# Hunting with dogs



## NDhunter08 (Aug 28, 2010)

I have two chocolate labs one 5 and the other is almost 2, and I would love to starting bringing them waterfowl hunting. I just want to know what most of you put them in or how you hide them. I asked some and they say they put them in their blind but that sounds a little risky with me shooting in it. I mostly use them for pheasant hunting and they are great retrievers. Any advice on how to hide them or any other tips on bringing dogs with would be much help. Thanks!


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## gooseslayer34 (Jun 30, 2011)

get a dog blind. there are alot of different types and styles. I have the avery finsher dog blind and it is great lots of room inside


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## NDhunter08 (Aug 28, 2010)

thats what I was thinking. What u do for training, like how you get them to stay in there when the birds are coming. They have been trained more for pheasant hunting not so much waterfowl. Will it just be instinct for them?


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## ndgooseslayer (Jul 26, 2007)

It will take some training to get them used to sitting in a dog blind. I know some guys stick them between their legs in their blind, but I've never been a fan of it. Several years ago I had my dog laying beside my blind covered up w/ some camo. It seemed like h never liked laying real close to the blind and I've often thought it was because the gun report was too loud for his ears. He always seemed to prefer being off by himself behind the blind so thats where I set up his blind and he learned to love it pretty quick


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## DuckBuster (Mar 18, 2003)

Get them a dog blind and then spend plenty of time working on steadiness training. Your dogs are mostly pheasant dogs and unless they're pointers, steadiness has probably not been a real focus in their training. The last thing you want is a howling/whining dog that breaks before those big honkers land in the pocket. Trust me, when a dog see those geese trying to land on them, it can drive them nuts. I ALWAYS have my dog with me when I am hunting. For me, one of the best parts of hunting is watching a well trained dog work. Whether it's pheasants, ducks, or geese, if I am there, so is she.


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## NDhunter08 (Aug 28, 2010)

The 5 year old is a pointing lab so hopefully that does help, but thanks for the advice! What are some training tips on getting them to stay in the blind? I totally agree with you, and this is why I started this topic because I love hunting with the my dogs.


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## slough (Oct 12, 2003)

Work in the yard having them get in and lay down in the blind - depending on how big your dogs are, they might not be real crazy about going in at first as some of the blinds are pretty small. I use the "kennel" command. Treats may work well to develop it as a happy place. Make them lay there a few minutes and do some retrieving but don't let them retrieve until you release them. I had a 9 month old pup last fall and he did pretty well with this method. I also put a stake in the ground with about 18 inches of rope tied to it right in front of the blind when we were hunting just so if he did break I could tug him back in there quickly.


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## 2eagles (Jun 15, 2005)

This is a way to get them started in their own blind. It's just a cheapie, but hides real nice most places when stubbled up.


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## nemitz (Oct 18, 2005)

Anybody have success with just a neoprene vest? thats what i use and steady my dog right behind my blind. Hasnt been an issue so far.


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## Duckslayer100 (Apr 7, 2004)

nemitz said:


> Anybody have success with just a neoprene vest? thats what i use and steady my dog right behind my blind. Hasnt been an issue so far.


I'm sure that if your dog is steady enough, a neoprene vest would be just fine. The trick would be getting him that steady.
Dogs are very place oriented. That's why one particular woah training method involves putting pieces of cardboard on the ground for them to be on.

Same theory can go for a blind. While it may not appear obvious, a dog likely will have an easier time training to be steady in a blind than out of ones, ESPECIALLY if they already are crate trained. I've been doing this with my GWP and he's taken to it very quickly. But he's already woah trained and has been crate trained since he was brought home from the breeder.


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## templey_41 (Jul 19, 2008)

I have two yellow labs and I put neoprene vests on them and then tie them either to my blind or I stake them so that they can't go any further in front of me than my head. that way i can release each dog when I want and you don't have to worry about steadiness. this works great for me hopefully it helps you.


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## verg (Aug 21, 2006)

I have two labs and they just lay right next to my blind. (hunt one at at time) I kind of hide the space with a couple dekes. When colder I put a vest on them. If your dogs are steady, you will have no problems. We shoot lots of geese each year and have no issues with a dog laying out. Just think you want to have them close to blind and not moving. Shot limits this weekend and had many of the flocks plop right in on the ground and some not too far from my dog. Was pretty neat and he did a great job of not breaking.


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## NDhunter08 (Aug 28, 2010)

Got my dog out for the fist time, and he did amazing on every retrieve! Should have had our limit, but its always fun to bring out some youngsters. I guess hard work with your dog does pay off!


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## nemitz (Oct 18, 2005)

Nice looking Dog. Sure is fun to hunt with them.


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## NDhunter08 (Aug 28, 2010)

Thanks! He still needs to get in better shape for pheasant opener tho! ha. How do you work with dogs on retrieving more than one bird, becasue my younger lab did have trouble with that. Also, thanks for all the help tips...keep them coming!


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## BigT (Feb 19, 2008)

Congrats on the hunt!!! I hope the pups were steady for you. I know I am late to this thread, but I will toss my input in the circle. When I taught my dogs it began with simple marks with the dog at my side, making her stay til released. When we had that down, I moved her into her blind and repeated, then gradually upped the ante. Eventually I was in the blind next to her, calling and my kids would throw a dummy over us (from behind) and I would yell TAKE EM and sit up and shoot. Then get super excited and make a lot of noise. After she sat I would release her. Then we went to the field, but I used a check cord through her blind to mine and tied her up as extra security. If she attempted to break before released, I would not let her get the bird. She picked it up well. As far a multiple birds, begin in the yard again with marks. Throw one, then start throwing multiples. They will figure it out, and when they sit in the blind until released, they can watch the birds drop. Best of luck with it, you got a good looking pup there!! :beer:


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## BigT (Feb 19, 2008)

Congrats on the hunt!!! I hope the pups were steady for you. I know I am late to this thread, but I will toss my input in the circle. When I taught my dogs it began with simple marks with the dog at my side, making her stay til released. When we had that down, I moved her into her blind and repeated, then gradually upped the ante. Eventually I was in the blind next to her, calling and my kids would throw a dummy over us (from behind) and I would yell TAKE EM and sit up and shoot. Then get super excited and make a lot of noise. After she sat I would release her. Then we went to the field, but I used a check cord through her blind to mine and tied her up as extra security. If she attempted to break before released, I would not let her get the bird. She picked it up well. As far a multiple birds, begin in the yard again with marks. Throw one, then start throwing multiples. They will figure it out, and when they sit in the blind until released, they can watch the birds drop. Best of luck with it, you got a good looking pup there!! :beer:


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## JDP (Aug 17, 2011)

when i first started to train doubles with my dog i found a place that had a chain link fence and stood at the end of it and threw two separate marks, one on each side of the fence. Then send your dog for one of the marks and have them deliver to hand, heel them and point them to the other mark and send them. The reason for the fence is it prevents the dog from switching on the marks which you do not want if you are going to run them in any field tests or hunt tests. once this is down pat you can then move on and start to do double marks in a field with no cover. Really important that the dog can see the mark on the ground. Send him for the last dummy thrown first and have him retrieve to hand then heel and send for the other. If the dog switches on the mark do not let him retrieve it, whistle sit him and have him heel and start again. Once this is firmly in place move to cover and repeat. Always send the dog to the last mark thrown first. This is pretty much the same process as learning tripples minus the fence. just my two cents...


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