# 10 gauge gold hunter jamming



## hardcorewisconsin (Sep 28, 2011)

hey wondering if anyone else has a browning 10 gauge gold hunter that has given them problems jamming? The gun is a great gun for hammering big canadas but is a pretty expensive single shot....has anyone bought that replacement part that surecycle makes? http://surecycle.com/store/pc/viewPrd.a ... category=0


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## wildrice (Sep 11, 2007)

Wiscohardcore..........have a Browning Gold 10, have had minimal jamming problems in the 10 years I've had it. Only time really is when I've used reloads, factory ammo flies right through. Have noticed if I don't keep it really clean might get shells stuck from time to time.

WR


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## Kelly Hannan (Jan 9, 2007)

check the action spring and tube to make sure they are clean and lightly lubed. You will have to remove the but stock to clean it. I had a similar issue on my Browning Silver, Win. SX3, they all are about the same


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## duckman1 (Mar 28, 2009)

be sure to clean the gas piston at the top, u half to remove the ring and clean inside it or it will not cycle, my does this after about 3 boxes, and oil the rails where the bolt slides!


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## cut'em (Oct 23, 2004)

I've gone through exactly what your going through now It would eject the spent shell out but not chamber the next round completly. I cleaned it twice as good as I could and then gave up. When I went down to the local shop to order a new one the guy told me to go home and clean it, when I told him I did twice already he said "clean it again" This is what he told me, remove the forearm and barrel, next you'll see two piston rings on the tube. It's under those where the problem lies. If you take a small screwdriver you can remove the rings, carbon builds up under them and actually holds them out just enough to slow things down. I sprayed cleaning solvent and seen the carbon fall off. I'd never seen the carbon when doing a standard cleaning. I put the gun back together and it's like new. Just make sure to take note of the direction the rings are sitting, I dont remember if the top one is crown up or crown down, like I said just make a note of which way they're positioned.
Let us know how you make out,
Cut'em


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## Ron Gilmore (Jan 7, 2003)

I have used this method for years, on Golds,Silvers Berreta Win and Beneli guns. It works.!

This is how I clean my Beretta's
This works for any Beretta auto.

Break the gun all the way down. On Xtrema's this takes less than a minute, less than 5 min with a recoil spring in the stock models.

Put the barrel, forearm and stock off to the side for awhile.

Ok, lets get out the cleaners, gun scrub or whatever you happen to like and spray the gun down real well and get the gross of the dirt off the thing. Spray down the trigger group and set it aside for a bit.

Do the same to the gas piston assy. Set it aside also.

Now get a plastic bucket, about a gallon should do it. Fill it half way with the hottest water you can get. Add a cup of 409 and dump all the small parts in it and let sit. Throw all the chokes in also.

For all you Extrema owners, listen close. This is important. The mag tube is a major problem for not getting it clean. That tube should shine when you clean it. I use a green scratchy that you clean pots and pans with. The bolt assy and the recoil spring should be soaking now but it needs to cleaned well also.

You should have the magazine spring and tube apart also. Pick up the receiver and a good stiff brush and your spray bottle of 409. Start in scrubbing the inside with the 409 and your brush. Look closely at the back of the action and if it needs to be scraped and pick out all the crap out of the bolt rails and the back of the action. It doesn't take much crap to slow the action down so look close.

A good bottle brush makes quick work out of the magazine tube. lots of crap gets in there so get it clean.

Rinse the action with hot water and set it aside. Dry it as good as you can with a dry towel.

Pick up the barrel and lets get to it. Look close at the gas ports from the barrel to the gas piston housing. They make little stainless brushes to clean those ports. Plastic from the wads will be on the inside of the holes and needs to be cleaned off. Clean you barrel however you like. Its hard chromed and is pretty easy to get cleaned.

Start pulling your small parts out of the bucket and start in on them with a brush and 409. Rinse everything with hot water and dry as well as you can.

For the guys with the recoil spring in the stock, I use a .40cal barrel brush on a cleaning rod with a drill to clean out the tube. Treat it like a barrel and keep swabbing it out till it shows clean on a cotton swab run in the tube. I use syn wheel bearing grease to lube the spring and tube. Less is better.

Use a hot blow drier to dry all the parts. Wipe down everything with a white terrycloth towel to see if you get it clean.

You need about 4 drops of oil to oil the whole action. 1 drop will be put on the carrier hinge pin on the trigger group. The trigger should be almost dry.

Put her back together and you should be good to go. Some anti seize on the choke threads is a good idea.

I have a gathered a bunch of brushes over the years that I love. Auto parts stores and auto paint stores are a great place to look.

I got my Beretta brush kit here.

http://www.gamaliel.com/cart/home.php?cat=119

I hope this helps and if you have something that works for you I would like to hear it.

-----------kevin------------


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