# Deadly Decoys - how to improve spread?



## BlackWolf (Mar 27, 2011)

I'm new to these forums and to goose hunting. I'd like to do better this year than last so I thought I'd ask for the input of some folks that know more than I do. I've just bought 3 dozen deadly decoys to build my spread around. I currently own some big flock silos and some homemade silos from a different company but I don't know how well those will do with the deadlies.

How would you improve on this spread of 3 dozen deadlies?

Add more deadlies?
Start to slowly add full bodies (which brand would you reccomend if so)?
Add silos?
3 dozen deadlies is enough, leave it alone Blackwolf?
something not mentioned here?

I'm open to any input that you can provide. Thanks in advance!


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## Kelly Hannan (Jan 9, 2007)

Add shells or full body.

Higdon makes a good shell. Get a mixed box so you will have different head positions. Also you will want some sleepers for cold weather.

Bigfoot is one of the top full body decoys. I personally like the Higdon full body because they are just a little smaller, and cheaper. Without going to extremes on price those are my opinions. If money is not an issue Dakota Decoys. Your 3 doz of the Deadly will be lots of motion, so now add non motion and sleepers.


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## BlackWolf (Mar 27, 2011)

Thank you for your input Kelly!


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## Kelly Hannan (Jan 9, 2007)

hope it helps. might need to push those Deadly's down a little on real windy days, don't let them dance to much


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## BlackWolf (Mar 27, 2011)

I'm definately going to look at the "budget" end of the reccomendations. The big foots and the shells are significantly more per decoy than the deadlies. I'm thinking a half dozen sleepers, half dozen other shells, and then slowly adding full bodies as funds allow. It will likely take a couple of years to get a few dozen of the big foots.

Most of the places that I hunt (I should say all, I don't have drive in permission anywhere yet) are walk in access only - how easy are the full bodies to transport in/are there easy ways to do it?


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## Kelly Hannan (Jan 9, 2007)

bigfoots are huge and hard to carry, that's where the shells will help. a doz. stackable shells don't take much room. I also pack into a couple spots, and I just bought 2 doz used shells and some windsocks to use. I still have some Higdon Full Body which are smaller and easier to carry.


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## blhunter3 (May 5, 2007)

Realgeese Pro-Series 1.


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## BlackWolf (Mar 27, 2011)

I started looking into full body decoys this morning and I found some pretty good prices on full bodies made by a company called Goosebuster decoys. I emailed the owner and it seems like a small operation but the decoys are fully flocked and they look really nice in the pictures he sent me. Has anyone tried these/any thoughts on their capatibility with my deadly decoys?


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## Bruce (Dec 12, 2003)

I use the deadly's as my prime decoy. They move great. In the wind I angle them a bit so they don't move to much. I love them!


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## cut'em (Oct 23, 2004)

I suggest you add some shells as well. Beings as your starting to build your spread don't jump on the sleepers just yet. Like mentioned they're used mostly during late season, so get what you need for most of your hunts. Remember the shells can be used with stakes as actives or ditch the stakes and they become resters (the next closest thing to a sleeper) Also as you say your new to goose hunting don't go crazy on a call, buy an inexpensive one now and practice a lot during the off season and blow a little during the season with it. Too much calling or bad notes will flare geese every time. Get yourself a flag and use that till you feel comfortable with a call. I put my flag on an 8' pole I then call a little to get them looking my way then shut up and flag them in. Maybe an occasional cluck here and there. All these pros on the video tapes are sponsored by the call manufacturers and therefore are obligated to hammer away on them. Leading you to believe it's something you must have. I've killed hundreds of geese my first years and never even blew a call. Being on the X, good blind concealment and Proper decoy placement, are the three most important factors in goose hunting in that order. Work on building that foundation and add more as you develop. Welcome to Nodak and the sport of goose hunting.


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## BlackWolf (Mar 27, 2011)

Thank you for the welcome 

I have actually invested more in calls than in decoys so far (I know, I probably went about it backwards). Last year I started with a few cheap ones and upgraded to a call by Ann River calls and then 3 (one of each type made) by Gander Valley Calls. I'd say I'm not very good yet but all winter and even still today I take 1 or 2 with me to practice on my drive into work. I live in Western Pennsylvania and I don't really know where any "X's" are yet. I live along the river so I figure I'll try out some of the corn fields nearby and continue to hunt close to a couple of the swamps nearby.

I appreciate your input as I'm completely learning the sport from scratch. My dad was pretty much able to teach me how to master every other type of hunting in this area but geese and ducks are something that he never hunted for. So this year I'm hoping to switch it up some and show him something new as neither of us are getting any younger.....

Any more advice to get started will certainly be appreciated. Have a great evening and thanks again!

Bruce - I'm glad to talk to someone else that uses deadly decoys! I thought these looked like a great way to start my spread (relatively inexpensive and looked good imo). I also got one of the deadly fliers and put it on a 6 foot pole. I'm not 100% sure how I'm going to transport that thing yet but it sure looks convincing


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## BlackWolf (Mar 27, 2011)

This might not fit in this thread, but does anyone have any opinions on ground blinds for a starting out goose hunter? I'm hesitent to drop 150 into a layout blind when I'm not sure how successful we will be or how much use it will see. Thoughts?


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## blhunter3 (May 5, 2007)

Here is my opinion on ground blinds.

Get a field khaki blind, since you will mud it and stubble it anyways so the camo pattern won't show anyways. So you can save yourself some money there.

I personally like the GHG Ground Force. Its low profile, folds nice, and is comfortable. I also have GHG Finishers that I hardly use.
To me a ground blind is a worth while investment, since you will be laying in it when your hunting and if you take care of it, it should last a long time. If you don't want to buy a new one look into buying a used one.


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## BlackWolf (Mar 27, 2011)

Thank you for your input I will check out those blinds


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## blhunter3 (May 5, 2007)

I have a finisher for sale.


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## gamberc (Mar 10, 2008)

Remeber this is just my opinion take it for whatever its worth. I agree layout blinds are worth the investment and you'll be comfortable hunting. we hunted over 24-36 fullbodies for something like 2 or 3 years granted we learned alot but we still were able to kill birds. Honker hunting isnt like snow goose hunting (where snow goose hunting is a big numbers game) honker hunting isnt so much, yes more decoys can help too but not such big factor compared to snow goose hunting. I personally think your 3 dozen deadlies is a good start. If I were you i would slowley add fullbodies, i perfer Dakota Decoys but every hunter is different. Keep you deadlies... geese like seeing differnt stuff, how many people run an entire set of fullbodies set up the same way, ALOT. So being different isnt always a bad thing. I have a friend that runs all deadiles for honker hunting about 10 dozen and crushes them. Now for what you were saying about driving permission and what not i dont know bout your area but my area 90 perecent of the time were able to drive in. Just get in some windshield time, find a feed, get permission and next morning set your spread in the same spot as they were (look for goose poop) your going to want the wind at your backs because birds are like airplanes they like landing into the wind. I hope this helps just get out there try to kill some birds if something doest work right change it up. Getting your butt kicked by birds isnt a bad thing i call it learning lol. Cut em this fall


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## BlackWolf (Mar 27, 2011)

Thanks gamberc! Do you have any opinions on blinds? I'm torn between something like a camo mat to lay on/or one of those cheap primos/hardcore blinds on ebay since it will be our first year really hunting geese (or even something like the 2 man ameristep hayhouse) or if I should invest in a decent layout blind. I appreciate the feedback on decoys too - I hadn't checked out the dakotas yet but they look very realistic!


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## cut'em (Oct 23, 2004)

Buy a lay-out blind! You sound like your hooked enough now to call it serious. A good layout will be your only protection from the cold wind and rain and will make those miserable conditions a little more bearable. Like blhunter said, go for the khaki your mudding it anyway. I mentioned earlier Being on the X, good blind concealment and Proper decoy placement as the three most important links to success, don't forget to mud it and stubble it with whatever surrounding your hunting in. You want that thing to disappear. Also if when your out there the birds are just not committing to your spread, get out, close the blind doors and look at what they're seeing most often it's some shortfall in the camo-ing process on someones blind. This is how important of a detail blind concealment is, that's why it's number 2 on my list and if for some reason I'm not hunting the X look where blind concealment just moved to!


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## cut'em (Oct 23, 2004)

Forgot to mention I run finisher blinds. They all have they're pros and cons and I haven't used any others to compare to but I can say my finishers hold up to a lot of usage. They're a little wobbly when set up which seams weird but doesn't effect much, carrying them out of a field when wet is a ***** because who ever designed the shoulder strap placed it in a spot where the blind wont carry level, the velcro strap gets week after awhile and the plastic buckle loop the strap goes through couldn't be any smaller. Why not a bigger plastic loop? Crazy thing is every season I buy a new one and although I've listed the bad points all in all it's a good product and it wont be long and my new one for the upcoming season will be here.


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## BlackWolf (Mar 27, 2011)

Have any of you tried the ameristep hayhouse blind? I came across this the other day and thought of it for hunting with my dad (and with my daughters in a few years). I think it looks less natural than a couple of layout blinds would but I also don't think that I can convince my dad to drop 150 on a blind right now.

Experiences/opinions?

I hope that each of you that have replied to this post know how much I value that you took the time to give me advice. Please feel free to provide anything else that you can think for a new hunter!


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## Buck25 (Mar 27, 2008)

BlackWolf said:


> Have any of you tried the ameristep hayhouse blind? I came across this the other day and thought of it for hunting with my dad (and with my daughters in a few years). I think it looks less natural than a couple of layout blinds would but I also don't think that I can convince my dad to drop 150 on a blind right now.
> 
> Experiences/opinions?
> 
> I hope that each of you that have replied to this post know how much I value that you took the time to give me advice. Please feel free to provide anything else that you can think for a new hunter!


i would rather hunt without a blind then without that blind 99% of the time. Look to buy used stuff.


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## blhunter3 (May 5, 2007)

Never have seen birds use a field with bales in it. Just do it right the first time and buy a good used blind on Nodak.


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## BlackWolf (Mar 27, 2011)

I'm looking at the Real Geese decoys heavily now that one poster mentioned above. They seem to have a great look (I'd like ty try my hand at applying flocking to even make it better) and they are made in the USA. Does anyone know a good place to buy these?

Are there any opinions out there on if the Pro series are worth paying the extra (I can buy 3 dozen of the normal ones or 2 dozen of the pro series for around the same price)?


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## blhunter3 (May 5, 2007)

I wouldn't worry about flocking them. I my opinion flocking anything is over rated. None of my Bigfoots are flocked and neither are my Realgeese and I still kill geese with them. If you do go the Realgeese route, get either the Realgeese Pro Series 1 oe Pro Series 2, no questions asked. They are worth paying the extra money. I run 4 dozen Pro Series 1, and love them. They work for killing birds, and work great for hiding blinds. The biggest thing about using Realgeese compared to other decoys is that you have to spread them out more. I go anywhere from 6 to 9 steps apart. PM me if you have any questions.

Order you Realgeese online woudl be your best bet.


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## the professor (Oct 13, 2006)

best price on new pro series 2's I've found so far...

http://www.ohiowaterfowler.com/RealGeese.html


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