# Sighting in for Broadheads & Fields...HELP



## AdamFisk (Jan 30, 2005)

Guys, I did the stupid thing and put a new sight and rest on my bow about a month before hunting season. I put a Trophy Taker Pronghorn on for a rest, and the Toxonics 5 pin for a sight. I need to get this thing dialed in with brodheads. But I would also like to do it right and get it so my fields and broadheads hit exactly the same.

My question is, what is the best way to sight in a new setup so the fields and broadheads hit exact? At this point would you even screw around with fieldpoints, or just sight it in for broadheads and call her good until after season? Normally, wouldn't a guy get the bow sighted in for fields and then move the REST according to how the broadheads are hitting? If my broadhead is hitting lower than the field, then I should move the rest up? The same goes for left and right, correct? Always follow the field point. That is the way I understand it anyways. Will that screw up the timing at all with that drop away on there? Anybody do it different?

Thanks
Adam


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## bowtechin (Apr 8, 2007)

On this short of notice, personally I would head straight to an archery shop and get my bow tuned and spend a good long while on a range with someone watching you shoot and helping out, since sometimes (with me anyways) I just couldn't figure it out but had someone watch me shoot and they picked the problem out right away.


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## carp_killer (Nov 24, 2006)

what type of broadheads do you shoot fixed blades or mechanicals and what brand? i just sight my bow in with the practice tip that comes with the rage broadheads i shoot so i dont dull my broadheads but they fly the same most broadheads you can just sight your bow in for a field tip of the same weight when i use to shoot muzzy 3 blades i sighted my bow in with 125 grain field tips and never shot a broadhead at anything other then deer and coyotes and they were accurate


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## AdamFisk (Jan 30, 2005)

I shoot the NAP Crossfires (fixed). From what I heard about them, I expected them to shoot a lot closer to my FP than they did. A buddy shoots the same arrows and broadheads out of a different bow and has excellent results with them. At 20 yards, I am shooting 3-4 inches low, and 1" right. They are the same weight. Now, I already recked these broadheads messing around with them the other night. So I need to get replacement blades regardless before season opens. Or would a guy be better off finding a broadhead that shoots better out of my bow?

My ultimate goal is to have a setup where my broadheads shoot EXACTLY like the FP. I think either way, buying new broadheads or sticking with the Crossfires, I am going to have to adjust my rest. I know enough to know that I shouldn't be messing with my rest. But, is that the only way????

Thanks


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## carp_killer (Nov 24, 2006)

if you need new broadheads go with something that shoots good out of your bow i highly reccomend the rages


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## bowtechin (Apr 8, 2007)

I would make sure it isn't something like your bow being out of tune before you go off and buy new broadheads. Would not make much sense to just go and buy different broadheads if that isn't where your problem lies. I'd find for sure what is going wrong first.


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## weasle414 (Dec 31, 2006)

I don't wanna trail off the subject but I've got one quick, fairly relevant question. How much does is cost (roughly) to get a bow proffesionally tuned?


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## carp_killer (Nov 24, 2006)

when i bought mine and all the goodies at cabelas they set everything up for me and helped me sight it in for free so maybe if you bought a new sight or rest they would also do it for free :huh:


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## weasle414 (Dec 31, 2006)

I'm planning on getting a new string and a half dozen arrows. Maybe that'll constitute them tuning it for me? If not for free then I'll have the money to pay for it, I just don't wantit to cost more than I payed for the whole bow...


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## huntin1 (Nov 14, 2003)

Sometimes a bow will shoot broadheads to the same POA as field points, but not always. The only way you are going to know is to go out and shoot them both. This close to the season I guess I would sight in with broadheads and worry about the field points later. I save some dull blades from my broadheads just for shooting targets.

huntin1


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## carp_killer (Nov 24, 2006)

if your going to use the same bow you used for bowfishing this year definetly put a new string on bowfishings hard on your string and entire bow i had my string break when i was at full draw the one time i used my bowfishin bow for deer hunting


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## neb_bo (Feb 3, 2007)

sounds like your out of tune to me. the local shop should let you paper tune on the range. if you dont know how to do this, they should help you out. once its tuned, sight in your field points. spin test your broadheads, and shoot them, if your bow is in tune, and your broadheads are true, they should shoot consistently, and to dang near poa of fieldpoints. people get intimidated by tuning, and sighting in, but its not a big deal. i do both hear at home now.


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## RIVER RATT (May 26, 2007)

Adam you need to paper tune your bow first like neb_bo said...Then you need to tune ( spin ) your arrows to line up with you broadheads...Go to eastonarchery.com and see if thay still have a tuneing section on the web site...I picked up a 32 page arrow tuning guide for a few bucks...Tuning is vary simple to do after you lern how...I paper tune mine all the time, so I know if I have a problem right away... And it helps you with consistant form to sum dagre...The paper doesnt lie...I found rapping paper to be the best...If you cant find the tuning guide I maybe able to make copys and send it too you or any one for the price of making the copys and postage...


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