# Connibears



## coyote_buster (Mar 11, 2007)

I'm considering all my options for traps and locations for this winter and then I noticed I could get a #160 connibear for the same price as a 1.5 foothold and I am thinking it might be more convenient for me to use one of those with school and gas prices and was wondering how long of a stake I would want for one since the animal in the trap isn't alive? What are some different things that are important to use with connibears? How much would it ussually cost? I can just use the live traps in the back ten acres so it will only take me a few minutes in the morning to dispatch anything. I'm just trying to wiegh my decisions here. P.S. No water trapping around here for me.


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

If I'm using stabilizers I just slip the ring onto a leg of the stabilizer before sinking it into the ground (but I use #220s). You can also wire them to something nearby.

I replace the chains with cable & use a snare swivel on the end. A swivel isn't really required, but doesn't hurt either, plus they can be held with a rebar stake.

Not sure what you're talking about using live traps in the "back", but you need to keep domestics in mind when setting bodygrips (you can always release something from a #1.5), and be sure you're legal to set #160's on land. Simple solition, when in doubt, don't set them.

You didn't mention what you're trapping, but with #160s & "no water", I'm guessing ****. Id be sure to anchor my traps good.

lol. do you get better mileage when checking bodygrips as opposed to footholds? 

Smitty


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## coyote_buster (Mar 11, 2007)

I will save gas because I don't have to check a bodygrip every day just every two days, also I won't have to go out in a blizzard like I would with a foothold or if I am busy. I can check them after school other than before which I would legally have to with foothold. I will be trapping far from domestics. I will be trapping ***** possums and skunks maybe. The only connibears that can't be set on land are ones with more than a ten inch jaw spread and I do believe a 160 is about 6 inch. By out back I meant the 2-3 acres of trees around the farm where a blizzard won't bother me because I won't have to drive. Then it will just take me a few minutes to walk out there before school and dispatch anything and do the rest after. I was thinking a connibear might be more convenient since I don't have to bait it or bed it and the ground freezing wont affect it as much as a foothold unless if I am wrong.


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

Sounds like you've given it all a good amount of thought. I was never one who think I could go more than a day without checking traps though......lol, I'd be too anxious to see if I had something in them 

Smitty


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## spank (Feb 4, 2007)

how you goana use a 160 for **** possum skunk kinda small but it will work i geuse


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## coyote_buster (Mar 11, 2007)

Actually I was going to check them most days incase of coyotes anyways. But it was that if I was busy or weather was bad it wouldn't be as big of deal if they didnt get checked, but last night I read the regs some more and it is only underwater connis that can be every other day so I guess all that about saving gas and such wouldn't matter anymore. Though I wouldn't have to bait them if I put them in trails. I wouldn't have to bed them which is a plus since so far all my longsprings have been dug up in the sweetcorn patch. Ohh, but I did catch my very first skunk in the sweetcorn ever. It was about 4 lbs. Must be a yungin.


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

Spank- 160 sized bodygrips are fine for the furbearers coyote_buster mentioned. Using a smaller-sized trap (than say a #220) is a good initial step in avoiding free-roaming domestics.

CB- Good thing you checkes those regs before season :wink:

If your traps are being dug-up, odds are you aren't getting them bedded solidly & they're "rocking" in the trapbed. Now's a good time to be practicing bedding a solid trap :beer:

Smitty


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## coyote_buster (Mar 11, 2007)

Is the trigger of the trap supposed to be above the ground? http://www.minntrapprod.com/catalog/pro ... ts_id=1038 Are these the h-stabalizers you were talking about? Is there anything else I would need for trapping in a trail with a conni?


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

The entire trap is above ground. If you're that unfamiliar with the use of bodygrips, I'd suggest not using them without some instruction from a Trappers Ed class, or an experienced trapper in your area that can instruct you in the proper way to use them, and especially in areas not to use a kill-type trap.

Yes, those are the stabilizers, and the only other thing needed is to tread the traps. Some dye, some dip, and some paint.

Smitty


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## coyote_buster (Mar 11, 2007)

coyote_buster said:


> Is the trigger of the trap supposed to be above the ground?


Sorry. I should have been more informative on this question. That was about bedding a foothold.


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## smitty223 (Mar 31, 2006)

You need the entire trap covered with 1/4-1/2" of sifted dirt, after it's properly bedded. Again, you need to attend your state convention & trappers education class before this season.

If you don't want to, but attempt trapping, I'm afraid you'll be sadly disapointed with your results. Do yourself a favor & get some (free) instruction on making sets.

Smitty


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