# Bait station



## kwas (Feb 20, 2007)

A friend of mine gave me a hit deer (he is a COP) and I picked it up for a bait station for coyote. I put it in the thickest brush thicket I could find and maid 3 trails about the size of my snare leading to it. I set up 5 snares 5-7 yards of the carcass its been 2 1/2 weeks not one coyote has come. I did notice a set of tracks going tward the bait but the darn yot stopped right at the snare and turned around. I took down my snares today and going to let the yotes come in and get comfortable before resetting the snares and just stay away from the area for a week. Its been so cold with snow does anyone know why they havent ate any? Could thay not smell it cause its been so cold? Did I put it in to thick of a spot and they wont go in their cause not even the hawks or crows have been their. Should I move the deer to a new location? I WILL CATCH A YOTE I ORDERD TWO TRAPPING DVDS HALF DOZEN VICTOR 3# TRAPS AND ALL THE OTHER STUFF I WILL NEED. I AM HOOKED AFTER CATCHING MY FIRST RED FOX IN A SNARE 4 WEEKS AGO. [/b]


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

Coyote don't like having their view restricted (brushpiles, tall weeds. etc.). Their keen eyesite plays a key role in their survival & those who live past their 1st year or two won't compromise their lives for a meal.

Couple questions....are you sure there are coyote in your area, and did you boil your snares in baking soda before setting them?

Smitty


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## kwas (Feb 20, 2007)

Yes their are coyotes I see their tracks, scent post where they are marking and I have heard them. The snares were not boiled but were set out last year for quite some time. The new snares I bought this year I did boil in wood ashes. So should I move deer you think?


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## Mongojoe (Nov 2, 2006)

Smitty is right about coyotes not liking to be "crowded"... I would suggest that you place the draw in a more open area where you have seen their tracks..... Whenever possible, I never try to "draw" an animal off their normal line of travel. I like to make my sets as close to where they normally travel as I can. This way there is no way they can avoid noticeing it... Just like with setting up a business, the easier you make it for them to find, the more "customers" you will have.


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## Trapper62 (Mar 3, 2003)

Yep, move it as stated above. That deer won't smell much in the deepfreeze but once your magpies/crows find it thier ruckus will attract the coyotes.

At my stations I always let the coyotes find it first showing me where to set the snares. I would set your snares back farther from the bait as well, coyotes get more warry as they get closer to a bait. Set back about 50-75 feet or further and you should be fine.

Good Luck!


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

Well...... patience, determination, and paying attention is what will catch coyotes. You can buy all the traps you want & watch all the DVDs on the market, neither of which will promise you a coyote in your traps.

Only reason I'm mentioning this is so you won't get discouraged after receiving your new items. There's alot off great guys on here with alot of experience behind them.....don't hesitate in asking questions.

Smitty


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## poutpro (Mar 8, 2006)

I'm by no means an expert, but if you see their scent post, whats wrong with trapping it? Put some dog pee on it and let the see who is invading their territory.


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## carp_killer (Nov 24, 2006)

when you get your #3s do what poutpro said i would move your deer closer to were they travel as well you could always put a couple of those #3s around your deer as well


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

I'm going to side with everyone else, move the deer. I would also take an axe and cut the deer in half or thirds and distribute it in different areas that look too. Coyotes tend to not want to eat on a carcase that isn't opened up. Don't get me wrong they will eat at it, but if you open it up they will eat it quicker.
xdeano


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## kwas (Feb 20, 2007)

Thanks for the input guys Ill get the tractor out and move the deer tomorrow. And chop him in half for another station since I have a dozen snares boiled and ready to go. The weather broke today 40 degrees and I have alot of work to do to get my new traps started. I watched the vidioes and It taught the basics in the first series. It answered alot of questions so I don't have to ask you guys a million questions. I believe it will get me started and much more success than if I did not buy them. The vidioes were fur fish and game (Professional coyote trapping, and Professional predator trapping volume II)


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## beaver/otter trapper (Feb 5, 2007)

can you use anything for a bate station like otter carcasas and beaver meat and what about bobcat meat or **** meat or dead birds


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## kwas (Feb 20, 2007)

kwas said:



> Thanks for the input guys Ill get the tractor out and move the deer tomorrow. And chop him in half for another station since I have a dozen snares boiled and ready to go. The weather broke today 40 degrees and I have alot of work to do to get my new traps started. I watched the vidioes and It taught the basics in the first series. It answered alot of questions so I don't have to ask you guys a million questions. I believe it will get me started and much more success than if I did not buy them. The vidioes were fur fish and game (Professional coyote trapping, and Professional predator trapping volume II)


 I make my own luck


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## carp_killer (Nov 24, 2006)

beaver/otter trapper said:


> can you use anything for a bate station like otter carcasas and beaver meat and what about bobcat meat or **** meat or dead birds


 if it is legal in your state it would work i eat my beaver so i have never tried that


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## younghunter (Dec 17, 2006)

beaver does work very good. My best bet is if you put the carcuss in an area and made the trails the coyote is not gunna go casue they absolutly hate being pushing if they fell they are hen the just stay away. we pick up deer to my uncles got it with police to call him to pick it up and he tries to get all the dead cows he can from neighbors. I'd move the deer to a spot got a lil bit of buck brush and some trees a place where there guna be going and leave it there. check it everyday with snares ready and when they start in on it u can usaslly tell where there going and coming so then you put your snares there so as they dont think of it to much if it a open trail then cut some lil limbs and put around snare to break it up but make sure uyou dont step or near on the trail that will make them just stop in their tracks and think about it. This is what we go about using it works great we catch 40 coyotes ayear probably.


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## LAtrapper (Feb 5, 2007)

anyone else have alot of trouble reading that?


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## younghunter (Dec 17, 2006)

HAHA yea i am and i wrote it. Ill do better this time.

I would move the deer to a location with some buck brush, and let it sit till they find it then i would set snares around the bait where they are coming and going.

Sorry there about the first time I wrote it.


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## Mongojoe (Nov 2, 2006)

Something else I might throw in here...something I have done in the past with good results... The mentioning of beaver above, made me think of it.....

But I occasionally would take a carcass from a blanket beaver, after it was skinned and the glands I wanted to save were removed, if I did not chunk it out for bait, or give it to the dogs..... At a two-track road that I was trapping on, especially thru a wooded area, I would tie the carcass to the back of my truck, and drag it a few hundred yards, particularly if there were a number of trails that came into this two-track at various places... Then I would drag it about half way back along the "drag trail", untie it from the truck, stake it down to keep it from being drug off...and make a few sets around it (keeping several yards from the carcass itself to avoid the birds and most of the possums and skunks). I would also make a few sets along the drag trail............ Now, I have never done this with a deer, but I would assume that it would work too.


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