# percussion



## guppy11 (Aug 14, 2008)

I am new to muzzleloading and I borrowed a traditional hawkens from a buddy. The problem is a have to fire two to three caps(magnum #11) before the power will ignite. I am using pyrodex select and just replaced the nipple. Any suggestions?


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## Plainsman (Jul 30, 2003)

I am guessing you have a drum type that requires the fire to make a 90 degree bend. I have often had problems with these rifles more than others, but I have had hangfires in my Thompson Hawken also.

At a Levi Garret black powder shoot I had two hangfires that cost me five points. I switched to P (pistol) Pyrodex and reduced my load by 10 percent. Two months later at the state shoot I took five out of six first place trophies. Hodgdon sent me a free case of Pistol Pyrodex.

I didn't change my sight picture at the shoot. I used 70 gr of P Pyrodex with a round ball for deer season and sighted in at 100 yards. At the shoot I used 50 gr for 25 yard targets, 60 gr for 50 yard targets, and my 70 gr load for 100 yard targets. All loads by volume.

I use Select in an inline I have, but I use P Pyrodex in my Hawken, Cherokee, and Patriot.


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## guppy11 (Aug 14, 2008)

thanks for the info.  I will try it .


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## barebackjack (Sep 5, 2006)

guppy11 said:


> I am new to muzzleloading and I borrowed a traditional hawkens from a buddy. The problem is a have to fire two to three caps(magnum #11) before the power will ignite. I am using pyrodex select and just replaced the nipple. Any suggestions?


Thats the problem with Pyrodex in sidelocks. Has a higher flash point than real black powder. Ive stopped shooting it, only the real stuff goes down the bore of any of my guns. I used to get one or two misfires with pyrodex every 50 shots or so. Since switching to the real stuff, ZERO!

Couple things that can help.

As plainsman stated your rifle has a drum. This means the flame from the cap has to make a 90 degree turn.

One thing that could help is when loading, pour your charge down the barrel, and before seating a ball, tap on the side of the rifle a few times while slightly canting the rifle toward the lock side . This will help settle some powder into that drum getting it closer to the flame source.

Another thing to try is to switch to pyrodex P (pistol and small bore). This is a finer granulation with more surface area. You should also DECREASE your load by 10% or so when going to this grade as it generates higher pressures. Although personaly, id just switch to the real stuff. Its so much easier and cleans up far easier than pyrodex. Water and patch.

Another good practice to get into is making sure that drum and flash path are clean. Pop a few caps before begining your shooting session to make sure its clean of debris or oil (point in safe direction just in case there is something down there). Also, after every so many shots, maybe remove the clean out screw at the end of the drum and run a pipe cleaner down there a few times.

Good luck, good to see someone new actually trying the traditional route instead of the "easy" road. :beer:


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## darkgael (Feb 10, 2006)

Pyrodex, for all its virtues, is harder to light than "real" BP. I can't use it in my flintlocks unless I duplex it with BP. I made the switch to BP a few years ago and am happy that I did, though I still shoot Pyrodex occasionally.
BP - Easier to light, easy to clean up, less expensive.
Pete


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## guppy11 (Aug 14, 2008)

I tried the pyrodex P this weekend and had great results. Thanks to everyone for your help


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## alleyyooper (Jul 6, 2007)

Also use CCI Magum caps and avoid the remington caps as they have gotten a bad rep for not always working like they are supposed to.

 Al


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## Gildog (Jan 30, 2007)

I remove the nipple and drop a couple grains into the flash hole, then screw the nipple back on. Went from hang or misfire 50% of the time to 100% ignition.


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