# Old Jiffy - Hard running



## PlainsmanND

I have an old jiffy 8". Its the one with the straight bar you hold and the spear tip on the auger. We had it on the farm for years and it sat - this season its mine. It was hardly used maybe half dozen holes. My question is when you start it doenst seem to run with the fuel vent open. If you leave it open you have to keep priming it to get running. I suspect that isnt proper operating?

Im wondering if it needs a cleaning, are there any guides on this available?

Thanks


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## Ron Gilmore

Sounds like it needs a good cleaning and maybe a tune up kit for the carb. First I would dump all the fuel out even if it is fresh. If it sat a long time, you can have dissolved crap in the tank that will cause you issues down the road! Get a brand new plug if it is a CJ6 Champion, upgrade to a CJ8 burns hotter but is not any longer and will not damage the top of the cylinder. Pull the bowl and needle valve off, clean well,but be mindful of the position of the needle valve and where it sits as well as watching for the spring.

I use a small pipe cleaner to remove all the build up in the opening into the manifold body. Use carb cleaner on this area well, run the pipe cleaner through it and run some more carb cleaner through the opening!

Turn your idle and power screw in and out a few times to make sure they move freely! Then turn the screws all the way in lightly then back them out 1 full turn. This will allow you to start the machine and adjust it from there. Adjustment screw closest to the motor is the power, the other is the idle.

These old engines where not designed for use with ethanol. So make sure the gas is non ethanol blend, I use the 93 octane to make sure I do not get ethanol blend, the higher octane does not add any great benefit other than that!

Tecumseh went out of business, but Oregon Mfg is making carb kits for the engines. Put two in this winter for friends and had good luck with them.


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## PlainsmanND

Thanks, I went and looked on the unit it says 670-103 on a steel tag, that is the only identificaiton I can find. Iv been searching for the correct kit for that unit but cant seem to find it. Looks like Amazon carries them once I find the right part #.

How do you set the idle and mixture once you pull the carb?

*Update*
Found the kit 631893 is my kit.

So any tips on installing and re-tuning? My plug is RJ17LM.

Do I need the kit with the plunger?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... ink:top:en


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## Plainsman

I have one just like yours. Ron's ideas were good, but my problem was the diaphragm in the fuel pump was just stiff and brittle, and tore along one edge. I went to a local engine repair here in Jamestown, and a new diaphragm cost me $3. I'm mechanically dumb, but it only took me five minutes to replace the diaphragm. However, I messed with the carb settings, idle, and every screw I could turn, so perhaps it was a combination of things. The diaphragm is cheap enough to include in your repair.


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## MOB

Definately a bad diaphragm. Not too bad to replace, just make sure to pay attention when taking apart to make sure you reasssemble correctly. The outside carb plate, gasket, spacer and diaphragm must be in the correct order.


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## PlainsmanND

Cool thanks man, should I just get a rebuild kit? As when I prime it does leak some fuel its about $20 for the rebuild kit. Or just buy the diaphram?


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## Ron Gilmore

Sorry I did not see your second question sooner. If the float is working and the rubber seat on the needle valve is good, then the diaphragm should fix it the issue. Just make sure and install it correctly. Look at how the old one is set in and put the new one in the same way. Leaking is not unusual or unexpected out the exhaust as you are pumping fuel into the cylinder and it is a two cycle. The exhaust port if not closed will cause this or it could be that your rings are gummed up a bit. I highly recommend using synthetic oils and sea foam. Many times rings will stick a bit if the engine has been sitting a long time

Otherwise the info provided should give you a good start. I might check with your local repair shop to see about the plug specs for this. A lot of the newer motors do run this plug, but then again I have seen many a small engine struggle to work with the wrong plug. If they are not hot enough or to short or even to long, to long can burn a hole in the top of the cylinder, or even hit the top and cause damage as well or close the gap up not allowing for the plug to create the proper spark level!


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## PlainsmanND

Thanks guys, I bought a rebuild kit in town at Garden Hut for $13 and its all done. I poured in a bit of gas and she fired right off. I think the diaphram was just stiff. Ill know more how it runs when I get it to the ice but at least it idles now.

I see there is a grease zirk on the bottom too, figured that must be for the gearbox. I shot a couple pumps into that how much should you pump in there?

*Update. Spoke to Jiffy they said dont lube it as the grease can make it up the spline and make the clutch slip. I pulled it apart to take a look. I think guy would have to go nuts with the grease before that happened but it all looks well. 

New carb kit, new gas cap, new fuel line. Just need to cut some holes!

Thanks again for all the help!


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## Backwater Eddy

It has a grease Zerk on the bottom?

OK..I'm Curious now? What direction does the auger rotate?

I ask because if it turns the same way as a StrikeMaster, you have a Badger Model Jiffy, the post hole auger version. Different gear box then the standard ice auger Jiffy models will have. If so, it also has a different rotation direction and cutting system.

They had a left hand and a right hand rotation model.



















You not SOL if it is a post hole Badger model, you would have the option to put a StrikeMaster lower auger on it if you wish to.


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## PlainsmanND

she spins clockwise. i recall vividly as i was kneeling adjusting the carb and darn near got sucker punched by the one armed bandit


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## PlainsmanND

she spins clockwise. i recall vividly as i was kneeling adjusting the carb and darn near got sucker punched by the one armed bandit


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## Backwater Eddy

Photo #2 is a conventional Jiffy ice auger, with counter clockwise rotation _(Left hand rotation)_.

So It matches the rotation of photo #1?

If so, #1 has clockwise rotation_(Right hand rotation)_, and is the post hole auger version.


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## PlainsmanND

I was out working this morning and looked at the auger. The screw turns counter clockwise. So Id guess its just a normal Jiffy. There is a zirk on the gearbox. Jiffy did tell me I can buy screws from them for like $75 if I did want to replace. I think if I bought a new auger Id buy one of the propane Jiffys.


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## Backwater Eddy

OK, then no worries. Actually they now make both rotations in the earth auger version. So one can now get the earth auger bit for the ice auger with counter clockwise rotation.

But the older units had the same rotation as a StrikeMaster, so that was the fix to convert them, just use a StrikeMaster auger bit system.

With that new carb kit, she will run for another 20 years.


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