three people that I personally know had their elk meat eaten before they could get it all packed out.


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## Kansas Kid (Nov 20, 2003)

Smalls, I will head back out there to hunt, but not for a while. I had a blast decoying antelope into bow range, but I can do that here. I didn't get an elk while I was there due to hunting in a bad bow area and taking my vacation before the rut really got going. I bought a general license and ran into tons of hunters. I found the bull I wanted three days before the season opened and saw him again the next two. On opening morning, about 35 trucks showed up where I was at and blew all of the elk out of the country. I could only find a few cows and the bulls were not making any noise. I know a lot more about the state now than I did then, so I will go back out for that in the future. You really have to be careful about the area you try to draw. Access in the Eastern 1/2 of the state is tough unless you pay to hunt. A lot of the public ground does not hold many animals even in the central part of the state. You have to get as deep in the country as possible and hunt hard. NR's not hunting in the wilderness areas goes back to the outfitters.


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## smalls (Sep 9, 2003)

Thanks for the info. Public land is frustrating, isn't it! I have been looking into units inthe central part of the state, I am going to try and make a trip out there in 2 months just to get some firsthand knowledge of the country.

I agree with you about the lopers (see my avatar). Those speed goats are addicting! I don't know if there is a bigger rush than decoying one and having them charge you at 50 mph! I didn't fill this year, but that will not stop me from going back.

All I have to say about the wilderness is Gott Damm outfitters!


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## Kansas Kid (Nov 20, 2003)

Smalls, I won't be on my computer for the next couple days, but good luck on getting the tag you want. I found some excellent Mulies right in the center of the state on public ground and the antelope are all over. We decoyed lots of goats, but I always seemed to be on the call and decoy for someone else. While bow hunting for mule deer, I hunted right on one of the boundries for three days. I had a stud inside 30 yards twice, but they were standing in the other unit both times. I will hunt that spot again some day. You have to try to draw in the West half if you don't pay for access. My buddy brought out his GPS and we downloaded the area maps so I could figure out the boundries to some of the units. What the heck is "the divide between", that just isn't right. It all looks the same. I always figured they did that to cause a buffer zone between the units. They could easily use county roads for their boundries. Remember that you can't drive on any old road out there. They must be BLM, forest or County before you can travel them.


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