# First impression of Uberti Cattleman Millennium 45 Colt



## The Norseman (Jan 8, 2005)

BEAUTY AND THE BEAST
The Uberti Cattleman Millennium single action revolver in .45 Long Colt with
its black matte finish and unpolished matte finished brass grip frame is solid and
well made.

Not as refined as other polished, deeply blued single action revolvers, the Uberti
Cattleman Millennium .45Colt definitely calls out to be used and not stored
away in a gun volt.

I recently acquired the Uberti Cattleman Millennium .45Colt revolver new in the
box (NIB), with hangtag and instructions. Here are my first impressions.

BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER
The fit and finish of metal to metal, or metal to wood present a fluid seamless
mating of material as if everything grew together. All screws; three screws in
the frame holding the trigger/hammer assembly together, five smaller screws
holding the grip frame to the receiver, and one in ejector rod housing are the flat
slotted variety. All screw slots are in perfect shape, straight, and not a one
bummed up. Wood grips are one piece and appears to be stained Birch wood.

The barrel is 4-3/4 inches long. The Uberti trademark line "+Stoeger - 
ACCOKEEK,MD-A.UBERTI-ITALY+" is at the top center. .45COLT is
marked on the left side and proof marks right side near the receiver. Proof
marks are on the exterior of cylinder and on interior rim next to the charge holes.
Patent dates on lower left side of the receiver. An ejector rod housing with
spring retained ejector rod within, is mounted 45 degrees right side of barrel.
Trigger is a thin blade of steel, which reminds me of a stout kitchen fork tine. It
sits in the trigger guard off center to the left.

Hammer is color casehardened and spur has a small checkered pad on top, with
a border around it, to assist pulling the hammer back. Unfortunately my
revolver's checkered pad was machined off center. The Hammer spur is high,
making it a long thumb reach for cocking the revolver. To actually see the rear
sight groove and aim the front sight the hammer has to be drawn all the way
back as if firing the revolver.

Front Sight, is a swept back blade, standing .345" tall, at the top front of the
barrel. It is tapered toward the top, making for a very thin sight. Rear receiver
sight is a groove pinched into the top of the receiver, with a V cut into the area
just before the hammer touches the back of the receiver.

SAFETY FIRST
Firing pin is a pointed round piece of steel mounted on to the hammer. It is
pinned in place and free floating. When the revolver is fired, the hammer
drops forward toward the frame, the firing pin goes into a matching hole in the
receiver, and a small bit of the pin protrudes through receiver, which hits the
cartridge's primer resting (on the opposite side next to the recoil shield) in the
cylinder charge hole (all is aligned with the barrel's bore). Just below the
firing pin, is what is called the safety block. It is actuated (flips forward) when
the hammer is cock to the first safety notch (a plunger rod within the hammer
actuates the safety). The cylinder pin (front two radiuses) can be used as a
safety.

TIMING IS EVERYTHING
Cylinder timing and rotation in relation to lock up prior to the hammer dropping
are correct. Cylinder lock-up is tight when the hammer is at rest, at each of the
slots, and when cocked into battery. There is barely a hint of cylinder end
shake (movement forward/backward) when hammer is at rest or cocked.
Alignment between the cylinder holes and barrel are correct (eye balled down
the barrel as cylinder holes come into alignment with barrel).

RING WARS
Cylinder ring is nonexistent. Single action design, is such that the bolt rises just
before the locking notch comes into place as the cylinder locks into alignment.
Uberti's do not ring the cylinder. It has been my observation, a single action
revolver that has cylinder ringed; the previous owner has abused the revolver
some how.

To avoid a cylinder ring drag mark, do this (as when loading); always point
revolver in a safe direction, bring the revolver to half cock to let the cylinder
rotate, flip open the loading gate, load one cartridge, (advise to end up on an
empty chamber), skip one charge hole, and load remaining four charge holes.
Now, always, always pull the hammer back to full cock, then carefully lower the
hammer to the empty chamber (always point revolver in a safe direction).

The cylinder rotates on, and is held in place by a three-inch pin. This pin can be
easily slid out of the receiver, just depress a smaller retaining pin that sits cross
ways (left to right) at the front of the receiver. The smaller retaining pin
engages a matching radius cut at the end of the cylinder pin. Cylinder pin and
retaining pin are machined to tight tolerances and are tight.
A word of caution; the two piece retaining pin should be glued and tighten in
place because it will evenly spring apart from use.

THE TAKE DOWN
The easiest way I have found to disassemble this type of revolver is to; make
sure the gun is unloaded, pointing it in a safe direction, bring hammer to half
cock, laying the revolver in left hand put your thumb (which ever is comfortable
to you) to push down the retaining pin, now with the right hand sorta clamped
around the barrel, make a OK sign, pinching down on the protruding end of the
cylinder pin, push down on the retaining pin, and pull out the cylinder pin, it
might be tough, so let the revolver float in your left hand, trying not to put
pressure on the cylinder. Pressure on the cylinder will bind and hinder taking
out the cylinder pin. Put the pin in a safe place. It will be filthy if the revolver
is used a lot.

Carefully, (the cylinder is loose) flip over the revolver (releasing the retaining
pin), and open the loading gate. Now, making the OK sign again with the left-
hand (holding revolver firmly in right hand), carefully lift the cylinder out of the
receiver. Swivel cylinder up to the right to clear recess cut in the recoil shield
(made for the loading gate) (look at the recess cut after disassembly to see what
I'm trying to explain) All this, trying not to scratch parts. To reassemble
(carefully, do not force anything) do in reverse.

TIME WILL TELL
So far I'm impressed with this rugged looking revolver. Due the reasonable
price, the Uberti Cattleman Millennium can make it affordable for Shooters who
are thinking about joining in on the Cowboy Action Shooting fun.


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