# Update: Question about Flame Cutting on Revolver top straps



## The Norseman (Jan 8, 2005)

Hello everyone,

Say, I've been researching the topic of Flame Cutting on top straps of
revolvers (the tiny cut in the metal on the top strap, where forcing cone
and cylinder gap is).

What I can't come up with is a list or chart, rating the different powders
on their effects of Flame Cutting.

I have read that Winchester 296 (W296) and Hodgon's 110 (H110) are
the worst for Flame Cutting.

Can anybody help me find a list/chart about powder Flame Cutting.


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## cwoparson (Aug 23, 2007)

I doubt you will find a chart that will point the finger at powders. The real culprit is light bullets and high pressure with a direct link to the pressure just as the bullet base passes the cylinder gap. Excessive cylinder gap will exacerbate the problem. The 357 magnum is notorious for this when driving souped up 125 grain loads. On all steel guns it would take thousands of rounds to make a deep enough cut to compromise the frame integrity.


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## The Norseman (Jan 8, 2005)

Update to my question on Flame Cutting on a Revolver's Frame Top Strap.
Safety statement: NEVER extend/put fingers by the Cylinder Gap of a Revolver
when shooting.

Here are my thoughts on Flame Cutting Revolver Top Straps to date.

I do believe certain types of powders have something to do with Flame Cutting.
Whether it is burn rate, how hot a flame it throws, and dirty/abrasion characteristics
the powder might have.

Recently I have made an observation: there is a difference between a small Cylinder Gap
and a large Cylinder Gap causing the Flame Cutting.

Here is a recent observation that came about from the purchase of a new revolver.
As with all new Guns I purchase, they are cleaned and inspected before shot.

Well, I went to the Shooting Range on several occasions. After each session I
cleaned the Revolver.
During the last cleaning I thought I would check for any Flame Cutting.
Much to my disappointment this new expensive Revolver was starting to Flame Cut
the Top Strap.
Now I have a lot of Revolvers, and none have ever started to Flame Cut the Top Strap.

The load was one I have been using in another like revolver; an identical load for two
similar Revolvers.
The older Revolver costing 1/3 rd the price of the new revolver and shot well over
150 rounds shows no signs of Flame Cutting.

The only difference that I could measure was the Cylinder Gap. I did the measuring
with the flat type feeler gauges. Measuring the Cylinder Gap was done with the
Revolver (empty of course) cocked as if to fire and the Feeler Gauge slipped between
the Cylinder face and beginning of the Barrel.

The new Revolver's Cylinder Gap measured .002 thousandths.
The used/old Revolver's Cylinder Gap measured .008 thousandths.

Other then poor Material used for the Frame, might be the cause, which I doubt,
Flame Cutting definitely happens due the amount of Cylinder Gap. Basically the
hot pressure flame behind the bullet is so focused going though the small Gap (being
restricted) it starts to cut anything in its path.

There are all kinds of opinions on the contributing factors to Flame Cutting Revolver
Top Straps but, I won't get into those thoughts.

Thank you for putting up with my quest on causes of Flame Cutting. Thanks for reading.


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## Plainsman (Jul 30, 2003)

I have always thought that a lot of cylinder gap created more flame cutting. I know as tight as .002 isn't beneficial in a firearm that could be used in a combat/self defense mode. If not kept very clean, or with the use of dirty powders tight cylinder gaps can cause your revolver to jam up. I have most often seen .004 to .006 recommended.

I think flame cutting in a revolver is much like throat erosion in a rifle. Hot loads will do it more, and volume of powder burned is perhaps the biggest culprit.

I don't know where to find the picture, but I got an email a while back of a fellow who held his left index finger in front of the cylinder of a Smith 460. The blast between cylinder and forcing cone ripped his finger in half at the joint.


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