# Field Hunting Mallards???



## diver_sniper (Sep 6, 2004)

last year was my first year hunting in nodak, lets say i was impressed to say the very least. i live in west central MN, duck hunting is done 90% on water here. I talked to a guy i camped next to and he said he did extremly well out in the fields, but he had the equipment to do so. so my question is will it work for me to shoot mallards in the field over 30 goose shells and how ever many mallard water decoys. my funds are very limited so 30 or 40 enticer dekes are out of the question. i dont really like robo ducks so i figure each man on the field has a flag and we should be ready to go. so thats what we got, water mallards and pintails, 30 goose shells and a few flags. will this get the job done or should i just stay in the puddles and save myself the frustration?


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## Bob Kellam (Apr 8, 2004)

My experience has taught me that simple setups work for field hunting ducks. IMHO, you do not need a 150 decoy spread. I usually put out a dozen ducks and a half dozen canadas and some northewind snows, this also gives me the ability to move quickly if i want to. It has worked for me if i don't scare them away with my calling.  :eyeroll:

Have a good one!


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## deacon (Sep 12, 2003)

30 should be fine, we have used less at times and done well, most important is location, location, location. If you are in the right location 6 would be enough!! Flagging is a great attractor especially when there is some wind.


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## BJH (Apr 9, 2004)

I have been Hunting ND for quite a few years. But it took a couple of years to convince my buddies how good Field Hunting can be. Even last year when it was so hot the first week of Non-Resident Hunting,we were coming back with limits, while others were wondering where the Ducks went to. The Ducks didn't need to feed & all were locals, but they came in to look, and thats all you need!!! I started the first time out by my self with 2 dozen Mallard/Pintail floaters & 2 Dozen Canada Outlaws. Now we use several dozen G&H Mallards(Best,Light&Stackable),Goose shells, & Layout Blinds. It's alot easier,more comfortable, and best of all, nothing but, Mallard, Pintails, & Geese.


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## jbaincfl (Feb 5, 2003)

My dad and I use 20 bigfoots, 20 duck decoys (water decs), 2 Finisher Blinds, 2 robo ducks, and scouting. If the Mallards and pintails are feding in the field you will have no problem getting a limit with 30 shells if you do your scouting.

Like BHJ said, mallards, pintails, and geese :beer:


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## Sprig (Sep 10, 2003)

Good field hunting is all about putting miles on scouting. Scout in the afternoon and setup in the morning. If you find out where they want to be you'll get your birds. We use about 4 doz. mallard and a doz. geese maybe more if weather limits visibility. And 2 motion decoys 1 motorized and one wind generated. You can save money by buying wind generating motion decoys. A calm day in ND still has a 15 mph wind hahahahaha. And the finisher blinds seal the deal. If you find the right spot you'll be done in 15 minutes. (Thats the only down fall)hahahahhahah. Then it's time to hunt the longtails.


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## hoosier dhr (Jul 24, 2003)

when hunting over goose and mallard dekes do u honk or just quack when the mallards are coming in?


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## sneek_em41 (Aug 9, 2004)

Get a lucky duck and hide. You will shoot a limit if in the right spot.


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## Ryan_Todd (Apr 11, 2004)

i usually blow my duck call when the mallards are working the spread. but it dosen't hurt to have someone blow a few clucks in to add realism.


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## GooseBuster3 (Mar 1, 2002)

Lucky duck doesnt always work. People just dont understand now they dont work near as well as they use to 3 years ago. EVERBODY brings up 3 lucky ducks and 2 dozen bigfoots. And some of you wonder why the birds wont decoy in closer. When using a spinner you have to see how the first flock reacts to the spinner. If they flare you should be taking it down. More times then not now we have found out that a spinner does more harm then good.( Exept on opening day) Acouple hundred goose decoys work even better I think,when you are hunting an area where guys have used the spinners ALOT.


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## jbaincfl (Feb 5, 2003)

I usually blow my goose call if there are passing birds to get their attention and then go to the feeder calls. This usually happens on the evening hunt. We will set up in a field on a high hill so we can see a lot of area and then usually be able to see a spot for morning. We hunt a some what limited area and don't mind only getting a few birds on the night hunt.

If they are diving in a few little chuckles is all you need.


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## hoosier dhr (Jul 24, 2003)

Thanks guys, i agree about the spinners, kinda wish i had never got them.


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## Ryan_Todd (Apr 11, 2004)

i think they will be banned soon anyway.


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## shawn114 (Aug 22, 2003)

To save money, can a guy get away with setting water duck decoy's in a field, or do the birds flare away because it doesn't look natural? Hate to purchase a bunch of field decoy's this year if I can get away with water decoy's.


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## slough (Oct 12, 2003)

Shawn-- I've been thinking of getting some black or brown styrofoam blocks and cutting a notch in them to set the keel in so that the decoys would sit up straight in a field. Not sure where I can find the styrofoam or how much it would cost, but I think it would work well, or at least in my mind it does!!


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## GooseBuster3 (Mar 1, 2002)

By some heavy gauge wire bend it around the keel and stick the other end into the ground.


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## shawn114 (Aug 22, 2003)

goosebuster, what guage wire are you talkin? I have super magnum decoy's, what kind of wire or light steel rod could I buy that would stick in the ground and hold up the weight? Good Idea but I dont know what to buy to hold them up. Slough- If you have any idea's also please fill me in. This sound's like a neat trick. Thanx for the info guy's


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## MOSSBACK (Jun 10, 2004)

If you guys want to use water decoys in the field just use dirt clumps from the field to level the decoys or dig a hole for the keel to sit in.


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## nickle ditch (Aug 26, 2002)

If the stubble is cut high, duck floaters work great in a field.


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## Ryan_Todd (Apr 11, 2004)

we have a bunch of old water keel deke that we are going to cut the keels off and add stakes to. i think they should work fine. we used to just make a spot in the ground for them to sit level in and the ducks came right in. if your hunting over a honker spread i don't think you really need duck dekes anyway.


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## deacon (Sep 12, 2003)

Using floaters, hey a dozen floaters cost a lot less and a dozen G&H field decoys. Has come one come up with method to modify floaters?

I think I may try just need to come up with a method to stake. Fleet Farm has a dozen standard mallards for $24. I guess I have a project for the week. Any suggestions/tips would be appreciated.


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## duck on a stick (Aug 31, 2004)

If you are going to buy new floaters you dont have to do anything to them at all. Throw them in your decoy bag and place them in the field. We have been using floaters in the field for a mighty long time. All you need to do is dig the keel in a little for stability. If the field is frozen use some snow or some dirt bombs to stabilize the deke.


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## zettler (Sep 7, 2002)

deacon said:


> Using floaters, hey a dozen floaters cost a lot less and a dozen G&H field decoys. Has come one come up with method to modify floaters? Any suggestions/tips would be appreciated.


I have been thinking about this for some time BUT haven't taken the time to do anything - yet.

One idea I have, is to take those screw-in, spring-like door bumpers that you place on baseboards to prevent the door knobs from impacting the walls, and then screw them into the keels. Then, take metal tubes which have an inside diameter (ID) the same (or close to) the outside diameter (OD) of the spring-like bumper, and FLATTEN one end so it will be easy to insert into the soil.

As long as the keel - or WHATEVER you screw the bumper into is strong enough to support the bumper (and stay in place) - then this can stay that way in the field and in the water! And, since it slips into the tube stake (not snake), it could potentially allow motion!

What do you all think or should I go back to drooling in a corner????


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## deacon (Sep 12, 2003)

Zettler, I think you are on the right track.

Duck on a stick, I would like to use stakes to get them off the ground a little, if hunting in stubble that has not yet been plowed I think they would be hard to see.


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## Squeeker (Apr 1, 2004)

I just recently tried the "duck on a stick" a little while ago and it worked really good. I bought some old Carrylite decoys from a garage sale and cut the keel off.

If you do have a water keel, I would be leary to dig it into the dirt, since it will get clogged up with dirt and will become muddy when you put it in water. Not a big deal if you can live with a muddy mess in your decoy bag.

I simply cut off the keels, and turned the decoy upside down and drilled a hole through the bottom and then continued on and drilled a hole out through the top. I learned from experience that this has to be done pretty accurately, since you want to have the two holes line up. Added an 12" stake (puts the decoy about 7-8" off of the ground).

I haven't tried with a durable plastic (like Flambeau), but I do not think it would work as well as the rubber-like Carrylites. The rubber hole that I drilled has a very nice friction fit with the stake, holding the stake nicely in place. I do not know if you would achieve this with a plastic decoy.

A lot cheaper than buyer Enticers/Pontoon Perimeter decoys...


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## zettler (Sep 7, 2002)

deacon said:


> Zettler, I think you are on the right track.
> 
> Duck on a stick, I would like to use stakes to get them off the ground a little, if hunting in stubble that has not yet been plowed I think they would be hard to see.


Deacon,

That is what I am getting at. The metal tube that goes over the spring door-stopper thingy should be at least 12" long - or more. That should provide enough length for the flattened end to slip into the soil and enough height to allow the decoy to "sproing" and swivel in the wind.

Plus, as the door-stopper springs are generally tapered at the end, it will be easier to place them into the tube stakes (not snakes :roll: ) in the early morning hours.

This allows you to use the same decoys on the water and in the field - as long as the place where you attach the door-stopper is sturdy enough to maintain the grip. If not, you could always beef it up, or, simply keep moving the screw-in part to another spot and fill in the old hole.

The total cost per decoy couldn't be more than $.50, as long as you buy the door-stoppers at Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, etc.

:beer:


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## GooseBuster3 (Mar 1, 2002)

If you hunt alot in fields i would just buy field deeks. Save all the BS in the morning.


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## deacon (Sep 12, 2003)

GB3, field decoys by G&H, what are they, looks to me like floaters with the bottom cut-off, price difference $90-$24=$66.

That is alot of gas money. Well really a lot of beer money! :beer:

Does G&H sell replacement stakes? I could easily cut off the bottom and cut a 1/2" square hole for the stake to make the conversion.


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## zettler (Sep 7, 2002)

deacon said:


> GB3, field decoys by G&H, what are they, looks to me like floaters with the bottom cut-off, price difference $90-$24=$66.
> 
> That is alot of gas money. Well really a lot of beer money! :beer:
> 
> Does G&H sell replacement stakes? I could easily cut off the bottom and cut a 1/2" square hole for the stake to make the conversion.


Deacon et al,

Most places I see - when I find them - sell the G&H Field Mallard decoys for closer to $100 (plus taxes and/or shipping). But what GB3 says is another suggestion, and that is take some GHG Mallard decoys, cut the bottoms off and put them on stakes. And what I would recommend for stakes are the new GHG Universal Motion Stakes. They sell for between $15 and $20 for a dozen ( http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog. ... rchResults ) and your basically guaranteed motion, reliability and the like...

Hey, for about $45 to $50, I might just try it! I already have some of the Motion Stakes/Poles that I bought at Bass Pro for $15 a dozen, I will pickup some GHG Hot Buy Mallards, and cut one just to see...

Keep them suggestions and observations coming!


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## zettler (Sep 7, 2002)

I stopped by Lowes last night and picked up a two-pack of door-spring-stoppers for $.57. Take the plastic cap off, and it all fits nicely inside a 1/2" metal tube they also had on sale - but at $3.59 for 30".

It will be awhile before I can try it out, as my decoys are locked in a warehouse right now, but this pair had a solid self-threading screw at the base that should hold nicely - or, you could just mold some epoxy around the base to ensure its snug.


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## justducky (Sep 17, 2004)

Goose buster 3 had the right idea to prop up floaters with wire to get the right height, without damaging the decoys. Get some of the heavy gauge wire sold in straight 36 in. pieces at hardware stores used to hang drop ceilings-it is stiff enough. Cut a 28 in. piece for each decoy, fold in half around a thumb forming a loop so the 2 sides are about 1 in. apart. Now bend both sides down at right angles about 6 in. from the fold so it looks like a double angle-iron. Flambeau and Carry-lites will fit the keel right into the wire loop and the 2 free ends of the wire can be stuck into the ground. You can carry the wires pre-made to the field and snap them quickly onto the floater keels. Why ruin good decoys ?


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## win4win (Sep 8, 2003)

Made from flat stock but heavy wire should work just as well. Got the idea from a display in a store holding water dekes on the wall and some fishing rod holders someone gave me. Slide the keel into the knotch and you are good to go.


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## deacon (Sep 12, 2003)

win4win & justducky

Great ideas guys, :jammin: thanks! :jammin: :thumb:


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## Labsroc01 (Mar 23, 2004)

When I am hunting mallards I field hunt them 95% of the time. 3 doz ENTICERS and 2 doz REAL MALLARD silo's do the trick everytime, along with 2 Hen robo's and 2 Carry Lite landing mallards. This spread seems to attract mallards by the thousands.


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## deacon (Sep 12, 2003)

Labs, do you include any Canadian decoys in your spread?


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## zettler (Sep 7, 2002)

win4win & justducky,

Simpler is better! I like what you came up with and it avoids having to cut-up or dill into decoys.

I picked up 2-dozen Hot Buy Mallard decoys to play with this past weekend new for $43 AND now I think that I will simply take your wire idea. In addition, this past Summer, I bought a box of Winged Mallard decoys made by Remington. There were/are six to a box, and get this, I paid only $4.79 for the whole box from Galyans! Once I saw them at home, I realized it must have been a price-mistake but these should look great when added to the others - as they are all on springs to boot!

So, I now have two-dozen keeled, six winged, two-dozen silo's, and a couple of Robo's to bring to the party - all new. And ALL of this just might fit into one decoy bag...

:beer:


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## Field Hunter (Mar 4, 2002)

Justducky,

What a great idea!!!!! I tried this last night and is works great. The magnum floaters require a little stronger wire....I used some 3/16 inch steel rod in 3' lengths (about $ .50/foot) Folded rod in half then bent the two legs at about 8-9 inches each. Did the same thing for the standard decoys but you can get away with the heavier wire clothes hangers. Decoys really look great out in the field...just elevating 6 inches makes them look like field feeders.....I can't believe no one is marketing this idea!!! I'm experimenting with 4' wire tonight to get some a little higher off the ground.


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## Guest (Sep 22, 2004)

Win4Win, that's what I have rigged up for my 3 dozen mallards, although I have 2 stakes going into the ground instead of one. That along with my F/B flameaus and goose F/B's, I should be set!!!


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