# Comment On Chain Length



## LarryP82052 (Nov 11, 2006)

Now its not my intention to confuse or bewilder anyone here on this subject as it is something I have literallydone for years and the below comments work ONLY because I made my liviing in the 70's & 80's using these methods on chain length.I have trapped 44 years and I ave been using this methods for a lot of those year.

My COMMENT~Its impertative to use good solid traps in very good condition to use longer chain,the reason for long chain(as much as 34 inches) is simply to wear the animal out quicker because he has a lot more weight to lug around,understand and appreciate one thing here tho~~~>that first lunge he makes SETS the trap jaws into the foot where it grabs him,so doing this set your trap pans up to where they will hold his full weight so he gets a SOLID hold and catch across the pad and paw.Now 80 percent of the time if you approach the animal before hesee's yo,YOU will find he is laying in the trap ASLEEP.

On fox and **** yes you need short chain,I understand very well on that,On coyote when they tear up that larger circle its visiable for a long distance and a VISUAL for other coyotes.

You would think my foot damage from using this would be very extreme,BUT remember that coyote is toating around the EXTRA weight of he chain ,plus the trap,REST assured it wears him out quicker and the foot damage is virtually none,LONG AS YOU SET PAN for the pad type catch.It does give him freedom to move more,but the ONLY time he CROSSES that 360 degree circle is on your approach or the first time he gets caught and hits the end of the chain.

I use 3 swivels on a 34 inch coyote chain with a Earth anchor stake.Now I am not reccommending to go out and set your entire limne up like this,just try it once gettin that pan adjusted with a full notch trigger and let the rap catch him accross the pad and paw and fellows you will like that and it works.SHORT chain on coyote traps make the coyote constantly fight trap hard because he is pinned down and o freedom to move,THINK ABOUT THAT!!


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

I definately agree with you in wanting to start with a good solid trap. Coyote (if you are consistantly catching them) are extremely hard on your equipment. I run mostly Bridgers.

On the other hand however, I'd never run a chain as long as you do, but that's just my preference. A longer chain allows for more inertia from a lunging coyote, if you're running strictly coyote traps (generally meaning say a #3) might be one thing, but I run a fair amount of #2's, and some #1.75's because of fox, and run all modified traps.

That, coupled with the fact of a perfect pad catch doesn't happen every time, and a toe-pinched coyote would be more easily held where he couldn't build-up a full head of steam.

I believe I've mentioned in some other posts, I also like using JC Conners Shock Springs. They are a great way of minimizing the shock once the coyote meets the end of the chain.

Please don't misunderstand my post, as it's just my preference & opinion, and neither of us are "right or wrong"....we can get to the same destination by traveling many different roads......and that is nailin' them coyote :beer:

Smitty


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## Mongojoe (Nov 2, 2006)

Hummmmm..... interesting.........


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## LarryP82052 (Nov 11, 2006)

Hey Smitty,yea got to be careful on toes catches on ong chain for ure.I tr and get my pan tension to where it runs roughly 6-7 pounds as coyotes weighing 28<-->30lbs would be close divided by four feet so te toes catchesare not but once in a while.yea enjoy reading your post and glad yo responded.Will post some reat coyote,**** and Fox secents that I have that are great producers to,best of luck friend,Larry


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## M*F (Nov 3, 2006)

6-7 pounds of tension. They definetly need a full commitment then. No skunks or grinners either. or fox.... Very interesting.


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## KYUSS (Aug 27, 2005)

1.65 Bridger with #2 springs, base plate swiveling, shock spring, lamination, three swivels, and ten inches of machine chain. Trap is cross staked. I like the short chain cause the Yote isnt out there race tracking around for ole Johnny to see. This coyote was also toe caught.


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

Yep, there was one word M*F mentioned that caught my attention.....FOX. I run a light enough pan tension to take them as well......which of course leaves me open to '**** & grinners.

Larry, just out of curosity, is the 28-30 pound you mentioned "average" on your 'yotes down there? I'd say that hits pretty close to them here.

KYUSS- Nice pic & catch! Offset or regular jaw trap (in pic)? Any reason you prefer #2 springs over 4-coiling?

Here's one of some I recently modified:










Mongo- Lean back from the screen & put your spoon away :wink:  lol, no....I think we all know chain-length is simply a matter of preference....trap brand, wood vs. wire stretchers, Duke traps ( uke: )......lol....I've seen more than 1 grown man come unglued because his point-of-view wasn't agreed with.

LMAO....fortunately, I haven't seen any of them trappers on this site :wink:

I'm a firm beliver in that works for me may not work for the next guy, and vice-versa, but I also keep an open-mind & don't consider my pea-brain has reached full-capacity yet  .

Smitty


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## LarryP82052 (Nov 11, 2006)

Smitty,yea most of these coyotes go 28<-->30 pounds,have caught a few that went 40,but yea when they commit that weight they are real good pad catches.

I weighed my chain once and it was like an extra 2 pounds of chain and with that trap weight and chain to,they are plum wore out,lol,lol,love thisforum,,great place,Larry


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## KYUSS (Aug 27, 2005)

smitty223 said:


> KYUSS- Nice pic & catch! Offset or regular jaw trap (in pic)? Any reason you prefer #2 springs over 4-coiling?Smitty


Hey thanks. All my 1.65's are regular jaws and that is why I dont 4-coil those. All of my #2's & #3's are offset and those are fourcoiled. I 4-coil those more for cutting through semi frozen dirt than I do for holding power.

All of my 1.5's and 1.65's have #2 springs installed. Those traps are my Fox and **** traps and will hold yotes in good fashion.

This **** was caught with a 1.65 on the front foot and held him good. He was a huge ****.


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## wyogoose (Feb 11, 2006)

I trap every day almost year round and I firmly believe in long stakes and londer chains. I run a 28" stake when possible and a 34" chain with three swivels and a baseplate. I once watched a coyote fight a trap of mine (before the long chains) with a 18" chain. The coyote got to jumping straight up above the stake and pulled it easily. Luckily, the trap got caught up in the rocks and I was able to shoot him with my rifle. Long chains are a must.


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

Yep Larry.....this is a pretty nice forum. I'm not much of a hunter...lol, so I've never really been outside of the trapping forum.

KYUSS- That's one whopper of a ****! Did you by chance weigh him? You seen the new #1.5 Bridgers yet? Factory PIT pans on 'em, currently $68 dz.

wyogoose-I don't use rebar, but if I did I'd double-stake them (running short chains). There are times I'll add a second cablestake to my splitring. lol, and will respectfully disagree with your "long chains are a must" statement :wink: "Must" is a pretty strong word, like "never" & "always".

Here's a portion of last seasons 'yotes, and not one was taken in a trap with a chain-length of more than 16"....









Smitty


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## KYUSS (Aug 27, 2005)

smitty223 said:


> KYUSS- That's one whopper of a ****! Did you by chance weigh him? You seen the new #1.5 Bridgers yet? Factory PIT pans on 'em, currently $68 dz.Smitty


I dont have a scale but I would liked to have known. I have not seen those new Bridgers 1.5's yet. $68 a doz. huh? Cant go wrong there. By the way, nice looking yotes you got there.


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

Check-out Montgomeryfur.com for pics (and thanks!)

Smitty


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