# First Aid Kits



## BirdJ (Aug 24, 2011)

Just wondering if you make up your own first aid kit for your dogs or do you buy the compleat kits that companys sell? If you make up your own? What do you throw in there? I have some basics but was wondering what you put in yours. Thanks


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## blhunter3 (May 5, 2007)

Super glue, rubbing alcohol, strips of a towl.


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## bisontraks (Dec 22, 2006)

Here is a list of items I have put together from several different forums. Scheel's currently has their dog supplies on sale this week for a starter bag.

Container 
Tackle box... they come in many sizes and types... My suggestion would be, pick one you think is a little larger than you think you will ever need.

Warning: 
NEVER give ibuprofen (Nuprin, Motril, Advil, etc.) to a dog. Ibuprofen is very toxic and fatal to dogs at low doses. Tylenol/acetaminophen is toxic to the liver. Aspirin/buffered aspirin/Ascriptin is safe for dogs and minimizes any stomach irritations.

Contents of the First-Aid Kit

Bandages: 
Triangular Bandages. These are large bandages and have many uses, ie, sling, tie up a limb, hold a splint on... (about 50 cents each!) 
Cotton gauze bandage wrap, 1" & 2" widths 
Vet Wrap, 2" & 4" width 
roll cotton batting 
First-aid tape 
Paper tape (1") 
Ace bandage 
Sterile gauze dressing pads 3" x 3" or 4" x 4" 
Regular & Butterfly Band-Aids 
Q-Tips 
New-Skin liquid bandage 
Super Glue

Solutions/Ointments: 
Eye-rinsing solution (saline solution) 
Small bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide 
Alcohol, 90% 
Panalog 
Ear-cleaning solution, I use Alcohol and water 50/50 
D5W (Dextrose 5% with Water) with an administration set... Excess fluid loss is death, i.e., excess blood loss, or diarrhea, especially in a young dog. 
Epsom salts 
Gentocin topical spray or a hydrocortisone topical spray Activated charcoal tabs (to absorb stomach material after induced vomiting) 
Rescue Remedy 
Pepto-Bismol tablets 
Imodium (Loperamide HCL)

Antibiotics: 
Antibiotic ointment for eyes 
Antibiotic ointment for skin (Triple Antibiotic ointment) 
Ben-Pen... very good broad spectrum, long acting antibiotic. SubQ administration 1cc/20# 
Specific medications your dog may need 
(allergies, seizures, heart, thyroid)

Cleaning: 
Betadine solution for fresh cuts (dilute) 
Alcohol swabs 
Benadryl or similar antihistamine 
Hot spot remedy 
Bottle (small) of antibacterial soap

Instruments and related items: 
Scalpel, with varied blades 
Lidocane, 2% 
Sutures, 2-0 with curved 13mm, 3/8 circle, reverse cutting needle. Always use a curved, (triangular) reverse cutting needle for dogs. The reverse curve cuts on the outside (dog side) of the curve so you don't tend to cut up through the margin. The 3/8 by 13mm with 2-0, 18" long, blue polypropylene, nonabsorbable is good, non-reactive sutures. (if you haven't learned to tie sutures, a Weck Visistat Skin Stapler works great. Very fast, easy to use. Don't forget a staple remover!) 
Needle holders with built in scissors (Olsen-Hegar) 
Velcro muzzle(you can also use gauze roll) 
Sterilized clear plastic IV tubing in small segments for ear hematoma 
Small, blunt-end scissors 
Small pointed scissors 
Tweezers= Straight forceps 
Hemostats= hinged forceps, normal and 5'' alligator for foxtail removal, ears/nose. Normal for pulling ticks, thorns, large splinters, cactus needles, and porcupine quills) 
Suture removal scissors... very handy for getting them out 
Towel clamps (4) great to keep an area clean while putting in sutures. I use paper towels and just clamp them together

Handy Items: 
SAM Splint (This is a flexible splint that rolls up a bit larger than a pack of cigs and is very cheep. "Everyone should own 2 ) 
Matches or Bic lighter 
small hand towels 
Small and larger flashlight 
Magnifying reading glasses... 
Electric Fur clippers... VERY IMPORTANT... Hard to tend a wound with fur all over it. 
Digital thermometer, with tip covers (Normal temperature for a dog is 100.5°-102.5°C) 
Latex Exam Gloves... many uses! 
Wet Ones (disposable moist towelettes) 
Instant ice packs (2) 
Shoestring (tourniquet) Tourniquets are quite dangerous and I will have more on this later. Never use a Tourniquet with snake bite. 
Large plastic bag (zip lock type) to hold water. 
Iodine tablets 
Safety pins in several sizes 
Space blanket 
Ruler, etc., something straight, strong and light, to be used as a splint. You must prevent a compound fracture from flopping around and doing vascular/nerve damage before it can be repaired. 
Sugar Cubes- great for hypoglycemia. (low blood sugar) Some dogs are able to work themselves into a low blood sugar state. Simple sugar is a redi fix.

Syringes: 
1cc 
3cc with 5/8 #25g needles for subQ injections and lidocane infusion, or subQ antibiotics. 
10cc 
Syringe w/o needle (for administering liquid medicines orally, 
putting ear-drying solution into ears, rinsing wounds)

Where Do I Get These Items? 
Almost all these supplies can be purchased at a drug store (I buy sample sizes) or through a dog supply catalogs such as Foster & Smith or Omaha Vaccine that offer medical and first-aid supplies. Some items must be purchased through your veterinarian. Others can be obtained in feed store. Anything else... the internet of course!

Special Needs: 
If you live in an area that has snakes, be sure to include a snake bite kit (especially if you are a tracker!) 
If your dog has severe allergies to bee stings ask your veterinarian for any emergency medications that you might need in an emergency.

Serious Injuries: 
If your dog has been seriously injured, the items in the first-aid kit are meant to be used until you can get your dog to your veterinarian or an emergency clinic. Do not take chances!

Restocking: 
Go through your kit at least once a year (twice if in a hot climate) and check expiration dates. Be sure all the medications and supplies are labeled with their name and expiration date. Replace anything that has exceeded its recommended expiration date. Replenish any supplies that are low.

Suggestion: 
Tape a card to the inside of the box lid with a list of common medications and the specific dosages for the weights of your own dogs. For example:

Benadryl: 1-2 mg per lb. every 8 hrs. (60-lb. dog, 2-4 25mg tablets every 8 hrs.) 
Aspirin: 5mg per lb. every 12 hrs. (one 300mg tablet per 60-lb. dog every 12 hrs.) 
Hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting: 1-3 tsp. every 10 min. until dog vomits. 
Pepto-Bismol: 1 tsp. per 5 lb. per 6 hrs. (3-4 tbsp. per 60-lb. dog per 6 hrs.) 
Kaopectate: 1 ml per lb. per 2 hrs. (3-4 tbsp. per 60-lb. dog per 2 hrs.) 
Imodium: 1mg per 15 lbs., 1-2 times daily 
Mineral oil (as a laxative): 5-30 ml per day; do not use long-term 
I also like to write dosages on the label in permanent marker.

Suggested Reading: 
Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook, by D.G. Carlson and J.M. Giffin, Howell Book House, 1980, ISBN 0-87605-764-4.

The Merck Veterinary Manual, C.M. Fraser et al. (editors), published by Merck & Co., 7th Edition, 1991, ISBN 911910-55-7.

DISCLAIMER: Before administering any medications or treatments, please first check with your personal veterinarian for guidance. First-aid is meant to be given until you can get your dog to a veterinarian for proper medical treatment. Neither author nor publisher is liable for any damages due to the use or misuse of this information.

Dosages: 
Make sure you know what the correct dosage is for each of your dogs. Go over the contents of your first-aid kit with your vet, it can save you some anxious moments.

Note: 
You should always consult your own veterinarian about the correct dosage for your size and breed of dog before dispensing any of these medications. Never carry or use any medications where you are not familiar with the usage and the side effects. Be aware that not all dogs will react in the same manner to a medication. If you are carrying any prescription medications in your first-aid kit, never give these to someone else's dogs.

Paperwork: 
You don't want to have to carry a great deal of paperwork around with you, but it is always a good idea to have a photocopy of your dog's vaccination records and a copy of any rabies certificates. I keep these in a clearly marked envelope in the glove compartment of all my vehicles. Emergency contact information is in several places: in this envelope, taped to the inside of the first-aid kit, and on my refrigerator door at home where anyone who needs it can find it.

Emergency Contacts: 
My emergency contacts are also listed in these same three places. For the dogs, the contacts are the name and phone number of my veterinarian and a friend that can be contacted and relied upon to rescue my dogs if I am hurt or incapacitated in an accident. Remember, your dogs can end up with a complete stranger who will need this information or worse yet, in a shelter or a kennel if you are on the road and seriously injured. Make sure your friends/family knows what to do with your dogs in an emergency. Be sure to list emergency contacts for yourself as well and perhaps a copy of your health insurance card.

Also, don't forget when traveling with your dogs, be sure they can be easily identifiable to a stranger. A collar with tags giving their call name is the best way to handle this. On the reverse side of the tag, I have listed: "Reward: If found call collect, 999-555-9999." Be sure to include your area code in case a dog gets loose in another state. I also think having a tattoo put on, and a chip put in is a great idea. If your dog is "adopted" by another, they might not want to give it up. A tattoo or chip is the only true proof you have, that it is your dog.

Where to get supplies. 
Medco Medical 800-566-3326 
Moor Medical Corp. 800-234-1464 
Adventure Med Kits 800-324-3517


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## BirdJ (Aug 24, 2011)

Holly cow bisontraks!!!!! Looks like a medic going into battle!!! That is one heck of a list. Thanks for a great post! :thumb:


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## 94NDTA (May 28, 2005)

Yeah, I'm not packing all that. A lot of those I wouldn't consider essentials if one is out in the field.


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