# Gas check bullets



## Burly1 (Sep 20, 2003)

My bread and butter load for the .44 magnum uses a plain base 240 grain lead SWC. It is wonderfully accurate for about twenty rounds, but then the leading gets to the barrel and groups go to the wayside. Will gas checks help? Do I need a swaging press to install a gas check on a commercial bullet or can they simply be set in place? Any help would be appreciated. Burl


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## jimbob357 (Jan 2, 2006)

You can't just put a Gas check on a plain base bullet..
Only on a bullet that has the gas check groove on the bottom of the bullet.


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## jimbob357 (Jan 2, 2006)

Pictures are worth 2000 words..

Plain based bullet
http://www.midwayusa.com/mediasvr.dll/image?saleitemid=217188
Gas checked cast bullet without gas check..

http://www.midwayusa.com/mediasvr.dll/image?saleitemid=682875

dang, I had to edit from pic to a link..


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## bighands (Dec 12, 2005)

You can't put gas checks on them, But there are a few things you can try,

First, try to get the hardest bullets you can buy, ask around your area. Most of the commercial cast bullets are pretty soft.

Second, If you shoot jacketed bullets, make sure you clean out all the copper fouling before shooting cast bullets.

Third, The forcing cone is where most of the lead fouling happens, if yours is rough you might have a gunsmith smooth it up.

Good Luck


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## Burly1 (Sep 20, 2003)

I ordered some gas checked bullets and will see if the leading persists. The forcing cone on my .44 is smooth as glass, as is the rest of the barrel. I know that harder bullets will help, but I like the accuracy of the ones I shoot now. Hunting is not a problem, but cleaning out the lead during a range session is a pain. From what I have read, the gas checks may help somewhat. Thanks for the replies guys. Burl


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## gto (Aug 9, 2006)

I know that this is an older post, but I just wanted to add something here. Gas checked should definately help! However, harder bullets are not always better than softer ones when it comes to leading...especially in revolvers. Harder bullets, when shot at lesser powers spend more time in the transition between the chamber and the bore and will lead much more than softer bullets while making the transition. The way to determine this is by finding major leading in the chamber/breech/cylinder area. If it is there, you either need a softer bullet or more power. In .44mag your probably not getting much of a power issue unless you are pushing it from a .44mag casing at .44spl powers. If a harder bullet (not gas checked) works fine, than it is not a power issue, but if harder bullets don't seem to help or make the problem worse, try using a softer one. I prefer gas checked or a copper base bullet in these scenarios, but thats not always a choice. Hopefully this helps!

PS - Though mine is an autoloader, I shoot my glock 29 with wfngc rounds at 180gr/1400fps with no problem squeezing off 50 rds quickly with no seen fouling or loss in grouping. If ever there is, You just shoot a few jacket ones though as bighands suggested and your all ready to go. If you have too much buildup already and cant get the gun straight with regular cleaning, just plug the barrel and fill with mercury, it will get it spotless, just make sure not to get any mercury on you or you might not be around to enjoy your clean gun. Also, you can save the mercury and use it again and again. I used to shoot some soft and hard leads though the gun and I had the exact problem of using near .40s&w powers while using a hard bullet and 10mm case, but when I stepped up the pressure or used a softer bullet, the problem went away! My gun is no .44mag, but the princilple holds true, and is even more problematic given the gap found in revolvers!


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## gto (Aug 9, 2006)

PS - I have had many revolvers just no .44's yet, and have the same problems, I just used the glock being my most recent example.


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## clampdaddy (Aug 9, 2006)

Where can I get some mercury? I shoot 405gr. WLNGS's in my 45-110 
Sharpes and have found that the leading is all but impossible to remove. I do have some bore cleaner with a fine abrasive that would probably do the job but I just can't get myself to run anything rough through the bore of my rifle.

WHAT SAY THE BRETHEREN?!?!?!


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## Plainsman (Jul 30, 2003)

That lead can be gone in seconds with a Hoppe's lead remover, or Midways deleading wool. The Hoppe's kit uses an adjustable rubber swage covered with copper screen. The copper is to soft to damage the bore, but it sure pulls lead out when you pull the lead remover through the bore with a cleaning rod. 
With the deleading wool wrap some on a bore brush and work it back and fourth. A minute or two will take out all your lead.
I have used it in revolvers, model 1911, and my Browning 1885 falling block 45/70.


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## clampdaddy (Aug 9, 2006)

Many thanks Plainsman.


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