# trap treatment?



## dannylilly (Dec 26, 2005)

JUST WONDERING WHAT TYPE OF TRAP TREATMENT YOU GUYS USE. ALSO STAKEING AND PAN COVERS. HOW LONG IS YOUR CHAINS AS WELL? CHANGING FROM LONG SPRING TRAPS TO JUMP TRAPS IS WHY SO MANY QUESTIONS.


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## cya_coyote (Aug 31, 2005)

well, i have been concentrating on ****, muskrats and beaver for the last few years, and am just getting into the predator thing this year. for the last 10 years i have been using speed dip. it is a cold dip you mix with coleman fuel. works pretty good, but if you have a trap with a big production, it will wear off. i had 2 last year that got kind of shiny, but that was after 15-20 **** each! i am going to try it for coyotes and fox this year. i hope it still works like it does for the water sets.

cya

:sniper:


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## Mongojoe (Nov 2, 2006)

For many years I used the logwood crystals, then in the late 70's when it started to become difficult to find, I switched to the brown powder that turns black in the water, and used it for a number of years...but for the last 12 or 15 years I used the dip... It works well, and is alot faster, especially if you have very many traps to treat.

As for stakeing...I'm "old school" and 99% of my stakes are made from either sucker rod or re-bar...and altho most of them are about 18 to 20 inches long, I have them in sizes from about 15 inches to several feet, to fit different soil conditions....and I went by the motto, "Stake so as to hold the most powerful animal that may get into the trap"... and so sometimes I cross-staked, if I had doubts.

Pan covers are a matter of preference... I know people who use, and/or I have used myself...cut nylon window screen, baggies, "under-alls", a large leaf, trapper's caps, and several other methods...but I have found that I most often preferred to use the "trapper's cap"(often home-made). However if dirt under the pan was a concern, or in very sandy soils, I often used the cut nylon window screening.

For chains I preferred different lengths for different animals...and I am a firm believer in swivels... But I believe you are thinking about predators here...and my primary predator here was the coyote... On my coyote traps I liked about 8 or 9 inches of chain, includeing the swivels at the stake connector, and at the trap itself....and on some of my coyote traps I also put a swivel mid-chain..... When I first started trapping coyotes I used a long chain but I was having more pullouts than I liked...I used to wonder why...Then one day I walked up on a coyote and he was backing off, stretching out the chain, then taking a run and hitting the other end. I watched him do this a few times...big mistake...about the third or forth time he did this he popped out, leaveing a couple of toes, and was gone.... I started useing chort chains right after that... And even tho I have seen coyotes stand and jump up and down trying to "jack" the stake out of the ground, I still have much fewer losses with the short chain.


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

I started-out using walnuts for dye, then waxing. A couple years ago I used logwood....I've went back to walnuts.

I do dip some water traps, but will eventually go back to dye & wax, as I feel wax increases the speed of a trap.

For landtrap staking, I use Berkshire cablestakes, and assemble my own in various lengths. I attach them to my traps via splitrings, which makes it simple to swap-out a dirty trap for a fresh one, or to add a second cablestake in the event I feel the need for double-staking.
For watertraps, rebar is usually used for trap anchoring, or securing my drowner rods or slidewires.

Pan covers- either waxpaper or coffee filters. I've experimented using a trappers cap, but prefer pancovers.

Here is one of a couple #3 jump traps I mofified for someone who wanted to use them for coyote. I also replaced the crossframe & added panposts, so pan tension could be set & pan slop eliminated.

Smitty


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