# Figuring out my seating depth



## specialpatrolgroup (Jan 16, 2009)

So tonight I have been playing with the Hornady OAL tool, the problem is, unless you have supreme control on the amount of pressure you use to push out the bullet, results vary. By far the majority of my results were in the .74 - .75 range, here are those results. So the mean is 748.9, the median is 748. So if I seat my bullet 30 hundredths shorter, I should seat to 718 on the ogive. However if I do that, my OAL to the tip of the bullet measures 3.243 and the OAL listed in my Hornady manual is 3.210 if you look at the picture that doesn't bring the rim to the cannelure. So my question is, is this right, or was I putting too much pressure on the OAL tool and pushing the bullet too far into the lands? Before this I was just seating to the bottom of the cannelure. I did see if I could chamber the round and I was able to.

Bullet was a .270 130gr Interlock, gun was a browning a-bolt.

2.741
2.743
2.745
2.746
2.747
2.747
2.749
2.752
2.753
2.753
2.753
2.758


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## People (Jan 17, 2005)

That sounds pretty solid to me. I have also noticed there is some variation when testing with a tool like that. I stopped using mine and now I just take a casing and cut the neck into four petals and soft seat a bullet in and then close the bolt gently on it. Then very carefully open the bolt and guide the round out with my finger. I still get some variation but it seems more consistent for me. All factory rifles have a long lead. If they fit in the mag I would try them. Your rifle will tell you if it likes those bullets at that length.

When in a bar, you can order a drink called a "Chuck Norris". It is also known as a "Bloody Mary", if your name happens to be Mary.


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## specialpatrolgroup (Jan 16, 2009)

Thanks, Ill give it a try this Friday.


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## huntin1 (Nov 14, 2003)

I don't pay much attention to what the book says about the cartridge OAL. The Berger VLD's that I just worked up are seated .004 off the lands, the average OAL is 2.885, the "book" says that the OAL of a .308 should be 2.80. In most rifles my rounds would not fit in the magazine much less the chamber. They work well in my Savage. Which ever method you use, either the OAL gauge or the case with the neck cut, you'll be better off than if you worry about what the book says your OAL should be.

That is what reloading has over factory ammo, you can tailor the load to your specific rifle, instead of making it so that it will work in them all.

huntin1


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## Savage260 (Oct 21, 2007)

I would say keep using the OAL gauge, but work on your technique. I usually dont get any more than a couple thousanths variation when I use mine, and when I get more I can really tell that I pushed too hard. I usually tap lightly with the pad of my index finger instead of a solid push. Were you using the same bullet for every measurement?


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

I've always done it the same way that People explained. It has always worked well for me.

Just take a fired brass, fl resize (to remove primer and to give you neck tension). Then take the smallest cut off wheel that you can find for a dremel and cut your neck and half of your shoulder. This will give you decent bullet retention without haveing the bullet fall out or move on you. It works.

xdeano


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## specialpatrolgroup (Jan 16, 2009)

The instructions said use 2-4 pounds of pressure, I did my best to guess what that was. most of the time the bullet came out with the tool, a couple times it had to be pushed out with a cleaning rod, the instrucitons said that would most likly happen. When I go home I will try the trick you guys are sugesting, take a hacksaw and cut down teh length of the neck, partially seat a bullet and slowly close the bolt. I assume you cant have too much tention or the bullet would get stuck in the rifling, and use this to verify my results with the OAL tool and report my findings.


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## Savage260 (Oct 21, 2007)

I would say 2-4lbs is too much, way too much. I tap the end of the plastic rod as lightly as I can until I just feel slight resistance, then tap once more. Most of the time tipping the muzzle skyward and a shake is all it takes for the bullet to come out, some times a slap to the side of the action is needed, but very rarely.


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## specialpatrolgroup (Jan 16, 2009)

So I took a case, cut slits down the neck into the shoulder, sanded the outside of the cuts down to 320 grit to remove any burs, then I sacrificed a bullet to lap the inside of the case neck. I then took a different bullet, seated it long, and pushed it into the chamber as far as I could with my bolt. The results where +/- .003 of .750, I think I did it 3-4 times. So that makes me feel better since I figured 748 with the Hornady tool. All the cartridges I loaded I seated to 715, so .035 short instead of .02 since I wasn't confident in my results before and wanted to error on the side of safety, but really for a hunting rifle, that should be sufficient. Thanks for all your help everybody, now it's time to go throw some lead downrange after work!


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## xdeano (Jan 14, 2005)

Works pretty well doesn't it? :wink: For a hunting rifle you'll be fine. If it's a factory rig a jump wont hurt them a bit.

xdeano


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