# Trailer Customization Thread



## nodakoutdoors.com

Chuck Smith had a good idea, to start a thread that would list all of the ideas people put into their decoy trailers. This would help others customize there's and get new ideas. When finished, I will compile a long article detailing all the ideas, photos, tips, etc. into a master list if you will, so it'll be a complete directory on decoy trailer information.

So with that being said...please post up anything unusual you've done to your trailer that is "customized". Feel free to post up photos and if anyone doesn't know how to do so, email them to [email protected] and I'll input it for you.

Also, include anything that is necessary in any decoy trailer and I'll compile a master list of items as well.

Here are a couple things that I MUST have in the trailer at all times:

1) Rake or 2 - Always a must for getting stuff for the blinds.
2) Snow Spray - I buy mine after Christmas for 24 cents/can. I keep 2 cases in the trailer.
3) 3 pairs of waders - Because someone always "forgets".
4) Flag Poles - I always have an extra for others.
5) White board - Nice to keep track during the season (and for your buddies to "tag" with inappropriate things to laugh at later)

dblkluk...you got any pictures of your trailer to show off?


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## dblkluk

Yeah I'll dig some up. 
Like Chris said, we have a TON of fun with the dry erase board.


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## Plainsman

Chris, forgive me, but I can't pass this one up. I haven't duck hunted much for years, but I do have a hunting trailer, and it would carry decoys. I drove to Middelburry, Indiana and saved about $3000 on it. I ordered it with a 15 X 30 inch window on each side, the walls insulated, a 12 volt vent up front, and a passive vent in the rear. I also ordered it with a camper door, and seven feet tall inside so I can drive a Polaris Ranger, or Yamaha Rhino into it.
Then I insulated the ceiling, took out the lights and put in florescent lights, put a counter up in the v nose with cupboards and sink, put foam backed carpet on the floor, and put in a 17,000 but forced air furnace. I am as snug as a bug in a rug at -10. I took it elk hunting in Montana last fall and it was as comfortable as a motel room, only up near the mountain top. 
I got the torsion suspension to keep it low for driving in. I was going to get a 19 foot, but I bought a 7 X 17 foot. If I had got 19 foot to much was hanging behind the rear tire and I was afraid I would hang up in rough hunting country. 
Only one draw back. It takes more diesel to pull than my 5th wheel. Twelve miles to the gallon behind my duramax. 
Oh, one more thing. I put in quick remove bunks in the back. They slide off in ten seconds to make room for ATV's. 
I have no idea now many decoys you could get in here, but I wouldn't want to set up more than it will haul.
I carry a remote weather station with me and set it up a ways from the camper. I like wind speed, temperature, humidity, and 36 hour barometric pressure records so I know how to dress, and where to hunt that day.


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## nodakoutdoors.com

Plainsman said:


> I drove to Middelburry, Indiana and saved about $3000 on it.


That is a good tip to note. MOST trailers are manufactured in Indiana (from what I've been told at dealers) and a lot of the cost is associated with shipping it to the dealer. So if you make the drive to IN and the time/costs associated with the travel far outweigh what you'd pay otherwise, make the trip.


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## Plainsman

Shipping would have cost me $1150. My wife and I took four days. We went through the upper peninsula of Michigan, crossed the Mackinaw (spelling) bridge and down through lower Michigan. Middleburry is only a few miles south of the Michigan border.
It should be easy to talk your wife into going down. This is the heart of Amish colonies and women can shop until they drop. Food in the Amish establishments is really good too.
I think about three trailer manufacturers and four camper manufacturers are in that small town. We went through the Jaco plant where our fifth wheel was made. Pace trailers were made right next door to where my Royal Cargo was built. You will have to go through a local dealer, but they are everywhere. Google dealers for the area and you will come up with half a dozen within ten miles of the plant. 
Oh, meals, motels, diesel, and a few mementos cost around $500


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## h2ofwlr

As for options if looking for one:

Torsion axles make for a smoother ride than regular leaf spring axles. Trosin do come at different GTW (Gross trailer weight) ratings.

Remember any trailer over a 3,000 GTW is going to require lots of extra expense--a heavier hitch is needed and electric brakes on trailer

Mount the fender 3" to 4" higher than normal so the straw/mud does not get caked between the tire and fender. It is a real pain otherwise in trying to dig it out--I have had tires "smoking" the mud/straw was packed in so tight. Also being they are mounted higher, see if the have 1/2 circle fenders VS 1/3 circle as many are. (less mus flying up on sides with 1/2 circle ones. Forget regular steel fenders, as aluminum are the way to go as the rocks flying up from the vehicle will remove the paint or galvanizing on the front portion of them.

Another thing to consider is rigid mount fenders with a flat top so you can stand on them when securing an over head load.

Do you want to hual say a boat on top of it? Or a cargo area on top? appropriate racks are needed and possibly heavier bracing on roof is needed.

Have interior topper lights mounted on ceiling that run off of the tail lights.

Run a seperate electric line for exterior flood lights.

Add high and low closeable vents, this is very important if you store your decoys in the trailer to let the built up heat escape. I recomend at least 4 vents. 2 at bottom at sides and 2 high on walls of ceiling vents.

Rock guard, scouting the gravel roads lots of rock get flung at the trailer, so an aluminum plate guard at least 2' high is in order.

Make sure the tires are rated way heavier than what is needed--I see tires put on a 3,000ln GTW, and they have stock tires that are rated at 1200lbs, so 1200 x 2 = 2400, so they are too light, for a 3k GTW, use tires rated at least 1800lbs IMO.

Mount the spare tire in front of the trailer on the tongue.

Add a swinging arm with adjustable height on front of trailer on the tongue.

Add extra length to the taongue as it is nice to have the tail gate down and still have a few feet before the tongue jack and then the spare tire and then the body. This extra length also makes backing up the trailer a lot easier as you will not jack knife it as easy, especially on smaller lengths (10' or shorter) If hauling an ATV, consider where you are going to place it as you often can adjust where the axle is to accomadate a tail end load or a front end load--remember the tongue weight can not exceed certain weights, and yet needs to have at least 50lbs of downward pressure on the hitch, but having 1,000 lb load is NOT good at all. Basically the trailer axle acts likea teeter totter (see saw), so how you load it makes a difference.

Consider wind drag when choosing the height of the trailer, the trailer top that is not higher than the topper of your PU or roof of SUV as minimal drag, but once you get over 1' higher, see the next suggestion.

A "V" nose at the front of the trailer is a lot more areo dynamic--but costs more too.

Aluminum VS steel frame. If you get a steel frame, have the frame hot dipped galvanized before they build the enclosure. This way the salt will not rust it out so fast. I have seen 1 year old painted trailers all rusty and paint peeling.  Or consider an aluminum frame as it is rust resistant, but also is much lighter so easier to pull, especially with lighter duty vehicles.--but see next suggestion.

Be careful on high profile trailers with cross winds, if it is light weight and with high winds, it'll be jerking you as you drive big time and also can tip over on its side easier.

Dual purpose. Trailer costs can really add up in a hurry. So can it do other duties to so you get more banger for the buck? Like double as a ATVs or snowmobile trailer? If so, what considerations do you need to allow for a say snowmobiles? Tie downs would be very important, as is length and width of trailer.

When you decide the size you need, add 2' to the length. :wink:

I am sure the guys will come up with a few other options to consider.


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## djleye

Field Hunter and I had ours specially made. We had extra cross members put on the sides and also put heavier plywood there to stabalize and for hanging. I cannot remember who gave me this idea but we (I) made a small channel right behind the front door so we could slide two panels in to divide the front and back of the trailer. We put all the bigfoots in the back and the duck decoys, spinners, goose shells, shovels, rakes, etc up front. I also painted the interior of the trailer and then GB3 caulked the entire inside so we can just hose it out if needed. So far we have been very happy with the trailer. We got the barn doors on the back. I have talked with many that had the ramp style doors and they told me that the corn stalk will beat the hell out of those style doors. I looked into the Indiana area and found I could purchase the trailer for less $$ here (Vistos) than I could there. Maybe that only goes for the much larger trailers that others have.

Great Idea for a thread. Wish we would have had this before we purchased!!!


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## Chuck Smith

Just ordered my Trailer......it will be done by friday.....

It is a 12' V with swing doors. 
- Interior lights
- Getting one top vent
- 4 side vents (not that big about 2" diameter)
- Alum. Flooring
- Glass or Kick board mounted on walls.
- Has slide rails for mounting tie down brackets
- 15" tires
- torsin axle
- Bumpers will be mounted 4" above tire

Up grades that I am going to add:
- Flood lights
- Some sort of shelving
- Some sort of tie down system for Ground blinds or what ever
- Hanging Hooks for coats, wadders, windsock sock slings, etc.
- A space for a white board.....(I love that idea guys...)

Hopefully I can think of some more......


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## tvtrav

Ordered mine the beginning of this month. Get yah photos when it comes in.

6X14 - Black
V-Nose
Single Axle
Rear Ramp Door
32" side door
3500lb Payload limit
Independent Torsion Suspension
Key'd Locks all the way around with cam locks (don't need padlocks)
Z-Tech Undercoating
Side Wall Rust Inhibitor
3/4" interior treated wood floor
1/8" interior walls
LED Exterior lights all the way around
2 Interior Dome Lights w/ interior switch
2 Rear Loading Flood Lights w/ interior switch
.030 Exterior Aluminum Side Walls
24" Hammered Aluminum Stone Guard
15" Aluminum Rims with radial tires
4 D-ring floor anchors
2 Salem Vents (creates vacuum in trailer to eliminate dust build-up)
5 Year Warranty


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## jgat

-As far as enclosed trailers go, make sure it has 16" or less on center wall posts. A lot of the cheaper trailers will be 20-24" and are not sturdy enough to take off road abuse. 
-Paint the floor and walls when it is brand new, so there are'nt any footprints or dirt on them. 
-If you are going to be doing a lot of traveling on gravel roads think about investing in a tow-tector or rock tamers for the back of your truck. It is amazing how much abuse the front of the trailer takes even when it has "stone guard" on it. 
-Always have at least one spare.
-If you have a ramp door, put some kind of traction on it so when it is cold and rainy you don't slip on some ice and break your neck.


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## d wiz

I like the eraser board idea...

Here is a couple ideas off the top of my head.

Exterior flood lights - It makes things a lot easier when setting up/tearing down in the dark. Don't forget to add one above the side door.

Wall off the interior of the trailer if you have a side door. That way you can load the back end of the trailer for decoys, and you can easily access blinds, rakes, shovels, etc. in the front of the trailer.

Carpet the interior walls of the trailer ease wear and tear on decoys.


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## MossyMO

I have a 6'X12' dual axle with swing out rear doors, a side door and a 6 1/2' ceiling. Anyone have any idea's on how to set one up for ice fishing; I am assuming it is not going to lower on to the ice wit the solid axles?
Does anyone ice fish with them and useing PVC piping inbetween the trailer and the ice hole?


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## Chuck Smith

Mossy,

I had a friend make a ice shack out of an old camper. They used PVC between the holes and the ice. The hard part is if you drill the holes inside the shack you needed to shovel out all the shavings. Also reaching down the hole to keep it clean or clear out the shavings. Also an auger extension is needed to drill the holes. If the ice gets really thick you might need longer extension.

To let you know it worked great. But just a little work needed to be done before hand.


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## holmsvc

MossyMO said:


> I have a 6'X12' dual axle with swing out rear doors, a side door and a 6 1/2' ceiling. Anyone have any idea's on how to set one up for ice fishing; I am assuming it is not going to lower on to the ice wit the solid axles?
> Does anyone ice fish with them and useing PVC piping inbetween the trailer and the ice hole?


You could maybe put catch covers in and then use catch cover sleeves.

http://www.catchcover.com/sleeve.html


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## MossyMO

Thanks for the suggestions, I am liking this idea of getting another use out of the trailer. I do have an auger extension, so I am thinking those catch covers and some PVC for sleeves. 
My trailer floor does sit 19" off the ground, but I may just try this. Now all I need is a recliner in there and I will be set !!!


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## flotty

This is not my trailer but I found this on a different thread. Very easy and looks extremely organized. Never to early to start planning for next season! :beer:

http://www.forum.minnesotawaterfowler.c ... php?t=6235


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## Danimal

I posted this before, but it fits.

A buddy of mine has a 6x12 with pointed front, side door and rear ramp.

He has a rack system to hang bigfoots and another brand of FB's by their feet.

First he wired the feet to the bodies to prevent separation.

Then he puts 10-11 dekes on a long piece of conduit. Each conduit has a wooden dowel inserted in each end with an eye screw.

Next, Ryan has three ropes on each side (one near the front, one in the middle and one in the rear of trailer) hanging from the ceiling. He uses dog snaps on the front and rear rope and simple S hooks and loops on the middle rope.

He can then hang 3 poles (horizontally) on each side of the trailer, keeping the flocked heads off of the floor.

In the front of the trailer, he stores 4 S.U.B. blinds, 3 doz shells and 2 doz silos. In the center of the trailer he puts any more FB's that do not fit on the racks.

I think he has about 85 FB's in total.

Setting up or taking down the spread is very quick with this system. One person on each end of the pole, and carry them out of the trailer. If we can't drive into the field, we can carry 2 poles at a time with 2 people (20-22 dekes). Drop the dekes, remove poles, carry the poles back to the trailer and get two more poles full of dekes.

When taking down the spread, we line 10-11 dekes up in a row, as someone either gets the trailer or just the poles from the trailer.


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## tvtrav

*Christmas in June!!*










Now.....3 months of tweekin'.


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## bandman

Nice :beer:


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## jgat

I am starting to organize the new trailer, and came up with a pretty cool way to store/transport our sillosocks. Just used one metal rod with some coat rack braces. We have about 700 of them and will be able to get them all in about three rows.


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## Ridge Nelson

jgat,

Awesome idea on the sillosocks and putting up a few hunting pics on the ceiling.

I'm going to be getting a trailer in the next year or two and want to trick it out with decals do y'all have any pics of the outside?

Ridge Nelson


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## grasshopper

Any thoughts on the best way to run exterior lights on the sides and rear. also has any style been a little more durable. right now I just use work lights on a stand and small generator but it sure would be faster to just crank the generator and throw a switch.


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## HATCHETMAN

Grasshopper....Instead of compromising the integrity of the trailer by installing floods, simply buy some of the "cheap" tripod halogen lights from your local tool place. They work great off of the generator and they are very "poseable" to put the light right where you need it every time. You can also easily hang them inside the trailer too. They get pretty hot though, so remember to keep any flammable bags, etc. away from them for 10 minutes or so. GOOD LUCK.


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## grasshopper

thanks hatchet I have been doing that, hanging them makes alot of sense. I have been putting them back in the box everytime drives me crazy. My trailer is 28x8.5 with a canopy on the side we cook out of it when we are on the road. I probaly don't want holes in it.


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## tvtrav

Tweekin'
































































Only 62 Days till early season opener!!


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## NDTerminator

Just upgraded up from a home-made to a 5X10 cargo trailer this last weekend. Keep the modification photos coming...


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## Leo Porcello

Great thread! My trailer is now empty so I have a lot of work to get it ready for new dekes! Keep the pictures and ideas coming!!


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## jgat

I agree keep the photos comming! Here is a little better pic of my sillosock setup. I realized after posting it that the pics were a little deceiving if you didn't really know how it worked. Keep the ideas comming too, right now is the perfect time to be working on the trailers!


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## nodakoutdoors.com

Awesome idea for the Sillosocks. Anytime you can maximize space out of your ceiling you're doing something right.

tvtrav - looks like you're doing a good job maximizing and comforting as well. Like the pics!


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## HATCHETMAN

Oh yeah...almost forgot....one other nice modification I would recommend to anyone that I did to my trailer this year was I rolled on some non-skid herculiner truck bed coating onto the plywood floor and up around the sides about 6". Sealed things off nice, makes it really easy to clean as well. For $120 it did my 6X12 trailer it's a pretty sweet upgrade!! Also rubberized all the undercarriage to prevent rust in the longrun.


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## grasshopper

I have a space maker coffee maker and small Microwave mounted next to the side door, plugs to the into generatoror/ inverter. Cabela's sells the outback ovenand 2 burner stove They are GREAT. Makes a all day hunt alot better plus if you make it back to the the hotel late after restaurants are closed you got it made

PS: I just found the forum seems to be a good bunch of people. I don't hunt ND much we stay in Canada and South of you guys


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## honkbuster3

thanks for some great ideas for my trailer. It should really help :beer: :beer:


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## NDTerminator

Any photos of the conduit FB hangers?...


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## USSapper

Dblkluk, did you get any pics of your trailer?


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## Freestyle Honkers

Great ideas guys. One idea that I picked up from a buddy is how to protect the investment. I installed an Intermatic Motion security system. Picked mine up at Menards in the doorbell section for $10. Pretty cheap way to make sure the decoys are in the trailer in the morning. Hurts the ears too when the alarm goes off. Can either get one that goes off with motion, or get the magnetic trip alarm. Mount the alarm on the first door to open, so once the doors moves the timer starts and then you have 30 seconds to enter the key code in or the alarm goes off. Nice little thing to have when you are at the shady motel and hesitant about the lock getting clipped. May think that this is kind of corny, but easier than buying all new decoys!

http://www.intermatic.com/Default.asp?a ... 18&sid=386
http://www.intermatic.com/Default.asp?a ... 18&sid=386

Zach


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## dblkluk

> Dblkluk, did you get any pics of your trailer?


Actually, we just bought a new trailer and are starting the project all over again...

We have come up with some new ideas to make this system even better than the old one..

I hope to have alot done in the next week or so..(if this heat ever lets up :-? )

I'll get pics up as soon as I can..


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## windjammer

Awesome idea with the alarm system! Now I can plaster mine with some decals and don't have to be afraid of my stuff getting stolen because people know whats in it.


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## Danimal

NDTerm...

This is the only pic I have...right now. I'll see if Ryan can take a few and email them to me. It's hard to see in the pic, but there are 3 conduit poles on each side of the trailer hanging from the ropes. (High, middle and low).


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## dblkluk

Heres one I found on the Avery site.

I'm sure this method keeps the dekes in good shape. 
But I dont know how you would load the poles in the trailer without two people...I would think trying to do it yourself would have dekes sliding all over the place...

I'll stick to the bags...


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## USSapper

No way Dbl, I have been sitting down in a tent for two months and yesterday I came up with that exact same design, but with an MRE box. I plan on doing it pretty much the same way but will section the trailer off up towards the front door with a piece of plywood running across. I plan on making several different slot holes for that sectionor just in case I need more room up front for say, the fourwheeler so I can slide the plywood up and move it back however far needed. I plan on reinforcing the walls and the floors then run 2x4s horizontally down the trailer with little notches to hang the conduit or whatever I use for a pole. I will have several different notches at different points so if I have to move that middle wall, I will have different options in hanging the decoys at different points in the trailer. Also, I will run the top 2x4 all the way to the front so I can hang decoys above the 4 wheeler in the front section if space is limited in the rear portion. In the front section, I should be able to store all my duck decoys, blinds, shovels, rakes, garbage can etc

What do you think? All I need is a year and I will have photos up for you


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## mshutt

Question about the pole method- For the Avery FB motion based system, how do you get them to hang from their feet? I'm guessing you drill 2 holes on each side and string some clear fishing line through so it can hang evenly?


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## USSapper

Looks like they just used some cord with the hole method


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## dblkluk

> Question about the pole method- For the Avery FB motion based system, how do you get them to hang from their feet? I'm guessing you drill 2 holes on each side and string some clear fishing line through so it can hang evenly?


You would have to add a loop of rope or cord to each deke..not sure fishing line would hold up...

The ones in the pic with cords, are hardcores


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## Jungda99

I picked up my trailer last week and started the wiring. Its a 6X12 V-nose. My dad who is a an auto machanic help me out witht he wiring. I thought I would post up some info about how to wire the battery in the trailer. My Chevy comes standard with the 7 pin conector at the bumper. The upper right pin on the truck is ment for charging a battery on a trailer. All you need to do to charge the battery in the trailer is put the 40 amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood. Then cut the 4 pin plug off that the trailer comes with and install a 7 pin plug. Then run a 12 gauge wire from the upper right pin on your new plug into the trailer and connect to the positive pole of the battery in the trailer. I also ran a ground from the trailer battery into the new trailer plug. That way you know you have a good ground. The truck is designed to charge the battery while it is running and if you have the truck turned off you won't run the truck battery down why running your trailer lights. This way you don't have to mess with running a hot wire from your truck battery because it is already done for you. Here is a pic of the new trailer.










Anyone have any ideas on building shevels that are on hinges so you can flip them out of the way when you don't need them?


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## USSapper

I like the idea of being able to have a separate battery to run your lights off of but dont think the battery would have sufficient time to recharge after using it while setting up. I dont know about you but I usually dont drive my trailer more than 50 miles in one day.

Just wondering, How does using that 40amp fuse stop it from draining your battery when the truck is off?

Also, If your looking at building some shelves that you'd like to be easily removed or retracked I thought of an Idea or two. If I was going to do the shelve system in my trailer, there'd be three rows on both sides running from front to back. The walls would have to be reinforced because of stress from the shelves and the weight on them but I would frame up the base to the shelf first, however wide you want them, find out where you want them positioned on the wall then connect them to an anchor point at each end of the trailer with some sort of dowel that could swiwel. Next, I would attach rope/bunge/cord at the anchor point and probably somewhere in the middle that would run diagonally out to the end of the shelving. When you dont need the shelves or just need more room, you can simple fold up the shelf and lock it into place with a predrilled hole you could slide a piece of wood or metal into. Another suggestion could be to section this shelving system so if you needed to have more space in one part of the trailer you could smply fold the shelves up in that part and still have shelves in the other part. If this isnt clear, just picture a folding chair and its concept :wink:


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## Jungda99

Thanks for the shelf idea. I will see what I can come up with this weekend.

to answer your questions about draining the battery when the truck is off. Think of your trucks ingnition as a light switch or better yet the main breaker in your houses breaker panel. Once the key is turned on that is like flipping the main breaker on in your house. You have alot of breakers after the main breaker that don't work if the main is off. If you were to leave the key in the on position but the truck not running then you would drain your truck battery.

An easy way to test to make sure your truck is set up they way my chevy is set up. All you need to do is touch a test light or volt meter to the "charging pin" of your trucks trailer plug in. If it doesn't have power when the truck is off then you don't have a direct link to the truck battery (so you won't drain the battery when the key is off). Then turn the key to on and see if you have power at that pin. Then start the truck and see what the votage/amps reads. mine varied from 14-16 amps (that is what the altenator puts out so I know I had the right one).

Hope this helps

Trucks with the tow package or designed to do this. A lot of dump trailers have a battery that runs the hydrolic pump


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## chris lillehoff

the dry erase boards are great for getting everyone on the same page as far as decoy placement and how the spread should be.


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## maple lake duck slayer

Question on the wiring...I do not have the 7 pin hookup on my truck. As an alternative to wiring that whole system in, I could just run a positive wire from the truck battery to a battery on the trailer? Then proceed with wiring exterior lights from the battery on the trailer?

Has anyone ran wires off the battery in the trailer to charge spinning wing decoys?


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## Sean Ehmke

USSapper, early last year dblkluk downloaded a diagram on how to wire an extra battery in one of my threads. Do you remember that Dblkluk. Not a bad idea. I was trying to wire for fog lights.

Sean


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## Horker23

maple lake duck slayer said:


> Question on the wiring...I do not have the 7 pin hookup on my truck. As an alternative to wiring that whole system in, I could just run a positive wire from the truck battery to a battery on the trailer? Then proceed with wiring exterior lights from the battery on the trailer?
> 
> Has anyone ran wires off the battery in the trailer to charge spinning wing decoys?


If your trying to wire your positive charge to you battery, i would run a charger system like they have on dump trailers. You still run your constant 12V feed back to the front of the trailer. Then into the charger box( which will charge your batt in the trailer as you travel) the run your feed back to you battery. Make sure you ground your charging unit!


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