# Glad I reload.



## alleyyooper (Jul 6, 2007)

Went to one of those yuppie sporting goods stores yesterday to get a jar of sno seal. Seams they only handle the junk stuff now.
While there I looked at loaded ammo for rifles . 31 dollars for a box of twenty 140gr. core loc Remingtons in 7mm 08. Or what about the 257 Roberts for 49.50 a box of twenty.
Cheapest stuff I saw was some 30 06 on sale for $21.00. I know prices on stuff have went up in the last few years but that is just plain nuts.

And to top it off there are those who just shuck the emptys on the ground
Rather than picking them up and selling them.

 Al


----------



## Sasha and Abby (May 11, 2004)

I agree... I can't imagine paying that much for a box of shells
:eyeroll: :eyeroll: :eyeroll:


----------



## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

If I didn't reload and shot as much factory ammo as I have reloads this summer, I'd be broke. I like the people who just throw away their brass, then I can pick it up when I get to the range, so I can take it home and use it.


----------



## MossyMO (Feb 12, 2004)

ac700wildcat
I'm a range rat also, I actually enjoy looking for brass at the range. Wife use to think I was nuts, now she is seeing the prices for new brass.


----------



## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

I kinda feel like an idiot(probably look like one too) crawling around in the grass, scrounging for all the 9mm, 40, and 45 that someone thought was worthless. Same goes for the rifle brass that I pull out of the garbage cans. I think I've probably picked up an extra 600 or 700 handgun brass this summer, along with a couple hundred 223 and some 25-06, 300mag, 270, and 30-06. I should note that our garbage cans don't get much in them other than targets, brass, and a pop bottle here and there. If they were nasty garbage cans, I'd be staying out of them.


----------



## Savage260 (Oct 21, 2007)

ac700, is this at the north range? I am going to have to start going up there more often if that is the case! I can always use more brass. I guess I thought most of the guys up there were handloaders also. I always pick up brass I think is decent when I am at the range. Even if I don't have the same cals, I give the brass to those that have them.


----------



## ac700wildcat (Oct 30, 2006)

Yes it is up at the north one. I think most of the guys that shoot up there are reloaders, but there must be a few that don't. I picked up some 40 and 45 there last weekend along with some 25-06 and 300.


----------



## alleyyooper (Jul 6, 2007)

Before I got my home range I used to pick up brass and sell it to the local gun shop that catered to a big reloading croud. We got a nickle a piece for some of it which they turned over at a dime each.

I have several of those rubbermade 18 gallon storage tubs full of 12ga and 20 ga hulls. they hold a bunch stack easy and seal out rodents and other pest.

 Al


----------



## People (Jan 17, 2005)

I also pick up range brass but you do need to fully inspect the brass before you use it. The only time I ever leave brass is when it is at the end of life. If your primer pockets are a little loose just use fingernail polish to keep them in. Then just let them fly and do not bother picking them up. Same with cracked necks.

It is crazy that they leave new brass but if someone else can use them I say go for it. What makes me mad are the guys who will ask you if you are going to pick up your brass when you are still shooting. Humm let us think about it. I am shooting a rifle setup that looks very expensive what do you think? This guy he was shooting some very old rifle with a old scope on it. My scope base and rings cost more than the set up he is using. What ever happend to the days when you just held off untill the guy was leaving before taking the spent brass? I just asked him if I could have his 270 brass he fired. He just looked at me like I was crazy and then he finaly said "It is 25-06." So I replied no that does not sound like a good trade to me worthless brass for 308 Win brass I will pass but thank you.

Fear is not the only emotion Chuck Norris can smell. He can also detect hope, as in "I hope I don't get a roundhouse kick from Chuck Norris."


----------



## Woodser (Sep 3, 2009)

Went to our local state park range one morning and there was a sheriff's car blocking the entrance. Deputy said the local FBI firearms team was in there qualifying on the M16. They would be done in about 1/2 hour, come back then. I went for coffee and a donut and came back, there were 400+ empty R-P .223 cases lying around, which I scarfed up with glee. Will never have to buy 223 cases again. :beer:


----------



## dakotashooter2 (Oct 31, 2003)

You might note that much of the commercial ammo available is now the "high performance" stuff. Stuff that the average shooter DOES NOT NEED for 99% of his shooting/hunting. If your'e just shooting deer at 150 yards and under winchester white box, federal gray/blue box and remington power points will kill them as dead as the expensive stuff will. In some cases faster.


----------



## SaberX01 (Sep 25, 2009)

I just bought another 44 lever gun yesterday ( finding a 44 Mag Marlin / Winchester was not easy, Nobody had them in stock, and distributors were all 0's as well), and have been working up a few loads for sorting out a couple cougars we have roaming around the area.

Just for kicks, I thought I'd price out the cost per round, and I was shocked. I priced things at 1000 per component, and power in 1lb canisters. If I go to 8lb keg's I'm sure I could reduce this further.

Statline Brass: 0.15 ea
WLP Primers: 0.03 ea
Power AA #7 17.4 gr: 0.05 per load
Nosler 200gr JHP: 0.15 ea

Total = A Whoping $0.38 Per Round.

I looked around the web, I'm sure there are better deals to be found, but the "average" cost was $18.00 to $22.00 dollars per box of 20 rounds for the 200gr and up loads.

On average I'm saving 58% to 60% per round by hand loading just these particular loads, not to mention all my magnum rifle loads and other lever / pistol rounds.

At that rate, if I were to go out and buy a complete reloading kit today from scratch, sighting in, doing a bit of practice / plinking, and hunting with it this winter, It will have paid for itself in one season. That's a pretty good ROI if you ask me.

For me, hand loading is the only way to go. It's enjoyable, educational and gratifying to know you've matched the round as best you can to a particular weapon.


----------



## alleyyooper (Jul 6, 2007)

You could save even more if you bought bullets from a different company. Noslers area bout the highest priced of all lead bullet companys. I found Speers, Serrias and Hornaday work just as well in all the calibers I own for all the North America game I hunt.

 Al


----------



## Plainsman (Jul 30, 2003)

SaberX01, I have a Marlin Cowboy action with a long octagon barrel and really like that rifle. 
Some of you fellows sound like you should be casting your own bullets. I gave my oldest son some of my old equipment and just purchased new for myself. I like my 300 gr Saeco mould for my 45/70, but the 240 gr Lyman is a little long in the nose and I only get nine rounds in my Marlin. It also doesn't lever as smoothly as a bullet that seats a little deaper. I think I will look for another mould. However, back to the point. If I add tin to my alloy it cost me about $6 to $7 to cast 100 bullets. If I cast pure wheel weight it cost me about $3 for 100 bullets. 
The large calibers are very easy to cast for and are very efficient hunting bullets also. I like the round nose with flat point bullets. They lever nice, and the flat point has good energy transfer when it strikes an animal. Some of you may want to consider getting into casting. It will cost you about $300 for a good set up with one mould, but if you like to shoot a lot it doesn't take long to even the score on that expense.


----------



## SaberX01 (Sep 25, 2009)

*alleyyooper* - Very true. I'm not stuck on Nosler, it jsut happened to be the book I picked up and was flipping through to see what's they had. The only gun I have that I'm exclusive to Nosler with is my 300 RUM. Its a custom gun from end to end, and the dies have been macted to the action & barrel against a specific load, 200gr AccuBond and it's a seriously accurate setup. Other than that, if I can hit a 4" to 5" freehand group out to 250-300 yards, i call it good.

*Plainsman* - Very good point. There were / are allot big bore Cowyboy Actions & Henrys on the shelves, but that was more rifle than I was looking for, but they sure are nice rifles.

I had Marlin 41 mag many moons ago, all I ever shot through it was 100% lead wad-cutters. I bought them in bulk, so never really contemplated casting, although I remember my dad ordering supplies from Herders catalog every fall for all sorts of reloading and ice fishing gear, as we made our own ice finshing tackle also. A few double bladed spinners, descent solder, quality paint + descent hooks and you've got a better setup than you can buy in the stores, for a whole lot less money.

We reloaded all the Duck loads for crews we built & shared duck blinds with, man that was always allot of fun in Spetember, Duck Blind Draws, then headding out on the river to start building.

I would have asked where to you got your lead from if you hadn't of said wheel weights, that's a good Idea. The tire shops around here are plenty busy fixing and replacing tires (rural MT is definately hard on tires), so I'm sure there's a descent supply of weights available, if they aren't already spoken for.

Smelters is something I know little about though. Where's a good place to go have a read on those critters? What would you suggest starting out with?

I see you post in the yote Forums as well. We have pleanty of them running around here, so may have a crack at a few this winter when things cool down and the pelts are prime.


----------



## Plainsman (Jul 30, 2003)

Electric lead pots are simple and you don't need expensive. From Midsouth shooters supply, Nachez shooters supply, or Midwayusa you can pick up a 20 lb Lee pot for $55 or less. Spend at least $30 on a good lead pot temp gauge. It's best to run your lead at about 700 degrees. Make sure you get a bottom pour pot because you can cast twice as fast.

Moulds need to be hot to keep from getting wrinkles in the bullet. I simply cast and remelt my first 10 to 15 bullets. Once you get going you may have to let the moulds cool every 30 or 50 bullets. You can tell because they start to drop out with a frosted look.

The only thing you need to be careful of is do this in a well vented area. I use a bathroom vent fan set about six inches from the lead pot and have the 4 inch vent pipe set into a piece of plywood that I put in the shop window. Open the window and close on the plywood. Start the fan then you lead pot.

The second thing is don't sneeze towards the melted lead, drink any liquids close to the melted lead or let any liquid get close to the lead. One drop of water can turn a full led pot into a 20 lb fountain of molten lead that will cover a 30 ft circle. Hot 700 degree bomb is what it turns into.

Sound dangerous, but it isn't given just a little thought.


----------



## alleyyooper (Jul 6, 2007)

Casting requires the sme attention as reloading. No distractions and follow all the safety rules.

Lyman's 47 edition I thik it is has recipes for loading cast bullets in lots of calibers still present today. LOL also some long gone forever.

 Al


----------



## SaberX01 (Sep 25, 2009)

Casting bullets looks interesting, from the cast, to lube and sizing. Watched several vid's today, some were really basic set-ups, others were rather extensive. Even down to how they make their own case lubes.

Going to do a bit of cost analysis and see where that puts things, aside form playing around with making bullets, which looks rather fun actually, I think with a modest investment, this could be a real cost saving. I dont think I'd want to do this for high accuracy rounds, but for general use plinking and hunting bullets, could prove to be the right choice.

Thanks for the info !!


----------

