# Heel ?



## duketter (Nov 24, 2004)

I have a problem with the heel command with my almost 2 year old springer. When I say heel, he comes to my side and walks for a short while (maybe 2-5 seconds). Then he is out in front of me again. I can say heel and he comes right back and does the same thing. I don't think he realizes heel means to walk by my side and STAY walking by my side.

Do I hold the lead so he has to walk beside me? I have tried this but doesn't seem to work, but maybe I am doing something wrong?


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## Labs_4_Life (Jun 22, 2006)

I am by no means an expert, but I'd recommend getting a metal prong collar (and possibly a heeling stick). Tell your dog to heel, and if he decides he wants to go out in front of you, say, "No, heel" while giving him a quick pop with the leash. He should learn fairly quickly what heel means. Just my two cents worth. Again, I'm not an expert, but that method worked great with my lab. Good luck!


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## ryanps18 (Jun 23, 2006)

It must be a springer thing!! Mine does the same thing some times. I use a slip lead and as soon as she starts to creep out in front of me I trun and walk the other direction quickly that usually gets her attention. I also walk in figure eight patterns using my Knee and a pull on the lead when truning into the dog. Do this a few minutes a day and she will start to anticipate your moves to aviod the pull on the lead. It starts to trun in to a game with my dog, this is what you want, the dog should always be watching your knee. My springer needs contstant training on heel or she will start getting sloppy unlike my lab.


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## brianb (Dec 27, 2005)

Good advice.

You will also want to through in about faces. "The Koehler Method of Dog Training" is excellent for obedience. That's where I got this.

You'll need a 6' leash, hold it right hand with dog on left, fold the slack back under and hold it your right hand also. The leash should be slightly loose with your dog at heel but shouldn't be dragging on the ground.

Start forward with the command heel, as the dog forges ahead, drop the looped portion of leash to allow it to go to its full 6', and turn abrubtly 180 degrees and walk away at the same pace. This gives the dog the maximum amount of time to correct its position before a correction. It also gives you more time to get up to speed if the dog is still heading in the wrong direction and not paying attention to you. That equals a really firm correction if he was forging out in front.

Keep throwing these in randomly. Speed up, slow down, jog. Stop, turns, about faces.

Once you get these going well in a controlled environment add distractions like a busy parking lot, pet store, a park with kids, anything you can think of.

You'll be amazed at how perfect your dog can be at home then such an idiot the first time you take him out public. He'll soon figure out that the rules apply everywhere.

Brian


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## always_outdoors (Dec 17, 2002)

My springer does the same thing. Just has this drive to be out in front. It is a hard habit to break. Mine gets sloppy to if we dont' "practice" it.


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## BigDaddy (Mar 4, 2002)

duketter:

The "heel" command is one of the most difficult basic obedience commands for a dog to learn, but it is critical that your dog learn this. It is not only a nuisance for your dog to heel, it can be downright dangerous in a hunting situation.

Get a slip collar and a 6-foot leash. Make sure you use the slip collar properly so that it loosens without pressure (there is a right way and wrong way), hook on the leash, and give the dog the "heel" command. Then, whenever he starts to venture too far forward, give him a quick pop with the leash. Don't be shy with this.. you are not going to hurt him. Give teh dog, the "heel" command with each pop, and the dog should learn quickly that venturing too far forward will result in a negative stimulus.

After the dog gets the idea from a straight walk, start quick turns at right-hand angles AWAY from the dog. In other words, if your dog is on your left, start making quick turns to your right. If he does not heel, the pressure from the collar will make him comply. Don't slow down or wait for him, just keep walking and give him the "heel" command one more time.

If you do this a few times, your dog will learn "heel" in very short order. If you want, you can come out to my place and I'll show you. Also, most dogs understand "heel" better if you also pat the outside of your leg when you say "heel".

Good luck.


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## Springer (Dec 21, 2004)

It's a springer thing I think. Mine is the same way. She was alot better a few years ago when I was training more with her, but since then I have slacked off of her and focused on my other dog.

The patting on the leg thing is what I do also and she inadvertantly learned to come and heel with this action.

It is something that needs alot more work with these dogs than a lab I believe, or at least the lab that I had.

Good luck.


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## duketter (Nov 24, 2004)

Thanks for the advice. Let me add one thing..when I put a "choke" collar on him and walk he doesn't pull at all. Imagine that. :lol: But when I put on the regular old nylon collar, that is when he decides he "walks" me.

Maybe he is collar wise between the 2 collars? I am going to try the 180 degree turns with the regular nylon collar and go from there.


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## brianb (Dec 27, 2005)

I forgot to add one thing. Gloves. I know springer's aren't huge but they can be strong. If you have a leather leash it won't be too bad but those nylon ones are slippery.

I know, I know, I am a soft office weeny.


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## griffman (Jan 17, 2004)

I had a tough time getting Kobe's attention with heel too (maybe he's part springer :lol: ). Anyway, I might catch some hell for this but....here's what worked for me.

Once Kobe KNEW what he was supposed to do, and just decided to start getting ahead of me, he got a couple swift, sharp kicks in the chops. Not like punting a football, but forceful enough to let him know I mean business and forceful enough to only have to do it a few times....not like hitting a dog with a newspaper.

Kobe had the same problem mentioned in above posts, he'd heel great in a half hitch, with the pinch collar or e collar, but with the regular collar, he'd heel for a while then disregard the command. I knew he was disregarding the command cause he'd heel for blocks in the hitch, e collar or pinch, but only when he wanted to with the regular collar. Or, he'd just start pulling right away (excited) with the regular collar. I tried what brian b suggested (which is good advice by the way), hoping he'd "catch on"....he didn't. Kobe just didn't seem to mind getting yanked back into place all the time! He needed more force.

I don't make a habit of kicking my dog. I don't like using my hands or feet on any dog, but sometimes desperate measures are needed. This was my case.

Nowadays, if Kobe wants to pull a head of me, all I have to do is stop and slowly raise my left foot to his chin and touch it......he remembers what to do then.

Keep in mind this was done on a 2 1/2 year old dog that was going through extensive training for a utility test. The dog knew what he was supposed to do, he just decided the pressure from the regular collar was not enough of a "threat" to keep him at my knee.

Heel is a crucial command. It can be a powerful helper when needed. I often use HEEL instead of COME in certain situations. I've had times when Kobe's ignored the come command, but listened to heel.

I'm not saying a chop kick is best for everyone or all dogs. But, if all else fails, and you don't want to carry a heel stick with you all the time....


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## Bobm (Aug 26, 2003)

> I might catch some hell for this but....here's what worked for me.


I laughed outloud when I read that :lol: :lol: :lol:

Once they understand the command and you are certain they do thats exactly when to apply whatever pressure it takes to make them believe you mean it.

Aother good way to train heel is along a long chain link fence like near a school or playground, run them into the fence when they try to forge ahead.

It always comes down to making them believe you will enforce the command no matter what, just make sure they understand the command first.


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## griffman (Jan 17, 2004)

Bobm said:


> I laughed outloud when I read that :lol: :lol: :lol:


What a pal....you're laughing as I prepare for a lashing :lol:

You sure said a lot in that last post Bob. Sums it all up in short!

Dog training can be so easy at times, but yet so difficult at other times. I didn't like going through some of the "tough" training with Kobe, but now I'm glad I did. He respects me a lot more for it, as do I him.

All dogs sure are different aren't they! Funny how some dogs only need a finger shook at them and they are right at heel, while others need a 2X4! That's what I love about dogs...with every dog brings a new challenge with a different solution!


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## brianb (Dec 27, 2005)

griff,

You must be a soccer player. I don't think I would be quick enough to pull that off.

You taught the command first then reinforced it with a method that works. No problem with that.

Brian


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## CaptSanner295 (Aug 5, 2006)

Heard that if the dog does not maintain the proper heeling position use a natrural straight edge like the edge of the woods crops or even the side of a house. Walk them while giving the command heel and if the dog creeps up use your left leg and block them from walking in front of you. By using the wall or straight edge it does not let them by you and shows them, "GUESS HE DOESNT WANT ME THERE". Similar thing if they fall back too far give them a little clip with your heel or foot in the snout or chest. The book Water Dog by Richard Wolters mentioned this as a good idea to teach the correct heeling position.


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## pennsyltucky (Oct 30, 2005)

u have to be the boss all the time(at home or whenever), and not just when giving the heel command. if they feel like they are the boss, they will forge ahead, but when u are their boss, they shouldnt.

just wanted to add that.....


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