# Fixing crack in stock?



## Dick Monson (Aug 12, 2002)

Last night I disassembled my M1 carbine for cleaning and while turning the stock over, I saw a crack from the corner of the magazine well forward about 3". Plainly visible. When I reassembled the rifle the crack was not visible. ??? Humm. But I can feel it with my fingernail. Any good fix recommendations?


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## Plainsman (Jul 30, 2003)

If the crack is visible in the magazine well I would buy a small cheap syringe, drill a small hole in the crack (out of sight in the magazine well) put some mixed epoxy into the syringe and force it throughout the crack that way. Clamp the stock or wrap with surgical tubing or inner tube rubber strips. Wipe of excess epoxy with a WD40 damp cloth.


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## Dick Monson (Aug 12, 2002)

I could try that. It's not like this a collector piece. The wood is thin on a carbine in that area so the crack does go all the way through. It opens when the barrel-reciever group is removed and closes when reassembled so inserting the glue shouldn't be tough. Thanks for the reply.


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## People (Jan 17, 2005)

I read in the past the gov would drill a small hole and hammer a brass pin from side to side or top to bottom. I know now the glues are much better than before.

You will have to let us know how it goes.

It is believed dinosaurs are extinct due to a giant meteor. That's true if you want to call Chuck Norris a giant meteor.


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## Dick Monson (Aug 12, 2002)

When I started the repair there was more damage on the interior than I thought. A M1 carbine cycles from a gas piston that hits the anvil of the operating rod to cycle the bolt. The whole receiver assembly just lays in the stock, latched into the recoil plate at the rear and clamped down with a band on the fore end of the stock. Apparently the former owner was shooting without having the recoil plate tightened enough. So when fired the operating rod would tap the wood of the stock with every shot, causing several splits inside.

I tried the epoxy in the syringe but it was going to be too thick so I used Super Glue instead. I clamped the fore end and spread the crack a bit with a spring lock pliers to get the glue down. When it dried I drilled six small holes for dowels, glued the dowel and inserted them, and snapped them off flush. Then I used the Dermel to sand them flush and then took off a bit more so the anvil could not hit the wood again.

This is kind of a poor pic of the dowels before sanding.









I think it turned out solid and the former crack is not visable on the exterior. Thanks for the tips.


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