# Reloading Question



## take'em down (Jan 8, 2009)

Hey I've been reloading some 2 3/4 shells but they arent
turning out right. My Extrema wont kick them out. I dont
think im getting enough powder in them bc there is virtually 
no kick but im new to this and dont know how to change it
can anyone help me out on how to adjust it?


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## alleyyooper (Jul 6, 2007)

Helps to know what type/brand of reloader you have.
A big plus would be what bushing/s are you using with what powder?

 Al


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## southdakbearfan (Oct 11, 2004)

Have to agree, hard to tell what you are doing without the loading data you are using.

Some auto's have different settings for magnum loads and target loads, so if you run target loads through with the gun set up magnum loads, it won't eject them, but I can't say if the extrema is that way or not, but I'm sure someone else here can.


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## MossyMO (Feb 12, 2004)

steel or lead and load weight?
brand of powder and what weight of the powder are trying to dump on the primer?
What brand reloader and model?
What brand and model of wad are you using?
What size charge bar with the reloader are you using if equipt?
What gauge you are loading for?


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## take'em down (Jan 8, 2009)

I am using lead 7.5oz but will soon b out of that and will b using 8oz,powder is wincester 473AA,reloader is Mec/sizemaster,wads are winchester AA, reloding for 12guage thank you


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## alleyyooper (Jul 6, 2007)

Ok your useing 7.5 shot size and are switching to 8 shot.
powder is wincester 473AA
reloader is Mec/sizemaster
wads are winchester AA

We still need to know the bushing size in the powder end of the bar.

It sounds like you do not have a big enough one for the powder you are useing.
OR you could have damp hulls that are messing up the powder with moisture.

My bet is the wrong bushing.

 Al


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## dakotashooter2 (Oct 31, 2003)

How did you arrive at the current load you are using? I am not familiar with that powder and can't even find a load listing for it, though it does show up in the MEC bushing table. I'm wondering if it might be a discontinued powder.

I'd suggest buying a lyman shotshell reloading manual and reading it at least twice. I'm not sure how you got your start in shotshell loading, but the fact that you really didn't provide pertinent loading information makes me think you should take a step back. Shotshell loading does not have the margin for error that metalic cartridge loading does and PUBLISHED load recipies are meant to be followed to the letter.

Pertinant information is:
Hull type/brand and length
wad type/designation
payload size ( 7/8 oz, 1 oz, 1 1/8 oz, 1 1/4 oz etc) assuming lead shot
powder brand, designation (number or name) and amount
primer type/brand

The charge bar will designate how much powder and shot is being dropped. Newer bars will have a bushing on the powder side and the amount of powder it throws is on a reference chart. Though, they seem to be off a bit. I usually end up using the next size to get the correct (by weight ) charge. The designation for the shot load will be a number designation on the end of the bar (78+7/8 oz, 118= 1 1/8oz and etc.) If it is an old bar without bushings then a reference chart is required for both shot and powder.

The first press I bought was a used one with and assortment of supplies and a handfull of loaded rounds. It didn't take me long to figure out that the previous owner didn't have a clue, as many of the supplies shouldn't have been used together.


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## alleyyooper (Jul 6, 2007)

*Here are some tips on getting started with the right load for the hulls you use.*

Decide which hull type you will reload, *Get hold of reloading data from several manufacturers. You can either get these thin pamphlets from the place you buy powder, or by going to the manufacturers' websites*. 
Look up the hull type you have, in the gauge you are shooting. For instance, manufacturers may refer to Remington Premier STS as "Remington premier." Determine the most widely used powders from the recipes shown. Write them down. Notice that some powders are best suited for 12 gauge, and others are made for smaller gauges. 
*Buy one of the powders from your list. Your supplier doesn't have what you want? Watch out! Don't just buy what's around. You've got to buy one that was listed for the hull type you're reloading. They are not interchangeable.* When you're messing with 5-7 tons per square inch of pressure, six inches from your eyeballs when the gun goes off, you want to know that someone else has used that recipe successfully before. 
*Buy the wads and primers listed for the hull and powder you have selected. You will have a bit of selection, depending on what weight of shot and what muzzle velocity you pick. *Go first with a shot weight that has the most recipes. A good standard velocity is 1,200 feet per second or thereabout for 12 gauge. The most popular shot weight and velocity is generally the one with the most recipes. You can shoot heavier or lighter loads later, when you're used to the mainstream combinations. 
L*Determine from the powder manufacturer's reloading manual (usually available free where you bought the powder) how many grains of powder you should use for your combination of gauge, hull, powder, wad, shot and desired muzzle velocity. [/b]ook up which bushing you should use from MEC chart. You need to know the right bushing is only an approximation! More on that in a minute. 
Put only powder in the reloader. It makes the repetitive process of measuring and adjusting the powder drop a little easier--you don't have to worry about catching shot. 
Get or borrow a scale. A good, relatively inexpensive one is the RCBS Model 10.10 Reloading Scale, readily available. 
Set up your scale and zero it, according to the scale instructions 
Set scale to desired powder charge, so when you pour the powder into its tray, the scale will read zero. This is much easier than trying to remember "was that 16.8 grains, or 18.6 grains?"

Unhook the primer drop spring so you don't have to worry about primers dropping as you calibrate the reloader. 
Put empty shells under the reprime/powder station and the wad/shot station. Do not insert a wad. 
Drop powder into the spent shell. Take the shot that dropped into a shell and pour it back into the shot container. 
Pour powder into the scale pan and see if you are in the ballpark for the number of grains you should be using. 
If you are light or heavy, then swap out a new powder bushing. (See the MEC manual for that.) You can file out a bushing to make it a bit larger, or use nail polish to make the chamber smaller. When you have the right weight, the scale should zero out, because you had earlier set it to read zero at this weight. 
Retest the new setting on at least two more shells. I say at least two, because the first powder drop will be inaccurate after you've just changed the powder bushing. You've jiggled it, and probably compacted it. Maybe not, but be sure by getting two or three readings before deciding you're done. 
This stuff is a pain. But once it's set, that is a real incentive to leave the recipe alone unless you're having problems with it.

 Al*


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