# Pointing dog staunching techniques needed



## tdsetter (Dec 30, 2007)

I've heard and read about various methods to staunch a pointing dog when he hits that initial body scent cone that's strong enough to stop him in his tracks.

Mine does that instinctively, and looks real classy, but sometimes then moves a little, seemingly to get a stronger noseful, or else the "prey drive" is taking over...... I've got to get him to not budge.

What methods do you advocate, so he doesn't creep to get a little closer... but rather stops dead and waits , even if we are a hundred yards apart? Once I harness this immense energy we can have some real fun!

1. I've heard putting him up on a barrel or platform and showing him the bird, then doing the same on the ground. (I've tried this, and after a bit he just barks at it :lol: ) 2. Using a launcher if he twitches or creeps on planted birds. 3. Ecollar on low stim around his belly or checkcord to restrain him if he moves.

In controlled yard training in a calm and submissive state, without the strong hunting drive going, he just sits when whoa is reinforced, therefore, it seems we've got to practice on this in local woods and fields with planted birds when he's in high energy hunting mode. Or if there is a way to teach this in yard training and have it transfer in real hunting scenario, I'm all ears!

I don't have a constant supply of training pigeons currently, or do I own a launcher, but I can and have gotten chukars and quail locally, have a little woods in the back of the house, plus training fields close by. 
I usually plant birds that I put in a small net bag in the leaves, so I can reuse them. That simulates "hunting in the grouse woods" well enough to get him running/hunting and stopping when he finds them. I just need help with the next step. 
Some will advocate "just take him hunting, and let the wild birds teach him", but it seems to me if I can get him trained on some basics a little better, our real hunts will be more fun, plus I'd rather know that in a psuedo hunting scenario we've got it correct, before we go do the real thing, where various other distractions and temptations come into play.
Thanks as always for your contributions.


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## mudhunter (Dec 10, 2007)

Not an expert on training, but have a yellow lab pointer. Obviously he is a very Intelligent dog. When he was a puppy, he also wanted to sit, but I picked him up, and made him hold. He learned real fast that I didn't want him to sit. He will hold on anything we play with. His fav is the duck. Even had the wing on a pole. Again, I am no expert. But Buddy will hold a point on a quail or pheasent to the point of breaking his back to point at it. A couple weeks ago, had approx 20 quail inside his curve while pointing another quail around a little cedar tree. Too bad I had not camera with me. It was so awesome, forgot to get ready for the flush when we got there. 
I just refused to let him set when he was young. Sometimes, it seemed like he thought I was try;ing to make him set. Just picked him up, lifted his tail, hold command. Not an expert, but still have an awesome friend to hunt with. Dave


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## Bobm (Aug 26, 2003)

birds in a bag that can't flush will lead to creeping and crowding, once one of my dogs is showing good pointing instincts no more planted birds. I would recommend you quit that immediately.

Dont overtrain your dog and dont be in a hurry is my advice, the wild bird advice is the best you have recieved only experience will teach the dog.


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## Britman (Dec 18, 2002)

what kind of dog, how old and has it been hunted?


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