# Covering Up Traps........



## rangeman (Dec 7, 2006)

My experience is limited, so this may sound funny to the pros out there. The area I live in seems to be either clay soil or rock. I have been using peat moss sifted from the bale to cover my traps. It is dry and seems have little negative effects on the traps operation. I do not use any kind of pan cover but am considering this option. Does anyone have any comments or experience pro or con of this technique? Thanks!


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## M*F (Nov 3, 2006)

I dont use peat moss, but personally I hate pan covers. I use polyfil underneath the pan.


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

I use soil removed in the process of bedding the trap, as long as it's fairly dry & temps don't dip below freezing. If it's wet & temps below freezing, I use peat with a top covering of previously stored dry dirt.

I usually use waxpaper for pancovers, and occasionally coffee filters. All my traps are nitelatched, and require little pan drop before firing.

If you're not having any negative effect without pan covers.....whty change? It's one less point-of-origin for possible scent contamination.

Smitty


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

50-50 mix of pocket gopher dirt and peat moss. You could also mix in a small amount of table salt, the non-iodized stuff.

I usually pick up a couple of 5 gallon buckets of pocket gopher dirt before it gets nasty. I like using pocket gopher dirt because it already smells like a gopher. a bit less intrusive and it triggers a response. (Food)

I've used a bunch of pan cover and underalls. I've use leaves, cupcake papers, the larger ones from perkin's. wax paper and metal screaning cut to the desired shape. they all work.

as far as underalls, i've used the poly-fill, insolation, foam, cottom balls, etc.

night latching is also a great technique, even though most don't set traps at night, it is still nice to have.

xdeano


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## rangeman (Dec 7, 2006)

Thanks for the responses guys.......I was told by an old timer to use the dirt from an old hollow stump when I can find them. I am a rookie to the term nite latching (and most other trapping related matters) so somebody fill me in.......I would not say that the no pan cover technique is working completely, although I tend to catch everything but bobcats (which are thick around here) and ole Wylie. I was wondering more about the pan tension and an easy way to determine when I have it right. I have had three misses this week that I know were big animals and I need to narrow the causes. This my sound funny but I always set my mouse traps with a hair trigger, and I may have carried this over into my trapping. Some of my pan covers flop around. M*F responded last week that I may need to increase may pan tension. I am thinking that a cat steps very gingerly and may be setting the traps off before his paw bottoms out? Some of the pans seem to be laying in a slightly elevated position on one end when set, and some lay parallel with the jaws when set. Do I need to do some bending on the pans one way or another? I am using #1.75 and #2 traps, possibly another source for problems with bigger animals pulling out? I have ordered some #3 Bridgers with 4 coils, laminated, the works. I will try them as soon as I get them.


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

I've used dry dirt from barns, under bridges, even from crawlspaces, so there's an unlimited supply available.

http://malcolmhess.home.mindspring.com/triggers.htm

The above link will explain nitelatching. The 2nd pic is the most commonly used method.

To check pan tension, take a piece of 2X4" lumber & cut it until you get a piece that weighs the same as you want your tension setting. Tighten your panbolt until the trap won't fire until all the weight of the board is placed onto the pan. Hal Sullivan makes a "tester" (which I use). It's spring-loaded & marked in 1-pound increments, they run $12-14. Keep in mind setting pan tension is done AFTER you wax (or what ever manner with which you treat your traps) as this will affect tension settings.

Nothing wrong with a hair-trigger (which to me means little pan drop required to fire the trap), as long as you have the proper pan tension for the animal you intend to catch.

Yes, you want your pans setting level when the trap is set. But do a couple things 1st. Take a pair of channel lock pliers & slightly crimp the eye of the dog closed. There is too much "slop" in the eye, and the dog can actually be "drug" forward as the pan is depressed.

Also, take a flat file & square the end of the dog, as well as remove the burr (from stamping/manufacturing process) from the top of the dog (where it rides on the pan notch).

If your pan sets too high, gently bend the crossframe (at the area where the dog is attached)towards the pan. If the pan sets too low, bend the crossframe away from the pan. Remember to go easy, as alittle adjustment (bending) goes a long ways.

I have some pics posted on my site (under trap modifications on the trap Q&A board) http://smittystrapmods.proboards99.com that may be of more help as well as explaining other modifications (baseplating, jaw laminations, etc.).

Personally, I don't use smaller than a #2 for K9 (we don't have a cat season here), and will use #3's where there's less chance of fox (or free-roaming domestics). Bridgers are great traps, and are what I use. They are very similar to the old Northwoods. Don't use your new traps without adjusting them 1st. I modify & sell a few traps here & there, and they are adjusted & tuned in the process, all they need is treated.

Smitty


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## rangeman (Dec 7, 2006)

Thanks Smitty! I will fix them up.....I had three more misses today.  I have got to get this solved. Theres alot of varmints to catch. I appreciate all your help.


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