# Pet reloading habits



## Plainsman (Jul 30, 2003)

Some of us have been reloading for 40 to 50 years and others are new. Sometimes us old codgers can learn something from a fellow that has only been loading for a year or two. Everyone pops up with a good idea once in a while, and to often we think everyone else also thought of it. So what are some of the small extras some of you do when reloading. What short cuts, what improvements over the general directions in manuals.


----------



## The Norseman (Jan 8, 2005)

Thank you for starting "Ideas by Reloaders for Reloaders".

I hope sharing ideas under this Topic will help new and expericenced reloader alike. I know I for one can always learn something new to help
my reloading even though I've been doing it for years (I won't date my
self).

One tip I would like to share.

Now a days with the spray case lubes I have found that by putting the
cleaned cases in a large zip lock bag and spraying the lube inside the
bag, on to the cases, it is a lot cleaner and works great to lube.

Once you spray the lube in the bag, zip lock it shut, just work the bag
(make sure you let the air escape).

Now I don't know or have experienced it, I do not think the lube effects
the velocity. If anyone has had this happen please let us know.

:wink:


----------



## .17remman (Dec 7, 2004)

In my experience, if the case lube gets in the primer pocket, it can cause erratic velocities,especially in calibers using small rifle primers. I use a product called One Shot and just spray the cases while they are in the loading block. I usually spray 10 at a time because this lubricant evaporates and does not leave a residue, so you have to put them through the sizing die within 2 to 3 minutes after spraying.
Another thing that I always do when reloading is to clean the primer pockets of the brass. It seems to keep the velocity spread a little closer on most of my rifles. I do this with a .22 caliber bore brush, and just turn it in the pocket once or twice and they shine like new.

This is a good topic and I hope to see more personal input into it.


----------



## The Norseman (Jan 8, 2005)

Yes, thank you. I should expound on this.

That is only one of the steps, by the time I'm ready to prime and drop
powder the cases have been wiped off, inspected (looked over several
times).

Thank you. As new reloaders can see, reloading can be complex, but
always be picky about any thing in the process.

Safety comes first.

I will post my procedures/order to reload from another post. Will be back.


----------



## The Norseman (Jan 8, 2005)

This is the order of reloading I use,

De-prime (Lee depriming tool and mallet) 
clean primer cavity (Lee primer pocket cleaner/scraper)
throw in polisher 
clean off (soft old cloth of some type and inspect for cracks,splits,dents)
lube 
re-size 
expand case mouth (if pistol case) 
check for length very important (pistol/rifle)
trim if necessary 
prime (inspect flash hole, clean if needed) 
pour powder (totally focused) 
seat bullet 
crimp if necessary 
record info (always)
store (cool, dry place)

Reloading for straight wall pistol cases is easiest.

Good luck


----------



## Plainsman (Jul 30, 2003)

I have a little different order that I reload, and I will tell you why.

My first step is polish (don't have media in primer hole this way)
Use a piano wire to check for insipient head separation 
Trim ( I trim .010 short at this step. I do it before sizing because I don't want the power trimmer to misalign or deform the neck. When I resize the neck comes forward .010 inch.)
Check brass for other things like cracked neck etc
Debur case mouth
Lube
Resize
Wipe dry of lube
Use ball needle (push through primer hole) and compressor to blow media from inside case
Prime (throw away any brass with loose pockets)
Drop powder
Trickle on scale with RCBS Powder Pro
Seat bullet
Record info


----------



## Burly1 (Sep 20, 2003)

I like to polish the cases before I do anything else. After I have lubed, sized and deprimed, trimmed and champfered the case mouths, and cleaned the primer pockets, I'll clean the cases again, using a can of cob media that I keep for just that purpose. This seems to remove all the lube, both inside and outside the cases. Of course you then have to make sure the flash hole is clear before priming. I don't mind the extra steps necessary in doing this. Many times I'll do quite a few different calibers then tumble them all together the second time, as it's necessary to handle them all individually anyway. I use a hand primer, usually in front of the TV, and might do several different calibers at that time also. When everything is ready for powder and bullets, I load. If I don't have time to load everything right away, I'll seal the primed cases in foodsaver bags. I have kept primed cases for three years this way and they stay just as shiny as the day they were stored. If I ever get far enough ahead in my loading, I intend to seal loaded rounds in foodsaver bags also. The foodsaver is also a good way to store cans of powder that have been opened, and primers as well. This can be especially important if your powder magazine is in an out building, without temperature or humidity control, as mine is. Burl


----------



## skruske (Feb 25, 2005)

I typically load 50 to 100 rounds at a time. After I've filled all the cases with powder I look in every case to make sure all have similar amounts in them. Sad to say :eyeroll: on more than one occation, this little habit has proven beneficial when I've found that I've somehow skipped putting powder in one case in the tray.

My order for reloading

Tumble for about 1 hour
Lube & decap and inspect
Tumble (usually only 30min)
Check for length in Wilson case gauge
Prime
Charge with powder
Seat bullets
Crimp (if needed)


----------



## Nate (Sep 11, 2003)

ALWAYS do a visual inspection on new brass, looking inside each piece of brass. I weigh each and every piece of new brass. I saved my bacon by dong this, I found a curly shaving inside one of the cases once by weighing them...


----------

