# Ground Blind



## NE ND Wingmaster (Jul 21, 2009)

I am new to bowhunting, and am scouting some different areas. I don't plan to use a stand just yet, as I am learning some areas to hunt. I am wondering if I should use a ground pop-up blind to start with or go with a stalk strategy. Thanks.


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## barebackjack (Sep 5, 2006)

Considering your a newbie, id go with a blind. Stalking is what you might call a "veteran" level tactic. Not to say it cant be done, its just really hard on beginners that havent developed the patience bowhunting demands.

Even if your a seasoned gun hunter, bowhunting is a whole different beast. A ground blind will give you some added protection when you have animals danger close, than you can see just how youll react. Theyll also contain your scent somewhat, and hide any excessive movement and slight noises you might make the first few times the adrenaline gets a pumpin.

I would of course strongly suggest taking to the trees though. Not only is it probably the single most effective way to hunt deer in the woods, IMO blind hunting whitetails is a pain in the rear. In most places where they get pressured, they will shy away from blinds that arent brushed in VERY well and blinds that havent been left to out for weeks or months for them to acclimate to. I dont know about you, but even on private posted ground, I cant sleep at night with a couple hundred dollar blind sitting out.


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## buckseye (Dec 8, 2003)

I started with just waiting for one to walk by on their way to feed. Don't wait for a big buck, just shoot at every deer until you get one.


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## NE ND Wingmaster (Jul 21, 2009)

Thanks for the replies. I figured the first year would be a learning year. Learning how to pattern, bedding areas, food, etc. I love to gun hunt, but want a new challenge and just the opportunity to hunt more!

What does everyone recommend for scent control. Product in the stores or homemade versions?

Thanks again.


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## barebackjack (Sep 5, 2006)

NE ND Wingmaster said:


> What does everyone recommend for scent control. Product in the stores or homemade versions?
> 
> Thanks again.


Save your money and hunt the wind.


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## snow123geese (Feb 3, 2008)

Scent killer from Wildlife Research Center works really well. I usually get the autumn formula because it works well as a masking scent and a scent eliminator.


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## Bug Guy (Jul 19, 2009)

Welcome to the sport wingmaster. First of all, if you are truely new to bowhunting, then learning to understand the wind and all it's fickleness is part of the skills necessary to bowhunting. Mastering the use of wind to your advantage is as important as identifying deer sign, trail identification, and stand location. It's a complete package. Getting to within bow range of a deer is a challenge and one mistake can oftentimes ruin an opportunity. As far as setup goes, all you really need is a bow and some arrows. The rest depends on your budget. My first 3 deer with a bow were shot just leaning up against a tree within bow range of a good trail. No blind, tree stand, or covering scents. In fact, one of those deer was taken while I wore blue jeans, a checkered long sleeve shirt, and tennis shoes. I was always downwind of the deer. If you stay still, and downwind of the deer, they will never smell you. The best advice I can give you is to find a more experienced bow hunter and talk bow hunting. There is no substitute for experience. Good luck and most of all have fun. :beer:


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## huntin1 (Nov 14, 2003)

Cover scents are worthless, except to move money from your pocket to someone elses. You cannot fool a deer's nose. Consider all of the tactics that drug dealers use to fool drug sniffing dogs, they fail. A deers nose is quite a bit more sensitive that a dogs.

I agree with BBJ, hunt the wind, still huntwith the wind in your face, and set your blinddownwind of whatever trail you watch.

Blinds are great, they can be used in areas that have few trees, and you can get away with some movement inside. Just brush them in. And don't be afraid to use a natural blind made from fallen branches etc. they can work well too. I use an Ameristep Intimidator and like it very well.

But, for bowhunting, tree stands still rule. 8)

Good Luck!!

huntin1


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## Colt (Oct 25, 2007)

Don't waste your money on cover scents or scentloc suites. Also, take note that camo is a racket (with the exception of wearing white with snow). Often times, the darker camo will make you like like a black blob in the trees.

If you do get a ground blind, practice shooting out of it A LOT. Practice wearing dark colored gloves. wear those gloves when hunting. If you're spotted, most liklely they saw movement from your hands. It is completely different than practicing standing up. If you plan on shooting mechanical broadheads, take note that the blades may open as soon as they go through the shoot through mesh.

Also, I kill animals every year with longbows ranging in draw weight of 45-50#. I get complete pass throughs with this. Having said that, rest assured if you were shooting the same weight with a compound, you too would get pass throughs. The reason why that is important is, if you are shooting a lower weight, chances are you will be more accurate and it will be easier to draw in a sitting position, and with bunches of clothes on during cold weather. YOU DO NOT NEED YOUR BOW SET AT 70#.

Bow hunting is a special sport. It is a up close beat their noses by hunting the wind kinda thing. Don't get discouraged if you don't fill any tags right away.

Good luck


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## barebackjack (Sep 5, 2006)

Colt said:


> YOU DO NOT NEED YOUR BOW SET AT 70#.


Correct. But having the extra oomph is sure nice on less than ideal hits that hit alot of bone. Lets face it, all things equal, a 70 lb bow will smash through alot more than a 60.

I say shoot the heaviest weight you can comfortably handle. Whether it be 40 lbs or 70 lbs. By comfortable, I mean you dont have to grunt and contort to reach full draw, and you can hold it back for 20-30 seconds without shaking like a recovering alcoholic.


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## Colt (Oct 25, 2007)

Bareback is right. If you can handle 70#, go for it. I didn't mean to imply that you should not.

Listen, the other thing we need to talk about are broadheads. If you are going to use mechanicals, you probably will want to shoot a heavier poundage to get the higher KE needed.

If you are going to shoot a lower poundage, say 60# or less, you probably should use a fixed blade.

I have hit both antelope and deer in the shoulders with a 50# longbow and still broke bone and hit vitals. I have never lost an animal. My wooden arrows average 500+ grains and I use a Magnus 2 blade. So by having a heavier arrow, and the best broadhead in the world, I'm able to break bone.

More and more guys I know are buying new compounds that are the 50#-60# range and a lot of my traditional buddies are putting away those 60# longbows and recurves and going back to the 50# range. There is a reason for that.

Bareback is also correct about hunting in the trees. I feel that is more effective than a ground blind for deer. Either that thing has to be so heavily brushed you don't need the blind afterall, or it has to be left out there the whole time and well in advance.

Stalking is a lot of fun, but a whole different ball game. I have killed lots of animals this way, but mostly antelope and mule deer. Something about sneaking up on a whitetail............tough to do when you want to. Problem is, you might educate those deer to the point where they become unhuntable. Depending on your situation, of course. And that's the biggest key in hunting whitetails. DON'T EVER, EVER, EVER, let them know you are or were there. If you fail in that aspect, you will rarely fill an archery tag.


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## Chuck Smith (Feb 22, 2005)

My rule of thumb is if the deer looks at you while you are in the tree....ie busting you.....kill it ASAP. Otherwise everytime it goes by that area (if it will still use it) it will look right at that tree.


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## NE ND Wingmaster (Jul 21, 2009)

Thanks for all the replies. I currently have my bow set at 70#, but for me (short arms and broad shoulders), it seems fine. I can pull back with little effort and hold for a few seconds without shaking. Should I leave it or go down to 60# if it is confortable? Thanks for the scent control advice. I plan to hunt from a stand eventually, but I plan to start on public land, so I don't want to leave a stand or blind for that matter in the woods for someone else to take.

I like the challenge of sneaking up on a deer, whether it's trophy or a nice dow, and I forsee this year as a learning year, and wont' be disappointed if I don't fill my tag.


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## HUNTNFISHND (Mar 16, 2004)

NE ND Wingmaster said:


> I currently have my bow set at 70#, but for me (short arms and broad shoulders), it seems fine. I can pull back with little effort and hold for a few seconds without shaking. Should I leave it or go down to 60# if it is confortable?


I mainly stand hunt so I like my bow set at about 50# because when the temp drops and you sit for awhile a heavy bow will be a chore to draw. Kind of depends on how and when your going to be hunting, if you are stalking or hunting in september or october, 70# would probably be fine. If your going to be stand hunting in november or december then I would suggest turning your bow down to a more comfortable draw weight.

Everybody hunts different and likes different things. It's wise to use this year as a learning year and not set your hopes too high for a kill. Heck, I didn't even shoot the first couple years after I started, and took about four years to get my first bow killed deer. Bowhunting is the ultimate challenge and extremely rewarding when you do finally connect. Good luck!

:2cents:


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## barebackjack (Sep 5, 2006)

NE ND Wingmaster said:


> Thanks for all the replies. I currently have my bow set at 70#, but for me (short arms and broad shoulders), it seems fine. I can pull back with little effort and hold for a few seconds without shaking. Should I leave it or go down to 60# if it is confortable? Thanks for the scent control advice. I plan to hunt from a stand eventually, but I plan to start on public land, so I don't want to leave a stand or blind for that matter in the woods for someone else to take.
> 
> I like the challenge of sneaking up on a deer, whether it's trophy or a nice dow, and I forsee this year as a learning year, and wont' be disappointed if I don't fill my tag.


As far as your weight is concerned, I would practice with all my gear on and practice from different positions, sitting, kneeling, crouched, etc etc. Heavy clothes, gloves, and goofy positions, and many other "hunting situations" can make 70 lbs feel like 75. If your still comfortable with the weight, than by all means shoot it.

Also, many bows perform better towards their maximum weight than towards their minimum weight (although not always true). If I was going to shoot 60 lbs, I would shoot a 50-60 lb bow. Not a 60-70. Their also usually much quieter when their maxed out.

My other piece of advice is go out and get a second doe tag and kill the first doe that offers a good shot. Get a kill under your belt and "out of your system" so to speak, youll learn alot about how you react with an animal you know you want to try to kill.


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## NE ND Wingmaster (Jul 21, 2009)

I was planning on getting a additional doe tag to have that option has well. I also have a gun buck tag this year, so hopefully I will be filling some tags.

Can't wait!


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