# Conibear traps



## Riceburner (Feb 18, 2011)

Have any of you had a dog that got caught in a conibear trap while hunting?
I carry a rope and have watched the Utube video on removing the trap--but I really wonder if you have a chance to save the dog. I know there are racoon traps in the area where I'm hunting pheasants, tho not sure if the dog would get it's head deep enough into a 220 conibear to hurt it.
Any direct experience with this?


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

a dog will get their heads far enough into a buck or box trap to get very hurt. I've had a coworkers dog get in one and it didn't end well. The do was on the neighbors land, trespassing, got into one of the boxes and the neighbor felt really bad but there wasn't nothing he could have done differently because it was his land and the dog wasn't suppose to be there in the first place. My coworker was mad, but more at himself for not chaining the dog in the first place. Mistakes do happen. If you get a dog into a 220, the best thing you can do is twist the trap to allow blood and air flow. The orientation of the springs would be at the top and bottom of the head. This will give you a little more time to get the trap off.

xdeano


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## Chaws (Oct 12, 2007)

Instead of rope, I bring big zip ties. They're a lot faster and hold the trap springs together and you can synch them down to open the spring much easier than a piece of rope.


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## Dick Monson (Aug 12, 2002)

That is good planning. I don't think it would be difficult to trap proof a dog just like is done with snake avoidance.


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## Chaws (Oct 12, 2007)

Dick Monson said:


> That is good planning. I don't think it would be difficult to trap proof a dog just like is done with snake avoidance.


Not sure that would be all too foolproof. Snake avoidance training in dogs is based on sight, smell and sound isn't it? The movement of a snake, the smell, or the sound of a rattling... Pretty tough to get a dog to leave a baited trap box alone if it's anything tasty to the dog. Also many times the conibears are placed in a natural opening to cover or one created by creature traffic. Good working upland dogs will find themselves going in the path of least resistance which is where the traps are often placed. In most cases though, make sure you talk to the land owner to see if there are any trap lines on that property and try to stay away from them.


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## 6162rk (Dec 5, 2004)

well stated chaws. know the property you are hunting as best as you possibly can


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## gonehuntin' (Jul 27, 2006)

A rope with a foot loop works far better than zip lock ties. You have to hold the trap DOWN to compress the spring and you'll never get your foot in the trap with the dog's head. Carry 6' of 1/4" rope with a loop for your foot in one end. Thread the rope through the bottom spring, up through the top, then once again up through the bottom and top. Pull and lock with the dog on the trap. When you switch sides, just compress the spring and get the dog's head out.

As soon as you find the dog turn the jaws to the side so his windpipe is not being crushed. No matter what you dog, chances are slim the dog will live.


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