# Sticky  Fur handling tips



## ND trapper (Nov 14, 2006)

If you have a tip for putting up fur lets hear it. Maybe we can all learn something from each other that will put a little extra cash in our fur checks. Pictures are most welcome. Thanks!


----------



## M*F (Nov 3, 2006)

Wash your fur. Especially coyotes and badgers. It makes a world of difference.

If nothing else your buyer will appreciate the non-smell :wink:


----------



## Snowshark (Jan 31, 2007)

Buy a fur brush! Even if you are selling inthe round use it. 
I watched a buyer tell a guy he wouldn't take 3 of his yotes. They had been worked over by the dogs and i know if he had dryed and brushed them out he probably would have gotten a decent price for them.


----------



## carp_killer (Nov 24, 2006)

use wood strechers you can get more length out of the hide and it makes the hide look "fuller" wires are fine for rats but i wouldnt reccomend them for anything else if you do use wires though for anything use closepins to hod the hide down for rats clip one at the nose and 2 at the bottom one on each side because the hides are measured from the nose to the shortest point at the bottom


----------



## M*F (Nov 3, 2006)

Snowshark brought up an excellent point with the brushes. If you're putting up your fur its VERY important to make sure you combed out any burrs before you start fleshing. If your fleshing knife finds the burr it will rip the pelt to shreads. Comb those burrs out!


----------



## ND trapper (Nov 14, 2006)

Good point about the burrs M*F. Small rocks or pebbles should also be removed before fleshing as they can cause the same problems that burrs do.


----------



## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

As mentioned, I'll deburr & brush-out all my critters before skinning. I use a utility knive with a hooked-style (roofing) blade for opening cuts on ****, it's quick & easy, plus when the blade dulles, flip it over or replace it......but it'll last a long time. Take your time when skinning-out the head, buyers "shouldn't" dock you for big-eyed '****, but taking care shows you pay extra attention to detail & will help you overall. I cut alittle towards the belly, as this will add fur to the backside of the hide once on the stretcher.

If you don't have a tail stripper & tail zipper, spend the $3 each & buy them (or a couple of each), they're worth their weight in gold. Same goes with skinning knives, have extras so you don't have to stop & sharpen a single knife when it dulls. Blade on bone will dull a knife quickly, so learn how to sharpen them.

Before fleshing ****, I'll leave them in the 'fridge overnight, or in the freezer for 20 minutes before fleshing. This will solidify the fat to a point where it isn't "liquid", and will flesh much neater & cleaner.

When I flesh my ****, I start by fleshing the tail & the bottom 4-6" , then return to the top & flesh down, when you reach the bottom the fat will fall off the pre-fleshed area & save greasing-up the bottom of the fur.

A "necker" type knife is needed to remove the grissle from the ears to mid-back around the shoulders. Once fleshed, hold it by the nose & flip it a time or 2 to remove any loose fat.

I use wood stretchers, they're all marked with sizes on them so I know how close (or how far) to the next size-grade I am. Be sure the hide is centered on the board. I skirt all my ****, meaning the bottom edge of the hide is straight across, and not high at the hips. I also shorten & pleat the tails as I pin them. Doesn't pay more to pleat, but makes them look better, again.....remember the big-picture. Before adding a belly-wedge, I trim the inspection window on the belly. I have holes drilled in the bottoms of my **** boards, and hang them nose-down. This will keep the grease that'll seep-out from running to the bottom-edge & into the fur & tail. Wipe the grease off everyday with rags or dry crumpled newspaper.

Drying times depends on temp & humidity level of your drying area. 55-60* is plenty, and less is OK, run a boxfan to circulate air, but not directly on your furs. A dehumidifier helps too.

Smitty


----------



## Snowshark (Jan 31, 2007)

When washing out hides put some fabric softener in the water. The hair will be softer and smell good too.


----------



## barebackjack (Sep 5, 2006)

If your shooting things, KEEP EM CLEAN. Dont throw shot dogs into the back of the truck, they freeze down and youll pull alot of hair off getting em back up. Dont pile em, they bleed on each other and if warm enough, spoil faster.
A sled with a little snow in it will keep em from freezing down and soak up and freeze the blood faster resulting in cleaner pooches for yourself or the furbuyer.


----------



## ND trapper (Nov 14, 2006)

If you have to put your catch in the back of the pickup lay some cardboard down first. That way if the blood from the hair freezes down you can just grab the cardboard and animal together and thaw in your garage. It also keeps the back of your truck cleaner.


----------



## nidahotrapper (Sep 27, 2009)

i wash all my ***** before and after i flesh them in a 1 cup of dawn dish soap to 4 gallons of water mixture.Gets most of the oils out of the fur, leaves the fur feeling soft too wen dry.


----------



## mburgess (Aug 11, 2003)

Plug bullet holes after they've been shot with some paper towels and it gets the blood to coagulate faster keeping the hides from getting real bloody.


----------



## plentycoupe (Feb 24, 2012)

For those of you that use boards please tell me how you make them. Input up the first coyote I shot and got her stuck on the board. I did not plane it to. 1/2 inch which I think was my first mistake. 
If you would just go over your board dimensions and how to use the belly wedge and size I would appreciate all your info. 
I will only be putting up coyotes. 
Thanks 
Jason


----------

