# Scope for 22-250



## jakester (Apr 13, 2004)

I recently bought a Tikka T3 22-250, and was wondering what kind of scope some of you would recommend......brand, model, magnification....etc.. Any input would be appreciated. The rifle will be used in wide open spaces where shots of 300yds are common.


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## Militant_Tiger (Feb 23, 2004)

at least a 4-12, probably up to 18 or 20 would be good. Leupold makes the best scopes for the dollar, but other brands are available for cheaper (you get what you pay for).


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## Michael Brigman (Sep 3, 2004)

Who makes the best fog-proof scope? I've seen these scopes used on TNN and ESPN and they say that this scope will not fog-up (from your breath or the weather) on those cold, wet winter mornings. Does anyone here use this type of scope?


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## Remmi_&amp;_I (Dec 2, 2003)

I don't know about the best, but I love Redfield Scopes. I have one that is about 4 years old on my 22-250 and it the lense is oblonged........seems to fit me really well!


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## SniperPride (Sep 20, 2004)

Well I dont know about the "best" one, basically its just preference of which scope people have used in the past and the scopes that work well they like. Generally Leupold scopes are very popular and are very good scopes, Zeiss scopes work well I have used them before, Springfield Armory my current riflescope works very well also. "Fog-free" scopes usually are nitrogen filled, all the top scopes in the brands listed above are. :sniper:


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## DustinS (Nov 9, 2004)

Go with a sightron. I have the sightron SII 4-16x42 stainless on my Remington 700 VSSF 22-250. It works great. I also have a sightron on my 7mm Rem. Mag.


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## farmerj (Jun 19, 2004)

How many want my speech on scopes from work?

Here is the post I made about a similar tpic at sniper's paradise.

Dec 11 is our stores grand opening. As a result we have NUMEROUS factory reps to indulge our minds and products. Dec 10th I spent visiting with the reps from both Nikon and Burris (Bill Binnet) as well as the President (John McCarty) of Burris himself.

What of the optics. Spend time reading the optics forums and you would think every one was a rocket scientist. Light transmission this, transfer that, My head spins even now. What are you really doing with a scope? You bend light. Really that is all you are doing in the mechanics of the scope.

Now HOW do you bend that light? With the optics. Cheap scopes have cheap glass. I will not deny that. But not all expensive glass is good glass. Nikon is good, but it isn't the cat's meow. Leupold is as well, but something never sat right with me on Leupold.

First off, lenses. you basically have 4 locations for lenses. Your objective, throat (behind you turrets), reticle (in front of the magnification ring) and eye piece.

Think of your house and your water system. You feed your house with a 1" main pipe through out to your faucets. You want to water your yard with a 3/4" hose. So WHY would you put a 1/2" faucet for your outside spigot?

Your objective is your main pipe, your hose is the eyepiece and the throat lens is the faucet. Why would you want to restrict those lenses to reduce light transmission?

From the Burris website.









Guess which lens belongs in the Leupold Vari-X III? the Burris Fullfield II?
The larger lens is in the Fullfield II. 65% larger. A scope that costs half the price.
Big deal. Big deal? That lens is what can create the reduction in actual light transmission back to your eye. Remember the 1/2" faucet? Here it is.

Bare with me here. I am trying to condense an 1 1/2 hour conversation into a paragraph.

objective sizes play into the picture as well. The objective diameter divide by the magnification. Yeah, that is as important as well, but not nearly as this lens or the coatings.

All manufacturers coat lenses. The quality of that coating is what sets them apart.

Think back to your high school science classes. You talked about the light spectrum. OK, so maybe not, some of us can't remember back to yesterdays supper. But you have Ultraviolet light at one end and Infra Red at the other. In the middle you have visible light.

In a store, when you are shopping for scopes you bring your scope up and you see a nice crisp clear picture. Most stores have fluorescent lighting. More towards the Ultra violet end of the spectrum.

In the field, you see things that are mostly brown. Animals tend to be more earth toned. wood is mostly brownish, grass, so on, so forth. These are all towards the Infra red end of the spectrum.

Glass coatings are a way the manufacturers enhance the glass to transmit the light back to your eye. The angles you have between your lenses matter too, but we will stay with coatings for now. So how many different coatings do you really need? In the optics world there are like 120 different coatings. John Burris (dec), I guess, developed like 40 of them and still has the rights to them through the Burris company. There are two companies that have the rights to these coatings. And listed in the order given to me. Swarovski and Burris are the only two that use these coating.

While other manufacturers are coating there lens to enhance the ultraviolet end of the spectrum, the opposite of the browns. Burris and Swarovski are enhancing the Infra-red end of the spectrum. The end were our business actually goes on, not the showroom.

An optical engineer did that for you. Wasn't he nice?

What about the throat lens? There is a spring at your adjusting turrets. Most scope manufacturers use a spring of about 3-5 pounds of pressure. Leupold having the strongest at 5 lbs of pressure. When you zero you scopes you will often have to tap your turrets or shoot the rifle to get a true movement on your point of impact. Burris uses a 16 pound double spring. Which would you rather have?

So what about the Objective divided by the magnification? When we are younger, under that 30-35 years old, our eyes dialate to about 7mm. As we get older they can only dialate to only about 5-6 mm. As you get a larger exit pupil, you basiclly waste that light on your face. As the pupil gets smaller, you have a less crisp image. So if you have a scope with a 50 mm objective bell, and a magnification of 3.5-10 power, at high powere you have an exit pupil of 5mm. About perfect. for a 3-9X40 at high power it would be about 4.4mm, a little smal but still hard to tell a difference with.


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