# Arrow FLight



## tilliejack

Hey guys I have some problems with my arrow flight. When I shoot a couple of arrows, they hit the target. But the arrows are tilted dif. ways on the target. The ends of the arrow may be pointing down it may be pointing up, it may be pointing left or right. Is this the cause of my inaccuracy? How can I fix this?


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## Remington 7400

Sounds like you bow is not properly tuned, either paper tune it and make corrections or take it to a pro shop.


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## tilliejack

Around how much would it costs for them to fix it up at a pro shop?


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## Goldy's Pal

Call the shop and ask. Explain what is happening to them. Can you watch the arrow in flight and see it whip? It definately needs to be looked at by someone who can set you up better than you are now.


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## tilliejack

Thanks for the help man. I can see it whip in the air I am a novice bow hunter, and don't think I would be able to do the paper test by myself.


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## Plainsman

Tilliejack

If you decide to try tuning this is how I do it.

Set up a target good enough to stop your arrow. I then tape a yard stick to the back of a chair so at least half of it hangs out to one side. Use newspaper, or butcher paper, anything about 18 inches wide and 24 inches long. Tape an end to the yard stick, and hang a weight on the other end. I use the weights that ice fishermen use to set their depth. 
Next remove the feathers from one of your arrows. Set the newspaper three feet in front of your target. Now get back so your extended bow arm is six feet from the paper. Shoot an arrow through the paper and inspect the hole it makes. If you can see that the hole is torn upwards move your nock point down, or if you have a tunable arrow rest move the front of your arrow up. If the hole is torn left, move your arrow rest towards the riser. If it is torn right move your arrow rest away from the riser (For right hand bow).
Once everything is set correctly you should get a perfect bullet hole through the paper with no tearing. If this can not be accomplished then the tiller of the bow is off.


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## Remington 7400

I never could have exeplained paper tuning so easily!
:beer:


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## tilliejack

Hey thanks for the advice it seems worth trying it. Either I can pay 35 $ and my local bow hunting pro shop can fix it. Or I can try what your talking about and lose 2$ for the refleteaching of the arrow. I will try it out and see how it works. :beer:


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## tilliejack

I tried it, it seemed to not work. What else could need adjusting to make it more accurate?


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## Plainsman

Do you get a bullet hole, or were you unable to do that?


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## tilliejack

I tried over and over shooting at that piece of paper trying to get a bullet hole. It would always penetrate the paper and leave a trail going upwards. I tried adjusting the arrow rest as far as I could upward till it could move no longer. The trail was still upward. Then I moved the knock down and I moved it down father and father at a time till I would get close to having no upward trail, then I moved it down a little further and the upward trail got worst. Very fustrating, but the one thing I was worried about is that the cause of this if so. Was that my arrow length was incorrect. I had adjusted my draw length that day longer, so that arrows were too short. The arrow it self without including the field tip was just past my arrow rest. I do not know if this could of been the cause or not. I don't know to much about tuning bows, but please give my as many tips as you can. I am 16, and I am trying to get into hunting whitetail with a compound. I can't seem to do it my bow is off even when I shoot at the exact same place everytime, the arrow seems to go off. I have a kisser button and peep sight. The arrow it seems will never go where I shoot. This is very fustrating, I have told my self that I was just going to quit, but I try to stay in it. With my budget I cannot afford to take it to the pro-shop. Please help me, I am on the verge of stopping shooting bows forever.


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## tilliejack

keep I am I tried this with a flected arrow and couldnt even get a hole with that it was always a 1'' to 3'' tear, tearing upward.


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## Plainsman

Don't give up. I know it can get frustrating at times, but there is always a reason for the problem. Do you have a compound with wheels, or cams? If wheels they both should turn over in sink with one another. A a little tougher to describe. 
First of all set your bow poundage as high as it will go, then back off the top and bottom limb equally to the poundage you want. Hold your bow at arms length and draw it. Do you feel a rocking sensation in the riser?

After you have done this try the paper test again. If as you say you had nearly no trail that may be as good as you can get tuned. There may be other problems like arrow spine.

What size arrows do you have, what length, and what is your bow set on for weight? What is the drop off (holding weight) on your bow?


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## tilliejack

I have a Browning Rage 10'' adjustable draw length bow. The draw weight is adjustable from 45 to 55 pounds. I told the guy at my pro shop I wanted it 50 pounds, so I am guessing he has got everything right dealing with draw weight. Also about 7 months ago, I saved up most of my money and told the people there I wanted it tuned up and serviced. I am guessing they set the cams and everything right, the only thing that has been changed, is the arrow rest, it has only been changed vertically not horizontally (and I know the guy set my arrow rest right), the draw length by 2'', and the knock, everything else I havent touched and nothing else have been moved. I do not feel I rocking sensating it is solid. I my bow weight is 50 pounds. Yes the arrows I bought I think were made to fit my bow and cut to the right length for my bow, btu that was when I didn't change the draw length. Someone told me if your draw length changes everything changes and you need new arrows and everything. I don't know what you mean as in size of arrows, but my arrow length is 27'' and my bow weight is 50 pounds. My drop-off is 65% actaul let off so whatever that is. I have another post under topic "Adjusting Draw Length." This tells you a lot of information and has some other questions I have asked.


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## tilliejack

I arrow trail the closest I could get with a fletched arrow was about 1''.


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## tilliejack

I got another question does a level on your sight help a lot, because I have a regular 3 pin sight with no level or light or anything.


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## Plainsman

only if you have a bad habit of canting your bow.

I had an adjustable draw length bow for my boys when they were young. If I remember right every time I added an inch draw length it added five pounds to the bow draw weight. This could have taken you beyond the correct spind for that weight.

Are your arrows aluminum or carbon. What does it say on the side?


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## tilliejack

Aluminium, Easton XX75 GameGetter, 27 inches. Did you look at my other topic?


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## tilliejack

Look at my other Topic tell me what you think about that if you know anything about it. None of my friends shoots bow's so I have no one to look to except nodak outdoors and the helpful people on them


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## tilliejack

I am also looking for something that would improve my balance, vibration, noise, and accuracy of my bow. Have you got any suggestions as far as dampensers limb savers, or stabilzier. Have you got a specific item?


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## Plainsman

Yes I read them. Cya Coyote is correct I think changing your draw changed many things.

If you have Easton XX75 they should have a number on the side. In the past I shot 2213. This means 22/64 of an inch in diameter and 13 thousandths of an inch thick. Diameter and wall thickness control the spine of your arrow. 
If your bow is 50 lb and drops of to 65 percent it drops to about 33lb. 50 plus 33 equals 83 divided by 2 equals about 42. This is the old way of determining arrow spine and your would use an arrow spined for 42 lbs. At a 27 inch draw you should be shooting a 1916 and at most a 2016. You could get by with even lighter.
It has been my experience that many shops handle arrow far to stiff of spine.


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## Remington 7400

> It has been my experience that many shops handle arrow far to stiff of spine.


You can say that again, my local bow shop reccomends 2117s for anythng 50 pounds and less and 2219s for everything else. They are knowlegable people when it come to tuning a bow, but thay don't know the first thing about arrow selection!

:eyeroll:


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## tilliejack

I am also looking for something that would improve my balance, vibration, noise, and accuracy of my bow. Have you got any suggestions as far as dampensers limb savers, or stabilzier. Have you got a specific item? Please respond, jsut from your personal experience's I need something under 30 bucks


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## tilliejack

I looked at my arrow and it said it was a 2117, remember my let off is 65 %, my weight is 50, and my draw length is


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## tilliejack

Guys that same night I was trying to tell Plainsman my draw length. when I pulled my bo back to see waht letter it was on to see my draw length. SNAP my strings flew all off the cams and everywhere. I broke my thumb in the cam. This is officialy my worst day ever. I dont know what to do. I have to restart over, I took both the limbs off my bow and the string is still intact. Where to go from here guys, what do I do? I don't know what caused this accident, but know I just want to know what to do next and what steps I need to take to get it back shooting again.

PLEASE HELP!!


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## Goldy's Pal

Goldy's Pal said:


> Call the shop and ask. Explain what is happening to them. It definately needs to be looked at by someone who can set you up better than you are now.


 :-?


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## tilliejack

So there is no way I could just put back the strings on and go from there?


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## Plainsman

Goldy's Pal is right, at this point you need to see a shop. 2117 at 27 inches could be shot in a 75 lb bow. I think you are way way overspined for one thing. 
If your string came off you need someone who is familiar with the cable arrangement and can put it back together correct. I don't think it can be done by anyone on an internet thread.


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## Goldy's Pal

At some point, and I think tilliejack you are officially there, you need to step back and look at some safety issues. You need the proper equiptment to restring a bow SAFELY and even if I could walk you through this on here (which I can't) I wouldn't. I don't mean to sound like a prick but if $35.00 is too much to get rid of this severe headache you have here, I donno. This is a spendy sport if you let it be, but I think in this case you may just wanna consider dropping down a few bucks for this situation. Maybe you can work something out with the guy at the shop, a payment plan or work it off somehow? Talk it out.


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## tilliejack

I would easily put down 35 $ to get this out of the way, he said it would be 30 to align the arrow rest, but I havent asked him how much to put my strings back on. Also is there anything else I would need to tell him to do as far as tuning??


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## NDTracer

I didn't see this before now but I have a couple ideas that haven't been touched on.

First yes you need to take the bow in to get set back up. If you had it drawn when the strings came off it may have damaged the limbs or bent the axles of the cams ect.

Now as to the initial problem. I thought I had the answer but the string coming off throws me off. My thoughts were that you are getting fletching contact. What I mean by this is your vane (doesn't happen with feathers as bad) is hitting something when it goes by the rest. The quick check for this is to get some spray foot powder or lipsitck and put it on the arrow and the rest area. Then shoot an arrow. Then you can look at the arrow and rest area and see if there is powder missing. If it is then you can adjust the location of the vanes (twist the nock) to eliminate this. It sounds to me like your cock vane is hitting on the bottom of the rest and causing it to bounce up. This can happen with a prong style rest but doesn't with a whisker bisket or drop away (if setup correctly).

Also where are you located? Reason I ask is there is likely a club around the area and there would be guys there willing to help out. I know it can be intimidating being new going to one as "everyone is better and will laugh at me". I had that attitude and it cost me years of trial and error figuring out simple things. I had a similar case as you I shot fingers off a flipper rest and the shop gave me vanes so my arrows fish tailed the whole way to the target.


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## dogdigger

tille where are you from? if your from grand forks or around here drop me an im and i will get you fixed up. as for tuning go to the easton web page for a the tuning guide. http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads.asp click tuning guide and save it . it will tell you all u need to know about paper tuning and setting up a bow. if you do have any more questions post up.

mark


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## Goldy's Pal

It's probably different everywhere, but when I shot indoor league the shop upstairs from the range would set you up no charge. It was sweet, and if dogdigger has that option it's tough to go wrong. If a shop charged me for every little tweek and fine tune job on different parts of my bow I would have been broke a long time ago. I just made all of my purchases through him and that was sort of the unwritten policy there. Upgrades along the way soon pass as you get the bow the way you want it, but like I said to have a guy want to fix you up so you can work through some of the problems together is definately the way to go. You will learn a lot in the process.
:beer:


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## tilliejack

Thanks for the help, and my pro shop charges me for every tiny little thing, and they charge me way to much for it. They charged me 3 dollars to put on a kisser button. Dogdigger I live in North Carolina, Goldsboro. Where do u live I would greatly appreciate it for someone to fix up my bow. If I were to take it to my pro-shop I would probably get charged over 100 dollars. This is a very fustrating thing, when you have problems with your bow to begin with then your strings fall off and split a deep gash in your finger. I looked at the tuning guide haven't read all of it yet, confusing for me being an inexperiened bow tuner. But yeah if any of you guys know anyone that can hook me up so I can try to shoot a whitetail this coming up season that would be great. I would pay you if you would like also.

Thanks for helping guys.


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## tilliejack

This is a bad situation for me if you live in Grand forks, North Dakota.... very very fustrating, I know of no one that knows anything about bow tuning for anything of bows for that matter. I don't feel like suckering into my pro shop again they rip you off and have bad service, I would have to wait till next christmas to get money to fix it again this is terrible.


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## huntin1

tilliejack,

Go to the site below, register and then post your problem there, asking if there is anyone in your area that would consider helping you.

http://www.archerytalk.com/index_new.php

huntin1


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## tilliejack

alright man I post a topic and see if anyone will help thanks.


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## huntin1

It's a long shot, but they are a pretty good bunch over there for the most part. Hopefully one of them lives near you and can get you set up.

huntin1


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## tilliejack

i went to eders.com and it said I need to get my parents to sign this thing giving permission. I am 16 I can handle it, but I guess i will jsut try achery talk


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## dogdigger

archery talk is a very good site. yeah i live in grand forks, if you lived here i would teach you how to tune it. use that stuff on the easton site. they have a shaft selector and the tuning guide.

mark


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## tilliejack

But I need a bowpress to.


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## Goldy's Pal

Where did you get this bow from? Can that source help? Is there a shooting range you can go to? Some guys there might have a press in their basement or something, but even if they wouldn't might point you in a better direction than the shop you currently are dealing with. Archery people are usually quite helpful that way.


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## tilliejack

I bought my bow online, my achery range is in my back yard it is farily nice, and I don't know anyone who deals with shooting bows.


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## panman

Tilliejack,find yourself another proshop.That one is ripping you off.
Put the name of the shop on here,most of the guys on here will boycott them,i know i would.Use the internet to find anouther one.Failing that find out where a shooting or sportsman club is in your area.If you find one ask around the guys out there.Most archers will be more than happy to help you out,all you have to do is ask.You have all summer to get it fixed.When you find someone to help you out ,PAY ATTENTION!! and learn.thats the best way i know of to take care of your bow.Good luck
pan.


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