# Bedding traps......



## rangeman

Can someone help me with the proper procedure to bed traps. I understand they need to be solid with as little movement of the trap as possible. I seem to be concerned about getting to much dirt around the jaws and where they swivel. Do I just need to pack the dirt real firm around the (feet) of the trap. I am not sure that is the proper name for the part, but I think you know what I am talking about. Thanks!


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## M*F

I pack it solid everywhere. Around jaws, inside jaws, until just the pan is exposed. Then a light sifting completes it. The only thing I want a critter to feel moving is the trap jaws firing through the dirt.


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## rangeman

So dirt packed on top of the springs does not effect the way the trap fires?


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## smitty223

It will take alittle practice to dig your trapbed the proper depth & shape (bowlshaped). Best thing you can do is practice in the yard, garden, etc. You can use your traphammer to beat the bed down alittle if it needs "adjusted".

Main thing you're looking for is a stable trap that doesn't rock or tip. I don't like much more than 1/4" of dirt covering my trap, and by this, I mean above the pan/jaws.

To be honest, I don't "pack" the dirt much inside the jaws on my sets. Alot of trappers do, some don't. Are you using pan covers? Have you ever tried a trappers cap?

Freezing temps & moisture is the "problem child" with traps not firing. 
The longer portion of the trap frame on the bottom (where the jawtips protrude from) is called the base, the shorter portion where the pan pivots from is called the cross frame.

Smitty


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## rangeman

Smitty, I have been digging the beds about two to three inches deep and more of a level appearance, not bowl shaped as you suggest. Which makes sense because the traps have an uneven bottom because of the chain, etc. I have been wiggling the traps back and forth and sideways to firm them up, and then packing dirt mainly around the ends of the base but trying to keep dirt out of the jaw pivots. I live in an area where freezing occurs but is not as major a concern as the more northern areas. I just started using the wax paper for a pan cover. Can I cover the whole trap, jaws and all with it? I have not been because and old timer told me to keep all sticks, pine straw, leaves. etc. out of the jaw area or the animals could slip out. I have seen pics of traps covered in leaves to camo them. But the wax paper seems pretty fragile and tears easily especially when damp. If I could cover the whole trap area with the wax paper I could use less dirt to cover it up. Could wax paper or a leaf keep a trap from making a good catch? My sets look obvious because the rest of the ground is covered with debris, leaves, etc. and my trap area is clean sifted peat an a few buckwheat hulls. I had two traps stolen this week and I am not a happy camper. One was a brand new Bridger #3. I guess thats part of it........ I have seen the trappers caps in the catalog's, but have no idea where to put them. I am new to this forum, and inexperienced to boot. I would like to thank all the members for their friendly and to the point responses. Thanks!!!!!!!


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## smitty223

The "bowl" shape will help in supporting the jaws & stabalize the traps better. You want your trap as solid as pissible with no tipping/rocking. It takes some practice, but you'll get the hang of it quickly. Most all my traps are baseplated, so once I get my trapbed "close", I put a "dimple" in the center of the trapbed for my D-ring & 1st swivel to recess into.

Be sure that you wad your wax paper up several times to get the "crinkle" out of it. If not, an animal can hear it when he steps on it. Some trappers will line the trapbed with wax paper, and also use it for a covering. I've even read some placing the entire trap into a sandwhich bag (or larger, depending on trap size) to help with freezproofing a set. I haven't used either method, as I use peat & calcium chloride in freezing weather. I do however use waxpaper & coffee filters as pan covers.

The main trouble debris (sticks, rocks, frozen clods, etc) will cause are when they are allowed to become lodged in the areas near the jawtips. This can remove some of the spring pressure from the jaws, and allow your catch to secape. This is why you need a dirt-sifter, to remove the debris & larger rocke & dirtclods from your set.

You can "blend" your sets, so they are basically invisible, this is done by running the surrounding scrapings through your sifter & over your dirt pattern. I carry a cutting board & old kitchen knife to chop-up grass. I've never used hulls, but would think you'd still want a thin (1/4") layer of dry dirt over them to keep them from blowing around on a windy day.

A Trappers Cap is merely a tool which is placed over the pan of a "set" trap, once it's placed in the trapbed. It covers the pan, and is notched to clear the dog. It allows you to pack dirt inbetween the jaws, without worrying about hitting the pan & firing the trap. This lwaves a "hollow" spot in the dirt, directly under the pan, once the cap is removed, so no pan cover is needed.

ANYTIME you have traps stolden, or tampered with in any way, call the CO (just be sure it was theft or tampering, and not poor staking or an animal pull-out") and report it. Also, since you stated you're new to trapping, PLEASE be sure you're familiar with your trapping regulations, and I always suggest someone just getting-into trapping to attend a Trappers Education Class, and join your State Trapping Association :beer:

Smitty


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