# Cabelas Alaskan guide, and tactical scopes



## neb_bo (Feb 3, 2007)

Anyone looked at them, or know anything about them? I know it says they are supposed to have quality lens coating, but it doesnt actualy say "fully multi-coated". Also in the tactical line, are the reticals in the first or second focal plane? Namely looking at the 4.5-14x52mm 30mm tube alaskan, and the 4-16 30mm tube tactical.


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## KurtR (May 3, 2008)

did not go look at them but i would bet they are sfp and i would go with some one proven who even makes them


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## neb_bo (Feb 3, 2007)

Then tell me where to find a decent 30mm mil dot ffp scope for $300.


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## huntin1 (Nov 14, 2003)

If you find one let me know.........please!

As far as I know a decent 30mm FFP scope for $300, simply does not exist.

Sorry.

huntin1


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## KurtR (May 3, 2008)

neb_bo said:


> Then tell me where to find a decent 30mm mil dot ffp scope for $300.


not going to happen if you want ffp get your check book out. The 3-9x40 super sniper from swfa will do every thing most people want or wait till the vortex pst is out but that is closer to 800 to. You are just asking for some thing that does not excist in the optics world cheap and ffp do not go hand in hand


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## neb_bo (Feb 3, 2007)

I guess ill just chalk it up as another dream for a day when i marry rich. The leupold mill dot 30mm are in the $500-600 range arent they? Actualy you can get customized reticles from them for under $800 i think. Either way, i guess my Burris Bplex will work just fine for awhile. I actualy just found a load i like thats within 2" out to 500 yds with it anyway, and thats far enough for a .223.


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## KurtR (May 3, 2008)

ffp leupy will run you about 1500


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## neb_bo (Feb 3, 2007)

So the vx2 line isnt ffp?


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## KurtR (May 3, 2008)

nope only the mark 4 and a select few at that and when you start spending that much much better options are out there. May i ask why you think you need a ffp scope? Most shooters will get by with a sfp if it is calabrated for 12x then at 6x you just divide it by 2. But first you have to make sure your reticle is corect on the power that the manufacture says by doing some tests with the scope it self. as for the vx 2 there are alot better choices out there unless you are ok with crap internals and canted reticles but for a hunting scope that will not get turrets twisted and shot inside 400 yds wont be a issue


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## neb_bo (Feb 3, 2007)

Because i dont wanna mess with it. I want it to be correct no matter what power i have it on. I know some people who used to shoot thousand yard matches alot, namely one of Bobby Hart's ex employees, who swear that luepys are the only scope they would trust to spin in. Granted its been ten years since they shot competitively. If i just got a standard reticle, i would brobably just get a click chart, but on my .223 i dont think id use it. If i do set up a long range big gun, id like to have an ffp mildot. Mostly right now, i would just like a good 30mm with a GOOD holdover reticle. I do believe you get what you pay for, but from my experience the difference between a $300 scope and an $800+ scope is pretty negligible for what i do (hunting). If you were to recommend a brand/line of 30mm scopes to spin in, what would it be?


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## KurtR (May 3, 2008)

The key thing you said about the leupys was 10 years ago. Why the 30mm tube if all you are going to do is hunt with it. 30mm will give you more internal adjustment is all and add alot on price. There are so much better reticles out there than the standard mil-dot system. And remember even if you have a ffp scope you still have to varify that it is correct The cheapest ffp scope you will get is the vortex viper pst of swfa ss at around 800 or and there is a hell of a differnece between 800 and 300 dollars scopes. I would look at just the plain vortex viper with the 30mm tube if you really want that with bdc holdover reticle but go verify on paper before you shoot any living.

If you are serious here is some reading on leupy and search around this site as there is more knowledge there than i could dream of having http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthr ... t=3&page=1


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## neb_bo (Feb 3, 2007)

Better light transmission, wider, better, edge to edge fov. There is deffinitely a big difference in a 30mm in low light. Im not a wanna-be sniper, or long shot fanatic, but i love to shoot and hunt. I like having quality gear, and not settling, however i work for a living, and my dollar is very important to me. I also hate to feel like im getting bent over for something that is twice the price of the tool that would more than get the job done for me, and it offers miniscule improvements.


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## KurtR (May 3, 2008)

If some one is telling you that a 30mm tube will get you better light transmision they are bending you over. It will give you more internal adjusment that is it, wont make it beter edge to edge or any thing that has to do with that function of the glass period. If you want more light transmision you have to look at the objective end of the scope. For what you want 30mm tubes are one of those things that will get you miniscule improvents over anything. Do some snooping on the hide if you want to learn optics that is the place.


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## huntin1 (Nov 14, 2003)

Agree with Kurt. 30mm tubes don't do squat for getting you more light. It is a combination of the objective, the quality of the glass, and the coatings that glass recieves, that enhances light transmission.

Personally, I don't worry about the FFP, SFP issue. I have a mildot reticle because that is what I'm used to. Although I can use it to range, I don't very often, that's what my Leica is for. It's a whole lot faster for me to just hit it with a laser and then dial in the come-ups I need. YMMV.

huntin1


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## neb_bo (Feb 3, 2007)

You guys are right. I had it in my head that the whole point of 30mm was that the internal tube was bigger and let in more light/wider fov, but on looking the exit pupil and fov is the same as similar 1" tubes.


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## Savage260 (Oct 21, 2007)

The exit pupil is the main thing you have to look for, from what I have read any way. You can have a 800mm objective and the same size exit pupil as a 26mm objective and get the exact same amount of "light transmission". The light all has to fit through that one little opening, and if it is the same size in every scope that is exactly the amount of light that gets to your eye no matter how good the glass, how big the lens, or how big the tube. If you take the time with your scope and loads and make a chart you won't need or use the mil-dots. Basically they are only worth while if you don't know your range to target. Even then, they are an estimation, get a good range finder, zero your scope at 100yd or what ever, then shoot at 300, 400, ect and write down your numbers when you are on target at each range. Or get a ballistics calculator. They are great!

Just a few quick ones I found 
NF 5.5-22X50 Exit pupil range 9.1mm-2.3mm
S&B 4-16X50 Exit pupil range 12.57mm-3.125.
Vortex Viper HD 5-20X50 Exit pupil range 16mm-6mm.
Leupy VXII 6-18AO Exit pupil range 6.6mm-2.2mm


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## KurtR (May 3, 2008)

vortex ebr-2 and such are great for hold overs to.


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